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unscrewed the wrong nut during radiator replacement

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Old 04-06-2014, 07:02 PM
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unscrewed the wrong nut during radiator replacement

Been a while since I've posted.

So anyways I did the radiator DIY this weekend. Unfortunately, though I replaced the radiator successfully I inadvertently killed my AC.

The radiator was a B*tch to take out. I was having a hell of a time trying to squeeze the radiator out from between the fan tray and the AC condenser. Kept getting stuck not enough room to slide out. I would have removed the radiator+fan tray all in one piece, however, there was a cooler line clamped on the side of the fan tray that would not budge. I didn't want to break or bend the cooler line. That thing was stuck. (I eventually popped it out by hand from underneath after removing the radiator).

During my frustration, I hastily decided to unloosen one nut holding the condenser line on the passenger side front of the car. Immediately refrigerant started blasting out. I quickly tightened the nut back up. However, even though I wrenched on it very hard refrigerant was still slowly leaking out. By this morning, it was gone.

My question is would a simple re-charge suffice? Since there was no pressure this morning, I removed the nut completely and looked at the two halves. They seemed fine. There was one o-ring in there, looked fine. I tightened it back up. I'm hoping I didn't do some kind of permanent damage. I don't understand how it was still leaking out even when I tightened the nut back up.

Below is a picture of the exact nut I loosened that killed my AC. Please don't make the same mistake as me. There is a bracket nut about two inches away. Had I loosened that one, it would have given me the desired result without breaking the seal on the refrigerant. Oh well, lesson learned.

Any advice welcome.

Thanks

2004 RX-8
Attached Thumbnails unscrewed the wrong nut during radiator replacement-ac-nut.jpg  
Old 04-06-2014, 07:32 PM
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You probably crimped that oring just a little or it was out of place from the pressure flowing out.

Replace that oring for sure. Then you can recharge it. Don't forget to add a thing of oil for a 134A system. It will probably work fine, but any water in the system will turn the refigerant into an acid compound and it will begin to eat through your a/c system.

You really should replace all the orings in the system that you can easily get to. Then Vacume the system for 30 min to an hour. Once that is done you can refill it.
Old 04-06-2014, 08:02 PM
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it was out of place from the pressure flowing out
Great explanation! Thanks. Where do I add the oil? You mean oil the o-ring? I will probably just have a local mazda mechanic do the re-charge since I don't have the right equipment. But I can replace and lubricate the o-rings beforehand myself.

I'm assuming water could only enter from moisture in the outdoor air. Once it lost pressure and I opened it up and exposed it to open air. Is that what you mean by water getting in there? And hence the need to vaccum first?
Old 04-06-2014, 08:11 PM
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Yes, just lube the o-rings a little. If you are having someone charge it then don't worry about the oil.

But to be clearer. the system should use about 6 ounces of oil in it. It is sucked in while it is under vaccum. That luibricates the compressor.

Yes water enters from moisture in the air. I know you didn't have it open long, but I would not take the chance. A compressor costs a lot more then having the system vaccumed.

I would not use Mazda for this. It is a simple AC system, most small shops can do it for a lot cheaper and they will probably give it a better charge. Mazda will probably put in the recommended amount of fluid and call it good. Yes, Technically that is the correct way to do it, but I prefer to use pressure temp tables to get my system as cold as possable.
Old 04-06-2014, 10:10 PM
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FIRST, replace the o ring, put a bit of R134a into it to see if the pressure holds overnight.

if it does, let the r134a go, deep vacuum it (29in++), wait again overnight see if it holds,

if it does, charge it.

if it doesn't, something is wrong.

Mind u, u better do this in a few days because PAG oil LOVES moisture and it will **** your system up if left open for too long.

if I were u, I will replace the drier (you can actually open it, it's part of condenser), and flush the compressor with fresh PAG oil. but that's because I know how to do it and I have all equipment. you don't. so maybe u should let an AC shop do it for u. do not let them put any stop leak bullshit into the system, those **** does more harm than good.

Last edited by nycgps; 04-06-2014 at 10:13 PM.
Old 04-07-2014, 10:04 PM
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Thanks guys.

So I took the car to Mr. Mazda today. $113 for the re-charge. He said the system actually had some charge remaining, albeit not much. He checked the o-ring said it was fine. So he evacuated the system and then pumped in the fresh PAG oil/dye followed by the r134a. The oil has the bright green dye in it so if there were any leaks, it would be obvious. No leaks.

So one nut was a $113 mistake. Still not bad, could have been worse. Mr. Mazda said it is a 2.5 hour job for them to do the radiator which is $315. So I saved $315-$113=$200 by doing it myself. In hindsight, the 8 hours it took me, the waste of my weekend, and the hassle, I think I'd let Mr. Mazda do it next time!

Last edited by breezy_rx8; 04-07-2014 at 11:56 PM.
Old 04-08-2014, 08:49 AM
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well, if you didn't make that mistake, you could've saved over 300 bux.

the more you try, the less **** up next time.
Old 04-08-2014, 10:28 AM
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I left my system unhooked for 4 months, bolted it back in and recharged never had a problem.
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