Bolt-In AutoPower Bar for Future STX Car
#1
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Hampton, VA
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bolt-In AutoPower Bar for Future STX Car
So, I've been reading a lot trying to work out if it's worth it or not to get a bolt in Auto Power Roll bar to use as a harness bar. Next season I plan on running CS probably the entire season, but next winter I'd like to prep my car for STX. I'm too tall to stick with the stock seats and would like to go aftermarket so I'll sit lower, but then I'll need harnesses and that means I'll need a harness bar and a rollbar/cage seems to be the only way to accomplish this because of the lack of b-pillar.
So, for those of you who have or who have avoided getting a bolt-in roll bar, what do you think? I've done a lot of research already. Most people give the "just get a weld in cage", but that's not really going to be an option just yet for me. I could do the weld in auto power bar, but my car has a sun roof so once I strip the interior I'll have to replace it for better fitment. My plan is too eventually do a full cage, but that's going to be much much farther down the line and I'll probably be running STX for 2 to 3 seasons before that transformation even begins to take place.
My car is going to be primarily some street use, AutoX and some light track duty if that helps to know. The main 2 tracks I go to max out at around 90 mph for one and around 70 for the other, so not too fast (in comparisson to other cars and other tracks) but now that I have a car with a roof I'd like to get out to VIR or Summit Point some time since they aren't that far from me.
Thanks for any info you can throw my way.
So, for those of you who have or who have avoided getting a bolt-in roll bar, what do you think? I've done a lot of research already. Most people give the "just get a weld in cage", but that's not really going to be an option just yet for me. I could do the weld in auto power bar, but my car has a sun roof so once I strip the interior I'll have to replace it for better fitment. My plan is too eventually do a full cage, but that's going to be much much farther down the line and I'll probably be running STX for 2 to 3 seasons before that transformation even begins to take place.
My car is going to be primarily some street use, AutoX and some light track duty if that helps to know. The main 2 tracks I go to max out at around 90 mph for one and around 70 for the other, so not too fast (in comparisson to other cars and other tracks) but now that I have a car with a roof I'd like to get out to VIR or Summit Point some time since they aren't that far from me.
Thanks for any info you can throw my way.
#3
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Hampton, VA
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hmm. I'll have to look into it. I've got a few friends with bimmers that run STX and they installed aftermarket seats, but they may be STU. I've been running ES for 2 years so my class knowledge isn't very advanced.
#4
1% evil, 99% hot gas.
iTrader: (21)
2015 Tire Rack SCCA Solo Rules book, Page 81. From here.
Section 14.2
That minimum weight means you can knock ten pounds off the cloth seat weight, 30 lb off the leather seat. Double that if you replace both seats.
Section 14.2
B. The driver and front passenger seats may be replaced with the following restrictions. The seating surface must be fully upholstered. The top of the seat, or an attached headrest, may not be below the center of the driver’s head. The seat, including mounting hardware, must weigh at least 25 pounds and must be attached using the OE body mounting holes/studs. Additional mounting points may be added.
#5
1% evil, 99% hot gas.
iTrader: (21)
BTW, it sounds like your research hasn't included Step 1: Read the rules. That is the most important step. Time spent on that will save you lots of time and money later. For example, weld-in bar/cage is not legal in STX.
As for seat height, I'm 6'2" and have no problem. If you have leather seats trade them for cloth. Cost = $0.
If you can't find a trade try this: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...r-seat-205255/
As for seat height, I'm 6'2" and have no problem. If you have leather seats trade them for cloth. Cost = $0.
If you can't find a trade try this: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...r-seat-205255/
#6
Former Sponsor
keep in mind the weight being added back to the chassis for the 4 point roll bar to install said seats that are 20lbs lighter. In the end you'll be at least 50lbs heavier overall. Something to think about as well.
#8
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Hampton, VA
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
BTW, it sounds like your research hasn't included Step 1: Read the rules. That is the most important step. Time spent on that will save you lots of time and money later. For example, weld-in bar/cage is not legal in STX.
As for seat height, I'm 6'2" and have no problem. If you have leather seats trade them for cloth. Cost = $0.
If you can't find a trade try this: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...r-seat-205255/
As for seat height, I'm 6'2" and have no problem. If you have leather seats trade them for cloth. Cost = $0.
If you can't find a trade try this: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...r-seat-205255/
I'm 6'2" as well, with a long torso though. Top that with a sun roof and power seats, I'm just at the roof in a comfortable driving position. Cloth seats and the lowering mod have crossed my mind. I've only had the car a month so I'm still digging deep into the options and reading through the forum.
Thanks for all the input though. Cloth seats may be my go to next season to run CS. I'm taking it to an event in a few weeks to try it out and get a better feel for the car. Only so much I can feel out casually commuting to work and back.
#9
1% evil, 99% hot gas.
iTrader: (21)
.
#10
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Hampton, VA
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm in SE VA so it's just a local AutoX event. I'm hoping to get to Summit Point and VIR next year now that I have a car with a roof. I've been driving a Miata for the past 2 seasons and I can't fit under a roll bar without extensive modifications. No roll bar means no driving at a lot of tracks, which is understandable.
#11
Registered
Have you considered doing the "RX8 seat lowering" mod, and maybe combining that with a foamectomy?
I've done the seat lowering mod:
Gave me be an inch, and now I fit with my helmet. But i'd like to try a foamectomy to get even more.
I'm not sure you 100% need a roll bar if you go with a fixed back seat, although it's recommended because "you won't be able to duck out of the way if the roof collapses".
I have been doing track days and time trials with NASA and TrackDaze at Summit Point and VIR and autocross with CDC, so I hope to see you out there some day!
I've done the seat lowering mod:
Gave me be an inch, and now I fit with my helmet. But i'd like to try a foamectomy to get even more.
I'm not sure you 100% need a roll bar if you go with a fixed back seat, although it's recommended because "you won't be able to duck out of the way if the roof collapses".
I have been doing track days and time trials with NASA and TrackDaze at Summit Point and VIR and autocross with CDC, so I hope to see you out there some day!
The following users liked this post:
Dotty Ruckus (10-24-2021)
#12
Registered
iTrader: (1)
You don't automatically need harnesses for non-stock seats. Many people use stock belts with aftermarket seats, even fixed back seats. You'll likely need to feed the lap belts through the harness slots, or get a seat that doesn't need harness slots for the lap.
Also, if you're looking to get held in better, try using just the lap belt portion of a harness along with the stock belts and the stock seat.
Also, if you're looking to get held in better, try using just the lap belt portion of a harness along with the stock belts and the stock seat.
#13
1% evil, 99% hot gas.
iTrader: (21)
Or, years ago I also used to use just a random three-inch luggage strap horizontally around my seat and torso for autocrossing. Held me in tight without any modifications, disappeared into the glove box when not in use.
#14
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Hampton, VA
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Have you considered doing the "RX8 seat lowering" mod, and maybe combining that with a foamectomy?
I've done the seat lowering mod:
DIY: RX8 Extra Head and Leg Room (Seat Lowering) - YouTube
Gave me be an inch, and now I fit with my helmet. But i'd like to try a foamectomy to get even more.
I'm not sure you 100% need a roll bar if you go with a fixed back seat, although it's recommended because "you won't be able to duck out of the way if the roof collapses".
I have been doing track days and time trials with NASA and TrackDaze at Summit Point and VIR and autocross with CDC, so I hope to see you out there some day!
I've done the seat lowering mod:
DIY: RX8 Extra Head and Leg Room (Seat Lowering) - YouTube
Gave me be an inch, and now I fit with my helmet. But i'd like to try a foamectomy to get even more.
I'm not sure you 100% need a roll bar if you go with a fixed back seat, although it's recommended because "you won't be able to duck out of the way if the roof collapses".
I have been doing track days and time trials with NASA and TrackDaze at Summit Point and VIR and autocross with CDC, so I hope to see you out there some day!
You don't automatically need harnesses for non-stock seats. Many people use stock belts with aftermarket seats, even fixed back seats. You'll likely need to feed the lap belts through the harness slots, or get a seat that doesn't need harness slots for the lap.
Also, if you're looking to get held in better, try using just the lap belt portion of a harness along with the stock belts and the stock seat.
Also, if you're looking to get held in better, try using just the lap belt portion of a harness along with the stock belts and the stock seat.
With a different seat, I think the stock belts would hold me in enough for a while. The leather seats are better than my Miata's for grip, but due to the extra interior room in the 8, I can't really brace myself against the door or dash as easy.
Or use the jerk-the-belt trick to get the inertial reel to lock.
Or, years ago I also used to use just a random three-inch luggage strap horizontally around my seat and torso for autocrossing. Held me in tight without any modifications, disappeared into the glove box when not in use.
Or, years ago I also used to use just a random three-inch luggage strap horizontally around my seat and torso for autocrossing. Held me in tight without any modifications, disappeared into the glove box when not in use.
#16
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Hampton, VA
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks. Good to know. I'll keep an eye out for what aftermarket rails come with, other wise I'll keep the tunnel in minds.
#17
Registered
#18
Registered
You don't automatically need harnesses for non-stock seats. Many people use stock belts with aftermarket seats, even fixed back seats. You'll likely need to feed the lap belts through the harness slots, or get a seat that doesn't need harness slots for the lap.
Also, if you're looking to get held in better, try using just the lap belt portion of a harness along with the stock belts and the stock seat.
Also, if you're looking to get held in better, try using just the lap belt portion of a harness along with the stock belts and the stock seat.
When I ran STX, I did use an aftermarket fixed seat. At first I used a full harness with it. Eventually I decided that I wanted my hips pinned to the car, but my shoulders free. So I stopped using the shoulder belts and just used the lap belt. Autocross requires quite a bit of wheel-turning, so my advice is to keep your shoulders free.
#19
I've searched and searched for a simple bolt in harness bar as I run STX as well but have a fixed back seat on a sliding rail. I'm running a five point and would really feel more comfortable having it "properly" mounted. I use properly like that because from what I've read on here and in other places if your in any type of accident with a five or six point it should be attached to some point straight back. I currently have it bolted into the stock rear belt locations... you'd think with all of weekend racers out there someone would at least come up with a decent harness bar.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post