This past weekend I installed the Racing Beat front & rear sway bars along with the Racing Beat front-end links here are some pics and notes.
After jacking up the car I removed all four wheels as I was going to rotate the tires anyway. Removal of the rear tires are not necessary for the installation of the rear sway bar. From reading threads about the difficulty in removing some nuts I sprayed ALL of them with liquid wrench and let them sit for a few hours. Any photos shown also have a corresponding procedure for the opposite side.

Tools needed to do both bars and end-links are
WD40 or Liquid Wrench
10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 19mm 6-point sockets
Torque wrench
5mm & 6mm Allen keys
12mm Drill bit
14mm & 19mm box end wrench (less than 10” in length)

I choose to use the Allen key / box end method to remove the end link nuts. I found that method to be necessary as they were on VERY tight and the bolt would rotate when I used a socket. For the rear end links you need a 14mm wrench and 5mm Allen key. The clamps are held on with 12mm nuts and they came off easy. The bar slides out with room to spare. It’s easy to see and feel the difference between the old and new bars.

PICS: Rear end link. Rear clamps, old & new bars

RB gives you new bushings and grease for the bars; I liberally applied it to the new bushings. The retaining clamps from the old bar are reused on the RB rear bar. It’s easy to install the rear bar upside down as I did that (see 1st pic). You will find that out quickly on the first drive. I think the Racing beat sticker threw me off. I installed the bar with the sticker right side up which puts that on the passenger side (wrong way). Based on another pic I saw the correct way puts the sticker on the drivers side upside-down (the sticker) as shown in the forth pic. Takes less than a half hour if you install the bar correctly the first time.

Bar clamp torque 13-19 ft-lbs
End-link torque 32-44 ft-lbs I used the highest numbers for ALL nuts.


PICS: Bar in place WRONG, New bar with clamps, Grease , Bar CORRECT

For the front bar you begin with the removal of a 10mm bolt that holds a piece of plastic trim to the car. You will need the trim loose in order to remove / install the front sway bar. Since I was also going to install the RB front end links I removed BOTH 14mm end link nuts using the 5mm Allen Key / 14mm box end method. If you were going to keep the stock links you only need to remove the top nuts. The new end links have 19mm nuts so these will not be needed. Should you strip the nuts on the rear these can be used on them.
The Clamps come off easy with a 14mm socket, RB gives you NEW clamps and bushings so you do not need to keep them.



PICS: Plastic trim, end link nuts, bar clamps. Lower link

The new RB end links have a 12mm bolt size as apposed to the 10mm OEM. You will need to enlarge the holes in the new bar and the holes on the lower control arms to accept the new front-end links. RB gives you a 12mm drill bit and a drill guide. After you remove the clamps you will need a 2nd person to help guide the bar out of the car. The instructions from RB for this step are good and I didn’t get a good pic of this steep, but you do need two people to do this.
After you get the new bar in grease the new bushings and put on the new clamps. I went to install the new end-links with 19mm nuts and also ran into the issues of the bolt turning and needed to use a 19mm box end wrench + 6mm Allen key. Here I ran into a small problem, the box end I had was over 11 inches long and would not give me enough room to tighten the nut. I had to run out and buy a new 19mm box end that was less than 10” long. So if you doing this make sure your box end is not too long. Once you get these nuts tight with a wrench you can use a torque wrench to finish it off without the bolt turning.

Clamp Torque 30-36 ft-lbs (go high on this)
End links 65-69 ft-lbs


PICS: Drill & guide, Drilling Control arm, Old & New, installed bar, installed links

The last pics are of the bar installed with the new end links. I have not gotten a chance to do any aggressive driving with the new bars yet but you can feel the difference just by taking turns around the neighborhood. I would have to say along with the others members new sway bars are one of the best mods you can do. Provided you have the right tools this is an easy Do it yourself. I already have the Mazdaspeed strut tower braces and next year I will add MazdaSpeed shocks & springs.

thanks for the pics! sway bars are one my upgrade list. Will be doing my own replacement too!

A very nice DIY, expo1! Thanks for the contribution - great job! :D

Swaybars are my next planned mod, now I'm starting to think that I can do them myself.
Thanks for this informative thread mate. :)

I would have to say along with the others members new sway bars are one of the best mods you can do. Provided you have the right tools this is an easy Do it yourself.

Great DIY! I may even tackle this one myself.

Questions:

1. Does changing the front sway bar actually or potentially affect the front end alignment?

2. Can you elaborate a bit on why you need a second person to facilitate the removal of the front sway bar? My potential "second person" is not very excited about ME messing around with the car, let alone asking her to help me out. :)

Thanks.

Great DIY! I may even tackle this one myself.

Questions:

1. Does changing the front sway bar actually or potentially affect the front end alignment?

2. Can you elaborate a bit on why you need a second person to facilitate the removal of the front sway bar? My potential "second person" is not very excited about ME messing around with the car, let alone asking her to help me out. :)

Thanks.

1, No it does not.

2, My 2nd person was my wife. Imagine the front sway bar as a “see-saw”, if you were by-yourself moving the right side would cause the left to move the opposite way. So once you got one side of the sway-bar over the steering rack you would mess it up by moving the other side were you not to have any help. So what you do is get the bar over the left side of the steering gear then go to the right. Have you assistant keep the left side of the bar in place as you maneuver the right over the steering rack. Then the bar comes out easy.

EDIT:
Found two pics from this board that might better explain. The 1st one shows how close the front sway bar is to the steering rack. The 2nd shows the OEM bar from the side and why removing the 10mm trim piece bolt provides more room to maneuver the bar over the steering rack. You need the 2nd person to do the maneuvering.

Many thanks expo1! Maybe Santa will be good to me this year. :)

Finally got my RB sway bars and installed them today. Installation was not difficult. Only thing that was a PIA was snaking the original front bar out and the new one in. The rear bar installation was a piece of cake. Entire project took about 2.5 hours including jacking up the car, removing the wheels, and other preps.

The instructions that came with the bars were pretty good, although they could stand some improvements, particularly larger/better pictures to go with the instructions. The pictures included were pretty small and in some cases it was difficult to make out the details referred to in the instructions. I also printed out and reviewed the original DIY posted in this thread by expo1. That was definitely helpful also. The shop manual was not much help since it assumed that the large plastic pan under the front of the car was not there. I wasn't about to take off that pan.

I took a short run through the twisties in the mountains near me after installation and had the following impressions:

**Steering was noticably more precise. It was already precise/tight, but now it is REALLY so. And the turn-in-point/apex relationship definitely felt different. The slightest movement of the steering wheel translated immediately into a change in direction. Seemed as though I needed to be more focused on driving to keep from drifting out of the travel lane.

**Most of the minor body roll previously experienced during heavy cornering is gone. I said MOST, not ALL, but it is much improved. Installation of certain aftermarket springs would likely eliminate nealy all of the body roll, but I'm not willing to give up more ride comfort for the last little bit of body roll. Now I need to think about 4/5-point racing harness to keep me in the seat when cornering. :) (Note to self: Gotta think about mounting options for such a belt.)

**Ride was slightly harsher but not objectionably so. It seemed to me that small bumps/ripples in the road that I didn't notice before are now noticable. Might just be my senses being more acute to such things because of the desire to feel the difference in ride after installing the bars.

All-in-all, I am pleased with the handling and the feel of the car with the RB bars installed. It's about what I expected so that's all I can ask. It was money well spent in my opinion.

Go48,
Did you need a 2nd person to help you with installing the front sway bar?

Go48,
Did you need a 2nd person to help you with installing the front sway bar?
No. I managed to work out the OEM sway bar by myself. I didn't dare ask my sig other for help since she is not a car person and doesn't like me working on the car anyway. The instructions from RB helped a lot and I just took my time and carefully worked at it until it came out. The new bar went in fairly easily after figuring out how the old one came out.

Okay, I have a 6 inch 14mm box wrench and the 5mm Allen wrench. Hit the bolts with WD40... Busted blood vessels trying to get the front sway bar off the OEM end links...
Perhaps I was tired as I had also just installed the REVi and the AC & Oil cooler screens.
Oh yes, I had to think hard about what direction to turn the wrench since you can only get at from 'behind'. Never got it to budge.
Had the clamps off with no problem.
Any other tricks. I know it looks simple.
Thanks Craig

<<EDIT>>

Liquid wrench a night's sleep and a new wrench..2 hours and they were off and the new bars on. Quick drive and there is a noticable 'tightness' to the car. More connected. Feels good, I am pleased with them. Now for some track time a few weeks.

Okay, I have a 6 inch 14mm box wrench and the 5mm Allen wrench. Hit the bolts with WD40... Busted blood vessels trying to get the front sway bar off the OEM end links...

Perhaps I as tired as I had also just installed the REVi and the AC & Oil cooler screens.

Oh yes, I had to think hard about what direction to turn the wrench since you can only get at from 'behind'. Never got it to budge.

Had the clamps off with no problem.

Any other tricks. I know it looks simple.

Thanks Craig
Doing the same project as you man!
(Tanabe sways)
The end links where no problem, used motorcycle chain lube,
But on of the bolt that holds the bars is stripped....
Can not get the bolt off!
Wife is of to Home Depot to get a good metal saw, and new bolt....

Cutting the sucker of, no choice, replace bolt, see how it goes....
(The Tanabe's are a grey color, not red as RB)
They have instructions in Japanese, and have new rubber mounts for the brackets....

Installed mine today...and adjusted the ride height on the coilovers. Off to the alignment rack tomorrow to tweak the alignment. The front bar is a PIA by yourself :D the rear is a 10 min job..so it makes up for it.
can't find a place to corner weigh the car...that knows what they are doing. the only place I could find does it in the parking lot :( "and doesn't worry if its perfectly level " DUH

Just wish to add this link to another thead I started that relates to this DIY.

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=65304

Doing the same project as you man!
(Tanabe sways)
The end links where no problem, used motorcycle chain lube,
But on of the bolt that holds the bars is stripped....
Can not get the bolt off!
Wife is of to Home Depot to get a good metal saw, and new bolt....

Cutting the sucker of, no choice, replace bolt, see how it goes....
(The Tanabe's are a grey color, not red as RB)
They have instructions in Japanese, and have new rubber mounts for the brackets....


I just finished installing my RB sways today, and let me tell you that you guys are right on the money on just about everything.

Installing the front sway was a bi***! First of all, getting the damn sway bar off is a major PITA. I managed to do it by myself, but there was no way in hell I was going to try installing the RB front sway by myself. It took two of us quite a bit to snake it through. After 15 mins of so we were able to get it mounted.

The rear sway was a breeze; however, I have no idea how you guys can do this thing in under 30 mins. Jacking up the car alone takes about 5 - 10 mins. About 2-4 mins on each bolt with exception of the top rear sway clamp nut. If you have a ratchet, you keep on scraping against the little aluminum sheet of metal down there, and this sound makes anyone cringe. After 30-45 mins of install -- it took forever to torque it properly, I lowered the car and took it for a spin.

First thing that happens as I drive off, I hear a thunk. WTF? I drive over another speed bump and THUNK! I figure... maybe it's just "repositioning" itself... THUNK! I come back home, and check the forums as I remembered that someone had installed the rear sway backwards. I re-read this thread and voila! I discovered I'm an idiot. I installed it backwards! :mad:

So the sticker goes on the driver's side and faces upside down! Argh! Anyhow, as I'm redoing the rear sway bar, I managed to break one of the clamp bolts!

Does anyone know where's the best place to pick one up? I wonder what specs I need for it. Can I order it from the Mazda dealer? What the part #?

So... first impressions....

- Body roll is a thing of the past; it's negligible. It's a totally different car, and I have to re-learn its limits. Swirving left and right continuously doesn't make the car roll at all (atleast I didn't notice any). What's weird and I guess due to the flattening, is that right after you swerve, you feel the tail straightening out. I'm not sure how to explain it, but it feels significantly different than stock. Changing lanes at high speeds feels more confident than ever.
- Breaking the tail loose on a gradual turn feels completely different. It feels like a car from a friggin' video game (a 'la Burnout 3). I can't immediately tell when its about to break loose since the car is so damn flat, but at least my new tires let me know so. (I installed my new Toyo T1-R's a couple days ago.) I'm not saying that it isn't controllable, I'm saying that you need to pay more attention to it and spend more time (cautiosly) trying to figure out your new limits. I haven't tried powersliding into a 90 deg turn yet since I'm not too comfy taking the to its limits with that broken bolt. I'll update this post once I get a chance to fix the darn thing and experiment.

I managed to break one of the clamp nuts!

Does anyone know where's the best place to pick one up? I wonder what specs I need for it. Can I order it from the Mazda dealer? What the part #?

The nut in this pic? http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=32631

Go to a any hardware store that has a large nut / bolt section. Bring one of the good nuts and see what bolt the nut fits, buy another high quality nut that fits that bolt.

30 min install didn't count jacking the car up :)

The nut in this pic? http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=32631

Go to a any hardware store that has a large nut / bolt section. Bring one of the good nuts and see what bolt the nut fits, buy another high quality nut that fits that bolt.

30 min install didn't count jacking the car up :)


Yup! That's the bolt! I think I said nut earlier, but I meant to say bolt. Thx. :p

Broken bolt = more work :(

Looks like there is enough space for you to drill it out and use a new nut / bolt combo. Need to feel behind that clamp to make sure there is room.

I just called my Mazda dealership, and they couldn't give me a part number for the stud/bolt I broke. Can anyone help me out with that? Thanks.

-jc

I just called my Mazda dealership, and they couldn't give me a part number for the stud/bolt I broke. Can anyone help me out with that? Thanks.

-jc
The parts manual shows the nut for the rear stabilizer bar bushing clamp, but not the stud. I think the stud is welded to the chassis and, therefore, is not a shelf part. You will probably have to drill out the stud and replace it with a short bolt and matching nut of a size comparable to the OEM stud. So go to a hardware and purchase a couple of short-length bolts and matching nuts, drill out the stud and install the new bolt and nut. Depending on how much space is available underneath the mounting point, you may or may not be able to slip even a short bolt up under the mounting point into the hole you drilled. In which case, swap the bolt/nut position so that the nut is under the mounting point and the bolt screws down into the nut. Good luck!!

Go48 is correct, the part you seek is attached to part # 28-800 which is in the photo. To install that part requires the entire disassembly of the rear suspension & removal of the rear differential, clearly not an option for you. Drilling out the broken bolt and replacing it with another is your only real option. There is enough room behind the bracket to fit the bolt.

FYI the front bolt is indeed welded on.
If you remove the black plastic parts inside the wheel well you can get a drill bit in there.
That’s what I did, got a new bold and nut from Home Depot and their is enough room to slide it in.

Just installed my Racing Beat sway bars. I got lucky I guess because everything went very smooth with no problems. The only thing that threw me off was my rear bar has the Racing Beat sticker on the opposite side than Expo's. I had to scratch my head a little bit on this :Eyecrazy: . It is installed properly, but the sticker is upside down on the passenger side, not the driver's side Obviously there is no science at Racing Beat about where the sticker goes so I wouldn't use it to determine how to install. Just use Expo's pictures that show it both ways. I did the install by myself and somehow managed to figure the front bar out on the first attempt. Just look at the bar location in the pictures on the Racing Beat instructions. One other thing, that Prothane grease is some sticky sh!t.

These instructions were really helpful when I put in my Mazdaspeed bars today. Unfortunately, the bars didn't come with the factory instructions, so was left blind until I found this. Anyway, loosening (but not fully taking off) the bottom plastic part really helps when it comes to manuvering the bar out.

The trick is to get the bar to do a 180 and get the end-link holes facing the front of the car. I did do it by myself, and it did take a lot of running back and forth from wheel well to wheel well making sure that I wasn't breaking anything or that the bar didn't get caught on something. Once you do that, it comes out really easily (with a little pulling nonetheless), again loosening the plastic at the bottom helps when getting it out. When you're putting the new bar in, just do everything in reverse.

Just installed my Racing Beat sway bars. I got lucky I guess because everything went very smooth with no problems. The only thing that threw me off was my rear bar has the Racing Beat sticker on the opposite side than Expo's. I had to scratch my head a little bit on this :Eyecrazy: . It is installed properly, but the sticker is upside down on the passenger side, not the driver's side Obviously there is no science at Racing Beat about where the sticker goes so I wouldn't use it to determine how to install. Just use Expo's pictures that show it both ways. I did the install by myself and somehow managed to figure the front bar out on the first attempt. Just look at the bar location in the pictures on the Racing Beat instructions. One other thing, that Prothane grease is some sticky sh!t.

I agree --- don't use the sticker on the rear sway bar to determine the correct orientation of the bar. Here's a pic of my RB rear sway with the sticker right-side up on the passenger side.

Only thing that was a PIA was snaking the original front bar out and the new one in.


there's actually an easier way; drop the big plastic undercover, take the lower radiator brackets off, and the whole front bar can be slid in and out ...

there's actually an easier way; drop the big plastic undercover, take the lower radiator brackets off, and the whole front bar can be slid in and out ...

Wish I would have seen this two days ago. :wallbash:

Well I'll know for the next time. :dunno:

That would make it a one person job. :D:

I have been trying to put in the rear sway bar. I got them for about a week now, sprayed the Liquid wrench on it twice now and still cant get the bolts to come off. Any other ideas on how to get them off. I have not even got a small budge yet.:banghead:

You are also using a 5mm Allen key to keep it from rotating?

Yes i use a box end and allen wrench. But it does not even move. When i try to take it off all it does is flex the end link a bit.

Got a friends air compressor and used some air tools. damn thing was so tight , even after more liguid wrench soak time, it still rounded the damn nut. Guess my car doesnt want me to change the sway bar. looks like i might need to cut the rounded nut off and just replace it.

I'm having the same problem on the passenger side. Both endlink nuts spin in the ball joint. I can't seem to get enough leverage with the allen key to keep it from turning and the box end wrench is starting to round the nuts. Any other thoughts? I was thinking about heating it up with a colman torch to break it free. Any suggestions?

Nutsplitter.

Sounds like my last Girlfriend.:) Thanks for the info. I'll run down to Home Despot and get one.

if you have a long enough allen wrench you can usually let it spin up against something and hold it in place to use full force on the nut

however, I had one seize up so bad that it twisted the end of the allen wrench about 30 degrees, seems like I may have posted a pic of it on here somewhere

ended up cutting the stud off with a portable bandsaw, took about 15 seconds to make the cut, but I had to disassemble most of the front suspension first to have the clearance for it to fit in there

generally speaking, when breaking the nut free you can almost always use a 14mm 6-point socket without needing the allen wrench. I remove and install mine all the time (Adjustable bars) and almost never need to use an allen wrench, typically only if the threads get boogered up from overtightening the nut. A 12" or longer socket wrench provides a lot of leverage, a shorter one will make it more difficult.

be sure and use anti-sieze on the stud when installing the new one, you won't ever have another problem with it

I bout split a nut trying to get mine of. I brought it to a friends shop and just cut it as well. If my impact wouldnt losen it up dont think i would been able to get it off. Oh well got some new end-links as well.

Another option is to get a vise grip in between the sway bar and the end link to hold it that way. Be careful not to cut the boot on the end link. ;)

This is a last resort if the allen head strips out...

I put some loctite blue on the threads to help prevent corrosion for the next time I need to remove the end link.

Sounds like my last Girlfriend.:) Thanks for the info. I'll run down to Home Despot and get one.

So all you really want is my spring compressors this weekend, huh? ;)

Looks like it's going to be a few more days before I get my sways. The boards being down made it difficult to look up the address to send the money to. :(

So all you really want is my spring compressors this weekend, huh? ;)

Looks like it's going to be a few more days before I get my sways. The boards being down made it difficult to look up the address to send the money to. :(


And an impact gun if you have one.:)

Do you think you'll have them this weekend?

Well I figure I'd get a head start so all we have to focus on is getting the new stuff back in rather than wrestling with getting the old stuff out. I was thinking are you around on Saturday to get together and work on it? It would give us a little more time to make sure we can get both cars done in a weekend. Let me know when you want to get together.

Hey Shaunv and Kris,

I have the tools to do this (a BIG air compressor and all the air tools). If you guys want to swing over to Silverdale, I have room in the garage to accomodate both vehicles for the sway bar change out. I did mine last year and figured out the tricks to both the front and rear sway swap. Drop me a PM and let me know. Most evenings and weekends are free for me.

Later
Corvus13

Thanks Corvus! Thats very generous of you. Let me see how we make out on Saturday. If we get stuck I will definitely take you up on the offer on Sunday.

Alright I bought an allen key socket an managed to strip the hex head on the endlink bolt last night so I got that out of the way. Home Despot didn't have the nut splitter so I just picked one up at Sears today. I'll give that a run tonight. That and my neighbor let me borrow his rechargable impact wrench so between those two items there should be no nut that can stand in my way!

If that doesn't work I'm buying a torch and burning the car down to the tires...:banghead:

If I get mine by the weekend it'll be a miracle. The difficulties last week delayed my getting the MO in the mail. :(

Shaun, wait until your problems are the same as mine before you go to such extremes. I would hate to think you didn't have the patience to deal with a relatively easy fix.:lol2:

Yeah. Thanks for the perspective. I'll get it one way or the other. I have no doubt.

Okay I was able to get the endlink off of the sway bar by wedging my 3/8" socket with the 5mm hex head into the hole in the lower control arm and using a hammer on my box end 14mm wrench to free up the nut. The endlink bolt on the lower control arm is hambuger at this point though.

If I didn't mention it before I'm going to change out the endlinks for the Racingbeat endlinks at the same time. Technically I guess I could leave it as is now but I just can't leave a completely mangled bolt on my car. I couldn't get the nut splitter to seat around the nut. It's in a small recess on the control arm and the nut splitter is too thick to sit flush in the recess so it keeps riding up the nut as I twist it down. I did make some headway when I clamped it down so I may try that one more time.

I think I'll try heating up the nut with a plumbing torch next and then spinning it off with the impact gun.

I will try 4_years suggestion as well with the vice grip.

the problem with RB endlinks is that you have to drill out the control arm and swaybar mounting holes to a larger diameter, and frankly for no good reason either because IMO they're not needed

IMO get new OE endlinks and use antisieze on the stud threads before installing them

Thanks for the input Team. I have already purchased the racingbeat endlinks. It comes with the drillbit and drill bushing so it shouldn't be tool big a deal to drill out the holes. I figured the stockers would be fine but I bought them in case I ran in to what I'm running into now with the destructive removal problem. If the endlinks had come off fine I probably would have re-used them but now that the bottom one is all buggered up I'm going to switch them.

I will definitely be using antisieze on these bolts!! I think they employ a gorilla at the factory to torque down all the bolts on the suspension.:)

Are the nut splitters the same as the Craftsman Bolt-outs?

Those work wonders on nuts that are rounded out.

Instead of anti-seize use loctite blue. This will prevent the threads from corroding and also prevent them from loosening up. The blue is non-permanent so the holding power is not extreme.

I had a bolt come out from rear caliper mounting bracket because of anti-seize,and on a critical component I wouldn't risk it again.

it didn't come out due to antisieze, it came out because you didn't torque it properly, if at all ... :rolleyes:

been using it for 30+ years, only time anything ever came loose is because I f'd up ...

Nice DIY!!! Good work man!

VICTORY IS OURS!!

Well kristopher_d and I got the swaybars and the shocks done. We ended up having to straigh drill out the bolt for the front passenger side endlink from the control arm. It came out though and the new ones went in. On the rear endlinks we had to heat up the nuts with a plumbers torch. It worked fine though. Thanks for the help and suggestions everyone!

The shocks went in without drama. Now the car corners incredibly! I put the konis on 25% (180) from full soft in the rear and 50% (360) in the front. It perfect and smooth on the street. Man they really damp out the rebound quickly and are still comfortable.
:bigok:

Special thanks to kristopher_d for coming over and spending his weekend wrenching on my car. I think the only thing worse than wrenching on your own car all weekend is someone elses!:)

To buttress the point Team was making; threaded bolts/nuts/screws don't hold things together due to thread interface. They hold things together due to stretching of the bolt or screw as it it torqued. Therefore, use of anti-seize won't cause backing out. Insufficient stretching will.

As a followup. I ended up breaking my rear passenger side endlink on my test drive. When I heated up the nut to remove it off the endlink bolt I got the bolt too hot and melted the teflon retaining ring inside the endlink balljoint itself. I'm going to bring it to my Mazda Dealer to have them replace it. I was able to heat up my drivers side rear endlink without damaging the teflon endlink retaining ring inside the ball joint.

The moral of the story is if you have to heat up the nut do so carefully and quickly so as not to heat up the bolt too much. Like I said I was able to heat up the nut on the drivers side without melting the teflon so you just need to be careful.

The other moral should be, if you don't own an AC drill, go borrow, beg, or buy one. Cordless is handy, but they run out of torque real quick and you spend more time waiting for it to charge than you do using it.

It's all good, Shaun. I had fun, and your wife is quite the cook.

An hour total, and I was already exhausted from a game of flag football in the morning. Lesson, don't get fat and out of shape.

With a proper AC drill, honing out the end-link mounting points took about 3 seconds each. One good pull with my breaker bar on each end-link was enough to free them up. Thanks to this write-up and the experience working on Shaun's car, it was a snap. Hopefully I'm not too awful sore in the morning so I can go out and feel out the new parts.

And all you former east-coasters complaining about Seattle not salting the roads, this is why you should be happy. Our cars don't dissolve in the winter months. ;)

Glad to hear it went off without a hitch Kris. So have you had a chance to go for a drive yet.:)

Yeah, I got out in the wet for a couple hours yesterday. Preliminary impressions, considering the low traction conditions, are positive. The car definitely rolls less and has more traction. It's much more aggressive when she takes a light set in a corner. Much better feedback. She also stays balanced better. Handling was always well balanced, a little too much push, but she is a road car. Now, there's less push, and she doesn't get upset as easily by brake or throttle application. On the flip side, as with any handling improvement, the edge is a lot more abrupt. The further you push out the edge of adhesion, the steeper the slope once you go over. For the first time in a long while I found myself dipping in to TC repeatedly. Not enough for her to bog down, just enough I could feel a little grind, and she refused to give me any more throttle, which was a nice change. Hopefully the roads will stay dry and I'll be able to REALLY feel her out today.

Well, I hit a couple of my favorite local roads in the dry yesterday. The handling improvements are enough I don't have an accurate paradigm to push the car any more. Have to get a LOT more seat time now. Unfortunately, I did pick up a clunk somewhere up front when going over bumps with just one side of the car. Obviously sway-bar related, so now I need to get back under there and see what came loose. :(

Making it even tougher to push the car, I think my 2nd gear syncro is COMPLETELY TOAST. The damned bean counters obviously were involved in that part of the car. I have to be quite deliberate putting her into gear on acceleration, and have miraculous timing slowing down.

I'm not entirely certain 2nd gear is the right one for most of these corners (it used to be, but...). However, until I can dive in deep and late then jump off the corners hard and early, it's tough to tell how much more speed I can carry. It's definitely 10+mph easy on most corners, which still has me wanting 2nd, but it may not be necessary.

Noice. Sorry to hear about your synchro.:( I just took mine out to Mercer Island Way tonight and man is it happy! So flat and confidence inspiring. It breezes through corners that at speeds that used to make me kick off the traction control. Me likey...:)

Hi All. Just wanted to add some long term followup. After a week or so I started hearing some clunking and groaning over potholes and rough roads. I found that I needed to re torque the swaybar endlinks and shock piston nuts. It's much quieter and the clunking and groaning is gone.

I recommend after a week or two of driving that you do this.

thanks for all the info guys -- it helped a lot with my install!!

the rb sways are bad ass. i lowered the car with tein s about a year ago, and that difference in handling was great. i wish i could feel the sways first, then the drop, out of curiosity, but i can say the combo of tein s springs and rb sways (front and rear) is amazing. wish the car came like this stock, although it feels good to mod it. the tire breaking point is a little scary, like someone said -- it stays so flat you don't realize how fast you're going until you feel the dsc kick in when the tires break loose a little! definitely will be taking it easy to get a really good feel of how far i can safely push it now!!

i did just experience power steering loss, posted here, let me know if you guys can comment on it! here (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?p=2211906#post2211906)

there's actually an easier way; drop the big plastic undercover, take the lower radiator brackets off, and the whole front bar can be slid in and out ...

If you drop the plastic undercover is it possible to do the RB front bar install without removing the front wheels? I prefer using ramps.

I installed the rear bar late Sunday night while I was putting the MS exhaust in but didn't have time to get to the front.

As a followup. I ended up breaking my rear passenger side endlink on my test drive. When I heated up the nut to remove it off the endlink bolt I got the bolt too hot and melted the teflon retaining ring inside the endlink balljoint itself. I'm going to bring it to my Mazda Dealer to have them replace it. I was able to heat up my drivers side rear endlink without damaging the teflon endlink retaining ring inside the ball joint.

The moral of the story is if you have to heat up the nut do so carefully and quickly so as not to heat up the bolt too much. Like I said I was able to heat up the nut on the drivers side without melting the teflon so you just need to be careful.

??? can't you have insert an allen key(hex wrench) to the bolt and use a wrench to loosen the endlink?

if not all models are like that... well, there's still an easier way to do it.
-use a thin grinding wheel. put a notch into the bolt. use a flat screwdriver to hold the notch made in the bolt and use a wrench to loosen.

same technique used to remove frozen screws holding down brake rotors...

^^ To answer your question I tried that first and was able to round off the allen key slot in the endlink bolt before it freed up. So I had to use more drastic measures.

This worked on my drivers side endlinks but not the passenger side. I blame it on the east coast road salt I spent two winters in. Us East Coasters always have a tougher time on the passenger side suspension stuff because thats where the plows push all the snow and salt when they come through. It then gets kicked up in the wheel wells and proceeds to rust everything on that side of the car first.:)

If you drop the plastic undercover is it possible to do the RB front bar install without removing the front wheels? I prefer using ramps.

I installed the rear bar late Sunday night while I was putting the MS exhaust in but didn't have time to get to the front.

Maybe, but I really doubt it. You have to turn the steering wheel back and forth several times to get the right clearances, and even with the wheels off, it's tight.

Does anyone know where I can pick up new rear end links without having to order them?

Or the least expensive place to order some from?

The dealership should have them. :dunno:

Does anyone know where I can pick up new rear end links without having to order them?

Or the least expensive place to order some from?

They should only be about $30 each.

^at the dealership? $30 for each link? so 60 for the both rears?

Yes. You can buy them online as well from Rosenthal or Trussville Mazda.

$25 each:
http://www.trussvillemazda.com/?http://www.buymazdaparts.com/

This may sound kind of silly but it there some trick to getting the wheels off? I have the car on jack stands and took the 5 lug nuts off but it just won't budge.

You need to use the BFH. If it's been a while the wheels can rust to the rotors and you'll need to bang it off with a rubber mallet or hammer.

I love the BFH (Big Flippin' Hammer), the rubber mallet is my second favorite. :D:

Okay, after about 7 hours of working I was able to get the front sway bar off and the new one through that maze, but i need to twist it around but there is no room to. So I guess I'm going to have to remove the plastic tray and lower radiator mounts. There has to be an easier way to remove that plastic tray than take out the 15 or so metal screws and 20 or 30 plastic fasteners.

it's the only way, so that's as easy as it gets

removing the tierod ends from the steering knuckle should allow the bar to twist around - pull the safety clip, break the nut loose with an impact gun, unthread the nut so that it's slightly higher than the tierod end threads, then give the nut several good whacks with a hammer to break the tierod end free from the spindle arm

I was able to slide it in by turning the steering wheel all the way one way, wiggle shoving it through, and then turning the steering wheel all the way the other way and wiggling. It really takes two people if you want to do that though.

:lol: Shaun........I did it by myself and didn't even lower the tray or anything. Think I went back and forth turning the wheel and turning the bar about 30 times before I FINALLY got it. Much easier with two people as long as you don't try and fight each other while doing it. I won't make too much light of this because it was a bitch. You just have to be patient and persistent.

The bar is through the maze and everything but the holes are facing downwards. When I got the old bar off I did it by first managing to turn the bar to the position that the new one is now. But on the new one the part with the holes is longer and I don't know if I'm going to be able to spin it. Is that how you guys got the new one in, or would I have to pull it back out and get it back through the maze facing the other way. I'm not really looking forward to taking off every single plastic piece connected to the front of the car, especially because I usually break about half of the plastic fasteners I attempt to get off.

If I remember......and that's a big if..............."yes", my holes pointed downward at one time.

I actually had to have the bar inside(past that one lip) on the drivers side for most of the rotation where MOST of the turning was done.

I believe that also turning the wheel back and forth is the way to go, but I do think you will have to push it back in a little(carefully) to get it to rotate almost into the correct position. Then pull it back towards you slowly(that lip is trouble) while not letting it rotate back.

This got me to a point where I had about 1/4 inch of clearance issue in getting it past the final hurdle(which I think was part of the A-arm) and I was able to finally work it past there by letting the A-arm droop enough(if that makes any sense). I might have actually forced the wheel hub down with one hand while rotating that last little bit and clearing the A-arm.

It's either that or go back to read what TEAM wrote above.

Good luck, take your time and don't mess up any cables, etc. while doing it.

I'm not kidding, I was by myself and it took quite a while to find the right combination of wheel turn, flexing the hub, and manipulating the bar before I got it. I nearly gave up about 4 times. Oh...............and I did walk away for 1/2 hour several times.



Dave

^^What he said^^

Yep. You need to "dink" around with it as explained above.

BTW "Dink" is the technical term for all that.

After 10 hours I was finally able to get the new bar on! I have every single nut tightened except one! The damn bolt is stripped where the allen key goes in and I can't tighten it!

You should replace the endlink.

$25-$30 at the dealer they probably have them in stock.

Also make sure you torque them to spec. and then retorque them a week later. They will loosen up on you if they are new nuts and bolts.

Well I managed to tighten the nut on the endlink (took a few hours) I held the bolt with locking pliers and turned the nut with a wrench. I might just upgrade my front endlinks in the next few weeks, I hope the rb or agency doesn't have that hex bolt design! Because I know I will probably strip the OEM one.

I took my car out for a test drive but didn't push it too hard because I am waiting for my new rear endlink so I still have the stock bar on. I could feel it wanting to understeer massively. I have the Progress tech bars and set the front to the softest setting, the front bar has 3 settings and the rear only has 2, so would setting the rear to the softest as well make neutral steer and the tighter setting give me oversteer? I just don't want to have understeer. Or if I set the front to the middle setting and the rear to the tight would that be neutral or oversteer?

Well......if you get the RB endlinks, you are gonna have to drill the bar and the car chassis and that probably means taking it back out and then putting it back in. Not sure if you feel like you wanna do that.

RX-8 Front Sway Bar Endlinks (1 Pair)

The addition of a larger aftermarket sway bar can increase the stress loads on the original OEM sway bar endlinks. To combat these increased loads, Racing Beat has designed a set of OEM style aftermarket endlinks to absorb the increased demands of a larger front sway bar.

Incorporated into the design of these links are larger 12mm mounting studs and matching retaining nuts. The sealed bearing is self lubricating and should offer many miles of maintenance free driving.

These endlinks are intended for street and autocross applications and are highly recommended for use with the Racing Beat bar. Although these upgraded endlinks can be used with the stock sway bar, we believe that the original links are adequately suited for use with the stock bar.

Due to the larger diameter studs provided on the Racing Beat endlinks, both the sway bar ends and the mounting holes on the chassis must be enlarged to accept the mounting studs. Provided in the endlink kit is the appropriate sized drill bit and a drilling guide to accomplish this task. Also included are detailed instructions complete with drilling suggestions and torque specifications.

Note: The reason that the RB sway bar is provided with a 10mm hole is to allow use of the stock OEM endlinks. If we supplied the RB Sway Bar with a larger 12mm hole, then it would become mandatory to use the aftermarket links. Although the use of the RB Endlink Kit requires minor modifications, the rather cheap “insurance” offered by the installation of this kit is well worth the modest installation effort.




If you really need new ones, I have a set of OEM front endlinks for sale and I'll do the best I can in getting them to you as cheaply as possible.

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=138818


Dave

HI,

Finally get my sway bars here in east France, saturday 10 th may installed without any problems. Great quality, cars lies almost flat and steering response is fine and immediate. IN racing Beat i trust, they don ' t exagerate the quality benfit of their products. Already tested on track even greater to take over Porsche 911 type 993 in corners.

Thanks to this DIY i bought the sway bars and don 't regret it.


bye from France
Downwind

Well, strictly speaking, softer is grippier (on each corner, but not necessarily across the car). I'd set everything to the softest setting and go from there. If she's understeering, firm up the rear. If she's over steering, firm up the front. If she's neutral but still leaning too much, firm them both up and repeat.

So if i read this all correctly its possible to install the rear without air tools as long as you use the liquid wrench ??? just bougt a set from Charles would love to put them on.

No need for air tools, just the ones in the first post. I would follow Teams advice on removing the undertray to install the front bar. Doing it without can be done, but is a pain.

Sweet i'll get started right now, thanks for the help dude

And..............if you are doing the front at some point, do not get frustrated by that one. It's gonna take a while to get it out of there and the new one in......especially if you are doing it by yourself. :banghead:
The rear is cake!

And..............if you are doing the front at some point, do not get frustrated by that one. It's gonna take a while to get it out of there and the new one in......especially if you are doing it by yourself. :banghead:
The rear is cake!

uhh yeah, rear you dont even have to jack up the car. the front well lets just say alone its not the easiest of jobs to do. but yeah defently handling more crisp and a less body roll in corner overall very happy with the purchase.

- Loosen plastic in the wheel wells that goes around the sway bar

- Loosen the lower radiator mounts (I think it is 4 bolts and they both come out.

Makes for a much easier time getting the sway bar out. ;)

What about RX-8 AT and RB sway bars?

Do you need to buy clamps for the rear sway bar or you can use the OEM clamps of the Normal Suspension of the RX-8 AT in order to fit the RB Rear Sway bars.

I ask that because the RB Rear Sway bar comes without clamps.

Thanks

Clumps?? You mean clamps? Here's what RB says:

"Racing Beat's RX-8 Rear Sway Bar

The diameter of the rear tubular bar is .75” (19mm) x .125” wall thickness, as compared to the stock .632” (16mm) x .097” wall thickness rear bar. An additional feature of the rear bar is a pair of OEM style "stoppers" to prevent the bar from sliding sideways in the bar bushings during heavy cornering effort. Each bar is supplied with replacement urethane bushings, Prothane grease and installation instructions. (The original OEM bar clamps are retained for use with this bar.)"

^ Yes, sorry I meant clamps (I just edited my post). Yes I know that RB does not provide OEM bar clamps for the rear sway bar. SO my question is will the RX-8 AT (normal suspension) OEM clamp will do the job?

or

Normal Suspension and Sport Suspension use the same bar clamps (concerning product number and diameter) at the rear sway bar?

As far as I know, the anti-sway bars are the same for all models, unless perhaps a Shinka or some other special model. And since RB does not make the distinction for different models, I would assume that is the case. You can get a definitive answer from RB by emailing Jim Langer (jlanger@racingbeat.com) of by calling them (714) 779-8677 M-F (8-5 PST).

Thanks I will send an e-mail to RB. In the meantime Is is anyone with RX-8 AT and normal suspension with fitted Rear RB sway bar?

If yes , did he/she need to buy clamps ?

So wtf took a turn at like 60 not un normal on the road i usually cruse on, and i hear a loud ass pop... i knew something with the PT rear sways i just put on must be up, look and the left side is not connected and the bolt is missing, then i go to find out its like the bolt on the endlink (which i might add is hollow!!!! fucking dumb idea that was.) so after 1 hour of trying to get a new bolt on i realize that there is no 5mm allen wrench spot then it occurs that it broke. so can i drive with just 1 side connected untill i get the part (friday) and i'd drive really slow on truns and stuff. Thanks for your helpful imput in advance.

Yes you can drive with one side connected. Just take it easy as you said. Not sure what you're talking about with the endlink being hollow. Are those OEM? Be aware that if you popped your endlink bolt you may have your rear sway bar installed upside down. Make sure to check and see if it's installed correctly.

Pics in like 1 min plz help

There are pictures of upside down and right side up in post #2 of this thread.

see what i mean there is no place to use an allen key, its like it popped off or something

see what i mean there is no place to use an allen key, its like it popped off or something

The allen key goes in the end of the bolt. It is on the top left side of your picture. You put the bolt through the hole in the sway bar, then put the nut on finger tight, then put the 5mm allen key in the end of the bolt that you put the nut on. You then use a wrench to tighten down the nut. Don't turn the allen key. Just use it to keep the bolt from turning.

I think that's the piece you referred to as hollow. That's the allen key hole.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u34/shaunv74/endlink2.jpg

ya i know that, i'm saying if you put the allen key in there and somehow broke the bolt so you can no longer put the allen key in. thats what i'm stuck with, the bolt ends where the bottom of the allen key opening is. so in the pic thats really the bottom of the allen key slot.

Ah Ha!

Well you may not need it. In my experience I was able to torque on the nut without having to use the allen key to hold the bolt from turning. I only needed it to take off the nut.

that being said you are setting yourself up for a painful time the next time you want to take it apart if you don't get it fixed so I would just replace the endlink. They're $30.

Added: So who put on your swaybar and effed it up? They should replace it for you.

ya the endlink is here on friday, i tried to just torc the bolt on but it doesn't stick out enough once through the sway bar, and my luck it spins just by using my finger, but yeah thanks for the help dude. think i'm going to torque down the right side some more. DAMN MY LUCK!!!! should i just take off the broken one then? i'm probably not going to drive cause somehow i think its bad. will post pics of the broken link when its off.

.. i guess my self to blame on the install i thought it was tight and everything but i guess not... now i cant get the damn endlink off this is just pissing me off now

It's okay to drive it. Just take it easy. Yes you definitely want to replace the endlink. Again the OEMs are only ~$30. You can get them from the dealer or order them online. You want to use a torque wrench on them to make sure they are on but not too tight.

Front Suspension:

Upper Control Arm Bolts (2X per side) 62.0 - 72.2 ft-lbs
Lower Shock Mounting Bolt (1 X per side) 57.68 - 76.26 ft-lbs
Piston Rod Nut (Compress spring before removing)(1 X per side) - 23.2 - 34.0 ft-lb
Sway Bar End Link Nuts (2X per side) 31.8 - 44.8 ft-lbs
Brake Hose Bracket Bolt (1X per side) 13.7 18.8 ft-lbs
Tower Bar Nuts (2X per side) 13.0-19.5 ft-lbs
Tower Bar Plate Nuts (3X per side) 34.1 -46.3 ft-lbs

Rear Suspension:

Upper Shock Bracket Nuts (inside trunk 2X per side) 27.5 - 38.2 ft-lbs
Shock Bracket to Shock assembly Bolts (2 X per side) 27.5- 38.2 ft-lbs
Upper shock Mounting Nuts (Inside truck on floor below mounting bracket 2X per side) 34.1 - 46.3 ft-lbs
Shock Mounting Bolt (Up from underneath car into trunk floor 1X per side) 17.4 -23.3 ft-lbs
Rear Control Link End Bolts (1X per side) 55.69-75.23 ft-lbs
Lower Shock Mounting Bolt (1X per side) 64.91-87.86 ft-lbs
Sway Bar End Link Nuts (2X per Side) 31.8-44.8 ft-lbs
Piston Rod Nut (compress spring before removing)(1 X per side) 23.2-34.0 ft-lbs

thanks for that info dude, but i did have the torque wrench but the whole bolt spinning making it useless but i did manage to get a 5mm socket wrench for a torque wrench. will post pics tomorrow of the broken endlink.

I had to get it finger tight first before torquing it so it wouldn't spin. It's a PITA due to the ball joint being held in by a teflon piece so it's not very torque friendly. I wouldn't use the allen key to torque the bolt if you can help it. If it's your only option though...

On impulse, I bought the rear RB sway bar only. Is that a bad idea? Do I need to pair it up with the RB front? I didn't even think of ordering the front at the time. :banghead:

On impulse, I bought the rear RB sway bar only. Is that a bad idea? Do I need to pair it up with the RB front? I didn't even think of ordering the front at the time. :banghead:

Yeah it will make your rear end disproportionally stiffer than the front causing it to want to step out quicker. So it will unbalance the car. I would buy the front one and install it at the same time to maintain the balanced handling.

There are a lot of people in autox that just run the front bar and not the rear.

Yeah it will make your rear end disproportionally stiffer than the front causing it to want to step out quicker. So it will unbalance the car. I would buy the front one and install it at the same time to maintain the balanced handling.

There are a lot of people in autox that just run the front bar and not the rear.

Thanks!

Sweet mother of God...

I just did the front with new Mazdaspeed springs, shocks, and racing beat sway bar. Good God, the whole front took me 11 hours, roughly.

The hard part was getting the strut assembly back into place while holding the hub/rotor up, and also aligning the top strut plate (triangle plate) with the bottom of the strut. Took forEVER!

Then, the sway bar - I did it by myself, and it took several hours. Putting the RB one in through the drivers side was a mistake and a lost hour (they said to reverse how you took it out - wrong!). I fed it through the passenger wheelwell and it slid in within 10 min. But then I couldn't get it over the steering linkage, so I dropped the lower strut bolt and the upper control arm (again) in order to lower the steering linkage enough for it to go over.

I stopped at 2AM. But it's daylight savings, so now it's 3AM. Crap.

Car looks amazing, I love the mazdaspeed spring/strut drop. It's perfect for me!

The bar is chewed up to hell. The 1-2+ hours it took to slide it in really mangled the bright red paint.

Test drive with just the front lowered (lol) was awesome. Car looks slammed! I took as many turns as fast as I felt comfortable with no squealing or body roll. I'm afraid to push it further. At this point it's ridiculous to take a 25MPH turn at 55+ or a 45MPH turn at 80+. I feel like I"m a lot more dangerous now. There just doesn't seem to be a point to push it further than that. I guess I'm too scared to go faster, haha!

I definitely feel more bumps now. I hope I don't get fatigued over long trips. I hate the EVO and STI for that very reason - way too stiff.

This is on an AT. Will do the rears tomorrow afternoon.

BTW, since I had a bone stock base model AT, the mazdaspeed springs /shocks appear to give me a a 1.5" - 2" drop. I was expecting a .9" drop like the literature specifies. Before I was able to shove my size 16 shoes on top of the wheel, not any more!

Also, I don't have TC or DSC so I'm being pretty damned careful not to slide out. No LSD either. :(

BTW, since I had a bone stock base model AT, the mazdaspeed springs /shocks appear to give me a a 1.5" - 2" drop. I was expecting a .9" drop like the literature specifies. Before I was able to shove my size 16 shoes on top of the wheel, not any more!

Also, I don't have TC or DSC so I'm being pretty damned careful not to slide out. No LSD either. :(

Ouch. But yeah it does get pretty funny when you take a 25 at like 90 and hear no tire squeal or roll, just love the Progress Tech bars.

Thanks all for the great diy and threads to match. I was changing my rotors and pads a couple of weeks ago and heard a "pop" when i was jacking up the rear of the car. Apprently the rear sway end link snapped. I finally got it replaced tonight but what a beotch. The sway is installed correctly and link wasn't bent or anything but the bottom portion fo the link snapped away from the lower housing. So the blue teflon plug was just sitting there with the top portion hangin in the wind. Got a stock replacement from the dealer and spent 2 hours cutting out the old bolts with a dremmel and a cutoff wheel. Mines an 04 and it was loctite'd and rusted. no amount of blast, wd40 or pure steel and brawn would torque them off. Finally after cutting the bolts out the new link went on in less than 5 minutes. Again... thanks all for the posts they really helped out.

Have to say thanks again to Expo for another very good DIY.

Front sway is a PITA so for other, don't get frustrated and just keep trying and have a friend.

HUGE difference in turns with the PT sways. I mean it is an amazing difference.

Ferro - reading your MS shock/springs makes me scared. I want to get MS shocks (have the springs on already) but... that seems a bit low for my tastes.

Ya just a fyi wouldn't use self locking nuts for PT sways after breaking 2 endlinks on the front i asked the shop why this has happened 2x, they replied your driving too hard......(o and when the endlinks break you'll know, usually ends in O SHIT O SHIT OSHIT sliding sideways off the track) so i decided to watch them install the 3rd set of front endlinks to find out they were using self locking nuts. guess they need a little breathing room on the nuts, told them to take those off NOW, they had to nutbuster them off buy a 4th set of endlinks on them. no problems since. little pollyurathane grease on the bushing and noise is all good.

ok guys i need some help too.

i got the rear progress tech bars installed with evo-r endlinks after a battle with a stripped end link nut. (fyi the Craftsman bolt out set works wonders: http://tinyurl.com/ycg2c62)

then i got the front out and the new front in. i managed to get the passenger side over the steering rack but could never get the driver side over. here's where i was trying to get the bar over and just couldn't make it:

http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/4778/photoan.jpg

i was trying to lift the flat bit of the bar up enough to clear that leg but it runs into the frame and some other pieces up here:

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8352/photo2lt.jpg

once i can get that part of the sway bar over i'll be good to go but in the meantime i have no front sway which is really interesting..

also, not sure why the forum doesn't let me post this images correctly..

ok so i figured it out with some help from RawrX8 and thought i'd share the method that finally worked.

first you have to take out the plastic wheel well liner which frees up a lot of space and lets you maneuver around those cables. it's connected by a bunch of plastic clips

153108

then you can drop the plastic undertray by pulling out a few 10mm bolts and several plastic clips. you dont need the whole thing off, just the rear end of it

153110

by then it should look like this:

153109

next you can remove the radiator support brackets (2) like team said earlier. it was hard to find them with the plastic undertray installed but once it's gone it's easy. they're attached by two bolts, 12mm i think.

here's a pic of the bracket installed:

153111

and here's a pic once it's removed:

153112

after that you have plenty of space to work with and can slide the bar in fairly easily. it's still hard to spin it over the steering rack but i had luck with inserting the bar from the passenger side and dropping the leg of the sway bar into the correct position on the driver's side first, then lifting the passenger side over and into position.

if anyone in the seattle area wants a hand i cna help out now that i know what i'm doing. pay it forward, right?

Subscribed as I'll be doing the Progress Tech's soon. Good read here.

hehe good luck man.

the good news is they feel great. much better than running w/o the front sway. lol

the front is a bitch.... you need a friend to just push down on the hub assembly with as much force as possible. there is enough play that you can push it down and get the sway bar over the steering bar without having to rip everything apart. Easier if you don't have the suspension on.

See now you're discouraging me.

haha you have to try it to know what we're talking about..

the front is a bitch.... you need a friend to just push down on the hub assembly with as much force as possible. there is enough play that you can push it down and get the sway bar over the steering bar without having to rip everything apart. Easier if you don't have the suspension on.

yes, i concur, the front...is...a...bitch...

the rear is significantly easier, you just have to mark that thing to make sure you get the alignment correct.

but the front...my god...it was a pita

the rear is significantly easier, you just have to mark that thing to make sure you get the alignment correct.


the alignment will be off if you're already lowered so marking doesnt help any

the alignment will be off if you're already lowered so marking doesnt help any

thats assuming people are lowered and that they didn't get alginment afterwards. it is still a good idea to put them back where they were.

thats assuming people are lowered and that they didn't get alginment afterwards. it is still a good idea to put them back where they were.

yep. just didnt want to confused those lowered non aligned people like myself. ;)

I recently bought a used set of Progress Tech sways front and back, with Agency Power end links. And I read through this thread, theres some sort of grease to use to lube up something. Since mine are used, I'm assuming I'll have to grease them up. Does it matter what type of grease to use? Also what am I greasing? I haven't figured that out yet.

I recently bought a used set of Progress Tech sways front and back, with Agency Power end links. And I read through this thread, theres some sort of grease to use to lube up something. Since mine are used, I'm assuming I'll have to grease them up. Does it matter what type of grease to use? Also what am I greasing? I haven't figured that out yet.

The grease is to provide lubrication between the sway bars and the bushings that hold them in place. I'd suggest: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Energy-Suspension-Formula-5-Prelube-Bushing-Lube.asp

You can get that from Amazon as well, in a nice 8oz bucket. When apply them, you apply them liberally inside the bushings (the rubber things) and then put them onto the sway bar. Make sure everything is nice and clean before you get the grease on them. The point of the grease is so the bar will be allowed to rotate inside the bushings without making the squeaky noise.

When I'm installing both the front and rear sways the wheels are off correct?

you can do the rear with the wheels on no prob. for the fronts you need the wheels off.

And then just so I'm thinking correctly, the rear can be a 1 person job, but from what I read the front is a 2 man team. Something about someone needed to hold something in place?

And then just so I'm thinking correctly, the rear can be a 1 person job, but from what I read the front is a 2 man team. Something about someone needed to hold something in place?

Man, when I read that, I laughed. The front could be done by one person, if that person had the patience, strength, time, position, and luck to do it. Otherwise, having another pair of hands is very helpful. You can see how easy it is to do the rear - just get behind your car, look under your muffler, and voila.

And then just so I'm thinking correctly, the rear can be a 1 person job, but from what I read the front is a 2 man team. Something about someone needed to hold something in place?

right. i aaaaalllllmost did it myself but having that second person for the front helped finish the job. i used my sister at first but she has no patience with my projects. ;)

When installing the back sway bar, does the car have to be on jacks. Ass end in the air? Or can one install the rear sway and end links while the car is setting/wheels on ground?

Reason I ask is I can't get the nut off the stock end link. I'm literally rocking the car back and forth and that sucker isnt coming off.

HELP I got one stock end link off, but the other one, the nut that is holding the end link in place, is just spinning the bolt inside of the end link. Not sure what to do. Do I grind it off? If so All the sparks from the grinding will be shooting up into the car. HELP

are you using at hex key thing in the end of it and it still spins in place?

the screw bit of the end link has a hex opening that you can put any kind of hex screw bit, tool etc in so that you can hold it in place while you try to un do the the bolt.

Also might want to WD40 up that thing and let it sit for a bit.

if you haven't done the front one yet, get someone to help you. total PITA unless you want to rip the car apart.

Read my post up aways I used the craftsman bolt out kit to get one of the rear end links off

Finally got it. Yeah going through this on the rear, I'm having a shop doing the front. I have no patience.

end link bolts on the front were no prob for me. i say you should give it a shot before engaging a shop. ;) good luck!

would the torques be the same for most all sway bars??

I def want to do this mod, but I am just uneasy about having to drill out my control arms to fit the new endlinks :(

I def want to do this mod, but I am just uneasy about having to drill out my control arms to fit the new endlinks :(

you shouldn't have to drill anything unless your car is already damaged in some way..

edit..

Sorry, yea silly RB endlinks being fatter than others. I'd say just pass on the RB endlinks and get a different set or even just use the oem ones. There are other choices that don't need you to drill that work just as well.

you shouldn't have to drill anything unless your car is already damaged in some way..

edit..

Sorry, yea silly RB endlinks being fatter than others. I'd say just pass on the RB endlinks and get a different set or even just use the oem ones. There are other choices that don't need you to drill that work just as well.

Good deal, I was actually thinking that, but arent the ends of the rb front sways bigger to accomodate the rb endlinks? I thought thats what the OP indicated (granted this is an old thread and things may have changed). If so, wouldn't that cause some problems if i were to use with OE ends

Good deal, I was actually thinking that, but arent the ends of the rb front sways bigger to accomodate the rb endlinks? I thought thats what the OP indicated (granted this is an old thread and things may have changed). If so, wouldn't that cause some problems if i were to use with OE ends

no the bars have the same 10mm hole, if you want to use RB endlinks you need to enlarge the sway holes yourself.

no the bars have the same 10mm hole, if you want to use RB endlinks you need to enlarge the sway holes yourself.

Got it, thanks ffor the tip!!

I want those things badly. my R3 is rolling like a boat.

IMO, the sways are one of th the best upgrades to do and should be one of the first.

You can do the front sway with one man, but you need to take note of MazdaManiac's and Team's notes on that.

Remove all the front pan plastics.

You need to jack the car up high enough you can remove the plastics.

I needed to use PB Blaster on the right side to get it loose. I live in AZ and I feel sorry for anyone dealing with winter salt and trying to get these loose. Use anti-seize!

Use anti-seize on every fastener. Torque them to spec when tightening them.

You need to drop the steering links at the wheel to get the bar into position. When putting it back together the manual calls for 43 to 50 ft lbs.

I tried to install the front bar the Racing Beat way. My hat is off to anyone who can get that to work. Trying to get that to work removed a lot of paint off the sway bar. Also made me worry about how much damage I might be doing to the steering and pulleys on the engine.

I installed the rear and a Racing beat exhaust faster that I got the front in. The front would have gone in faster if I had listened to Team and MM right away.

Now is there a source for the plastic fasteners? I am running a few short now.

Y

Now is there a source for the plastic fasteners? I am running a few short now.

check autozone or advanced auto parts (or any chain store)

They have a large assortment of fasteners in different sizes and types.

two questions..

1. so the center "Racing beat" sticker will be right side up facing rear is correct?

2. on which sides of the "stops" do the bushings go on the rear bar?

1. yes

2. inside (stops go inside, bushings out)

it's fairly easy to install the front bar if you drop the lower radiator mounts off and install it from underneath and in without dropping the steering links, though I managed to get in prior to realizing I had been doing it the "hard" way by snaking it in through the side

you don't need the larger endlinks either, never had them and I've run much heavier bars

I managed to get in prior to realizing I had been doing it the "hard" way by snaking it in through the side

Yup, freaking hard as all hell. Its mainly because the lower radiator hose gets in the way and is hard as a rock. I spent a solid hour and a half swearing and cursing till it finally sat in there properly.

I want to give a huge thank you to this thread. I installed the Progress Tech Sway Bars on Sunday, and it was not a piece of cake for me but this thread helped me wonders.

I disconnected the sway bars from the endlinks, and on the last endlink (the driver side), the nut just would not bulge (I wasn't able to keep the hex key from moving with the nut). I put WD-40 and let it rest for a few hours and tried again but I just ended up rounding the nut. I decided to hammer things a little bit and I screwed up the HEX bit at the end of the bolt. So, I drilled and chiseled the nut away, hammered/screwdrivered the hex end of the bolt and now it fits the 5mm hex key again. I put anti-seize and re-torqued everything.
When I get to buying the Fat Cat Motorsports coilovers, I will definitely buy some adjustable endlinks and apply anti-seize everywhere lol.

Big thanks to all of you, this was a huge undertaking for me but I am still glad I did it and got to learn a lot more. That weekend, I also did transmission/diff flush, brake pads on all four corners, air filter (ahhh something stupidly easy :) ), brake fluid flush. I am all ready for the track now!