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Old 04-30-2008, 01:19 PM
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wireing questions

i have searched and i understand how to wire cars pretty good. I just have a few questions about the rx8. I have the bose system.

can you just use a plain cheap line-out converter for getting rca outputs?

is it nessisary to remove a rear seat to run the wires inside the car to the trunk without having them show?
Old 04-30-2008, 03:26 PM
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Cheap line output converters will work if you tap after the bose amp. If you wish to tap before the bose amp you will want something beefier. I have had very good luck with using an audiocontrol LC7.
Old 04-30-2008, 05:52 PM
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Ditto. I have heard of people running wires w/ out removing the rear seats, but it literally takes less than 2 minutes to remove both.
Old 04-30-2008, 06:46 PM
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literally!lol
Old 04-30-2008, 07:00 PM
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Is it just me, or do I read the same question once every other day?

Maybe we should rename the reference sticky we have at the top. Maybe it's misleading?

Anyway, Socket nailed it. And if you're just adding subs, IMO the regular cheaper LOC after the Bose amp is perfectly fine. No reason to invest in the higher end Audiocontrol units.
Old 05-01-2008, 10:42 AM
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It's just you!
Old 05-01-2008, 01:34 PM
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thanks alot for the help! i read the sticky. i just wanted to use a cheaper converter and i thought it said dont use it after the amp. Yea the seats are easy my fault. one more thing for the amp-turn on i was gona splice that wire in the center consol but idk how to get to it from the trunk.
Old 05-01-2008, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by firebirdude
Is it just me, or do I read the same question once every other day?

Maybe we should rename the reference sticky we have at the top. Maybe it's misleading?

Anyway, Socket nailed it. And if you're just adding subs, IMO the regular cheaper LOC after the Bose amp is perfectly fine. No reason to invest in the higher end Audiocontrol units.
We go over the same things a lot here in minor variations.

I think it happens because the sticky is not entirely clear and some of the links have discussions on the subject but not always a clear concise answer in those discussions.

Perhaps a re-write of the sticky is in order, but I'm way to lazy to do it.
Old 05-01-2008, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by tbonespeed12
thanks alot for the help! i read the sticky. i just wanted to use a cheaper converter and i thought it said dont use it after the amp. Yea the seats are easy my fault. one more thing for the amp-turn on i was gona splice that wire in the center consol but idk how to get to it from the trunk.
the center console pulls out pretty easily. its a bit more tricky then the seats but not much If you have the factory service manual to look at. You can run the wire to your trunk right underneath it. I'm using that method right now and I get a turn off thud when I shut the car off, so you'll probably want to get a delay to put on it to keep that from happening.
Old 05-01-2008, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Socket7
Perhaps a re-write of the sticky is in order, but I'm way to lazy to do it.
Agreed. ..... .... On both accounts. lol

tbone, you can get the same remote turn on from a Bose amp input. But i can't remember which color it is. And I'm far too lazy to search the boards for the answer.... try the sticky on page 2 or 3. Or the search function.
Old 05-02-2008, 08:12 AM
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well i searched and came up on (https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...3&d=1079646242) this diagram in (https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...+input+turn+on) this thread.

so do i tap pin number 1B.
Old 05-02-2008, 01:00 PM
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It's my understanding that pin 1B is constant 12V, not switched. I have not checked it with a meter though, so I could be completely wrong. I might check that this weekend to fix my own remote turn on issues.
Old 05-02-2008, 10:29 PM
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On page 2(?) or 3(?) of the FAQ, I tested the amp inputs with a multimeter. Two of them were switched 12V. Since then, I have heard of several people using one of them with perfect success.
Old 05-03-2008, 03:14 PM
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Ah! Here it is! I will try this tomorrow probably.

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=44
Old 05-04-2008, 04:41 PM
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well i spent all yesterday wireing everything up! i went to put the box in and . it was too big! 3ft^3. so i tapped the 12v outlett in the back counsol. I just attached a wire to the colored wire. i hope it works. i plan on hooking the amp up soon as i have the box in which should be this week. ill update then...
Old 05-06-2008, 08:05 AM
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grrrr thats it my stock navigation system is unusable there is not any map for my coyntry from navtech there is any way to connect in my car my second desktop computer? i want to make with the parts a car pc in a smaller box than the mid and try to conect with my stock screen. i want to put the pc in the trunk and connect it with my car and the bose player!!! someone who could help me and tell me if its possible to do this? my promblem is just to connect it with the screen and bose sound system and from where i could take the power for the pc?
Old 05-06-2008, 10:20 AM
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There is a box sold, i think by a vendor on the forums that will allow you to tap into the factory nav display for things like rearview cameras or carputers. The one with audio costs $$$ though.

I ran across it while doing my initial carputer research. search around and you'll find it too.
Old 05-13-2008, 07:41 AM
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ok i need a lot of help! i wired everything up but i am not getting any output voltage from the amp! i am getting power and the display is lighting up on the amp. i tapped the rear speaker wires with a cheap line out converter from walmart but it didn't work so i tried another one off eBay. this still does not work. idk if the converter is not working or if it is the amp. i don't think that the rca outputs are putting out any signal. the line out converter is 10k ohm so it may not be getting signal because electricity choses the path of leas resistance. i soldered all connections so idk what is the problem!
Old 05-13-2008, 08:36 AM
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ZERO output at all? Even a little tiny bit? Put your hand on the sub. Anything?

Since you're using non-powered LOCs, you need to tap into the Bose system AFTER the Bose amp.

Also most of the LOCs have a couple of adjustable *****. (Usually unmarked) Play with them a little to ensure they are turned up.

Use a friend with a system. Pull your cars next to each other. Unplug his RCAs and use a female to female barrel extenders to connect another length of RCAs. Run them over to your amp. Try it out.

Ensure that the amp is just not in protection status for some reason. So it may look powered up, but instantly goes into protection mode. (We could troubleshoot why later....)

Obviously ensure that the output is wired correctly. Each wire is making a connection. Sometimes when wire is shoved into push terminals, you actually shove it in too far and the push terminal rest on the wires's insulation causing no connection. Jiggle wires to see if you have a poor connection.
Old 05-13-2008, 10:17 AM
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I would get an iPod or PSP or something, and plug the headphone jack directly into your amp to see if you get any response out of the amp. It's a bit easier then using a friends car. Ideally for testing you'd want a laptop with a tone generator.

If you're having problems, the first thing to do is to isolate where the problem is. Plugging an external source into the amp will let you determine if the amp and sub are functioning properly (or not) and if your LOC is having issues (or not).

Make sure your crossovers and gains are set correctly too. A crossover for a sub should be set to low pass and no greater then 75Hz (unless you know what you're doing.)

Can you take photos of the wires you've tapped?
Old 05-13-2008, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Socket7
Ideally for testing you'd want a laptop with a tone generator.
They make small hand held tone generators with RCA plug outputs. We use em at the shop and would be the first thing I'd grab in this case. But I'm sure he doesn't have access to one. Good call on the MP3 player though.
Old 05-13-2008, 12:42 PM
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the amp it not putting out any voltage at all! the speaker wires on the rear speakers are saying .02-.03 volts. idk whats wrong. to tap them i just remove some of the plastic around the speaker wires then wrapped some wire around and soldered them. then i ran that wire to the loc.

i will hook up some rca outputs the amp to check that today. the amp looks fine, works fine, the digital dispay is fine, and fuses are good. if its bad what should i do with it?
Old 05-13-2008, 04:18 PM
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3 questions to ask yourself

1: )Are all my connections wired correctly? Is the polarity right? did I tap the right wires?

2: ) Are there shorts anywhere in the system?

3: ) What are my gains set to? They should be set as low as possible to avoid noise, but it's not bad to turn them up some to see if you're getting signal. connect your source, start audio playback, then slowly turn up the gain and see if you hear anything. Connecting the source AFTER turning up the gains could lead to blown speakers/eardrums.

Last edited by Socket7; 05-13-2008 at 04:34 PM.
Old 05-15-2008, 07:00 AM
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o.k. I figured it out. I went back and checked every thing and mad sure all my connections were tight and my polarity was correct. after i made sure everything was good i turned both gains on the LOC all the way up, i plug the speakers into the amp and tried to play music. nothing happened then i started playing with the (-) and (+) on the LOC. then it started to work. I guess you have to have them at different values... so its working now. the audio quality is not as good. it sounds like static in the line... and for some reason my multimeter is not measuring any voltage from the amp still thats y i figured something was wrong...
Old 05-15-2008, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by tbonespeed12
o.k. I figured it out. I went back and checked every thing and mad sure all my connections were tight and my polarity was correct. after i made sure everything was good i turned both gains on the LOC all the way up, i plug the speakers into the amp and tried to play music. nothing happened then i started playing with the (-) and (+) on the LOC. then it started to work. I guess you have to have them at different values... so its working now. the audio quality is not as good. it sounds like static in the line... and for some reason my multimeter is not measuring any voltage from the amp still thats y i figured something was wrong...
If you have to have them at different values, you probably have a + & - reversed. Try swapping the + & - on one set of inputs and see if it makes a difference. If so, figure out which one you had backwards & fix it for correct polarity.


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