wcs

iTrader: (2)

Here is the scoop.

OEM Coils only have about 15,000 km (maybe)

Spark Plugs changed last year may have 10,000 km

Run 94 octane religiously

Had the car out today and it ran fine.

Got home turned car off, went in house realized I forgot something and had to go back out.

Car started right up no issues, however moving in to reverse I thought "gee that felt like it was going to stall".
So I let it idle and sure enough it stalled.
Started it right back up and drove to the store, it would not idle.
Car seemed to move through rpm range ok, but maybe just maybe a exhaust note change.

Got back to my garage, car stalled, started up, car stalled immediately. Once more now.... started fine ---- CAR NOW SURGED 3 or 4 times died and pop the cell P0335

I reset the ecu using the cobb ap

Same story, and code returns.

Sooo anything else?
Thanks

edit:
Cleaning the Eccentric Shaft Sensor did the trick!
Remember to do the 20 brake tap to reset the ess memory

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Update:
Wow Ray from BHR called me .... on a Saturday ... to help me out ... how awesome is that?!?!?
And this issue doesn't even have anything to do with his stuff.... that's customer service.

I will not be able to work on the car until tomorrow, but thought I would update as most of my searches for P0335 have come up with strange things.
Like oil changes and spark plugs causing the problem not to mention those little Pine Tree air fresheners.
So I thought it might be good to actually post relative information to my findings.

Other than the already mentioned I will be:

1) Doing the 20 brake peddle press. Using the Cobb to reset the ECU resets the fuel trims. It will not impact the P0335 cell error.
2) Cleaning the Eccentric shaft position sensor

@!!narotordo

Uhhh yeah clean your eccentric shaft position sensor

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

^ For sure..you might have picked up a piece of metal...


If you know anyone with a spare sensor...it would be worth a try...or swap one off a buddies car and see if it helps..

There are likely a few used ones for sale..there was a couple of guys selling bits off long blocks..look in the for sale threads

gregs

iTrader: (7)

i get this code at times, i dont experience a rough idle but get a very extended crank and start (only tends to happen once a month) i have visually inspected my e shaft connector no sign of contamination or damage..

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Check the face of the sensor....often it will pick up bits of metal and degrades the sensor signal

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Yesterday (Sunday)
I did the 20 brake peddle press, car idled perfectly.
However it didn't take long to degrade back to the original problem.
I could see the AFR's where extremely rich at 11.0

I dropped back to a Stock Style tune and that seemed to improve things silently, car would idle anyway.

Today ( Monday )
Went out for a cruise to check things out and sure as sure even with the stock tune I got a P0335 and P0172 (too rich fuel 2) cell... ok to be expected.

Took the eccentric shaft sensor out and it was totally completely covered in crap

Dirty sensor


Clean sensor


Measure ohms, sensor seemed ok.



Put everything back together -- Car idled incredibly smooth, initial drive down the street seemed good (under 4k rpm)
Then things went to ****.

By the time I got back to my garage car was having a hard time idling and when it did AFR at 11.0 .....
Actually 11.0 to 12.7 AFR common throughout entire rpm range?

I'm stumped....
Could the eccentric shaft sensor be dirty again (more debris in there?)
Vacuum Leak?
Maf

Before I start tearing everything apart I would like to have an idea of what to look for .....

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Did you reset the ESS after the re-install?


If you have a COBB...is it masking any CEL's?

Is it in open loop all the time? Check the AP and see if anything looks strange in the logs...

Anything else happen just before the problem started? Be precise..a little thing might help us out..

jasonrxeight

clean MAF?

wcs

iTrader: (2)

I will check the MAF, but I am pretty **** about keeping it and the air filter clean.
I do have a second MAF if I need or want to try and replace this.

I will inspect tonight.

edit: Just checked - its physically fine, clean and in one peace. MAF Screen looks good as well.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

I did reset the ESS after the re-install, assuming the resetting the ESS is performed by doing the 20 tap brake peddle procedure.

I will have to go out and get some data logging down.

Like I said I am not sure what to look for in the logs so I will turn on all the data logging .... and go for a drive.
I will start by resetting the nvram (20 tap brake) and resetting the ecu...

Thanks

edit: I haven't gotten any new cel's yet .... it appears the ESS reset did the job

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Its only coincidence that I happen to have a emission test scheduled for today.
After a vehicle is 5 years old its required to have an emissions test every other year on the month of your plate renewal date. Plate renewals are the same month as your birthday.

Anyways I cleaned the MAF, changed the Oring and reinstalled.

Set Cobb to Stock Style, did the 20 tap brake peddle procedure and left for my test.

Well the car failed.
Actually threw a cell - P2270: Rear HOS2 stuck lean.

Technician said that's typical of a failed cat.
I told him about the car .. blah blah blah... he still thought the hi flow cat was prolly toast (RP High Flow Cat)
Car does stink bad.

Here is my test results, if you know how to read it please enlighten me:




Last but not least, a couple of drive cycles now and my idle issue has not returned nor have I seen any weird 11.0 afr readings....



Thanks for any advice....
I feel this thread is almost becoming like my own personal blog. lol

PS: I do have the OEM cat, I need to get the O2 sensor hole fixed (threads are messed up) then I'm going to reinstall and try test again.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Your Cobb was masking the CEL...your CAT is toast....

Often you won't pass emissions with a high flow ca
CAT even if it`s new....

Might need a new rear O2 as well

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Ugh
Thanks dannobre.
I am in the process of re-installing the OEM cat ...

How much / Where and should I just get another OEM O2 sensor?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Mazmart was selling them at a good price...

Otherwise the dealer..the rear O2 are not too bad price wise

Canadian prices suck all around.....but brokerage fees sometimes aren`t worth it either.....

I`m lucky...I live 5 min from the border and have an American address I can use

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Thanks man...
So basically stick with the OEM and try and find the best price.

Thinking maybe even try a wreckers ....

Thanks again

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Update:
The car is running fine right now

Items I physically affected or changed (not including ecu and nvram resets)
- Eccentric shaft sensor cleaned
- MAF Sensor Cleaned
- MAF Sensor Oring changed
- RP High Cat replaced with OEM Cat

I haven't been able to get the car back in for another emissions test but I am pretty sure it will pass now. Its running smooth again.
Running on the Stock Style tune from Cobb - have had no cells.
Tomorrow I am going to uninstall the Cobb and do a few more drive cycles to make sure I don't get any cells.

This whole thing has been both a learning experience and a strange set of circumstances which I don't think have been fully answered. <shrug> Car is running fine now, I guess I should leave well enough alone.

BTW its 160 cdn for a rear O2 sensor from the dealer here in Orangeville .. not bad really.

Hopefully this will be my last post for this issue. Will answer questions however.

chelecuche

iTrader: (7)

I have been trying to find where the eccentric shaft sensor is located and I have no clue, I'm having your same problem, and i would like to take it out and cleaned... can anybody pint me where is located?...

Thanks

wcs

iTrader: (2)

This thread use to have pictures, I'm sure of it.
I will repost links when I get a chance

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Have a look here for location of ECS

http://www.blackhaloracing.com/shopmanual/

Select Engine
Select Control System
Select Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor Removal/Installation
Volia'

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

Im going to assume that you had to take the under tray out in order to remove the eccentric shaft sensor?

wcs

iTrader: (2)

You can get at it the same way you would the spark plugs.

Jack the car up and place a safety stands under your preferred locations, remove driver side tire.
You should be able to crawl in there and get it removed.

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

Just my luck...






After some scrubbing with a toothbrush and electric component cleaner

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

That sucks, did you drill it out?

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

Not yet. I was almost out of light by the time the sensor came out. 29 degrees outside didn't help either. I hope I can get a drill in there since the space is tight. Good thing the RX8 is under hibernation for the winter.