maxchao

iTrader: (2)

So I broke my radiator today...and in need for a replacement. I figure if there is a 'better' aftermarket one out there that is autocross stock class legal I can give it a try. It seems like you can't get too much cooling.

Please share idea. Thanks!

maxchao

iTrader: (2)

Oh and it's an 04. I actually broke it twice. I broke the drain plug while putting it back...I didn't think the plastic would provide good seal and I went a bit too strong....and the plug broke with the threaded part left inside the radiator...then I broke the nipple while changing the reservoir. (I cared less since the plug broke...)

The OEM replacement is asking for $350!! I found many different replacement, plastic, aluminum, big and small, but I have no idea which one would fit autocross. The rule says:

L. Engine cooling radiators may be replaced with alternate parts subject
to the following restrictions:
1. Radiator core dimensions (width, height, thickness) must be no
smaller than the standard part.
2. Radiator must mount to OE radiator mounts.
3. Fluid capacity and dry weight of the radiator must be no less than
that of the standard part. Installation of an alternate radiator may
serve no other purpose (e.g. to allow a cold air intake passage).

Pretty hard to tell if any if autocross stock legal...and I don't know why people would want to use 'smaller' radiator for autocross...

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Why smaller? Because its lighter and some allows you to have more space.

The rule means you can use anything but it must not be smaller than oe and must mount to oe points .... which means pretty much everyhing out there

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Not sure where you got that description but for the SCCA Stock class only the Mazda original or replacement radiator is legal. A used one will be cheaper, a new one less likely to break over time.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

What you have listed above is the SCCA Street Prepared rule, not Stock. Stock is per my previous reply.

maxchao

iTrader: (2)

Ahh I apologize didn't notice that...I thought I was reading the stock section.

Well now I guess I will have to spend $350 for the new one....wow...How can I make sure I don't overtighten and break the plastic screw again? Do they make a metal one?

It's kinda beyond me that they use the plastic screw for high pressure system. And since there is no seal I don't know when I should stop tightening it...

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I had no problems with my old stock one ? ... stop using so much force on it ...

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

The drain screw does have a seal, it is thick and soft, and I never had any problem sensing when to stop tightening it. It's just a sealing screw, not a structural bolt so don't go to town on it. And 15 psig is hardly high pressure. If anything chance it leaking a bit and tighten it more if it drips, but I never had mine leak

There is a thread in the DIY forum where somebody was able to thread a replacement nipple for the reservoir connection when it broke. You won't have that problem with a new one unless you are grossly ham-fisted ....

I bet the original one can be fixed depending on how badly you broke the nipple. A drill and an easy-out would probably get that broken drain screw piece removed.


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maxchao

iTrader: (2)

Ahh...I think the seal just stick on the radiator for mine. I think I did a bit too hard on the screw...next time I will remember. So it's only 16 psi, much less than what I thought.

I think I will just get a replacement. I found this KOYO cooling one for $150:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...3-1834800.html

For $150 I would just want a piece of mind. Maybe I will tackle the broken one once it's out to see what I can do.

There is also a DIY thread about taking out the broken screw.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Ok, but technically it's not legal for the Stock class like you originally asked

maxchao

iTrader: (2)

I later found out that that radiator is not MT only, so it's not exact replica of the OEM part.

I just bought a replica off Ebay...I guess that probably won't count as autocross stock legal, but, I am nowhere near very competitive anyway. I just don't like people saying I'm faster because I have a part that's different.

Now I just hope that the Ebay one will come just like the OEM one, and will hold up fine for a few years..

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

that's your decision to make, but it needs to be stated so that whoever else is making the decision knows what it is they are buying

maxchao

iTrader: (2)

Right. It kinda breaks the car from being fully OEM now....which sucks...Hmmm...

twistedwankel

iTrader: (6)

No reason to put in a bigger than stock radiator unless you are building more power/heat. A 3 row aluminum radiator holds alot more fluid so weighs more and I cannot imagine anyone "protesting" a heavier part that has no effect on performance. I've autocrossed stock and mod for 25 years and never heard anyone being that ****. You don't have to put in a "factory" only radiator. All aftermarket OEM style parts are legal.

Also the 3 row aluminum radiator I put in my 04 came with a plastic drain plug. Took a week to work it in re-loosen and finger tight to stop the occassional drip. Like was mentioned don't use a tool to tighten it. Put a little vasoline or grease on threads before the first time using.

maxchao

iTrader: (2)

I hate that plastic screw. How can you finger tighten it? It sit flush to the drain hole. Plus I don't want to get grease and stuff into the coolant line. Not sure, I will find out when I get the new radiator. I also bought an additional screw just in case.

I think I will just tighten it a very little, then see if it leaks. Then tighten more until it stops. Gotta learn the 'feel'. They just just make it a bolt, would be so much easier. Better yet they should make a quick drain valve for it.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

there is a whole world full of opinions besides your own ... it either meets the rules or it doesn't; intent, personal feelings, personalities, etc. really have nothing to do with it.




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