is it okay to top up with the castrol 5w 30 with the mazda rotary oil....
mr hymee once said... any oil is better than no oil....

 

And they don't budge either!!!

 

Hmmm, I wonder why they do that?
I guess if I'm buying a new one from them it'd have Mazda Rotary Oil in it when I pick it up?

Centenary are actually more convenient for me to go to for servicing ... hmmm.

 

I've done this once or twice when no rotary oil was to be had so I'd be interested in the answer too.

Frankly, I'd be amazed if it would do any damage.

 

Yeah, 1st "rule": any oil is better than no oil;
2nd "rule": keep viscosity as consistent as possible;
3rd "rule": if possible, mix mineral with mineral; synth with synth;
4th "rule": if you end up with a real mismatch in an emergency, remember to do a full change inc filter as soon as you can

 

Why you mad about that? You get your car serviced by a factory trained and authorised dealer, and they service it to the factory specifications, so if this is a problem down the track, what have you got to worry about?

Actually, in the early days once they put the MRO in. But I will say it again... it is specifically for pre-renesis rotary engines.

Cheers,
Hymee.

 

I asked for MRO; there was a lot of head nodding at their, but at the end of the day they stuck in the other oil - I didn't like it because my spare oil was MRO, I don't like mixing oils, the manual says mineral oil and I like my instructions to be followed...

They do it for SCO, who I can accept is much better looking than me, then why can't they do it for me??

Anyway, the damage is done - my engine is now forever cursed with Synthetic...

BTW I have the flu, which is being bombed with wonder drugs so that I can make the trip to Sydney this weeked - my mood is not good!!

 

I can't recall that. I'll need to read it again

Cheers,
Hymee.

 

I love these oil discussions Crikey, didn't Castrol get it just right with their "oils ain't oils, Sol" campaign

In the early days (ie, late 03 thru mid 04), there was no MRO so my car has had whatever the dealer had.....

 

I started with Castrol...that is all they had back then. So, I will stay with the same. It is also easy to pick up top up in this formulation at any outlet.

skc

 

I sooo confused now....I went to a local dealer...they looked at me strange when I said I wanted Mazda Rotary Oil....they only use Castrol Magnatec They could sell me some if I had my own container...walked away feeling that they were dodgy as...then we went to the local rotary workshop...hot mazdas there!! They said they liked the mineral oil till the engine is run in and then after that they love AMSOIL?? This is an oil made by AMWAY apparently... War department says "steer clear of REDLINE specially in competition engines"...he no like it at all and he would know. So I ended up asking the Rotary guys to get the RO for me...so tomorrow I will find out how much $$ they want...better not be more expensive than the pair of shoes I have my eyes on!! So what is the go? If I use the less spensive synthetic oil when should I make the switch? Car is only 4,000kms old now..have to top up the oil with a smidge....

 

The way I see it, a good synthetic should cost more than a mineral oil.

When the table is turned, the feng shui is all up the pooper.....

Buy your favourite synthetic.

 

Ahh well, don't feel alone there. I quickly discovered oil is a particular religious issue around rotaries...as it is around engines in general. As Gomez says, just decid on a quality synthetic since it seems easier to obtain, and stick with it. Just get the grade right.

Only thing I'll say about AMSOIL is that it's just another Amway product propping up the pyramid <ducks>

 

I noted that at my last service (50k), Grand Prix Mazda are still using Castrol TXT synthetic. If you go to the Castrol website, you'll notice that there is a range of synthetics with different names, with seeming overlap with regard to application and properties, e.g.:

Castrol TXT Softec LL01 5W-30
Specially formulated to meet the latest requirements for modern engines using low viscosity oils with extended oil change intervals. BMW apporved technology for modern vehicles.

Castrol EDGE Sport 5W-30
Recommended for highly tuned four cylinder engines and the latest technology vehicles.This full synthetic product provides superb strength and ultimate protection even when running hard, fast or hot.


It seems that the "Edge" type has superseded the "Formula R" synthetic which I have been using between changes.

As I've said previously, it appears that the objection by Mazda to the use of synthetics referred to RX7 motors, where the rubber seal formulation was unable to withstand the new oils. Since then, seal technology has advanced and those newer seal rubbers are used in the Renesis motor.

It would not surprise me if the Mazda Rotary Oil was just re-packaged Magnatec, which is a very good oil, but not as good as the full synthetics. Use it by all means, but consider changing it every 4 - 5k. The mineral oils tend to break down faster than the synthetics, meaning they lose their protective lubricating properties faster (particularly with hot-running motors). You can get an idea of this from the "soot" levels. "Soot" is a term used in the oil industry to denote the darkening of an oil as it ages. You can do an experiment on this by using a paper towel to clean the engine dipstick when you do you regular oil level checks, keeping the scraps of paper to compare the colour. Having run Magnatec in my previous ride (and changing it every 5000km), I can tell you that the synthetics are much. much better in this regard.

It doesn't surprise me that rotary tuners recommend mineral oils during running in - they don't offer the same protection, so the new metal wears and beds in faster. I'm sticking to synthetics - as Hymee says, if your Mazda dealer puts it in your car, you know you're covered.

 

Imagine having to explain this little collection to the wife who already suspects you're just a teeny bit obsessed with your car.

 

Pity my wife. Imagine being married to a scientist for nigh on 40 years. Explain to your wife you could be collecting all sorts of other things. Leave it to her imagination.

 

Not to mention having to explain this to yourself!!!

I can see now that I should make the change....what do you guys consider a "run in" engine?? Should I make the change at 5,000kms??

Thanks a million for your help with this....it's a technical car when it comes down to it really!!!

 

Forget your wife - I want you to meet mine! You make me look good.

Maybe you should hire yourself out to social gatherings as a litmus test for comparison purposes.

Okay, I'll stop now. Just kidding around.

 

I'll defer to the tech heads but I don't see why you couldn't switch over at 5K.

From my own experience and what I've read, seems to take 10K to really run this engine in (e.g. that's when oil use starts to decline).

 

They'll budge... I have always insisted on the rotary oil and always got a 5L container in the boot with a bit left.

 

My missus agrees and she's never met you ;-)