Herblenny

I been having issues with my car and now I'm going thru the car in detail..

I just saw that my Baro sensor/Map/pressure sensor has a small piece of vac line that's not plugged in anywhere.. Just wanted to make sure if its suppose to be like this or should be plugged into the UIM somewhere..

Thanks!

PHIL

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Pic?

Herblenny

This sensor front of the air pump... I see that there is a small vac line attatched but looks to be broken.. I don't k now where it need to be plugged into..

Kane

iTrader: (1)

No your good - terminates into a side cut opening.

That is how it measures ambient pressure.

Herblenny

Thank you!

I just wanted to make sure its not plugged in anywhere!

Thanks!

Herblenny

No codes/CELs.. Thanks again for you help Ray!

PHIL

nuke0907

iTrader: (2)

does a MAP sensor go bad? when my coils crapped out on me the dealer was trying to say my MAP sensor was bad too.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Any sensor can fail......Why did they think it had failed? CEL..or did they guess

nuke0907

iTrader: (2)

i think they seen a CEL. i just got an AP so i can probably check the codes now. does it matter if my AP was for FI but i'm not FI yet?

nuke0907

iTrader: (2)

just checked the CEL's with my AP. looks like they might have been feeding me a line of BS about the MAP sensor. here's what i got:

PCM
P0300 random/multiple misfire (due to bad coils still)
P0410 secondary air injection system (don't know why i have this in)
P0336 crankshaft position sensor 'a' circuit range/performance ()
P0420 Cat blah, blah (no cat)
EPS (didn't have explanations for these so i have no idea what they are)
U1900
U2023
RKE (same as EPS)
U1900
TPMS (no tpms sensors)

so i did the reset and everything cleared. then i drove around the block. the CEL is gone except a couple flashes from misfiring but then clears.

any ideas if there's anything wrong?

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Air pump cycles every second start - so try it twice and see if it stays clear.

And 20 pedal reset to see if the eccentric shaft sensor clears up.

nuke0907

iTrader: (2)

i did the reset with the AP. it stayed clear after i drove it once. i'll see if it stays clear though.

now i just need to see why the ABS and traction control light wont reset. i tried the steering wheel reset a couple times but it didn't work. i'm get sick of grinding my tires up doing it.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Might have a bad wheel speed sensor... if one is off then the car will freak out. Can yu check all the wires and connections?

nuke0907

iTrader: (2)

maybe tuesday. its raining right now.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Big girl.....

nuke0907

iTrader: (2)

yeh yeah. i still have new wheels to put on too. not to mention a turbo and a bunch of other supporting mods.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

What; you need an invitation Cupcake?!?!?

Let's go Sailor!!!!

HAHA; sucks to not have a garage...

nuke0907

iTrader: (2)

maybe i do

seriously though, there's still some things i need to do to get the turbo ball rolling. some welding and ceramic coating are still on order.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Yeah man; I agree to wait until you have everything you think your gonna need ready to go - even then you'll still have a billion parts runs.

RX8dood

So Ive been having idle issues with my 08. On my car there are two vacuum nipples on the bottom half of the intake manifold. The rear rotors port connects to the barometric pressure sensor and the front rotors port has a hose on it, but its sealed at the end. When i looked at the vacuum diagram on this forum, it shows those two lines coming together and connecting to the accordion up at the front of the car by the airbox??? I hate to sound like a confused idiot here but i am what i am right now. I unplugged the electric cable from barometric sensor, and my idle stops bouncing, but the traction control warning light comes on until i reconnect it, then it idles like trash and sometimes stalls when i come to a stop.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Baro sensor doesnt connect to anything. It is atmospheric. If it is connected to manifold vac the car will run like crap.

disconnect it... and plug the ports on the intake.
reset the ECU

Loki

iTrader: (1)

+1^^
And also if that's how those lines are routed, I worry how the rest of the vacuum network looks. I'd take it all apart and route from scratch. I suppose the engine was replaced by someone who enjoys guesswork, at some point?

RX8dood

Thanks! That def stabled out my idle. Yeah the vac lines are all messed up on this car. Theres the line that comes from right next to the oil filler cap..the diagram shows that connecting to the accordion, and its just not connected to anything. (I see people recommend using a catch can on that line) the spot its supposed to connect to has a line connected to it but it goes down under the plenum and havent had the time to take everything off and trace back where everything is going yet. What a mess! haha

jkinard

It seems like the valve in back to the vacuum pump would account for barometric pressure and that one of the ports on the "high rise" part of the intake manifold would account for vacuum fluctuation as intake route is changed at high RPMs with increased exhaust in the separate MAP circuit. Also, a PCV connector with flow from the oil filler neck to the air intake (maybe with a small filter in case there's oil like can ruin the PCV on valve covers) might help with low vacuum (compression too?).

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Huh?