Who can guess what Renesis engine part this is ......................................
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Boosted Kiwi
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
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Boosted Kiwi
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
DAN YOU DA MAN!!
Ouch! i can only think about the side seals. Damn Bro--stay out of those high rpms on track--learned my lesson. Track redline for me is 7.5K
How much boost were you running?
How high of temps did you get?
You have to tear her down and get a new center plate?---can that be fixed?
OD
Ouch! i can only think about the side seals. Damn Bro--stay out of those high rpms on track--learned my lesson. Track redline for me is 7.5K
How much boost were you running?
How high of temps did you get?
You have to tear her down and get a new center plate?---can that be fixed?
OD
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Boosted Kiwi
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
DAN YOU DA MAN!!
Ouch! i can only think about the side seals. Damn Bro--stay out of those high rpms on track--learned my lesson. Track redline for me is 7.5K
How much boost were you running?
How high of temps did you get?
You have to tear her down and get a new center plate?---can that be fixed?
OD
Ouch! i can only think about the side seals. Damn Bro--stay out of those high rpms on track--learned my lesson. Track redline for me is 7.5K
How much boost were you running?
How high of temps did you get?
You have to tear her down and get a new center plate?---can that be fixed?
OD
Tried to do some logs but I could not retrieve them for some reason .
Boost was set at 10psi and tapering down to 8.5 at 7500 .
I was going to tear the engine down anyway to repair an oil leak i've had for over a year now . I already had bought a full set of used irons and housings so that was a bit of luck .
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Boosted Kiwi
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
thanks for the info--if temp gauge was at 3/4--thats about 230-240F?
Dang--- thats not "high" boost at all.
? is --why the overheating--your timing is not that advanced is it?
were you logging your a/f's also?
Maybe big old gauges with flashing red lights next time(like me). I am also considering adding a warning cow bell to get me out of that track "red mist".
This brings up a good point about egt's too hot and a/f sensors going beserko--i have had that happen in bumper to bumper traffic when it was over 100 outside and my w/m was out of fluid.
olddragger
Dang--- thats not "high" boost at all.
? is --why the overheating--your timing is not that advanced is it?
were you logging your a/f's also?
Maybe big old gauges with flashing red lights next time(like me). I am also considering adding a warning cow bell to get me out of that track "red mist".
This brings up a good point about egt's too hot and a/f sensors going beserko--i have had that happen in bumper to bumper traffic when it was over 100 outside and my w/m was out of fluid.
olddragger
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Boosted Kiwi
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
thanks for the info--if temp gauge was at 3/4--thats about 230-240F?
Dang--- thats not "high" boost at all.
? is --why the overheating--your timing is not that advanced is it?
were you logging your a/f's also?
Maybe big old gauges with flashing red lights next time(like me). I am also considering adding a warning cow bell to get me out of that track "red mist".
This brings up a good point about egt's too hot and a/f sensors going beserko--i have had that happen in bumper to bumper traffic when it was over 100 outside and my w/m was out of fluid.
olddragger
Dang--- thats not "high" boost at all.
? is --why the overheating--your timing is not that advanced is it?
were you logging your a/f's also?
Maybe big old gauges with flashing red lights next time(like me). I am also considering adding a warning cow bell to get me out of that track "red mist".
This brings up a good point about egt's too hot and a/f sensors going beserko--i have had that happen in bumper to bumper traffic when it was over 100 outside and my w/m was out of fluid.
olddragger
A/F was fine - in the low to mid 11s
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Boosted Kiwi
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Come to think of it - I had a strange rattling noise a while back which dissappeared a few months ago . That could have been it - gradually getting weaker then breaking free . In which case - I'm wondering if removing the divider altogether might be an option for FI ?
Will be interesting to see what the inside of the engine looks like .
Will be interesting to see what the inside of the engine looks like .
The problem is that as you advance the timing...the chance of detonation increases greatly
Any ideas what your EGT's were running? And how much advance?
Some tuners have been retarding the timing a lot to help with the pinging...but this shows we need to be careful about that as well.....that chunk would not do your turbo much good
So we are kinda in between a rock and a hard place....melting exhaust ports on one end...and detonation and broken Apex seals on the other....
Hotter than usual temps and warmer intake charge temps likely didn't help much
I doubt the rotors/seals would hold up to that kind of abuse...so taking them out wouldn;t be an option
Any ideas what your EGT's were running? And how much advance?
Some tuners have been retarding the timing a lot to help with the pinging...but this shows we need to be careful about that as well.....that chunk would not do your turbo much good

So we are kinda in between a rock and a hard place....melting exhaust ports on one end...and detonation and broken Apex seals on the other....
Hotter than usual temps and warmer intake charge temps likely didn't help much

I doubt the rotors/seals would hold up to that kind of abuse...so taking them out wouldn;t be an option
i dont think this engine likes running without that separator--i have heard of some tongue type extenders being placed on it but never getting rid of it.
There is also work that can be done to lower the exhaust port temps.
OD
There is also work that can be done to lower the exhaust port temps.
OD
By the way, easing timing (all else remaining the same) raises EGT's.
B
B
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From: Y-cat-o NZ

Wonder about reducing the length of the seperator significantly so there is just enough seperator there to turn the gas towards the outlet so none goes back into the adjacent port . It may be possible to significantly increase the x-sectional area of the port if you could find the right length seperator .
Last edited by Brettus; Nov 20, 2009 at 10:33 PM.
I have a feeling mine melted off some time ago (unrelated to the recent track day) - it has been running sweet 
Wonder about reducing the length of the seperator significantly so there is just enough seperator there to turn the gas towards the outlet so none goes back into the adjacent port . It may be possible to significantly increase the x-sectional area of the port if you could find the right length seperator .

Wonder about reducing the length of the seperator significantly so there is just enough seperator there to turn the gas towards the outlet so none goes back into the adjacent port . It may be possible to significantly increase the x-sectional area of the port if you could find the right length seperator .
B
No overlap...no foul..can't see any way to get exhaust reversion..
I wonder what the constant "annealing" is going to do to the side seal springs though?
Hopefully the outer ports can be cleaned up enough to get more flow than the center compromise ones...
I wonder what the constant "annealing" is going to do to the side seal springs though?
Hopefully the outer ports can be cleaned up enough to get more flow than the center compromise ones...
That's where people were going wrong in the exhaust thread, just because there is no intake-exhaust overlap, doesn't mean you can't push exhaust gasses back into the chamber and compromise the fresh intake charge.
You will be blasting the opposite rotor side seals and side face without the divider, your engine won't live long without it
while there's no intake/exhaust overlap within a single rotor cycle you'd have to mock both rotors up to see where the intake/exhaust cycles between rotors lines up
IMO a wider housing with separate exhaust ports, a center e-shaft housing bearing, and 2-pc e-shaft would have made one hell of an engine, but the production costs would be a lot higher too
after 5 years they still can't even get their sh-t together on rotor variances for the current engine, so a higher tech engine would only be more of a production issue
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while there's no intake/exhaust overlap within a single rotor cycle you'd have to mock both rotors up to see where the intake/exhaust cycles between rotors lines up
IMO a wider housing with separate exhaust ports, a center e-shaft housing bearing, and 2-pc e-shaft would have made one hell of an engine, but the production costs would be a lot higher too
after 5 years they still can't even get their sh-t together on rotor variances for the current engine, so a higher tech engine would only be more of a production issue
.
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Last edited by TeamRX8; Nov 21, 2009 at 10:20 AM.
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Boosted Kiwi
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Perhaps I'm mistaken, then. I need to study this a bit more intently. I've got enough torn down Renesis motors here to be able to mock something up. It just to me, however, seems counter-intuitive to run without some sort of center exh port divider. But, then again, un-divided exhaust manifolds do the same damn thing only a few inches down stream from the exhaust ports on older motors. Hmmm...
B
B
I think that this is the biggest problem we have to deal with..there seems to be more "in" potential than "out"



