AIT reading 90° above ambient
03-13-2017, 04:44 PM
#2
Was that idling? It is very common heat soak to raise the intake temp closer to coolant temp when the car is sitting.
If it was 90 above ambient when you are driving you should check the IAT sensor when the vehicle is cold and compare to ambient temp cause that isn't normal
If it was 90 above ambient when you are driving you should check the IAT sensor when the vehicle is cold and compare to ambient temp cause that isn't normal
03-13-2017, 04:48 PM
#3
Yeah idling. One of my mafs triggers an ait circuit high every time I put it in but my oem maf doesn't. I'll check on cold start and while driving. It would explain the poor performance of the engine
03-13-2017, 04:54 PM
#5
Sorry I meant when I change them out. Denso one triggers it. I bought another used one because my maf reading is about 4.4g/s my idle it's low around 820 and my ltft is 10. Trying to put everything together maybe my maf wiring is bad
03-13-2017, 04:57 PM
#6
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
If you are having problems then you need to have someone who knows what they are looking at diagnose it.
Or try and follow the troubleshooting guide here:
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdar..._S01_0016.html
Or try and follow the troubleshooting guide here:
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdar..._S01_0016.html
03-13-2017, 06:58 PM
#12
Why are you not using an OEM MAF? That's the first thing I would do is go back to the OEM one...or a new OEM one. Aftermarket and rebuilt MAF units are notoriously flake
if you are getting an IAT high code I would expect the unit isn't working properly or isn't the correct unit
if you are getting an IAT high code I would expect the unit isn't working properly or isn't the correct unit
03-13-2017, 07:45 PM
#14
Low MAF + high LTFT at idle =vacuum leak. Gotta catch them all!
You ECU sees 4.4g/s of air, adds the corresponding amount of fuel and finds that the O2 sensor shows lean, so trims in more fuel to get back to stoich. If it has to add 10% more fuel, means you have 10% more air coming in somewhere that is not the MAF.
You ECU sees 4.4g/s of air, adds the corresponding amount of fuel and finds that the O2 sensor shows lean, so trims in more fuel to get back to stoich. If it has to add 10% more fuel, means you have 10% more air coming in somewhere that is not the MAF.
03-14-2017, 11:56 AM
#17
I understand what you're saying but I'm positive I didn't get screwed. He did my clutch too, was honest with everything. If He wanted to rebuild my engine then I'd be sketched out. Even though, I know compression is not at fault. Would you know where it's best to attach a smoke test? Brake booster? Or one off the intake lines?
03-14-2017, 01:12 PM
#18
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
I understand what you're saying but I'm positive I didn't get screwed. He did my clutch too, was honest with everything. If He wanted to rebuild my engine then I'd be sketched out. Even though, I know compression is not at fault. Would you know where it's best to attach a smoke test? Brake booster? Or one off the intake lines?
And the brake booster line would be fine.
03-14-2017, 01:20 PM
#20
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Well you do if you pay for a compression test and get actual results. That is the whole point, to get an idea of how healthy it is versus some wrench jockey telling you "it's fine".
03-15-2017, 09:11 AM
#23
Listen to 9k. I had a "Well known, and reliable" builder rebuild my motor, and compression isnt even passing with a slew of new parts. This guy had like 6-8 FD's and a few other nice cars there so i was like, ok. He has nice cars and everyone i talk to seems like he's a great builder, that was a huge load and should have seen the signs lol. Take it from me, someone who probably lost a few k, if they're not fully disclosing #'s etc. go somewhere that will! Good luck
03-19-2017, 10:39 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by Loki
Low MAF + high LTFT at idle =vacuum leak. Gotta catch them all!
You ECU sees 4.4g/s of air, adds the corresponding amount of fuel and finds that the O2 sensor shows lean, so trims in more fuel to get back to stoich. If it has to add 10% more fuel, means you have 10% more air coming in somewhere that is not the MAF.
You ECU sees 4.4g/s of air, adds the corresponding amount of fuel and finds that the O2 sensor shows lean, so trims in more fuel to get back to stoich. If it has to add 10% more fuel, means you have 10% more air coming in somewhere that is not the MAF.
03-19-2017, 11:04 PM
#25
High MAF makes no sense, the car shouldn't be pumping more air than fits into it at a given RPM. So either the MAF is crazy or somebody has been messing with the MAF voltage to airflow conversion. Down around idle, it would take a significant voltage difference to produce a slight airflow difference, so I'm leaning toward the latter. Do you have actual voltage and airflow data?