Thommino
10-05-2004, 01:50 AM
Here my switch
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Thommino 10-05-2004, 01:50 AM Here my switch rshan 10-05-2004, 06:07 PM Okay, I got my board today. Now I need some big help putting it together. I thought it would be more straight forward, but it looks more complex than I originally thought. I circled the parts that need to be soldered. There's a little Letter/Number combo in each one. Let me know if you can help me decipher them. J1 - Power Supply - which one is pos and which one is neg ? J2/7 - Audio In/Out - Do I need this ? What does this do ? J3 - Video In - This goes to a composite video. Is the outside the ground ? J4 - Sync Out - do I send the "NORM" to the S wire in "RGBS" ? Do I need to ground GND ? J5 - RGB OUT (HIGH) - Not used right ? I use (75) and not (high) correct ? J6 - RBG OUT (75) - R-R, G-G, B-B, GND to ground, right ? This will go to my switch, which will eventually go to my LCD, Correct ? JP1 - CENTER ? - Any ideas ? Do I want "+" or "G" or neither ? JP2 - Looks like (75) is short. I want to short this right ? R21 - Any ideas ? I have no clue what this does. bobclevenger 10-05-2004, 07:12 PM Okay, I got my board today. Now I need some big help putting it together. I thought it would be more straight forward, but it looks more complex than I originally thought. I circled the parts that need to be soldered. There's a little Letter/Number combo in each one. Let me know if you can help me decipher them. I'll do my best without taking my unit out of my car. J1 - Power Supply - which one is pos and which one is neg ? The centre contact is PROBABLY positive. Check the resistsance from the outer contact to one of the "ground" points on the board -- it ought to be zero ohms or damned close to it. If it's not, then check the centre contact to the "ground" point. Whichever one is zero ohms is the negative and the other one is the positive. Mine was hard-wired and didn't have the connector. You ought to be able to just look at the traces on the PC board and trace out which one goes to "ground". Ground is negative and the other is positive. J2/7 - Audio In/Out - Do I need this ? What does this do ? This isn't needed since you aren't running audio through the converter. Ignore it. J3 - Video In - This goes to a composite video. Is the outside the ground ? If you mean the outer shell of the connector on your cable to the DVD player, yes, that's ground. Connect both the inner conductor (to the "video in" point) and the outer shield braid (to the "ground" point by the "video in" point) very well and be careful not to have any bits of stray wire hanging loose or going across the terminal points. J4 - Sync Out - do I send the "NORM" to the S wire in "RGBS" ? Do I need to ground GND ? Yes, I believe the "NORM" is what you use. No, you don't have to use that ground point. We'll get to that later. J5 - RGB OUT (HIGH) - Not used right ? I use (75) and not (high) correct ? I think this is correct. J6 - RBG OUT (75) - R-R, G-G, B-B, GND to ground, right ? This will go to my switch, which will eventually go to my LCD, Correct ? Correct. The R, G, and B go to the normally open contacts of your relay. The sync goes there too. That's why you need a 4-pole relay. The ground leads just all tie together -- you don't need to switch them. Take ONE ground point from your board (the negative power lead will do, but I'd prefer to use a lead that is soldered to the board) and connect it to the negative wire from your battery (black wire on the nav connector IIRC). Don't connect the negative lead of the power connector if you use a ground point on the board -- ONE OR THE OTHER -- this is important. JP1 - CENTER ? - Any ideas ? Do I want "+" or "G" or neither ? JP2 - Looks like (75) is short. I want to short this right ? Leave both of these the way they are. If there are problems we can try different configurations, but it ought to work the way it comes. R21 - Any ideas ? I have no clue what this does. Ignore it. it's not used in this application. truemagellen 10-05-2004, 09:05 PM Okay, I got my board today. Now I need some big help putting it together. I thought it would be more straight forward, but it looks more complex than I originally thought. I circled the parts that need to be soldered. There's a little Letter/Number combo in each one. Let me know if you can help me decipher them. good luck with that you will have to adjust the frequency's too...which, from what antichristpm says...is hell bobclevenger 10-05-2004, 10:15 PM Not for going from a composite video (eg. DVD player) to an RGB video signal. Antichristpm was going from a VGA (or SVGA -- either way, from a computer) to an RGB signal. Different application. yunusyu 10-07-2004, 08:52 PM waht is the application...i read posts, but can not find a concrete answer SOME ONE PLEASE!! yunusyu 10-07-2004, 09:11 PM oh my god...is my search over: vga to rgbs http://www.converters.tv/products/converters/rgb_converters/40.html tell me yes PLEASE! now i need a switch...vga switch should work truemagellen 10-07-2004, 10:39 PM oh my god...is my search over: vga to rgbs http://www.converters.tv/products/converters/rgb_converters/40.html tell me yes PLEASE! now i need a switch...vga switch should work that seems to just be RGB (probably HV) not RGBs can someone confirm this thanks rshan 10-08-2004, 08:10 AM My application is for composite video to RGBS. Nothing fancy. Any ideas on a good place to get power ? SHould I just splice off the nav system power and ground ? bobclevenger 10-08-2004, 04:52 PM That's what I did. Just spliced off the power leads to the nav unit. No problems. Check my website. (in sig) thew 10-22-2004, 04:45 PM i am now selling the External input oem unit with my AV boxes. as a kit rshan 11-01-2004, 08:53 AM Took me a while to get around to it again, but I got my board to work yesterday. I spent about $35 stuff (switches, wiring, connectors) in addition to the $100 for the Composite to RGBS board. I put connectors on it so I can take it out easily. And I did have to short JP2, the one I wasn't sure about. I grounded on the Nav system. Same place as where the Nav ground plugs in. I had one issue - I took power off the Acc line. And I blew a few fuses. The Mazda3 has a 7.5Amp fuse as stock. I blew that. Then I blew a 15Amp fuse. Then a 20. Now I have a 30 in there. Is that bad ? Does it seem like I'm doing something wrong ? I thought the board only draws 1-2 amps, but I'm thinking it may draw more initially. truemagellen 11-01-2004, 09:24 AM something is wrong...the avelectronics box only take 3 watts I believe I can run the av box, dvd player, and more and the fuse doesn't blow the board you have may be dysfunctional thew 11-01-2004, 12:50 PM yes.. take that out ! you have an isuue ! yoy system should still run on the oem 7.5 amp.. you have a short. :( truemagellen 11-01-2004, 01:02 PM let me point out that rshan just bought some random board, this has nothing to do with the composite or svideo edition of the avelectronics switcher that thew at rx8garage.net sells bobclevenger 11-01-2004, 02:48 PM I'm using the same board that rshan is using. No, it should not draw that much current. Rshan, check out your wiring and each component individually -- you have a big problem there! No, it's not just initial surge current. rshan 11-03-2004, 02:05 PM Oh.... That's not good. rshan 11-03-2004, 02:06 PM How do I check to see how much current it is using ? Should I check out the resistance or something ? If there's a short, wouldn't there be a low resistance ? truemagellen 11-05-2004, 08:55 PM here you go... DIY finally, sorry it took so long: http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=44095 |