cpa7man

Hi there, pretty new to this forum.

Any one use a power bleeder on their RX-8. I used one for the first time the other night after many years of using them on my RX-7 race car. Also my first time to use it on an ABS car. So I might be missing something.

I pumped it up to 15 pounds, and bled the brakes, I saw a lot of bubbles, anyway kind of weird for a car that stopped on a dime the last time on the track. The only place where I got no bubbles is from the passenger side front.

For those who have never used one here is the link: http://www.motiveproducts.com/

tmak26b

I love mine. The only thing I hate is that I have multiple bottles thanks to the stupid multi cap setup they use

PPMouze

Which adaptor is the best fit for a 2004(not sure if it makes a difference)? I have seen the one for Ford 1107 and 1100 and 1109 mentioned when I did a search. But no definite answer.

ClarityMD

Bubbles could be coming from the actual gap between the bleeder screw and the caliper itself. Not sure though....no where in on the www did I find answers, but it makes sense, doesn't it?

I ended up lucking out and just kept bleeding until I saw no more bubbles. If one side in particular had bubbles for a long while (i'm talking 5+ minutes), I would keep the system pressurized, watch tv or do another brake line, then come back to it. Lucky for me, it was only one corner, and when I came back to it, there was a large accumulation of air, but after that, bubble free.

Brake feel is noticeably improved though compared to the 2-man depress/loosen/tighten/release cycle. I plan to recheck each line in a few weeks.

ClarityMD

ppmouze, talk to motive about your adapter. They'll recommend 2 different types, and probably ask you what type of design your fluid reservoir cap has.

cpa7man

Thanks for that, I'll be more patient and do something else while it bleeds. As far as cap I think I have a round generic one that fits many different ones.

PPMouze

I did contact Motive and they had me send a picture but the tech support person could not be 100% which one to use.

This is what he wrote:


"it's tough to be sure but I believe it is the 1118. If it doesn't fit we can figure something out."

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

I have been doing it one man style with just a hose, a catch container, and my foot for over 30+ years. Quite a few times in tech I've been asked how I get my pedal so firm .... I've tried it the Motive way, including assisting people who rave about how great it is, and I still don't get why anyone wants to make such a simple task so complicated. I also never was comfortable with. subjecting a hygroscopic fluid to a much larger volume of pressurized moist air rather than something dry and inert like Nitrogen.

and then it still seems that there are many people who still don't realize that the brake system will even gravity bleed all on it's own without anything extra

Just throwing that out there, to each their own ...

GeorgeH

iTrader: (2)

When you gravity feed, do you just adjust the nipple to allow a slow drip? Then give it maybe 5 minutes per corner or something along those lines?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

no, you open it up without restriction

Use a clear or translucent tube and run it up above the caliper several inches before running it down to a catch container, the vertical rise of the tube will stay full of fluid and acts as an air separator before the drop down to the catch container. I usually loop it up through a coil on the spring. The clear tube lets you see what is occurring. It is otherwise simple physics in action. I don't bleed that way, though sometimes after pump bleeding I will let it run on for a minute or two. Just mentioned it because most people don't realize that the high MC location and low caliper location results in gravity taking it's course if the bleeder screw is left open at the caliper. Pressure pushes fluid through the system faster. It does not add any other benefit like making your brake bleeding better as most people seem to think. You have either bled the air out properly or you haven't. That is the situation in a nutshell.

I use the same technique for one-man pedal-pump bleeding. I don't use speed-bleeder nipples, but I really like the silicone hose and catch-bag combo for collecting the waste brake fluid. Very convenient if you are bleeding in the field.

http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/c=UIxL...ose-Combo.html


.

cpa7man

I agree, the manual way works just as well, without the chance of contamination the Power Bleeder can cause. The Power Motive just makes it faster. I've been doing about 8 race weekends a year, I can prep, bleed and clean up in 15 minutes with the Power Motive. I use minimal pressure, and am super careful with the cleanliness of the unit.

ClarityMD

Cpa7man,What do you consider minimal pressure?

Teamrx, nice post. I will try it out some time. The key is the tube going up from the bleeder, that way air can float up and separate from the fluid.

cpa7man

I start at 15lb and let it bleed down, usually that's enough to bleed all 4 on my RX-7.

Now I started this thread because the RX-8 is a different animal with the ABS and all. My ABS is fixing to be taken off for now, and cockpit adjustment **** is being installed. In the class I race the ABS is not allowed, what a shame right! That said I'm assuming it will bleed like my RX-7. I think I had the RX-8 at 20lb on the Power Motive and was just getting bubbles seemed like. It did get better after a while.

gcthree

iTrader: (5)

Buy a set of Speedbleeders and their catch bag, and what used to be a difficult job becomes an absolutel breeze. I use them on all my vehicles and they work perfect every time.

Plus, the bag is reusable. I also have one on my clutch slave cylinder.

Worth every penny.

tmak26b

wait till they start leaking....

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

The ABS system is irrelevant. It bleeds exactly the same as any non-ABS system, which is where I learned my way many moons ago.

I bleed the clutch system the same way. Installed a new master cylinder several weeks ago, then had to replace the front calipers the other night. Essentially the entire system has been bled down and was then gone through with new fluid (Castrol SRF is my fluid of choice). Did the whole thing on my own as previously described. Other than my attempt at rebuilding a set of aftermarket brake calipers ending up with a big puddle of fluid on the floor due to me fubaring the new seal installation it was no problem.

cpa7man

Team, I'll try it your way next time, just gravity, no speed bleeders or anything. Interesting!

One of these days I need to come see your RX-8!

onewhippedpuppy

I love my Motive bleeder, with multiple caps I've probably done at least 10 different cars with it. It's been particularly nice when I have had Porsches, as they have two bleed screws per caliper. That would be fairly time consuming bleeding via the pedal or gravity times 8 bleed screws. With ATE Super Blue I've always yielded an improvement in brake feel.

cwatson

iTrader: (1)

Second this. $40 shipped for all four corners and the bleeder bag can't be beat. Don't forget to get the MC bleeder valve. I very much prefer the Speedbleeders over the two-person pump method, pressurizing a reservoir above the MC, or sucking from the calipers. I took longer to bleed the MC with the OEM valve than all four corners combined (not counting jacking and wheel removal).