Car wont start: no cranking.
#1
CraigRX8
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Car wont start: no cranking.
Ok where do i start, gerabox was off car for about 3 months, starter just handing. When i put everything to gether my main fuse had blown. I assume this is from changing the conenction at the top of alternator (i take its a live connection) anyway, so everything works except indicators and starter.
I plugged in a dash hwak and it came up with a UO155 code which is a communications code.
What should i be doing next: Some people have suggested battery low, but i doubt it very much, the lights arent dimming inside, or starter even trying to go. I can hear the relay clicking in the engine bay. Some people have suiggested starter solenoid is stuck and give it hit?
If its a sensor in the gearbox, clutch position etc can i by pass it?
I plugged in a dash hwak and it came up with a UO155 code which is a communications code.
What should i be doing next: Some people have suggested battery low, but i doubt it very much, the lights arent dimming inside, or starter even trying to go. I can hear the relay clicking in the engine bay. Some people have suiggested starter solenoid is stuck and give it hit?
If its a sensor in the gearbox, clutch position etc can i by pass it?
#2
Zoom Zoom....
Since the problem includes BOTH your starter and indicators (turn signals), I would tend to suspect a power problem. Check all of the fuses (from the main fuse onwards). If no problems, then ignore the lack of turn signals.
EDIT: Please also have your battery on a charger. Verify you have +13 volts. You will kick yourself if you spend hours diagnosing and it turns out to be the battery.
There are two switches on the clutch pedal. The upper switch (hidden on the firewall side of the pedal arm) is the starter interlock switch. Continuity is when the clutch is depressed - so you can easily jump the switch with a wire / paperclip for testing purposes.
EDIT: Please also have your battery on a charger. Verify you have +13 volts. You will kick yourself if you spend hours diagnosing and it turns out to be the battery.
There are two switches on the clutch pedal. The upper switch (hidden on the firewall side of the pedal arm) is the starter interlock switch. Continuity is when the clutch is depressed - so you can easily jump the switch with a wire / paperclip for testing purposes.
Last edited by Silver06; 02-10-2009 at 05:16 PM.
#3
CraigRX8
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is that what the white and black connectors are for on the gearbox?
I also havent filled the gearbox with oil yet, does it have a sensor for this?
I also havent filled the gearbox with oil yet, does it have a sensor for this?
#4
Zoom Zoom....
On the M/T, the wiring harness has two connectors - one for the reverse lights sensor on your driver's side , and one for a 'neutral' switch. There is no fluid level sensor.
I wouldn't run the engine when there is no oil in the transmission. Especially if the transmission has not been lubricated for 3 months.
Edit: Just to clarify - the neutral switch is on the Driver's side for North American cars. (I'm assuming the O/P's car is RHD).
I wouldn't run the engine when there is no oil in the transmission. Especially if the transmission has not been lubricated for 3 months.
Edit: Just to clarify - the neutral switch is on the Driver's side for North American cars. (I'm assuming the O/P's car is RHD).
Last edited by Silver06; 02-10-2009 at 05:43 PM.
#5
CraigRX8
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IT WAS ONLY TO START IT. I WAS A BIT WORRIED PCM HAS LOCKED ITSELF AS THE CODE COMING UP ON THE DASHHAWK. bTW the dash is also completely out of the car at the miniute
#10
Zoom Zoom....
Okay. This adds to it. I'm not sure if the CanBus system will allow the engine to run if there are components disconnected, such as the instrument cluster and the modules behind the glovebox.
You might want to ask someone who has done an engine swap for their experience.
#11
CraigRX8
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ok, i have the instrument cluster, hooked up, thekeyless entry hooked up, but not the dsc etc, ill put it all back together again and try
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