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racing seat install, airbag problem.

Old Apr 26, 2008 | 10:06 AM
  #51  
expo1's Avatar
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From: Manchester, NJ
Originally Posted by Senna
Expo, what was your solution to the airbag idiot light when you installed your Bride racing seat?
Someone else here has the Bride,not I. I have a Kirkey seat and I didn't rig the airbag light.
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 01:18 PM
  #52  
Senna's Avatar
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From: Clovis, California
Originally Posted by expo1
Someone else here has the Bride,not I. I have a Kirkey seat and I didn't rig the airbag light.
Ah,so you have the airbag warning light on? Any problems passing smog?
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 01:23 PM
  #53  
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From: Manchester, NJ
Originally Posted by Senna
Ah,so you have the airbag warning light on? Any problems passing smog?
I only swap seats for track trips. OEM goes back after.
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 06:40 AM
  #54  
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From: Sydney, Australia
Originally Posted by Senna
Ah,so you have the airbag warning light on? Any problems passing smog?
Cant understand how an Air bag warning light would change emissions.....

As for the resistor treatment. An Air bag explosive device should have an internal resistance of around 1.5-OHM to 3.0-OHM according to various Mazda Air bags I have measured over the years. (I.E the size of the charge)

So a resistor in that range should suffice but the key to this the power rating. Personally, I would never use anything lower than a 1-Watt as a matter of long term reliability.

REgards
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 11:48 AM
  #55  
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From: Canada, TO
The airbag light, don't worry about it. My mechanic told me forget the resistor, is safer that you leave it not to put the 2 ohms on it and worry if somehow the airbag deploy suddenly when u drive it on a highway.

For the seat belt, it is a problem that you can't detach it from the OEM leather seat. Basically, the wires are all connected. If you really need to detach it you have to cut the wires.

expo1, you are using the 4 pt seat belt when you go to track and what is your thought?
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 01:00 PM
  #56  
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From: Cali
Good thread. Thanks for sharing.
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 01:02 PM
  #57  
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From: Manchester, NJ
Originally Posted by R888
The airbag light, don't worry about it. My mechanic told me forget the resistor, is safer that you leave it not to put the 2 ohms on it and worry if somehow the airbag deploy suddenly when u drive it on a highway.

For the seat belt, it is a problem that you can't detach it from the OEM leather seat. Basically, the wires are all connected. If you really need to detach it you have to cut the wires.

expo1, you are using the 4 pt seat belt when you go to track and what is your thought?
I was using the OEM 3-point. The seat bracket I use has a mount point for the OEM buckle. But I will be going to a 5-point. Tech at the club I am with has been telling me race seats should also have race belts. In order to do that correctly I should have a roll bar which I ordered a week ago, should be here in June.
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 06:41 PM
  #58  
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From: Melbourne, Australia
I thought of the issue of mounting the harness in as well. I will go for roll cage, instead of the roll bar. The downside is it will be a track only car. So I will have to get a mini car (like a Mazda 2/Demio) before I put the roll cage in.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 01:29 AM
  #59  
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From: Clovis, California
Originally Posted by DMRH
Cant understand how an Air bag warning light would change emissions.....

As for the resistor treatment. An Air bag explosive device should have an internal resistance of around 1.5-OHM to 3.0-OHM according to various Mazda Air bags I have measured over the years. (I.E the size of the charge)

So a resistor in that range should suffice but the key to this the power rating. Personally, I would never use anything lower than a 1-Watt as a matter of long term reliability.

REgards
Yeah, that does read funny-airbag warning light=emissions failure. Unfortunately, when you smog your vehicle out here in Cali they nail you for much more than just failing the sniff test.
In fact they added a couple more things this year. I had to take my FD to a second "friendly" smog station because of my down pipe and something related to my fuel tank that the first tech couldn't find and flunked me. Freakin' rediculous if you ask me.

Thanks for the resistor power rating recommendation.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 01:39 AM
  #60  
Senna's Avatar
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From: Clovis, California
Originally Posted by expo1
I was using the OEM 3-point. The seat bracket I use has a mount point for the OEM buckle. But I will be going to a 5-point. Tech at the club I am with has been telling me race seats should also have race belts. In order to do that correctly I should have a roll bar which I ordered a week ago, should be here in June.
I like that roll bar. Why such a long wait? Is it a DIY or are you going to hand it off and how many LBS will it add? I've been considering a cage myself?

Now I just need to decide on a seat.

Takahashi, why would a roll cage make it a track car only? Can you imagine the sight drivin' down the highway with full roll cage, seat and 5 point harness.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 02:52 AM
  #61  
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From: Melbourne, Australia
Track car because the Cusco rollcage I am looking at block the entrance of the rear seat passenger. So it will mean a very unusable car.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 07:12 PM
  #62  
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how do I connect the seal belt bucket back to my racing seat??

It doesn't make any sense for me to cut the wires and get the bucket out and attached to my racing seat.

Help is appreciated.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 07:35 PM
  #63  
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you don't need to cut any wire to take the seat belt bucket out. on cloth seat, it is even easier, just unplug it from the seat. for power leather seat, you can still unplug the harness from the seat but you will have to tap at least 2 wires back to the harness on the car for the seat belts light.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 07:51 PM
  #64  
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From: Canada, TO
Thanks for the info, I do have the leather seat and the seat belt bucket was attached with many wires linked with the other connector....

ANy pic will be greatly appreciated, please and thanks.
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