RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

$1,212 billed to insurance. He agreed that he can just swap the housing over, so my gears are safe. My bushings may or may not be able to be saved, he was non-commital until the diff is out of the car.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

And I forgot to update again. Diff repair was completed to my satisfaction. They saved my gears, the bushings, detailed the car, and gave me the entire working end of the 4.1 MSM diff that they pulled the housing from. Holding on to it as a spare, unless someone on the MSM forums blows theirs and wants to buy it before i ever need it (which is not likely to ever come about)

Today I had my rear wheel bearings replaced. The left one was starting to fail, which is rare for Miatas, and when they fail they tend to come with explanations such as "LS powered" or "over 2.0 lateral Gs regularly". My only guess is that the diff problem somehow overstressed it. It's not impossible. The fronts fail regularly for tracked Miatas, which is one reason i'm planning on blueprinted hub replacements next year. 20% more than OEM hubs for 3 times the durability.

I also rewired my LS ignition, as I was running into an ignition cut problem that wasn't commanded by the ECU. Periodic stumbles, and a few times recently complete ignition shut down for 5+ seconds while on the highway. AFR gauge showed I was still going rich or lean with throttle usage, which is what told me it was an ignition failure. Well, I ended up determining that it must have been because of cheap failing quick disconnects that I had used when I was testing the Fab9 coil on plug kit, to make swapping easier. I hadn't gone back and rewired everything, and I suspect that the quick disconnects were failing. So they are all gone now, everything properly soldered, heat shrunk, and shielded. Also remounted the coils, now bolted directly to the upper side of the wheel well bulge, rather than the vibration-prone tray i had fashioned. Less "pretty", but far more stable and secure. Test firing the engine showed a much faster start than I have been dealing with as well. I will find out tomorrow if I solved the problem.

Also going in for a clutch replacement next Tuesday. This one is nearing 50,000 miles (about the expected lifespan for it), and it is slipping at peak torque, 7psi, and high gear. With this cold, even the lowest MBC setting is giving me ~8psi.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

Rear wheel bearing failure isn't rare. I've had to replace all four of my bearings. Three because they started making noise under cornering and the last one I did it just because. Also all new hubs. Pretty sure they were all original from 1994.

What clutch setup are you going with?
Should do a lightweight flywheel while you're at it, feels great on track.

WaitingforFI

iTrader: (1)

Brutal;
Miata Horror Crash Shows What Can Go Wrong Even In Low-Level Racing

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Hmm, very limited search results on rears, vs tons for front wheel bearings.

Same clutch I had before, FM's level 1. OEM doesn't have enough torque capacity, and my engine doesn't have the strength to get to the level 1's torque limit.

I already have the 10.3lb flywheel. It's my 2nd Miata with it. It does indeed make a difference.

Yeah, nasty. I have zero desire to ever do wheel to wheel racing. Going for TT next year, and then start working on headed toward what really appeals to me. The one race I want to do at least once is Targa Newfoundland. That appeals to me a lot. Not all rally appeals to me, but that kind does.

And even for the final HPDE and then TT next year, my plans are going to be to get a salvage 2009-2014 Miata and built it for NASA TTD. Full safety equipment. I'll easily spend more on the safety gear than any of the performance gear. FIA cage, window nets, arm restraints, hans, fire suppression, fuel cell, etc... It will take me a while to fully build up, but it will have the cage, window nets, and arm restraints before it hits the track even for HPDE.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

There are plenty of other examples, of low level racing problems too, that are probably a bigger argument against doing wheel to wheel. For example:
Watch This Racing ******* Nearly Kill One Of His Competitors

And:
(it's an advertisement of Hans, but is also an advertisement on why to avoid racing with someone that would be willing to do that)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...uzMaSsPtw#t=59

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I would be in jail if I was that Renault owner. Holy crap.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The MSM's engine may be wounded ...


It almost sounds like a very faint main bearing tap. Sound wasn't there 2 days ago, was there yesterday, still full on oil with 2,200 miles on it, no high lateral g that might indicate there was an oil starvation, and nothing above 6,000rpm or 8psi. Can't hear it from the engine bay or the top of the engine, can only slightly hear it from the driver's seat with the windows up and hard top on, and can only hear it under ~1,200rpm. In time with revs, sounds like one cylinder from the rate of the noise.

Did an oil change already to inspect for debris and in case it was just an oil breakdown problem (Mobile1 20w50 was in there, 0w40 now), no noise change afterwards, no metal on the magnetic plug. Cutting open the oil filter today to see if there is any metal in there. Also going to do a compression test to see if there are any low cylinders that might suggest a bent rod.

I hope i'm just worrying over nothing, but... that noise wasn't there before.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Good Luck. You might want to consider a leak down test as well.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, agreed. If I don't find any obvious problem with the stuff i can do in my garage, then i'll be swinging by the shop that does the work I can't and having them see if they can find it.

Filter looks good. No metal particles visible anywhere through it. Not even the very fine grained stuff.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

best way to tell is to drop the pan and get a sample, shine some light and look for particles. You could also send a sample out if you are in no rush.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

(ignore the arrow, someone else was editing the pic for a stiffness question)


The bottom part of the pan that is visible there is only about 2/3rds of the total pan, the rest is a shallower section extending forward from there. You have to separate the subframe from the engine (which the engine mounts are on the subframe) to get any sort of clearance on the forward bolts, much less getting the pan out.

I had at least 15 minutes of driving with this noise, possibly as much as 3 hours if I hadn't noticed it before leaving for work yesterday morning. Even the 15 minutes, I'd think that would be enough circulation to get metal up in the filter and/or on the magnetic drain plug if there was any in the filter.

But yeah, may have to pull a sample of the current fresh oil after a bunch of driving if nothing is found/conclusive.

I hate piston engines.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Dude that sucks, :/ Just to get the damn pan out.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

It was just pointed out to me elsewhere that I DID just rewire the ignition the day before I noticed the noise. It's possible that it is an electrical tapping noise and not a mechanical one, or even a combustion tap.

Which would be a big relief. Although AFRs are still stable and the engine is still as smooth as it has always been.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

Sure it's not just a bit of HLA noise? Or did the MSM have solid lifters. I forget.

If I shut down my Miata right after a track session when it is still hot, it sounds like rod knock city when I start it up until I beat on it again. Or if the oil starts getting a bit old it'll start doing it. Some of them the HLA's will get plugged a bit and there's nothing you can do about the noise short of pulling them apart and cleaning them out.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

2005 has the solid "HLAs". That is an NA series problem.

And i hear it exactly the same when cold as when hot, idling after driving and idling in the garage warming up. No volume change.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I think i figured out what it is. I mounted the LS2 coils directly to the fender, and I think one of them is transmitting a 'tap' from the internal arcing that they do. You can feel them all pulsing slightly when the engine is on and you touch them, and one of the coils is pulsing stronger than the other 3. Going to test the theory tomorrow by seeing if the sound goes away with them just laying on a mat above the engine instead of bolted anywhere.

7 hours of driving today and yesterday, zero problems. If this was a bearing problem, i'd believe something would have given up.

Compression is within 3psi of each other on all 4 cylinders, ~123psi if I were to believe my cheap compression gauge. The stability of the numbers is the main point I concern myself with.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

Solid HLA is an oxymoron.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I haven't updated here in a bit. Engine isn't blown...yet.

Since I have my 8 back, I'm leaning further and further toward turning the MSM into a full track car and taking it off the road completely at some point.

This is the rough list of what is needed to turn it into a class-competitive (NASA TTB) car that can reliably handle the load:

- Built engine
- Cage
- Fire suppression
- race seats
- harnesses
- hans
- blueprinted front hubs
- brake ducting
- underbody aero and small splitter
- gut all interior trim and electronics
- remove entire AC system
- remove rest of emissions gear
- upgrade to 15x9 wheels
- v-mount radiator
- more hood extraction
- engine oil cooler
- transmission oil cooler
- diff oil cooler
- turbo hardware bracing
- remove all airbag hardware, replace steering wheel
- power steering cooler
- better coilovers (fatcat would be my pick)
- revert to OEM sways (for points, stiffer springs to compensate)
- replace all suspension bushings with poly
- competition motor mounts
- full 3" exhaust



However, with the built engine being the lions share of the cost for this stuff (probably around $10k total counting shipping and pulling/installing costs of the smaller stuff), there is a good case for choosing a different direction. For example an NC could have me competitive for around $10k in TTD, including the car (assuming salvage from an auction).

Then a comment from 200.mph got me thinking longer, then discussing it with my friend and my tuner. I could sell the current block, turbo hardware, engine related upgrades, Hydra ECU, wiring harness, factory ECU, etc... for around $8k-$9k without much trouble. Compared to spending nearly $10k on the built engine, I'd be at about $18,000 ahead to swap something else in.

An LSx is the obvious choice for a whole lot of people, but not me. $18,000 could get me an N/A PP 13B swap, probably with cash left over. At ~220whp relatively easy to reach given the budget (http://www.rx7club.com/attachments/t...hp-figures.jpg), ECU, etc... I could cut weight down to the 2,300lb level for TTB reasonably as well. Not being a street car, much of the normal swap complication would be gone. The 13b can mate to the Miata's transmission if you swap over the bellhousing from an FC and you machine down the input shaft. The motor mounts are in similar locations and easily handled. No suspension or steering changes needed. Several good ECU options. Exhaust can be dumped without any fuss (or restrictor)

I'd sure enjoy the engine a whole lot more. I'd lose around 100lbs from the nose of the car on the swap alone (BP block is iron). Easier to drive. Less to fail.


It's got a whole ton of appeal, and it IS something I've been wanting to do for years. A Renny is possible, but the electronics involved would add complication and cost, without much benefit for a race-only application.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

brap brap+better shifter/trans=goodness

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I could go higher in the power of course... a lot higher: PERIPHERAL PORT

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Or MAZMART - Serving The Mazda Community Since 1980. 20B 3 Rotor Engine

More money of course...

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

Do et

Gravey

iTrader: (3)

20B all the things!!!!


Don't forget to double flywheel that bitch!

WaitingforFI

iTrader: (1)

Pearl,
Have you ever thought of something like this: Exomotive - US Manufacturer of Exocars & Kit Cars | Exocet ??