But the question is how the heck do you get that thing out without making a mess???

 

Poke a hole in the top of the filter, to allow it to drain completely. Let it sit for a bit. Take it off. Walla, no mess.

 

Oil Change instructions for Women:
1) Pull up to Jiffy Lube when the mileage reaches 3000 miles since the
last oil change.
2) Drink a cup of coffee.
3) 15 minutes later write a cheque and leave with a properly maintained
vehicle.

Money spent: Oil Change $20.00 Coffee $1.00 Total $21.00
---------------

Oil Change instructions for Men:
1) Wait until Saturday, drive to auto parts store and buy a case of oil,
filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree, write a cheque for $50.00.
2) Stop by liquor store and buy a case of beer, $35.00, drive home.
3) Open a beer and drink it.
4) Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands.
5) Find jack stands under kid's pedal car.
6) In frustration, open another beer and drink it.
7) Place drain pan under engine.
8) Look for 9/16 box end wrench.
9) Give up and use crescent wrench.
10) Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: splash hot oil on face and arms in
process. Cuss.
11) Crawl out from under car to wipe hot oil off of face and arms. Throw
kitty litter on spilled oil.
12) Have another beer while watching oil drain.
13) Spend 30 minutes looking for oil filter wrench.
14) Give up; crawl under car and hammer a screwdriver through oil filter
and twist off.
15) Crawl out from under car with dripping oil filter splashing oil
everywhere from holes.Cleverly hide old oil filter among trash in trash can
to avoid environmental penalties.
16)Drink a beer.
17) Buddy shows up; finish case of beer with him. Decide to finish oil
change tomorrow so you can go see his new garage door opener work.
18) Sunday: Skip church because "I gotta finish the oil change." Drag pan
full of old oil out from underneath car. Cleverly dump oil in hole in back yard
instead of taking it to recycle.
19) Throw kitty litter on oil spilled during step 18.
20) Beer. No, drank it all yesterday.
21) Walk to liquor store; buy beer.
22) Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin coat of oil to gasket
surface.
23) Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine.
24) Remember drain plug from step 11.
25) Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan.
26) Remember that the used oil is buried in a hole in the back yard along
with drain plug.
27) Drink beer.
28) Shovel out hole and sift oily mud for drain plug. Re-shovel oily patch
of ground and avoid environmental penalties. Wash drain plug in lawnmower gas.
29) Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor. Throw
kitty litter on oil spill.
30) Drink beer.
31) Crawl under car getting kitty litter into eyes. Wipe eyes with oily
rag used to clean drain plug. Slip with stupid crescent wrench tightening
drain plug and bang knuckles on frame.
32) Bang head on floorboards in reaction to step 31.
33) Begin cussing fit.
34) Throw stupid crescent wrench.
35) Cuss for additional 10 minutes because wrench hit Miss December (1992)
in the left boob.
36) Beer.
37) Clean up hands and forehead and bandage as required to stop blood
flow.
38) Beer.
39) Beer.
40) Dump in five fresh quarts of oil.
41) Beer.
42) Lower car from jack stands.
43) Accidentally crush remaining case of new motor oil.
44) Move car back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled during
steps 23 - 43.
45) Beer.
46) Test drive car.
47) Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the influence.
48) Car gets impounded.
49) Call loving wife, make bail.
50) 12 hours later, get car from impound yard.

Money spent: Parts $50.00, DUI $2500.00, Impound fee $75.00, Bail $1500.00
Beer $70.00,Total-- $4165.00 -- But you know the job was done right!!
:D :D

 

Brilliant! That's exactly how I change mine! (that is, the second procedure)

 

I must be a little slow today.

Poke a hole in the top??? How will that drain the filter?

The filter sits with the top up, so if you unscrew it, it will spill everywhere.

Will poking a hole allow it to release presure and drain back into the engine??

 

YES IT WILL

 

Ah apparently I'm not as dumb as I thought I was. Thanks!

 

yes the poke-a-hole-on-top-of-filter technique works great

 

Question about the Oil Filter.

I just wanted to know exactly what makes a Good Oil Filter and how can you tell ???

thanks!

 

:o K&N DOES, P/N HP-1008 GOLD SERIES BABY!

 

quality and amount of filtering element in the filter, and quality of build of filter container (mostly anti-drainback valve, less about casing)

 

You'll find a variety of useful links here, though some of the links are broken (including what appears to have been the best, if the number of other references to it are any guide).

Edit: Courtesy of the Internet Wayback Machine, here's an archived copy of that page.

 

the 2.3L in the 6 is actually ford based that is the same engine that's in the b2300 truck and soon to be mazda 3. the filter it uses is actually a paper element, not like the others. the small filter is used on miata, rx-7, protege(turbo, MP3, and the protege 5), rx-8, and in some cases the 626. mazda actually use 7 different types of filters depending on the model.

 

I just changed the oil on my 3rd gen and my miata at the same time and they both used the same oil filter.

 

I think it is worth noting that the latest Mazda filter (B6Y1-14-302-9A) from Europe is smaller in diameter vs. the previous "Miata" filters. I read about the change in size months ago and, well, it just didn't make any sense to me. The "Miata" filter had remained the same size for many many years... why the change in size now?

Well, given the location of the oil filter on the RX-8, I have to wonder if the new smaller filter wasn't specifically designed to allow an easier change on the 8.

It would be interesting to see if an "older" Miata filter would even fit without rubbing on something.

Mark

 

Yep, have a stash of "old style" (larger diameter) filters from my 10AE Miata. I have now used two of them on the RX-8, with no issue.

The dealer said they left the part number the same, just made the diameter a little smaller. Mazda now has an oil filter wrench (~$5) that incoporates both size filters in the same tool.

 

I will be getting free maintenance; I won't have to buy a filter for 50,000 miles.

 

I do oil changes at 2500 mile intervals, so I will be getting every 2nd one free (under the maintenance program). I still need the wrench.

 

If an oil filter has an antidrainbackvalve located at the inlet of the filter, HOW THE HELL DOES POKING A HOLE IN IT DO ANYTHING BUT MAKE A LEAKY HOLE? Anyone here know the flow of oil through the oil filter or their prized Renesis?

Even if this BS was true, why stir up captured particles and allow unfiltered oil, media particles, trapped crap, and other God knows what, to enter the oil flow passages?

Poking a hole in the filter serves one purpose. IT IS WHEN YOU HAVE NO OTHER MEANS TO REMOVE THE FILTER because some gorilla overtightened it. Large screwdrivers provide leverage.

Remove the filter with a oil filter wrench.
Use clean shop cloths to catch any spillage.

Most online oil and filter references were based on OPINION.

A good oil filter is one that works.
Quick oil pressure buildup, low oil pressure drop, quality internals and media..... Looking at one tells you nothing. Using the dash oil pressure gauge isn't accurate enough. You'll need a quality faster acting gauge with a sender mounted AFTER the filter to determine some of the specs by yourself. Even better would be to mount a sender before and after the filter for real filter to filter comparisons. ADBV performance is easy. Noisier engines clatter(oil pressure delay as filter fills) with filters that have leaky ADBVs. This usually means that the filter empties out overnight and you have an extended dry start in the morning. Filling the filter and blocking its outlet is another way of testing the ADBV. But, a measured amount of oil needs to be used and you'll have to wait a couple of days to get a good idea on how long it takes for the ADBV to leak completely.

Overpriced designer filters have media that is overly restricted. This can affect filtering bypass which means that unfiltered oil enters the engine.
Another bad result of restrictive media is excessive oil pressure at the oil pump. Oil pump wear increases. Oil pressure regulators dump excess pressure which reduces total oil flow in the engine.

 

Poking a nail thru the filter and waiting for it to drain back into the engine is standard practice for any filters mounted 'upside down' like the '8'.

It is also safe and effective. The anti drainback feature keeps the filter full for fast startup lubrication. the oil comes up the outside of the filter, lifts the rubber flaps, thru the media, and back to the system down the centre threaded outlet. 'Nailing' the outer 'can' just releases the vacuum and allows the retained oil to drop down the outlet. Any unfiltered oil between the rubber anti-drainback flap and the media has to now make its way thru the media in order to drain, hence the 20 minute requirement.

No unfiltered oil ever enters the system, no debris from the hole is on the filtered side, and the filter can be thrown out, empty.

The only way to get crap in the system is if you are driving a big screwdriver right thru, which is a different post altogether!

By the way, the Mazda Canada filter used on the '8' is a Fram.
Identical inside, without the Fram 'grip-coat' stuff on the top.
.
.
.
doc

 

Ouch!
Those have the rep of being the worst and cheapest in the business!