Camber and toe settings
Camber and toe settings
As the nats comes near. I went to get my car wheel aligned.
I went to Stuckey race tyre service for a professional help.
After talking to them about my car (with the old setting) and my feeling of the latest track day.
My concern were:
Too much wear on the outside.
Too much understeer in fast corners and some understeer on braking.
I still want to drive the setting on the road.
My setting already -1 degree chamber and dead right L&R, F&R... so he suggest a little bit more -ve camber, and end up have -1.3.
He set near zero toe in the front and reduced the massive toe in at the rear (I think the toe was out after the last track day)...
The result:
I think the steering is heavier, more sensitive and not yet turning hard enough to see how it reacts, can't wait putting on the track.
Does anyone can share their experience?
I went to Stuckey race tyre service for a professional help.
After talking to them about my car (with the old setting) and my feeling of the latest track day.
My concern were:
Too much wear on the outside.
Too much understeer in fast corners and some understeer on braking.
I still want to drive the setting on the road.
My setting already -1 degree chamber and dead right L&R, F&R... so he suggest a little bit more -ve camber, and end up have -1.3.
He set near zero toe in the front and reduced the massive toe in at the rear (I think the toe was out after the last track day)...
The result:
I think the steering is heavier, more sensitive and not yet turning hard enough to see how it reacts, can't wait putting on the track.
Does anyone can share their experience?
Last edited by takahashi; Oct 11, 2005 at 12:59 AM.
I found this article... very interesting and informative
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html
It certainly helps a little....
I was told that in term of tracking, toe in in the front will makes the wheel goes "under" when doing an opposite turn in. Does it make sense? So front toe in will reduce the negative chamber effect of the front wheels. Zero toe will be the best.
The con of the front zero toe that a slightly out alignment will cause "wondering" or straight line instability. It certainly has been talked about in the article above. And race car does not mind straight line instability
.
I was told that in term of tracking, toe in in the front will makes the wheel goes "under" when doing an opposite turn in. Does it make sense? So front toe in will reduce the negative chamber effect of the front wheels. Zero toe will be the best.
The con of the front zero toe that a slightly out alignment will cause "wondering" or straight line instability. It certainly has been talked about in the article above. And race car does not mind straight line instability
.
Originally Posted by et381
Cool Taka, do you know what is the specification of the 8 from the factory?
Front: From -0.45 to +0.26
Rear: From -1.4 to -0.4
They have 1-3 inch toe in front and 2-4 inch back.
I already set of -1 chamber when I have my new Enkei's and had I had a look on Saturday and the guy said said the inner shoulder is still ok for -1 chamber and can take more without ill effect on wear in normal driving. I am using Michellin PS2 as the road tyre and on 38 psi.
Toe should be set at zero front and rear.Front negative camber as much as you can get-usually only -1 1/4 to -1 1/2.no problem for road use.
Rear about the same.
This set up works well on and off track,with no ill effects re tyre wear.
Have your alignment checker prior to the Nats-it doesn't cost much and can make a huge difference to your handling.You'd be suprised how far out it can be straight from the factory.
Rear about the same.
This set up works well on and off track,with no ill effects re tyre wear.
Have your alignment checker prior to the Nats-it doesn't cost much and can make a huge difference to your handling.You'd be suprised how far out it can be straight from the factory.
Originally Posted by xxup
Excellent site Taka.... My car has been pulling left for a long while now.... Caster... +ve is needed perhaps a lttle more on the left that the right I think...
Not taking the **** - serious query.
Originally Posted by ILIV48
I just did the same last weekend. Had more negative Camber added and Toe taken out.

I found the DSC engaging quicker to understeer in the Mt Dandenong today, but yet I am in a higher speed.
Love the set up, I think I can have less toe in for the rear. I better have a couple of track day to test the set up first :D
I plan on getting wheel alignment done tomorrow. I assume they will reset according to the factory settings.
So, if I ask for more negative camber and have the toe taken out. Then what figures should I quote.
BTW, I am also installing whiteline sway bars...how does this effect the settings that I ask for. Thanks for your help guys.
skc
So, if I ask for more negative camber and have the toe taken out. Then what figures should I quote.
BTW, I am also installing whiteline sway bars...how does this effect the settings that I ask for. Thanks for your help guys.
skc
Originally Posted by Revolver
Not just following road camber is it xxup? Not taking the **** - serious query.
Originally Posted by skc
I plan on getting wheel alignment done tomorrow. I assume they will reset according to the factory settings.
So, if I ask for more negative camber and have the toe taken out. Then what figures should I quote.
BTW, I am also installing whiteline sway bars...how does this effect the settings that I ask for. Thanks for your help guys.
skc
So, if I ask for more negative camber and have the toe taken out. Then what figures should I quote.
BTW, I am also installing whiteline sway bars...how does this effect the settings that I ask for. Thanks for your help guys.
skc
The endlink seperates the toe, chamber, caster setting from the sway bar.
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