They don't have a bawling smiley, so the sad one will have to do... :( I'm going out of town tomorrow morning and wanted to wash my baby up before I went so the dirt from the rain (yes, it does occasionaly rain in San Diego) wouldn't be getting baked on for 6 days, and I found not 1, but 2 rock chips! One is on the passenger-side fender about 6" above the headlight (a very small chip, but a very prominent place) and the other one is on the driver-side about 2" under the headlight. I guess I'll be one of the first to buy the bra. I'm not too keen on the paint-protectant film. I don't like the idea of not being able to polish the paint and, though I haven't seen it in person, I can't imagine that it looks anywhere as good as that freshly Zaino'd shine. Anyway, I don't think there's anything I can do about the chips except pout. Any miracle's out there?

Rotor.......your not alone. I have a small chip also on the fender about 1 inch above the headlight. It is very small but....it WILL be getting fixed.

How you ask? I actually have some experience fixing these little buggers. Here in New Englang we have brutal winters where they dump thousands of tons of sand on the road each winter. Leads to lots of chips.

First I ordered the Mazda touchup paint from Trussville. I havent recieved it yet but, if it comes with a tiny brush on the cap.....DONT use it. never apply touch up with a brush...no matter how small the brush is. The key to it looking good is not to get any touch up paint around the tiny crater caused by the stone. depending on what the chip looks like (post a pic ...Macro is best) will determine what you use to put the paint on. In most cases a match stick....the soft ones in the book....will suffice. You tear the match out from the book and dip the torn end into the paint. The reason you use the match instead of the brush, is that the brush tends to "spread" when you are lightly dabbing the damaged area. The match tends to go where you want it to rather than where you dont.

1. with a small amount of paint on the matchstick, dab once on the stone chip.

2. wait a few minutes until the paint dries to apply more.

3. layer your paint. go thin....let dry....then another dab.

4. build up slowly. maybe take a couple days to complete it. TAKE YOUR TIME.

4. Use some "clear coat compound" to smooth out any spot to blend old and new paint.

Chances are you will alway be able to tell its there. If you look very closely. However this method will make it much better to deal with.

I am taking an even more conservative approach to my stone chip. I will be using the sharp end if a sewing needle to color in my chip. It will take longer but I will be sure I get paint where I want it. The pin method can work better than you think because paint will accurately be directed to the center of the paint chip to color it in.

I hope this helps....

Thanks a ton Gyro! Very descriptive. I'm just so nervous/hesitant to do this myself, but I think I may go with the sewing needle as well. The chips are tiny (about 1.5x the size of the point of a standard office staple to give you an idea). I've used touchup paint before, but never with very good results. Your technique sounds like it should help a lot though.

Could claybaring the area (and the rest of the car too I suppose) a week or so after applying the touchup paint help smooth the edges of the chip out? I don't mind knowing that the chip is there myself as long as it doesn't stand out and I can still polish the car nicely and not have people say "what the hell happened here?"

I had a heart attack myself this morning when I discovered the door to the garage ajar. Sure enough, there were cat hairs on the hood and a very small chip on the driver's side fender. Ooooh...anyone got any good cat recipes?

If you want to know how clear bra looks on your RX-8. Look
at the patches of it, in front of your rear wheels. It's on our
cars allready.

... A really ... mean ... dog.

I hate cats

I have hear of a chip repair company called Langka. Go to there web sight at www.lyngka.com for information. Some car people say this is the best system.:)

I have hear of a chip repair company called Langka. Go to there web sight at www.lyngka.com for information. Some car people say this is the best system.:)

I have 8+ chips in my yellow 8 after only 3 weeks. They show from a mile away. I looked at a well done clear bra on a 911TT. It looked A LOT better than random rock chips. I'd rather not have either - but since we seem to have 3 (bad) choices: Rock chips, Standard bra, or Clear bra, I will choose the clear bra. A professionally installed clear bra is very shiney and I could only see a seam at the hood mid-point - not very noticeable at all.. The material is'nt nearly as thick as the Mazda film on the rear fender. I hope it works - all in all it will be about $700 or so. Still cheaper and better looking than constantly repairing chips.

Originally posted by 1stRX8
I have 8+ chips in my yellow 8 after only 3 weeks. They show from a mile away. I looked at a well done clear bra on a 911TT. It looked A LOT better than random rock chips. I'd rather not have either - but since we seem to have 3 (bad) choices: Rock chips, Standard bra, or Clear bra, I will choose the clear bra. A professionally installed clear bra is very shiney and I could only see a seam at the hood mid-point - not very noticeable at all.. The material is'nt nearly as thick as the Mazda film on the rear fender. I hope it works - all in all it will be about $700 or so. Still cheaper and better looking than constantly repairing chips.

Had the full ClearBra (Hood, front end, mirrors, headlights, and foglights) put on my yellow one today ($600, installed) by the only guy who is allowed to tint my cars (since 1983), for the reasons stated by 1stRX8.

Pics tomorrow, but I LOVE it. From 3 feet away, invisible - and from within 3 feet you can only see the line on the hood if you know exactly where to look. Wonderful stuff.

Originally posted by tpryor
Had the full ClearBra (Hood, front end, mirrors, headlights, and foglights) put on my yellow one today ($600, installed) by the only guy who is allowed to tint my cars (since 1983), for the reasons stated by 1stRX8.

Pics tomorrow, but I LOVE it. From 3 feet away, invisible - and from within 3 feet you can only see the line on the hood if you know exactly where to look. Wonderful stuff.

Yup, I had the clear bra done a couple of weeks ago, but I paid a little more :mad:

But I am very satisfied with the results. I have been hit by gravel noticable enough to get my attention, and so far, all is well with paint.

I really recommend the clear bra.

I've got 3 chips in hood

its like getting your brand new white shoes stepped on

the way i see it, getting your first chip is like part of the break-in period. or like a baptism.:)

such is life....

santino

Just a little bump for this thread... I have 3 chips that I attempted to fill in using the tiny brushy thing that comes with the paint. It looks like ass, Going to remove it and start again using the method described above.

Polak, can we make this a sticky and rename it by any chance?... since it seems our 8's are prone to chips?

Lufa
Use Langka to remove unwated touch up paint. It comes right up. As for fixing the chip. It is very simple.
1- Clean the area well
2- glue a 600 grid paper on top of the eraser of a pencil .
3- Rough up the bottom of the chip to allow paint to stick
4- Using a very tiny brush, the one you buy from art stores, or using a match fill the pit slowly. allow 15 minutes between applications, until you get the paint to raise above surrounding.
5- Allow paint to cure for several days, perhaps a week
6- Using a sanding block (grit 3000....It will not scratch you car finish), sand the raised paint area until it blends with the rest of the paint. Run your fingers over the chip, and keep sanding until you can not feel it.
7- At the point the area will look dull. Use 3M rubbing compound, and buff the area lightly. It will shine right up, and you will not be able to see the chip anymore unless you look really close.
8- For some reason if you do not like it, use Langka to remove the paint and start over. I assure you it is the best way to fix the chips. There is no risk of damaging your paint finish.

Good luck

Mark

One more thing ...soak the sanding block in water overnight before you use. And use a spray bottle with soap, and spray the soapy water on the area you are sanding for lubrication.

Mark

Cool thanks mqandil... guess I need to hit the store for some supplies.

Another easy way to apply small amounts of paint is to use a toothpick. I learned this while building models in my younger years. Mazda sent me a touch up kit with my "Welcome to Mazda" package. Luckily I haven't had to use it yet, but when I do, and I know I will, there's no way I'll use that big ass brush that comes on the lid.

Just picked up my new 8 Saturday. Yay!

With all the helpful info posted here, I'm thinking I don't need/want the clear bra. If I did want to get it, though, does anyone know of anyplace in the MD/VA area that does a good job for a decent price on this? I'm thinking of getting it from the dealer b/c the girl who sells aftermarket parts/treatments is so hot (at least the dealers know who they're catering to), but I'd appreciate any info anyone else has. One other thing, does Mazda send you the touch-up paint, or do you have to order it?

I have a couple of hairline scratches on my 8. Since it's black, the scratches are very visible. Is it worth touching up, or would I risk of messing it? Could I try to use a very thin permanent maker felt pen instead?

Welcome to the club, RotorMotor. Apparently our paint jobs are just that soft (my service manager agrees) b/c I used to drive a Chevy Blazer and never got a single paint chip. In two months, I've accumulated quite a few. I wonder if that would also partly explain the pervasive orange peel problem...?

But good advice, Gyro. Where can I get clear coat compound?

Road chips happen.

Clear bra helps prevent it. It appears to be overpriced, but is a necessity if you do a lot of freeway driving. I will be getting it before too long.

Some touch up paints come with the brush inside the cap AND what liiks like a ball point pen on the cap as well. Is the "pen" equivalent to the match or toothpick?

on my last car
I had the front bumper repainted every six months or so because I didn't want a clear bra

on my 8 I use the touch up paint from mazda and a toothpick

true, rock chips happens.

but if you want to reduce the amount you get, dont follow too closely.

when Im on the highway, I am constantly looking for "clean air" and f' in trucks!

just my own habits, which are somewhat effective

Hey guys, I am applying my clear front end bra today, I will post pics tommorrow with DIY instructions.

I have done this on an Audi S4, (black) and it is amazing how it protects the paint. Do a search for my other thread, if there is any interest for others to have this, I have a connection that can get us a great deal.

Oh, and you can still wax the car like normal, the wax build up around the edges of the clear film can be rubbed away pretty easily. :)

I got a clear bra put on my RX-8 too. I is an absolute lifesaver. Mine was made by Armor Glove and put on at a local detailer/distrubuter. Cost me $350 installed for the full front bumper and rear bumper (the part right under the trunk lid so when you lean into the trunk you don't scratch the bumper). Best thing you can do for peace of mind concerning rock chips on the bumper

I got a clear bra put on my RX-8 too.
Any photos?

I recently noticed that people "curb the shoulder" when they're racing cars they know they can't beat. When this happens they wind up kicking up all sorts of debris into the car that is coming up hard on them. I saw this happen three times already..luckily never to me. Who came up with this idea? Seems like for all "street racers" it is a high price to pay for your ego.

BTW: Yesterday I missed getting hit by a sword by about 5 feet on 287 in NJ. I'm not shitting you...that could have created quite the chip. Watch out for rocks and swords.

dan gi only have axe's coming at me on the highway...bet a sword woudl hurt..it woudl pierce more:D

This (http://www.bettercarcare.com/articles.php?articleId=27) is a good article on repairing paint chips.

I don't know if it is just the yellow touch up paint from Mazda, but it sucks.

I used it for a scratch on my roof and a rock chip on my fender. In both areas it turned white.

I shook up the paint very well, used a toothpick to put on the smallest amount I could which was still a good size drop. For the rock chip the blob filled the chip fairly well, but a month later it turned white in color.

The Mazda stuff is very hard to use. I have two bottles of the stuff and both dry extremely fast and becomes very stringy quickly. It is nearly impossible to put on a tiny dab because it will dry out before you can make it to the car's surface. I don't know if a thinner would help in the application process, but I don't really care. If the stuff is going to turn white in the long run, then I obviously don't want to use it.

I ordered a different brand from another company. I will let you know how it works

Don't forget for really small pits try rubbing compound first. It works really well.

-Mr. Wigggles

its not just the yellow
my red touch up seems to turn dark or black

use a toothpick...or a hat pin....it take more time....but it work's the best.

What more can an 8 love want, something that takes time, looks the best, and last!!

...like our 0-60 times

Well, ok then. Has any one tried using the Langka kit? And Lufa, how did your chip repair turn out? I know you have a TiGrey, have you noticed any discolorization? I have ordered the Langka kit, and will attempt it this weekend - we're supposed to get another layer of snow around these parts, so I'm not going anywhere:(
I'll post after I do the Langka deed...

Lufa
Use Langka to remove unwated touch up paint. It comes right up. As for fixing the chip. It is very simple.
1- Clean the area well
2- glue a 600 grid paper on top of the eraser of a pencil .
3- Rough up the bottom of the chip to allow paint to stick
4- Using a very tiny brush, the one you buy from art stores, or using a match fill the pit slowly. allow 15 minutes between applications, until you get the paint to raise above surrounding.
5- Allow paint to cure for several days, perhaps a week
6- Using a sanding block (grit 3000....It will not scratch you car finish), sand the raised paint area until it blends with the rest of the paint. Run your fingers over the chip, and keep sanding until you can not feel it.
7- At the point the area will look dull. Use 3M rubbing compound, and buff the area lightly. It will shine right up, and you will not be able to see the chip anymore unless you look really close.
8- For some reason if you do not like it, use Langka to remove the paint and start over. I assure you it is the best way to fix the chips. There is no risk of damaging your paint finish.

Good luck

Mark

I cannot find 3000 grit sandpaper anywhere. Would a claybar work to smooth it out after letting the touch up paint dry for a week. I hear that detailing guys use clay bars to smooth out overspray.

Detailers use clay bars to *remove* the overspray. The overspray adhers to the clay better than the paint it is sitting on.

I dont think the clay bar contains enough abrasive to take off the top of the touch up paint. Wet sanding with 2000 grit sandpaper as described above will do it. Just be gentle and follow the steps outlined above. Good luck.

:eek: I don't know if it is just the yellow touch up paint from Mazda, but it sucks.

I used it for a scratch on my roof and a rock chip on my fender. In both areas it turned white.

I shook up the paint very well, used a toothpick to put on the smallest amount I could which was still a good size drop. For the rock chip the blob filled the chip fairly well, but a month later it turned white in color.

The Mazda stuff is very hard to use. I have two bottles of the stuff and both dry extremely fast and becomes very stringy quickly. It is nearly impossible to put on a tiny dab because it will dry out before you can make it to the car's surface. I don't know if a thinner would help in the application process, but I don't really care. If the stuff is going to turn white in the long run, then I obviously don't want to use it.

I ordered a different brand from another company. I will let you know how it works

Don't forget for really small pits try rubbing compound first. It works really well.

-Mr. WiggglesI've used Mazda's yellow touchup paint on my 8 since last Fall. I agree it dries/goes stringy very quickly, but mine didn't turn white and hasn't turned white in the 6 months or so it's been on the car.

Must be all those oil refinery explosions in Houston, they must put some nasty fumes in the air!

toothpicks work best do the edge with the point, snap it in half and use the thicker part to fill in the body of it.

:eek: I've used Mazda's yellow touchup paint on my 8 since last Fall. I agree it dries/goes stringy very quickly, but mine didn't turn white and hasn't turned white in the 6 months or so it's been on the car.

Must be all those oil refinery explosions in Houston, they must put some nasty fumes in the air!

Despite popular belief, the air quality in Houston is not that bad and MUCH better than many parts of California.

Anyway, I used http://www.automotivetouchup.com/touch_up_paint.asp to get my yellow this time and it looks much better and was much easier to apply.

They also have these super nifty micro-dabbers that work much better than toothpicks.

-Mr. Wigggles

Just wanted to add my 2 cents.....I work for a Mercedes-Benz Dealership and we send our cars to the bodyshop for rock chips. I went over to check out how they fix it due to curiosity one day. They use an airbrush and wipe off the excess. It looks flawless. It's not cheap, but it looks incredible. I'm gonna have them do my Sunlight Silver 8 once a year!

thats cool

can you get a price quote
I could have mercedes do mine then also

do you people get that roughened surface? i hope i'm making sense here, but i get it mostly on the side skirts. and if so, what do you do about it?

this is all you will ever need, easy DIY:

http://www.langka.com/

Does Anyone Have A Clear Bra? How Does It Look? What Are The Advantages And Disadvantages?

I have used the Mazda touch up paint on a few chips to the front bumper and like most think the paint SUCKS. It needs about four or five applications with the cut end of a toothpick or a soft match to cover the chip in the black plastic bumper. The next chip will get some of my can of red rust destroyer primer first as my RX8 is red. That may help.

As for the touch-up paint bump. Go to your friendly neighbourhood Walmart and buy the 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper and the 3M scratch remover. In Canada, that will cost you a whopping 10 bucks in total. Give the bump or in fact any scratch in your plastic lenses or paint a little wet rub. I will look white and cloudy at this point. Ofcourse don't go crazy and rub off the clear coat. Then a little 3M scratch remover (NOT rubbing compound!!!) on a cloth, a little rubbing and it's gone. The 3M scratch remover is great stuff. It will feel a little gritty but breaks down real fast to give a smooth finish. It may require 3 or 4 times with the 3M to get it just right. A little wax and it's almost invisible.

I hope this cheap fix helps.

Does anyone in the Detroit, Michigan area know where I can pick up a bottle? I didn't get one when I purchased my 8 in 03 and want to clean up a couple of chips. Dealerships don't have any and none around in auto supply stores. Roxi

Check here to see if this is the stuff. 3M scratch remover online its 7.49 per 8 oz bottle, no idea how much shipping is on it. www.carbonandchrome.com/prod-0031748.html

Ramses

Call Rosenthal Mazda at 1-800-347-3493. They will get you some touch up paint.

its worth repeating;

the one, the only, the best ... (http://www.langka.com/)

So, you're saying that Langka is the best fix huh?

I'll have to try it out then. I have a few chips in my 04.

Thanks Team.





its worth repeating;

the one, the only, the best ... (http://www.langka.com/)

So, you're saying that Langka is the best fix huh?

I'll have to try it out then. I have a few chips in my 04.

Thanks Team.

Thanks for resurrecting this thread. I'd seen it before, but missed a couple of the hyperlinks. One of these days---I'll repair the numerous chips on my venerable TG-- 54,000 vicious Interstate miles.

FWIW i think the touchup paint works very well...

http://208.219.69.31/scratch1.jpg

http://208.219.69.31/fixed.jpg

its worth repeating;

the one, the only, the best ... (http://www.langka.com/)


Anybody have experience with Langka and the Mazda touch up paint? How long to let it dry before trying to smooth it out? The Langka site says that the time varies for different paints.

Thanks

I bought the Langka kit for my MX-3 a couple years ago. The Mazda Blaze Red paint was just about the softest paint EVER used on a car (not to mention it faded so badly unless you kept it waxed every couple weeks), and after years of driving the front end was riddled with paint chips.

Anyway, the Langka kit really works. I was concerned that it would take off the existing paint, but it really does only remove the touch-up paint, leaving it flush with the rim of the chip. I had too many chips on the hood to count and while you could still see the touchups up close, it looked so much better with the Langka than the ugly, sloppy "overpainting" that was caused by the brush. I only had to wait 2 hours at the most for the Mazda paint to dry enough to re-apply.

I can't find my old kit, so I think I'll be ordering a new one. I found two deep stone chips on my driver's side fender that looks horrible and I need to fix them ASAP.


Anybody have experience with Langka and the Mazda touch up paint? How long to let it dry before trying to smooth it out? The Langka site says that the time varies for different paints.

Thanks

I finally did buy the "Blob Eliminator" from Langka and I have to say, it works quite well. I need to pick up a small artists paint brush to apply the paint better. (the toothpick isn't working out for me for some reason)

I just got a small 2 oz bottle and so far I think this will last me a few years.

Where did you get your touch up paint?

I got the touch up paint from the dealership, you might be able to find it at Pepboys, just get your paint code and take a look at what they got.



Where did you get your touch up paint?

I think that the prep work before the actual application of the color is what seems to be lacking. Any one know what mazda uses as a base coat? Grey, white, etc... also is a color sprayed on the base before the color (silver before a metallic). Trying to apply any color on a black surface like the yellow bumper is never going to work. Applying the yellow after a white, silver, or grey base coat might. The Metallic Blue (mine), and the Green must be a nightmare!

i think the difficulty isn't just that the touch-up paint is hard to use, but that the process itself is time-consuming and kind of a pain in the ass- esp since it is difficult to get it to look right.

a good friend of mine once told me that the authorized body shop of his lexus dealer does "touch-up packages." in other words, for a pre-set price they will clean up ALL the minor nicks, scratches, and crap on your car in one shot. and, you get your car back in just a day or two.

have any of u guys heard of similar packages from other body shops?

since, i've joined the ranks of having rock chips, i think i'm going to look into having these repairs taken care of professionally and then spend the $125 on an rx-8 car bra for when i'm cruising the canyons with our club members and can do so without worrying.

on a side note, a friend of mine who used to work in the aircraft parts/ materials industry told me that they actually do make paints that are virtually scratch-resistant. but, even tho car companies know about these high-grade paints, they refuse to use them because (a) they cost too much and (b) they want to cultivate viable market for body repair. after all, if a car never broke down in any way, there's less $ to be made. <shrugs> such is the way of life i guess...

would appreciate if anyone w/ experience w/ touch-up packages from body shops in the Los Angeles area PM me and give me some feedback/ recommendations.

cheers!

true, rock chips happens.

but if you want to reduce the amount you get, dont follow too closely.

when Im on the highway, I am constantly looking for "clean air" and f' in trucks!

just my own habits, which are somewhat effective

I do the same thing.
Usually 8-12 feet between me & the ahole in front of me that doesn't even have flaps.
Unless I'm overtaking them that is. :yelrotflm

what was the code for the paint from mazda? thanks

Hey rotormotor, off subject real quick. Do you ever go to any of the local meets for RX8 owners? I too live in San Diego, and I am going to be back home the 13th if everything goes well. I am in Iraq right now, but if you do go let me know. I am looking for other 8 owners in the area.

Hi,
I am a new member in here. I have the Invisible bra on my RX8. Works great!!!!! Sometimes it also good to pay liitle bit more for the installation and have it installed properly and from best quality film. Its really important.

I am an international student from Poland studying in St.Louis.
The company that installed the Bra for me in STL did really great job.

this is the link:

http://www.ultrashieldofstl.com/

Enjoy.

Can I ask how much you paid for it?

$500

Couple quick questions about the bra. Do you have to remove it ever? Wash or wax? I can't see trying to wax right up against the seam....

Once installed properly, does it have the same gloss as a freshly waxed car would? It looks slightly more dull in most of the pics I've saw.

When rocks kick up and hit the bra, it doesn't scratch it or cut through it at all? I would figured over time (2-3 years of rocks) it would get a little tore up.

I'd basically be buying this to, yes prevent rock chips, but also to prevent love bugs from eating through my paint twice a year. The worst part is that my nearest dealer is over an hour away.

Ask Astral, he's had the clear film installed when he first purchased his 8.

Couple quick questions about the bra. Do you have to remove it ever? Wash or wax? I can't see trying to wax right up against the seam....Yes, you should wax it and wash it. Wash it like the rest of the paint. You don't have to remove it. Depending on your wax, you typically want to be careful not to gunk up the wax in the seam. Zaino leaves no residue, so sealants like that are much more forgiving.

Once installed properly, does it have the same gloss as a freshly waxed car would? It looks slightly more dull in most of the pics I've saw.Yes, it looks slightly more dull. If I had to do it again, I would go with VentureTape, which is the glossiest, has no orange peel and now has clearcoat (the one big reason against going with that before). Latest generation 3M ScotchGard is better than before though, less orange peel (pretty major orange peel on my previous-generation application).

When rocks kick up and hit the bra, it doesn't scratch it or cut through it at all? I would figured over time (2-3 years of rocks) it would get a little tore up.Only really bad rocks, once in a blue moon, will penetrate thru the clear bra. Usually they just scuff up the clear bra. If you shine a bright light directly at my clear bra (2 NE winters), you can see the whole plastic area pitted.. but even in the sun and regular light, you can't really see it and underneath the paint is there.

I'd basically be buying this to, yes prevent rock chips, but also to prevent love bugs from eating through my paint twice a year. The worst part is that my nearest dealer is over an hour away.Yes, that's another good reason to get it. However, you should apply a good coat of wax, which will help with the bugs (natural wax has better protection against acids in the bugs).

I found a very comprehensive, detailed write-up that does not require the purchase of expensive products. Just time, patience, and elbow grease. I haven't tried it yet, but I have hundreds of chips on my front end from almost 70k miles of mostly highway driving. I will probably never finish, and it may be best for me to just get the front bumper painted, but for those who only have a few chips, and can keep up with the chips, here it is:
http://www.carcareonline.com/viewarticle.aspx?art=8

I am a new 8 owner, I have been looking around for options, I was pretty excited about the 3M clearbra, unfortunately, I haven't been able to locate a dealer/installer within a few hundred miles of Chattanooga where I live. Are there any other good options?

3m's site doesn't list a dealer in Atlanta, which I have a hard time believing is accurate, anyone got a lead to an installer in the Atlanta area?

VentureTape

Tried using the Langka system a couple days ago. I don't know about this.... I used the pre-paint prep solution. Lightly used the factory colored paint. Allowed to dry for probably 6 hours. (I live in Florida, that should be more than enough time) Stretched the provided cloth across the provided card as shown in video and then applied Blob Eliminator. The second that Blob Eliminator touched the touch-up paint, it just melted away. I don't think I made even a single complete pass with the cloth and all the paint was gone. In and out of the chip. I don't see how their system is possible with this stuff....

Tried using the Langka system a couple days ago. I don't know about this.... I used the pre-paint prep solution. Lightly used the factory colored paint. Allowed to dry for probably 6 hours. (I live in Florida, that should be more than enough time) Stretched the provided cloth across the provided card as shown in video and then applied Blob Eliminator. The second that Blob Eliminator touched the touch-up paint, it just melted away. I don't think I made even a single complete pass with the cloth and all the paint was gone. In and out of the chip. I don't see how their system is possible with this stuff....I had a similar experience. Try more drying time, give it 2 days just to be extra sure, and see if it behaves any differently. I haven't tried more drying time yet.

Tried using the Langka system a couple days ago. I don't know about this.... I used the pre-paint prep solution. Lightly used the factory colored paint. Allowed to dry for probably 6 hours. (I live in Florida, that should be more than enough time) Stretched the provided cloth across the provided card as shown in video and then applied Blob Eliminator. The second that Blob Eliminator touched the touch-up paint, it just melted away. I don't think I made even a single complete pass with the cloth and all the paint was gone. In and out of the chip. I don't see how their system is possible with this stuff....

FBdude - make sure that when you apply the touch up paint, you apply more than what is needed to fill the chip. You want a little blob so that when the blob eliminator (hence the name?!) hits the paint, it will blend into the rest of the paint without removing it totally.

The cool this is (well sorta), if you mess it up, you can start again with no repercussions other than lost time.

The langka site has a 5min video. You should download and watch that a couple of times first (if you haven't already done so).

Eh, I did my own repair.

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=116991

VentureTape

Venture Tape makes a product called VentureShield. You can go to this site:

http://www.invisiblepatterns.com/

to locate a dealer/distributer. They have several patterns for the 8.

The Dr. is in.

just don't get Langka on your headlights... it will instantly melt the plastic away (grrrrr....)