Matt RX8

I started tracking my car last year and did 7 track days on some Motul Dot4 fluid that I put in last spring. Well that stuff is now pretty nasty looking and probably absorbed some moisture over the winter and I want to swap it out with some fresh stuff to start the season.

Does anyone have a DIY for a brake fluid flush? or maybe I can bleed all that old stuff out and replace it with some ATE blue or something. If so do you have a DIY for bleeding the brakes, because I don't know how to do that either.

I did a search but didn't find anything . Anyone know of a DIY for this sort of thing?

Also might want to install some braided brake lines, anyone know of a DIY for that.

atl8

iTrader: (1)

search for speed bleeders...what posts you do find will point you to the web page where you can purchase them, along with the sizes you need, and all the instructions you'll ever need to use them.

Go48

Bleeding brakes is a pretty generic task, so try a Google search and you should find any number of DIYs. As atl8 suggests, one simple method is to replace the bleeder screws with the so-called speed bleeders. These screws will pass brake fluid in one direction only and will not allow air to get back into the system from the calipers. Using these speed bleeder screws, attach a piece of clear vinyl tubing to the end of the screw and down into a container of some sort for holding the dispelled fluid. Pump away on the brake pedal until there are no more air bubbles visible in the fluid within the tubing. Or until the all the old fluid is no longer visible in the tubing. Keep a close watch on the fluid level in the master cylinder because if it drops too low, you will be starting over again. Bleed the calipers starting with the furthest from the master cylinder working up to the closest. That's RR-LR-RF-LF. Probably not absloutely necessary to do it that sequence, but it doesn't hurt.

Stainless steel lines are nice but not essential in a new car in my opinion. In a few years it might make sense to replace the rubber lines for general maintenance reasons. Keep in mind that the "rubber" brake lines have internal metallic components, so replacing them may not result in a noticable improvement in pedal feel or braking performance.

Best source I have found for speed bleeders is www.summitracing.com. Prices are about half of what I saw elsewhere.

Marc_GS

I'm curious about this too. I've read posts on this forum that suggest the master cylinder has to be bled first, then each wheel, then the master again. On other cars, and in some DIYs you'll find on the net, they don't mention bleeding the master. Anyone know if and why this is really required on the RX-8?

Go48

The factory service manual does not mention bleeding the master cylinder and a bleeder screw is not present on the master cylinder exploded diagram.

Of course, if you replace or rebuild a master cylinder you need to bench-bleed it before installing it into the car. Bench bleeding is a separate procedure that has nothing to do with bleeding the brake system generally. Maybe that's what you are referring to?

expo1

Bleeding the MC first & last is mentioned on page 2 of the brake section of the service manual and the bleeder screw is in plain sight PIC.
The screw is shown is some images in the manual, but it is not specifically mentioned.

Matt RX8

Thanks everybody, I should have everything I need now.

Go48

Oops, I stand corrected. Missed that page. My bad.

Marc_GS

Expo, on the page you attached, the title refers to bleeding air. Is there a consensus on whether or not this is required when you just swap fluid? In the case of air, it makes sense to bleed the master first and last, because air will have a tendency to move up to the highest point in the system (the MC), and then after you're done with the wheels because some air might have been displaced and travelled back up to the MC rather than flowing to the calipers. But just for fluid swapping, is it required?

expo1

Your brake pedal feel will tell you if you need it. But when it comes to brakes why take a chance? if I am changing fluid I end the job with a bleeding.

cajunrx8

You don't need to touch the Master Cyl if you keep the fliud level up in the reservoir.
Top off the master cyl reservoir, open the speed bleeder and pump the brake pedal until the level in the reservoir drops 2/3 of the way down or the fluid comes out clear and clean.
If the level drops b4 the fluid is clear, refill and continue to pump the pedal.
As Go48 said start at the fartherest point away from the master cyl and work your way back.
Also get the big bottle of fluid, the small containers won't be enough.

cajunrx8

Unless you buy more than one bottle of the small size.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I always suck the brake fluid out of the reservoir with a length of clear hose (has to be clear unless you like to live dangerously) . Then I fill it up & do the brake bleed . This way I get all the old fluid out without having to worry about it sucking air .

LionZoo

I don't think the 2005 or 2006 models came with a master cylinder bleeder. Also, how much brake fluid is needed for a complete system flush?

RX8Maine

That's right, my '05 does not have a master cylinder bleeder . . . so much for how vital it is to bleed it last!

1 liter should be more than enough for a complete flush. I think I used about 0.8 liters of ATE.

corners

You should never need to bleed the master cylinder if you haven't cracked open the brake lines.

When you are flushing you are just using the bleeders to replace fluid with fluid, so you should just be able to get away with one bleeding step at each wheel.

User24

iTrader: (1)

For some things, there are adequate fluid swap instructions + photos available here for novices so that we can nail them on the 1st attempt. Examples are coolant, engine oil, transmission, and rear differential. However, there is still a gap of documentation regarding brake bleeding for novices to the rx8. While it may be bled the same way as any other car, I've never bled any other car before.

I will try to bleed the brakes this weekend, and hopefully learn something that I can share. Right now I'm cautious because:

1. I don't know how the bleed screw looks like.

2. I don't know if I will have to remove the wheels or not to do this.

3. Other unanswered questions. Example, the Mityvac instructions recommends disconnecting the battery for anti-lock brake systems, and pumping the brakes 25-40 times to "release the pressure" prior to opening the bleed screw. I am unsure if this is necessary on the rx8.

But I intend to find out. This is the Mityvac I received in the mail, and the brake bleeding configuration instructions are horrible. Due to generic instructions, I'm not even sure which bleed screw adapters I will be using (L shape or tapered), what direction they go in, or how necessary the last inch of provided tubing is.

(There will be knowledgeable staff available to show me the basics, which is what will make this possible.)

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Well well well.

Im *finally* going to drop my tranny down tomorrow.I asked for a day off just to see if I can do that (boss yell at me like crazy, but hey he wont fired me so its all good)

Never had any experience with bleeding clutch/brake before. Searched around and found this

http://www.popularmechanics.com/auto...o/4213448.html

Very easy to follow instructions. I will follow it and see what happens.

oh one thing, do we have to bleed our ABS systems ?
(Update : Nope, dont seems to have one. I guess bleeding the system will be just fine?)

Maybe I can do a more detailed DIY for bleeding tomorrow ?

User24

iTrader: (1)

How did it go? I'll do mine tomorrow. Hopefully I won't have to remove the wheels, but if so:

108 ft/lb torque
star pattern
hand tighten star pattern, then begin to torque in star pattern
no thread grease

Will be the procedures.

Unfortunately I left the turkey baster at home, as well as an extra can of brake fluid.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I cant do it, some emergency came up and I have to deal with it first.

I will do it on monday. gay

Let ME know how it goes

User24

iTrader: (1)

I've completed it, and I have all the photos already uploaded. Forum was down so I couldn't post it yet.

I learned a few things, and I'll get this written up tonight and share so that all other first time bleeders will be able to avoid my mistakes.

The process combines two skills: removing tires and bleeding brakes. Since I've never removed tires before nor bled brakes, I will include both procedures in one topic for other true first-timers such as myself. That way we'll have rx8 specific photos and not have to rely upon a generic guide--pretty important for first timers to get that eyes-on for confidence.

I'll probably make a new thread and link to it from this one.

devildog1679

I did mine about 2 months ago and just like you guys it was my first time. It was really easy with the right tools. There are 6 bleed screws, 1 on each caliper, 1 on the master cylinder and one behind the oil filter for the clutch. The clutch one is a pain in the *** to get to, check this thread out https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=38618.html If you are going to do this by yourself with no help then I strongly recommend speed bleeders along with the bladder they sell www.speedbleeder.com. It can be done without them but you will need a second person, one to pump the brakes and one to screw and unscrew the bleeder screw. The screws will have a little rubber nipple on them that you need to remove. You start from the furthest point from the master cylinder. So that means rear right, rear left, front right, clutch, front left and finally master cylinder.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Sweeeeeet.

I have couple of projects coming up for my car, SS brake lines is one of them, and I will probably do that First before anything else.

Let us know !

mysql101

So... I need some help.

Tonight me and a friend changed my brake pads (hawk ceramic) and drained the brake fluid. The method for brake draining was basically loosening the plug on the caliper while the other guy held down on the brakes. We did this for all 4 sides, On the last wheel, the brake pedel didn't rise up all the way like it used to. So we added more fluid and drained a few more times to make sure no air was there. Still starts to brake about an inch further down than usual.

Will this settle, or is this a side effect of not doing the MC too?

avakiannl

iTrader: (1)

I'm having the same issue with a low pedal. It feels solid but is lower. Anyone have a suggestion?