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The clutch disc won't really affect the way your clutch pedal feels, the pressure plate makes all the difference. I have an exedy clutch/pressure plate with about 37% torque increase and it makes driving in traffic harder, pedal kicks back faster, harder to press etc...
Go with mazdaspeed products, or something with not that much torque increase.
You don't need the extreme version. The heavy duty street version will work just fine. The extreme version will make the clutch setup a bit stiffer, a little more unppleasant in everyday traffic, and is not needed. Also, many other places that are less expensive to get this than SR Motorsports.
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RB Fr/Rr Sway Bars, RB Fr Sway Bar Endlinks, RB Springs, RB Spark Plug Wires, RB Oil Cooler Screens, RB REVi Air Intake with Ram Air Duct, Centerforce Clutch, MS Fr. Tower Shock Bar, MS Rr Strut Bar, Goodridge SS Brakelines. Hawk HPS Brake Pads, SR Motor. Flywheel, Agency Power Pullies, RP Super Cat, Stern 19" ST 2 Touring Wheels, Falken FK452 Tires, Axial Flow Short Shifter, JIC Titanium Exhaust, Kyokugen Alum. Lugs, PWR Alum. Radiator, Greddy Oil Pan, & more
Decisions, decisions. Which one makes the most for mild street. Anyone have comments on the pros and cons of the MazdaSpeed, Racing Beat and SR Motorsport light flywheels??
I can attest to the quality and driveability of the SR/Indigo 9.75 lb. flywheel. It is a great unit and very easy to drive with. There are several conversations on the issue and I explained how flywheels effect driveability far less than people have been told. If my girlfriend, who has no performance driving experience, can drive my car so can anyone. My ACT Xtreme Duty pressure plate is a "bit" of overkill, even with nitrous.
Thanks for the info. I missed a chance yesterday to purchase an SR flywheel off ebay. The winning bid was $108. I should have just paid the $200 asking price and been happy.
The biggest bit of advice I could give re: flywheel swaps on the 8 is that it is far easier than you might think. When I did mine the most unique tool I used was a 36" long, 1/2 drive, breaker bar for the center nut and a 3/8" drive universal joint for the top bellhousing bolts. Other than that, from underneath, the 8 looked so familiar to me from my days of racing domestic cars that I didn't even use a manual or torque wrench. That was two years ago and I haven't had a problem. Broke Apex Seal published a guide around here somewhere that was a bit helpful in getting familiar with things. Maybe look around for it. If you cannot find it, hit me with a p.m., gimme a couple days and I can write a step-by-step for you.
FWIW, I have gone FI and I am running an ACT Heavy Duty clutch from Mazsport and a Racing Beat aluminum flywheel. No issues with it whatsoever. And, WELCOME BACK CHARLES!
Thx, Scud. Good to see all my friends are still here. I was looking forward to talking to all of you when I got out.
The thing I like about the ACT spec sheet is that it gives the torque rating instead of h.p. rating. It also gives rpm ratings. Generally, for our uses, when ACT mentions a torque rating multiply that by 1.5 and you have an approximate h.p. rating at 7,875 rpm's.
CRH
Last edited by Charles R. Hill; 01-02-2006 at 09:05 PM.
I don't know why Fanman didn't mention it but he runs someone elses who wasn't stated here. I can't remember I think Centerforce. I drove his car back to back with mine and I think his pedal was softer then mine. So if he hasn't had any problems turboed I think that might be the hot tip.
Dude, where have you been?
Linear Mode
