cas2themoe

Please excuse my ignorance on this topic, but I have very little knowledge about these parts. Ok, here we go....

I haven't had a problem my 8 in a while until a couple months ago. My clutch bracket snapped(TSB) AND my slave/master cylinder went out(so they say). I know it wouldn't make sense for both to go out at the same time.

Anyways, I replaced the bracket, master and slave cylinder. Though I dont think I had to replace both, I just did despite. I know, what a waste of money.

Well......I think one of them is going out again.

The car was working great after they so called replaced everything. What happens is once the car is warm, its hard to put into any gear(especially reverse). These are the same symptoms I had before.

Now, if I have the car off (cold or hot) it will go into any gear with ease and I can start it up and go, but will have the problem again once going. Its really hard to switch gears when I am driving.

Does anyone have any ideas on what this could be? Is there any possible way the parts are bad AGAIN, even though it been less than a year since they were replaced with new parts?

Questions/Suggestions/Comments are welcomed

Thanks in advance!

Go48

Do you have a firm pedal feel. If not, you might want to try bleeding the hydraulics. Actually I would suggest that you try that in any case. Although it sounds like the problem may be with the clutch assembly itself. It is unlikely IMO, and as you surmise, that the broken clutch pedal bracket and both hydraulic cylinders would go at the same time. Maybe the techs mis-diagnosed an existing clutch problem as a problem with the hydraulics. They may have replaced both the master and the slave to save themselves the time (and you the $$$) required to diagnose which of the units was actually "faulty".

Since you have an after-market clutch, it is very unlikely they will replace it under warranty. So if you take it back for diagnosis, be prepared for that. Good luck!

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

You would think that the clutch system was bled after the master and slave cylinder were replaced.
But I agree with Go48, I would do it just to rule that out.

cas2themoe

Now, the questions is where do I bleed them???? lol Like I said, I am completely ignorant to the clutch, hydro setup on the car................

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I'm curious on how others answer this too.

I couldn't easily bleed my slave cylinder, couldn't see how one could put a wrench on it and have room for rotation.
I actually removed the two bolts holding the slave cylinder on and one bolt holding the clutch line bracket.
I then lowered the slave cylinder so I could bleed it from under the car.

Some are probably laughing at this method, but I couldn't get it to work with it still on the transmission.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Agree that a good bleed is all that should be necessary .

To test this :
Start the car
push in the clutch pedal
listen to the noise from the gearbox
very slowly release the pedal and listen for a change in the noise from the gearbox
also listen for the change in noise as you push the clutch in . If the noise does not change until the pedal is right on the floor it either needs bleeding or adjusting .

cas2themoe

I'll try this in the morning. But I could definitely hear the throw-out bearing going on and off today when I was pressing the clutch. I'll check again to where it actually engages. I think its the bleeding as well......

Razz1

Check the DIY, I believe you blled the brakes farthest from MC first. After you are finished with all 4 brakes bleed it at the MC.

2004/ 2005 have bleeder there.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

My '04 doesn't have a bleed screw on the MC.
Even if it did, I would still rather bleed it from the slave.

Go48

If all else fails, consult the factory service manual (which if free for the download, BTW).

cas2themoe

**UPDATE**

Drove the car twice yesterday and didn't have a problem with it. So Strange, hope the problem doesn't come back again.

cas2themoe

Another update

I drove the car today for a long time (it was about 90 outside) and it started giving me problems once the engine and trans got hot. I couldnt get it into any gear easy. I had to actually turn off the car and put it in reverse just to get it in that gear! This is sad!!!! I just replaced those damn parts less then a year ago. There is no way the master or slave cylinder is going out again, correct????

There has to be air in the line or something? It just gets worse because the fluid thins when hot? Please advise.....

Side note: When it gets hot, its harder to start from a stand still. As if the engine doesnt have enough power to make the trans catch the clutch.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

did you try that test i mentioned when it was hot ?

cas2themoe

I couldn't really notice a noise difference. I can hear the throw out bearing going on and off(as I always have). I just find it odd the gears switch pretty good when cold, but once hot, it is hard as hell.

How much should it cost for a shop to bleed the system? I really dont want to mess anything up or put even more air in the line.

cas2themoe

Also, is it hard to adjust the pedal?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Do you have the ACT heavy duty clutch ? If so you will benefit from a SS clutch line .

Check your clutch mechanism also for broken welds - this is a common fault .

for reference I hear the release brg engauge and disenguage when pedal is about 11/2" off the floor .

cas2themoe

Yes, I believe that is the one I have. I got the whole setup done at one time.

What is the SS clutch line suppose to help?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I have the same clutch and had difficulty getting the adjustment right initially - I did have to adjust the pedal travel to get it to work properly and eventually fitted the SS line and have had no problems since .
The problem you have is that with the HD clutch your pedal mechanism,hydraulic system, pedal adjustment etc has to be 100% spot on to work well .
The SS line helps by reducing the amount of oil needed to get full travel on the slave cylinder.
Rubber lines expand and therefore take up some oil .

try adjusting your pedal as a first step ....

cas2themoe

Hopefully I can find a DIY thread......

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

here you go - aim for the 5mm freeplay as you want as much pedal travel as possible ....

cas2themoe

After looking at the 2nd image. I do have about a 1 inch of play on the clutch when pressing it down before I feel resistance......

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

The pedal play (where you turn the rod to adjust) should be roughly 1/4"-1/2" before you feel resistance.
Following the manual Brettus attached above, move the rod in to spec.

cas2themoe

What do you guys think about this TSB? http://www.finishlineperformance.com...4-06-1641a.pdf

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

You mentioned in the 1st post that the slave cylinder was replaced, so I doubt that TSB is going to do any good.
Did you already bleed the clutch line?
How about checking the pedal play and stroke that Brettus mentioned?
These are things you should rule out.

cas2themoe

True..... I have not bleed the clutch line and checked for the pedal play. I am going to try and do everything at once. I am going to order the new clutch line as mentioned above as well.

I did some research on google and it seems a lot of people had the same problem after changing the stock setup. A lot of people suggested what you have(bleed and replace clutch line).