eManage/CanZoomer Tuning for dummies
10-24-2004, 04:57 PM
#1
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eManage/CanZoomer Tuning for dummies
I think there are lots of people out here that have NO idea how to tune the Canzoomer unit.
Can some of the tuners out there please enlighten the novies so we may learn how to tune the units too??
http://tyrannical.org/page-15
this was a great place to start but I think we need a little more background information on tuning the product.
Can some of the tuners out there please enlighten the novies so we may learn how to tune the units too??
http://tyrannical.org/page-15
this was a great place to start but I think we need a little more background information on tuning the product.
10-24-2004, 06:07 PM
#2
Far as I know, it's all pretty much trial and error. Make a run, see where your AFR's are, adjust your maps accordingly, run again and see if additional changes need to be made. Keep repeating until the AFR graph looks the way you want it to, and is smooth...
10-24-2004, 06:10 PM
#3
A/F tuning was the easy part.....the Ignition timing adjustments are much more difficult.
I wish that the knock sensor output could be logged....then it is easier to tell when it is pinging. Went back to stock yesterday to take it in to the shop. Lost a lot at 5K+....it really runs rich.....gotta get it back in tonight
I wish that the knock sensor output could be logged....then it is easier to tell when it is pinging. Went back to stock yesterday to take it in to the shop. Lost a lot at 5K+....it really runs rich.....gotta get it back in tonight
10-24-2004, 06:26 PM
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so what do you actually tune to make the graph smooth? I hear a lot of people drag on about the voltage, throttle position, etc.
what do you guys suggest on doing in the beginning? which parameter should I play around with first?
OH and one question, I have the DB9 serial port, but my computer only supports 15pins..
what did most of you do? THANKS so much
what do you guys suggest on doing in the beginning? which parameter should I play around with first?
OH and one question, I have the DB9 serial port, but my computer only supports 15pins..
what did most of you do? THANKS so much
10-24-2004, 06:26 PM
#6
I did...I dialed in advance at lower RPM's and flows to try and get some more partial throttle response. Can get power....but the PCM starts to **** around if you get too aggressive.
With good fuel...it seems to tolerate 8degrees of advance on throttle in most places...tried up to 14 in some places
With good fuel...it seems to tolerate 8degrees of advance on throttle in most places...tried up to 14 in some places
10-24-2004, 06:29 PM
#7
i use a serial to USB adapter for the CanScan....works well. It's a bit of a pain at times.....but I find unplugging it and plugging it back in works
If you don't understand what to adjust....do some research before you start pissing around. Esp with the timing. You don't want it pinging if you can help it
If you don't understand what to adjust....do some research before you start pissing around. Esp with the timing. You don't want it pinging if you can help it
Last edited by dannobre; 10-24-2004 at 06:32 PM.
10-24-2004, 06:32 PM
#8
I wouldn't worry too much about throttle position until you get a WOT map that is to your liking. Basically zero everything but 100% throttle range, and work on that. Once you have WOT done, you can go back and start adding detail to 95% throttle, 90% and so on.
Since most people aren't going to have the CZ activated below the 50% range, you can even redo the scale so you can have higher resolution on the throttle positions.
Since most people aren't going to have the CZ activated below the 50% range, you can even redo the scale so you can have higher resolution on the throttle positions.
11-28-2004, 06:08 PM
#9
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Also worth noting: you can dial in a lot more agressive ignition advance if you use colder, #8 plugs - which Canzoomer also sells. These don't work well when the weather turns cold though.
11-28-2004, 07:31 PM
#10
Took my cold plugs out...and put in the hotter stock plug for the winter. Hasn't caused any pinging in the cold weather yet. I thought thaat I would have to back down a map for the winter. The car seems to adjust well to the IAT changes....the map seems OK with the denser air
12-02-2004, 09:32 PM
#11
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thanks guys. i can get a good deal on the unit but it doesnt come w/cables, and im still going to have to buy the canscan. will the canscan cables do everything i need, or am i going to have to buy the cz cables as well?
12-02-2004, 09:49 PM
#12
kelly, the canscan has nothing to do with the cz unit, and so you will still need to get the cz wires.
also, if you're buying a used cz, keep in mind that unless the unit came from group buy #2 or later, you will likely have to ship it to canzoomer for the coil update (unless you're not worried about it burning your coils). I think that's another $60.
also, if you're buying a used cz, keep in mind that unless the unit came from group buy #2 or later, you will likely have to ship it to canzoomer for the coil update (unless you're not worried about it burning your coils). I think that's another $60.
12-02-2004, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by dannobre
If you don't understand what to adjust....do some research before you start pissing around. Esp with the timing. You don't want it pinging if you can help it
Also, I have a USB cable, does anyone have the software they'd be willing to part with?
12-03-2004, 06:31 AM
#14
the url listed in the first post of this thread is a good place to start, other than that, you basically have to read every post on the forum about cz and draw your own conclusions since it comes with no documentation.
the cz cable comes with the software, so i assume you mean you have a (generic) usb cable. If that is the case, be aware that it will not work.
the cz cable comes with the software, so i assume you mean you have a (generic) usb cable. If that is the case, be aware that it will not work.
12-11-2004, 03:01 PM
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This CANScan is awesome.. Thankx again Jason for your assistance last night... Here is the graph that was produced from my car.. My CZ unit and tuning software should arrive shortly..
Last edited by davefzr; 12-11-2004 at 06:17 PM.
12-11-2004, 03:09 PM
#16
I would suggest dropping the log points that have less than 50% or so throttle - at the end of your graph things get jumbled.
Also, if you do runs in 3rd gear instead of 2nd, you'll get a higher resolution graph with more points
btw, check the third page of the excel sheet, it has notes of random stuff i copied from this site as i did research.
Also, if you do runs in 3rd gear instead of 2nd, you'll get a higher resolution graph with more points
btw, check the third page of the excel sheet, it has notes of random stuff i copied from this site as i did research.
12-11-2004, 04:26 PM
#18
heh. I was doing my test on a 50 mph road. I went back and forth between two stopping points where i could sit on a flat surface (no brakes wanted due to the heat generated from the extreme stops) and reprogram the cz and map out the canscan data. Because I was going back and forth between just those two points, I knew there were no hidden cops, and so I didn't sweat it too much.
12-11-2004, 11:46 PM
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Hey.. can you expand on this note a bit more that I got from the excel file for calculating your AFR from the CANScan. It mentions that one will not be able to extract the exact measurements from the CANScan because the CanZoomer module will obviously alter these readings. So does this mean that you must obtain readings from the emanage (CanZoomer) and then alter the readings you get from the CANScan to obtain the final AFR ratios? Does the CanZoomer only give you the percentage of change that the tool applied so that you can add this measurement to the CANScan to come up with the final figure? Also.. when you mention emanage.. are you referring to the CanZoomer piggy back or the software itself for tuning?
Thankx a lot!
Thankx a lot!
1. Ignition Advance - the ignition advance that seems to make the most power is +30 deg. If you have a CanScan cable then you can take readings of what your currently running with. The CanScan cable can only take readings of what happens before the CZ unit makes its changes, it is impossible for it to take readings of what happens after the changes. What you CAN do is take a Real Time Log from the eManage tool and add in ignition time. This will tell you the value that the CZ unit is adding or subtracting from the value the CanScan tool is reading in. Now, having said that, during low RPMs (below 4000) the CZ unit makes it's edits from the leftmost column. If you look at that column you will see the values. Also notice the lowest voltage on the lefthand scale is 3.00. This means that if you are under 4400 rpm and below 3.00V on the MAF, the change the CZ is adding in ignition timing is the very bottom left value (should read 2 for all of you in GB #2). Now, for me, if I look at my CanScan data, my ignition timing from the ECU at low rpms is between 10.5 and 17 degrees. This is very low to make power. I did 3 things to help solve this. First - I switched to the ignition maps that shipped with Speed Racer's unit (this map covers all MAF voltages from 0.00 to 4.10 instead of 3.00 to 4.05). Second - I used the Real Time Logging to make a run in 3rd gear from 2600rpm to redline, and looked at the data. Third - I increased the ignition advance to get me closer to a total of 30 degrees (i ended up increasing it by 7 deg where it needed it). This gave me more responsive and faster revving in the low rpms.
12-12-2004, 09:15 AM
#21
btw, when tuning, don't look at the graph's output to make changes to your afr map. This was the mistake I made when tuning mine. The reason is the rpm numbers listed doesn't line up exactly all the time with the plot data, which means I ended up modifying rpm ranges that didn't need modification.
Look at your plot data for the exact rpm reading that is too low/too high.
Look at your plot data for the exact rpm reading that is too low/too high.
12-14-2004, 06:15 PM
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Does anyone know if the ignition advance circuit is disabled when the Canzoomer unit is turned off?
I have had mine for a couple months with the unit turned off. I turned it off because I think it pings. (mild pinging at part throttle between 2 & 3K). Even though it is turn off, it still sounds like it is pinging. I never really listened for pinging before I put the unit in, so the problem could be with my car.
I have had mine for a couple months with the unit turned off. I turned it off because I think it pings. (mild pinging at part throttle between 2 & 3K). Even though it is turn off, it still sounds like it is pinging. I never really listened for pinging before I put the unit in, so the problem could be with my car.
Last edited by Rotary787; 12-14-2004 at 06:17 PM. Reason: typo