DIY: SS Clutch Hose Install
09-07-2004, 05:28 PM
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DIY: SS Clutch Hose Install
Today I finally installed my SS clutch hose from Rotary Performance. Please refrain from posting until I get all of the sections posted - I will let you know when I am done. Thank you. This and draining and filling my transmission with Red Line took me a total of 2.5 hours. Could have gone faster, but I was being meticulous.
Tools needed:
Pliers
combination wrench, 8mm..................Bleed screw
combination wrench, 10mm................Clutch pipe fitting
combination wrench, (14mm)11/16.....Clutch hose fitting
DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid*
Recommended tools:
SpeedBleeder, SB7100
Bleeder hose
latex glove
1 Plastic baggie
1 Rubber band
Preface
Speedbleeder almost saved my butt. A worthwhile investment. I highly recommend the speedbleeder, and not just because of the obvious reason. If I were 10 pounds heavier
and opted to NOT use the Speedbleeder, I might've gotten into a real jam. If you DO get the Speedbleeder, install it FIRST - before you replace the clutch hose. If you
DON'T get the speedbleeder, then test-fit a wrench on your bleed screw FIRST before you replace the clutch hose. That little bugger is in the worst possible spot, and you
don't want to wait until you've put air into the system to find out you can't get to it. Also, I used syntrix's latex glove idea. That worked beautifully - not a single
drip on the firewall.
On brake fluid: I used DOT4 because of the higher boiling point and all that. I don't know, I'm not an expert, but everyone seems to recommend this. Seems logical to me.
Be careful if you see DOT5 on the shelf. The ones I've seen indicate they will dork up ABS systems, and since our brakes and clutch share a resorvoir probably a bad idea.
Although, I believe MOTUL and some of the other high-end manufacturers have ABS-safe DOT5, but it is significantly more expensive than DOT4 anyway. So, there you have it.
Tools needed:
Pliers
combination wrench, 8mm..................Bleed screw
combination wrench, 10mm................Clutch pipe fitting
combination wrench, (14mm)11/16.....Clutch hose fitting
DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid*
Recommended tools:
SpeedBleeder, SB7100
Bleeder hose
latex glove
1 Plastic baggie
1 Rubber band
Preface
Speedbleeder almost saved my butt. A worthwhile investment. I highly recommend the speedbleeder, and not just because of the obvious reason. If I were 10 pounds heavier
and opted to NOT use the Speedbleeder, I might've gotten into a real jam. If you DO get the Speedbleeder, install it FIRST - before you replace the clutch hose. If you
DON'T get the speedbleeder, then test-fit a wrench on your bleed screw FIRST before you replace the clutch hose. That little bugger is in the worst possible spot, and you
don't want to wait until you've put air into the system to find out you can't get to it. Also, I used syntrix's latex glove idea. That worked beautifully - not a single
drip on the firewall.
On brake fluid: I used DOT4 because of the higher boiling point and all that. I don't know, I'm not an expert, but everyone seems to recommend this. Seems logical to me.
Be careful if you see DOT5 on the shelf. The ones I've seen indicate they will dork up ABS systems, and since our brakes and clutch share a resorvoir probably a bad idea.
Although, I believe MOTUL and some of the other high-end manufacturers have ABS-safe DOT5, but it is significantly more expensive than DOT4 anyway. So, there you have it.
Last edited by B-Nez; 09-07-2004 at 05:58 PM.
09-07-2004, 05:31 PM
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Speedbleeder Install
1. Take 1 latex glove, and cut it into 1 sheet about 3" diameter. If the gloves are powdered, rinse thoroughly with plain water and DRY thoroughly. Open clutch fluid resorvoir, and stretch over opening. Close cap over stretched latex. This will reduce the amount of fluid lost during the procedures.
2. Raise the car, or whatever you do to get under there (I used a lift). See the photo to help locate the bleed screw. Yep, it is right behind the oil filter pedestal. Nope, you probably can't get a wrench on it from above - I know I could not. From under the car, you reach up with the 8mm wrench just forward of the crossmember. Reach way high, get the wrench on there and give about a 16th of a turn. That's about as far as you'll get before having to reset the wrench. Very tedious, but don't give up. Just keep at it. Eventually you'll get it to where you can reach up over the transmission bell housing and get a thumb and forefinger on it. It's a little bit quicker, but not much. Oh, and if you drove to your install location you will burn your wrist and forearm on the tranny. Suggest a cool car for this detail and/or some rags over the transmission.
3. Once the bleed screw comes out, try to catch it (or drop it, whatever). Now get your Speedbleeder and try to finger tighten it in there. Once it is tight, use the 8mm wrench again.
WARNING: The Speedbleeder will stick out a little farther than the OEM bleedscrew. If it feels tight, STOP. Don't try to torque it, thinking it is not all the way in. The way to check is to get out from under the car, open the door, and depress the clutch pedal. If it feels normal and comes back, then the Speedbleeder is tightened. If you over-torque it it will break and then you will really be sorry.
4. From the engine bay, drop the end of the bleeder hose down through the mess of hoses and work it unto the speedbleeder. Now you're set to install the clutch hose.
2. Raise the car, or whatever you do to get under there (I used a lift). See the photo to help locate the bleed screw. Yep, it is right behind the oil filter pedestal. Nope, you probably can't get a wrench on it from above - I know I could not. From under the car, you reach up with the 8mm wrench just forward of the crossmember. Reach way high, get the wrench on there and give about a 16th of a turn. That's about as far as you'll get before having to reset the wrench. Very tedious, but don't give up. Just keep at it. Eventually you'll get it to where you can reach up over the transmission bell housing and get a thumb and forefinger on it. It's a little bit quicker, but not much. Oh, and if you drove to your install location you will burn your wrist and forearm on the tranny. Suggest a cool car for this detail and/or some rags over the transmission.
3. Once the bleed screw comes out, try to catch it (or drop it, whatever). Now get your Speedbleeder and try to finger tighten it in there. Once it is tight, use the 8mm wrench again.
WARNING: The Speedbleeder will stick out a little farther than the OEM bleedscrew. If it feels tight, STOP. Don't try to torque it, thinking it is not all the way in. The way to check is to get out from under the car, open the door, and depress the clutch pedal. If it feels normal and comes back, then the Speedbleeder is tightened. If you over-torque it it will break and then you will really be sorry.
4. From the engine bay, drop the end of the bleeder hose down through the mess of hoses and work it unto the speedbleeder. Now you're set to install the clutch hose.
09-07-2004, 05:38 PM
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OEM Clutch Hose Removal
I decided to start with the bottom, so that most of the drainage would happen down below, rather than up near the firewall (it's painted, you know). Suggest putting a drip pan under the hose location.
1. First you must remove the retaining clip (photo 1). Use a normal pair of pliers to grab the lip and wiggle and pull. It will slide out fairly easily, exposing a hole larger than the end of the hose fitting (probably didn't need to say that, but hey there's a picture for ya (#2), too).
2. Get your 11/16 open-end wrench (I think it is 14mm, but I didn't have that. 11/16 fit perfectly) around the nutted(?) collar behind the mounting bracket, and get your 10mm around the clutch pipe fitting. Loosen all the way. Once it unscrews completely, the clutch pipe fitting can slide freely away from the clutch hose. You might as well let some fluid drain out before proceeding.
3. Push the hose fitting up out of the hole. Drop the end into a baggie and wrap with a rubber band (photo 3). I did this for neatness. Yeah, I'm OCD, what of it?
1. First you must remove the retaining clip (photo 1). Use a normal pair of pliers to grab the lip and wiggle and pull. It will slide out fairly easily, exposing a hole larger than the end of the hose fitting (probably didn't need to say that, but hey there's a picture for ya (#2), too).
2. Get your 11/16 open-end wrench (I think it is 14mm, but I didn't have that. 11/16 fit perfectly) around the nutted(?) collar behind the mounting bracket, and get your 10mm around the clutch pipe fitting. Loosen all the way. Once it unscrews completely, the clutch pipe fitting can slide freely away from the clutch hose. You might as well let some fluid drain out before proceeding.
3. Push the hose fitting up out of the hole. Drop the end into a baggie and wrap with a rubber band (photo 3). I did this for neatness. Yeah, I'm OCD, what of it?
09-07-2004, 05:41 PM
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OEM Clutch Hose Removal Pt.2
Now we work topside to remove the other end...
4. Repeat steps 1-2 (above) from under the hood (photo 1). Lower the hose fitting free of the hole, then carefully pull the entire hose up out of the engine bay.
You will notice some differences (photo 2) between the OEM hose and the SS hose (RP's, anyway). You can see that the fitting is beefier, which makes it a little easier to keep your wrench on. You'll also notice the OEM hose is pretty limp (you can't tell from the photo, but it is pretty floppy)...
4. Repeat steps 1-2 (above) from under the hood (photo 1). Lower the hose fitting free of the hole, then carefully pull the entire hose up out of the engine bay.
You will notice some differences (photo 2) between the OEM hose and the SS hose (RP's, anyway). You can see that the fitting is beefier, which makes it a little easier to keep your wrench on. You'll also notice the OEM hose is pretty limp (you can't tell from the photo, but it is pretty floppy)...
Last edited by B-Nez; 09-07-2004 at 08:00 PM. Reason: forgot to remove my image cues
09-07-2004, 05:44 PM
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SS Clutch Hose Install
1. Lower the SS hose down through the engine bay and push the fitting up through the mounting bracket. Screw the clutch pipe fitting into the clutch hose fitting. Use your wrenches to tighten them. Re-insert the retaining clip. To get it in, push up on the hose fitting and slide the yokes into the groove. Carefully tap it into place using your pliers or something. See photo 1.
2. From under the car, adjust the routing of the hose as necessary so there is no kinking. Push the hose fitting through the bracket hole and re-attach the clutch pipe. Insert the clip. This one was a bit a of a pain for me - I had to wiggle the hose fitting to expose some groovage for the yokes to get into. Tapping is more difficult, too, as there isn't as much room down here.
You're done. It should look something like photo 2.
2. From under the car, adjust the routing of the hose as necessary so there is no kinking. Push the hose fitting through the bracket hole and re-attach the clutch pipe. Insert the clip. This one was a bit a of a pain for me - I had to wiggle the hose fitting to expose some groovage for the yokes to get into. Tapping is more difficult, too, as there isn't as much room down here.
You're done. It should look something like photo 2.
Last edited by B-Nez; 09-07-2004 at 05:47 PM.
09-07-2004, 05:47 PM
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Bleeding the Clutch
1. Loosen the Speedbleeder about 1/4 turn. It really doesn't take much. Make sure your bleeder hose is aiming for something suitable.
2. Open the fuid resorvoir lid and discard the latex glove. Check to make sure no bits of torn latex fell into the resorvoir - it has a filter so it won't get too far. Fill the resorvoir to MAX.
3. From inside the car, push the clutch pedal to the floor. It should push easy and stay down by itself. If you feel pressure and it returns, you need to loosen the bleeder a bit more.
4. Pump the pedal 25 times at a normal rate of speed. If using your hand, You should be able to look down and see the fluid spurting out of the bleeder hose. After 25 pumps, the resorvoir will be at MIN. Top it off to MAX.
5. Repeat step 4 as many times as you desire, making sure that: a)you get a solid flow of fluid through the bleeder hose; and b)the fluid doesn't look filthy. If the fluid in the bleeder hose has gaps, that is air from the system. Keep bleeding until there is no more air.
6. Tighten the bleeder screw, remove the bleeder hose, and snap on the dust-cap. It's easier to do the dust cap from the engine bay. Now that the Speedbleeder sticks out farther, it is more easily accessed than the OEM screw was. You can see what I mean in photo 1.
7. Pump the clutch pedal. It should have normal pressure and return smartly.
8. Clean up and make a sandwich - you're done. It's a good idea to do a brake check before driving anywhere. If you used the latex glove, there should never have been the slightest chance of air getting into the brake lines. If you didn't - I don't know, check them and let me know.
Now we are done completely, and feel free to post replies now.
I'll post my impressions in a bit, after I clear out my new post indicators.
2. Open the fuid resorvoir lid and discard the latex glove. Check to make sure no bits of torn latex fell into the resorvoir - it has a filter so it won't get too far. Fill the resorvoir to MAX.
3. From inside the car, push the clutch pedal to the floor. It should push easy and stay down by itself. If you feel pressure and it returns, you need to loosen the bleeder a bit more.
4. Pump the pedal 25 times at a normal rate of speed. If using your hand, You should be able to look down and see the fluid spurting out of the bleeder hose. After 25 pumps, the resorvoir will be at MIN. Top it off to MAX.
5. Repeat step 4 as many times as you desire, making sure that: a)you get a solid flow of fluid through the bleeder hose; and b)the fluid doesn't look filthy. If the fluid in the bleeder hose has gaps, that is air from the system. Keep bleeding until there is no more air.
6. Tighten the bleeder screw, remove the bleeder hose, and snap on the dust-cap. It's easier to do the dust cap from the engine bay. Now that the Speedbleeder sticks out farther, it is more easily accessed than the OEM screw was. You can see what I mean in photo 1.
7. Pump the clutch pedal. It should have normal pressure and return smartly.
8. Clean up and make a sandwich - you're done. It's a good idea to do a brake check before driving anywhere. If you used the latex glove, there should never have been the slightest chance of air getting into the brake lines. If you didn't - I don't know, check them and let me know.
Now we are done completely, and feel free to post replies now.
I'll post my impressions in a bit, after I clear out my new post indicators.
Last edited by B-Nez; 09-07-2004 at 05:57 PM.
09-07-2004, 06:18 PM
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Nice writeup. What do you think the foam covering on the OEM hose was for? Heat protection maybe?
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09-07-2004, 06:29 PM
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My guess would be some heat protection, plus maybe an additional barrier against oil deterioration of an already minute hose...it also seems like it helps reduce the chance of a hard kink in the hose.
09-07-2004, 07:50 PM
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Driving Impressions, SS Clutch Hose + Red Line MT-90
MT-90
A very slight improvement in gear rowing, which was great to begin with, and the synchros seem to work a little bit better. This is a great longevity mod, though, and that is enough to make it worthwhile. Also, it compliment the new clutch hose very well.
SS Clutch Hose
There was not a huge difference at first. The clutch didn't feel any different pulling out of the parking lot and trawling around. As I got out onto the major roads and came up on some corners, I began to notice something interesting. Clutch engagement and disengagement was very consistent. Every time I pressed and released it - no matter which gear, no matter what rpm - the engagement/disengagement was in precisely the same spot. I found myself, as a result, shifting the gears much quicker and consistently cleaner than before. I began to realize what had bothered me so much about the clutch before. Most of the time you nailed the engagement exactly right, and sometimes...not so much. It was really flighty. Sometimes it would grind a gear, sometimes it wouldn't. Of course, there was the dreaded redline 1-2 shift, which admittedly had become pretty rare with me, but I could always feel the propensity for that. Now, the 1-2 is very clean and quick, and it really improves the confidence of your clutching and gear changes. By confidence, I mean confidence that when you move your hands and feet the car will do what you intended, rather than grind and leave you coasting, or bog (hesitate) after the changeup.
In summation, it's not a "subtract tenths from your 1/4-mile" type of mod, but it is a definite improvement in the driveability and road manners of the car. It's a mod that empowers you. My car is not any faster than it was, but I think the driver is...
A very slight improvement in gear rowing, which was great to begin with, and the synchros seem to work a little bit better. This is a great longevity mod, though, and that is enough to make it worthwhile. Also, it compliment the new clutch hose very well.
SS Clutch Hose
There was not a huge difference at first. The clutch didn't feel any different pulling out of the parking lot and trawling around. As I got out onto the major roads and came up on some corners, I began to notice something interesting. Clutch engagement and disengagement was very consistent. Every time I pressed and released it - no matter which gear, no matter what rpm - the engagement/disengagement was in precisely the same spot. I found myself, as a result, shifting the gears much quicker and consistently cleaner than before. I began to realize what had bothered me so much about the clutch before. Most of the time you nailed the engagement exactly right, and sometimes...not so much. It was really flighty. Sometimes it would grind a gear, sometimes it wouldn't. Of course, there was the dreaded redline 1-2 shift, which admittedly had become pretty rare with me, but I could always feel the propensity for that. Now, the 1-2 is very clean and quick, and it really improves the confidence of your clutching and gear changes. By confidence, I mean confidence that when you move your hands and feet the car will do what you intended, rather than grind and leave you coasting, or bog (hesitate) after the changeup.
In summation, it's not a "subtract tenths from your 1/4-mile" type of mod, but it is a definite improvement in the driveability and road manners of the car. It's a mod that empowers you. My car is not any faster than it was, but I think the driver is...
09-08-2004, 12:08 PM
#10
Awesome install and great writeup! I am still waiting on my MS clutch line from CZ to be delivered. I do not think I will install mine DIY style, but your instructions are pretty convincing enough to make me think about it though...
Was this the Mazdaspeed line you installed by the way?
Was this the Mazdaspeed line you installed by the way?
09-08-2004, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Nemesis8
Awesome install and great writeup! I am still waiting on my MS clutch line from CZ to be delivered. I do not think I will install mine DIY style, but your instructions are pretty convincing enough to make me think about it though...
Was this the Mazdaspeed line you installed by the way?
Was this the Mazdaspeed line you installed by the way?
As for the install, if you've ever done any clutch or hydraulic work at all, it is extremely easy. If you haven't, it may seem like an intimidating task, but it really is pretty easy. It's just one of those that if you start, you want to be able to finish. If you normally do fine with hard to reach fasteners and such, then it is not a big deal. But if you are easily "owned" by hard to reach fasteners then you may want to let a professional handle it. Your car will be undrivable if you give up halfway through. Not to scare you or anything, just trying to be realistic. Also, the clutch bleeding procedure is different if you don't have the Speedbleeder. A normal bleeder requires 2 people to do it (or a Mighty-Vac). I've tried other 1-man kits, and they've all sucked. I've found the Mighty-Vac to work pretty well, too, but it can be a pain having to constantly empty the little container; plus you work under the car which makes constantly getting up and down to top off the resorvoir a pain.
09-08-2004, 06:27 PM
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B-Nez,
Nice write up! This should make it easy for other people to follow in your footsteps.
Have you installed stainless brake lines? If you haven't, they should be next on your list. They are easier to install than the clutch line because they are more accessible and they really change the feel of the brakes: rock hard pedal with excellent modulation. It's all good. :D
Nice write up! This should make it easy for other people to follow in your footsteps.
Have you installed stainless brake lines? If you haven't, they should be next on your list. They are easier to install than the clutch line because they are more accessible and they really change the feel of the brakes: rock hard pedal with excellent modulation. It's all good. :D
09-08-2004, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Nemesis8
Awesome install and great writeup! I am still waiting on my MS clutch line from CZ to be delivered. I do not think I will install mine DIY style, but your instructions are pretty convincing enough to make me think about it though...
Was this the Mazdaspeed line you installed by the way?
Was this the Mazdaspeed line you installed by the way?
Thanks in advance
09-08-2004, 10:26 PM
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No, I don't have SS brake lines. I'd like to do that, too, but I can't really convince myself to sink another couple hundred bucks in car parts right now. See, my other obsession is clothes shopping, so I gotta balance the two...:D
09-09-2004, 08:26 AM
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After your next shopping spree you can add them to your wish list. 
You should be able to pick up a set for less than $150. I went with a set from Agency Power and have been happy with them so far. The construction is the same as your clutch line, stainless steel braid with a clear plastic jacket.
You should be able to pick up a set for less than $150. I went with a set from Agency Power and have been happy with them so far. The construction is the same as your clutch line, stainless steel braid with a clear plastic jacket.
09-28-2004, 10:52 PM
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hey...was your uppepr clutch pipe difficult to undo...?
i need a new clutch pipe now cuz the bolts were SO tight that i stripped the nutz (had right sizes)i dont know HOW they stipped the wrenches fit perfect....and the pipe is a lil bent now...
i need a new clutch pipe now cuz the bolts were SO tight that i stripped the nutz (had right sizes)i dont know HOW they stipped the wrenches fit perfect....and the pipe is a lil bent now...
09-28-2004, 11:18 PM
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No, mine loosened right up really easy. Sorry to hear you had trouble. This is a REALLY stupid question, but are you sure you were turning the wrenches the right way? Again, forgive the dumb question. Is it all still in tact and functioning, at least?
09-29-2004, 08:04 PM
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lol, don't be bothered i was concerned aobut the same thing buti had three people WATCH me and agree ti was the right way) it's no biggy...but my prob is ...how much is a clutch pipe?