Autoexe Adjustable Endlink
I'm about to pull the trigger on these, but I still don't understand the bottom two in the pic?? I don't think you explained why they are shaped that way. It doesn't look anything like stock. Please explain.
the rear links are too short to have an adjustable center tube like the front link. Instead the threaded stud endlink that screws into the adjustable center tube as shown in the upper links in the picture screw directly into the endlink body shown in the lower pic. You'll have to unbolt one end from the bar or suspension in order to make the rear adjustment.
However, my STU car was seriously cornerweighted etc. and we never found the need for adjustable endlinks. With both endlink ends loosened there was always enough hole slop between the two end mounts to install and tighten the endlinks in an unloaded position following the coilover cornerweight procedure. With a three endlink hole adjustable front bar we would install them initially in the centerhole and found that they'd transfer to the other holes without loading as well. The only issue may be if you want to use different adjustment holes on one bar end rather than the other. This is especially true with most rear adjustable bars. So it mostly boils down to your intended need/use.
However, my STU car was seriously cornerweighted etc. and we never found the need for adjustable endlinks. With both endlink ends loosened there was always enough hole slop between the two end mounts to install and tighten the endlinks in an unloaded position following the coilover cornerweight procedure. With a three endlink hole adjustable front bar we would install them initially in the centerhole and found that they'd transfer to the other holes without loading as well. The only issue may be if you want to use different adjustment holes on one bar end rather than the other. This is especially true with most rear adjustable bars. So it mostly boils down to your intended need/use.
Last edited by TeamRX8; Mar 25, 2008 at 09:07 PM.
Just want to show the difference between stock endlink and (AUTOEXE EVO-R) Endlink. Both autoexe and EVO-R ball join are polished. Where stock one is not. This gives you a faster responds in coners. Also on the plastic join clip on stock is easy to get loose. Which once car gets losts tension it will be come loose and make noise. One the other hand ours holds stronger.
Last edited by fd3s777; Mar 31, 2008 at 11:11 AM.
the rear links are too short to have an adjustable center tube like the front link. Instead the threaded stud endlink that screws into the adjustable center tube as shown in the upper links in the picture screw directly into the endlink body shown in the lower pic. You'll have to unbolt one end from the bar or suspension in order to make the rear adjustment.
The only logical conclusion that I can arrive at is that I was sent an incomplete set...I'm missing two threaded stud endlinks.
Jay, can you confirm that I should have gotten two extra pieces in addition to the pieces in the original pic on page 1? Sorta like this?
I need this resolved ASAP please!
Jay, can you confirm that I should have gotten two extra pieces in addition to the pieces in the original pic on page 1? Sorta like this?
I need this resolved ASAP please!
no...related to drop, but not one-to-one like that...honestly i think stock ride height car would still benefit from these...the whole idea is to get rid of any pre-load on the sway bars so that they are not working when they shouldn't be and start working faster when they should
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There is a table comes with the kit telling you how much the endlink should be by measuring how much lowered your front suspension is.
It is easy done. I did it myself.
No you don't need to do wheel alignment purely for this. There is nothing in the hub you have changed.
Doing it on a stock height car is purely cosmetic. The stock endlink is actually quite strong. Not the same as the pivot bushes go though. So there may be very very slight benefit.
It is easy done. I did it myself.
No you don't need to do wheel alignment purely for this. There is nothing in the hub you have changed.
Doing it on a stock height car is purely cosmetic. The stock endlink is actually quite strong. Not the same as the pivot bushes go though. So there may be very very slight benefit.
There is a table comes with the kit telling you how much the endlink should be by measuring how much lowered your front suspension is.
It is easy done. I did it myself.
No you don't need to do wheel alignment purely for this. There is nothing in the hub you have changed.
Doing it on a stock height car is purely cosmetic. The stock endlink is actually quite strong. Not the same as the pivot bushes go though. So there may be very very slight benefit.
It is easy done. I did it myself.
No you don't need to do wheel alignment purely for this. There is nothing in the hub you have changed.
Doing it on a stock height car is purely cosmetic. The stock endlink is actually quite strong. Not the same as the pivot bushes go though. So there may be very very slight benefit.
You are right that the polished spherical ball joints are supposed to allow for faster motion...there are pics in this thread comparing the two joints.
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