I changed my oil today over to mobil1 0W20
bought a fram toughguard filter
I drained the oil no probs, but when I tried to lossen the mazda filter, it WON'T BUDGE! After skinning my wrist and bloodying my knuckles with first a filter wrench then my bare hands all the while trying to avoid the hot engine parts, I was ready to punch out the tech who screwed it on extra tight and the engineer who designed with the "hide the filter at all cost!" goal in mind
THEN I read the manual and the manual says under the oil filter change part that You NEED to bring it into a dealership because they use "special tools" to tighten the filter. WTF? I thought the rule of 3/4 turn max after contact was universal??? why would they tighten it so much that you need special tools (I assume not just a filter wrench) other than forcing people to get it done at a dealer for $$$?
On the other hand, would ppl who've changed their filter give me any advice for next time? I've read the oil change for dumbies thread (ok so I guess that makes me worse than a dumbie :p ) and I used the filter crap wrench and extension but it just still won't budge!

 

There was a site posted here where you can buy the necessary tools for the oil filter, so you could just do it yourself and not have to depend on dealerships.

 

Put a piece of sandpaper between the cap wrench and the filter.

 

well I got all the tools that was listed in the thread but for some reason, maybe it's the angle of the shot but my filter is tilted to the passenger side by about 10 degrees and not straight up like in this photo???



so whenever I try to twist it, the cap slips off even with my flex joint and extension
I'll try the sand paper next time, though I'll tell my next service guy to NOT tighten it with a impact wrench

btw, it's counterclockwise to loosen right?? (ok flame away if I get this wrong...)

 

You shouldn't have trouble next time. It just comes from the factory really tight. Don't feel bad, I think we all struggled to get it loose.

 

Rotary Titus, yes counter clockwise. And yes, the RX8 may not have the worst filter location, but it sure isn't the best! Couple of extensions, a flex joint and some sort of spacer between the filter wrench and the filter and you will be set. Make sure you have the wrench down all the way on the filter. And, don't forget the rags to mop up the oil that will sit on the casting just below the filter.

 

Get yourself a type (or size) "F" oil filter wrench and save the skin on your knuckles.

 

some hint...tap the filter a few times with the socket wrench to help loosen(it works believe me) and steal a baby diaper from your friend with kids and wrap it around the base of the filter to catch oil.

 

While the OEM filter may be a bit of a challange to remove, this should not be the future norm. I have had excellent results with the following-
1) unsrew oil filler cap
2) tap center of filter sevral times
3) put cap filter wrench snugly over the filter
4) attach wrench extension to cap
5)*Turn (briefly) clockwise,( this forces filter seal to compress, releasing vacuum) then quickly turn counetr clockwise for easy removal

 

You could try the old RX4 trick. That is most mechanics didn't like all the oil that spilled out when the filter was unscrewed. So they quickly learned to first punch a hole in the top of the filter (off center to not hit the valve) to allow it to drain while the car was raised in the air and oil drained from thepan. Then when the car was lowered the fliter would be almost dry by then. A slight modification is to ram a sharp awl through the upper side and then you can use it to turn the filter. Watch out for tearing the metal and then cuting your hand. There was a lot of room to do this with the older rotarys.
I was stupid and didn't get the wrench before changing my oil on my new 8. The filter was real tight, but still was able to pierce the side and use the handle to rotate and remove the filter. Next time I will get the wrench as it will be easier, just have to watch the spilled oil (waiting overnight helps, but a hot filter is easier to remove than a cold, tight one.)

 

Ist trick, not mentioned so far - loosen oil filter before draining oil or punching a hole in the top! If you can't break it loose, then you aren't running clean oil through the dirty filter (or worse, stuck with a filter with a hole in it).

It's the Mazda factory, not dealers, that install the filters extra-tight. Once you get that first one off, then they're easy (normal) after that.

Regards,
Gordon

 

thanks guys, yea I've heard about the trick of puncturing the filter to get rid of the pressure? but I didn't wanna be stranded at my friend's house in case I broke it and it still won't come loose :p
I'll try taping the filter a few times the next time and sandpaper as a spacer.
and actually I've had like 3 services done (2000km, 5000km and 8000km) where they've changed the oil.... so if it's only that tight from the factory does that mean they never changed my filter the last 3 times???????

 

Having built numerous engines, you'd be amazed what is "hand tight" on an engine stand and what is hand tight in a car. I've had the same situation many times - go to do the first oil change, and the oil filter seems like it's welded in place!

I really don't fault Mazda for overtightening. Heck, at least you only have to deal with that the first oil change!

Dale

 

I didn't have much trouble but then maybe mine wasn't as tight. I used 2 extensions and a universal joint. I put the short 3" extension into the wrench, then the joint, and finally the long 6" extension. This seems to help insure a good perpendicular transfer of torque to the filter wrench.

Another good thing to line the wrench with is a bit of Saran Wrap.

My replacement filters say tighten an additional 1 1/6 turn after contact!

 

why the universal joint?

 

It is so you can get around the air intake trunk/firewall. The filter is kinda angled up and towards the firewall so you can't get a straight shot with the ratchet/extension.

 

That filter location is about gay. I mean........why the hell do car companies put all of the stuff you don't have to normally touch for normal maintenance right out in the open like the battery and the fuses, but can't figure out a way to design an oil filter location that is easy to get to and doesn't make oil spew all over when you take it off?

I have tightened my oil filters just about 1/2 to 3/4 turn after the gasket makes contact and have not had any problems with it coming loose between oil changes. I can usually grip it good enough to spin it off by hand when it comes time to remove it. I have also been puncturing a hole in top of it and letting it sit for a while to let as much oil drain out of it as possible and it has seemed to minimize the spillage.

 

Wandering a bit off topic..

The Toyota Echo has the oil filter and plug in a very easy to reach location. About two feet behind the bumper, both the plug and filter are located within 6 inches of each other. The filter's openning is straight up, so after spinning it off, excess oil simply drips into whatever catch you have. As ugly of an car the Echo is, I'm constantly amazed how good of a commuter appliance it is. Mazda could learn a thing or two from Toyota's ergonomics department.

 

I actually use this nifty little tool i've had since the 80's. It's like a strap wrench attachment for ratchets. Pretty much a seatbelt wedged into a 1/2" square rod, which you could use to wrap around the filter and start cranking with a breaker...

 

I think my GF's gyno uses something similar to that...


on another note is there any tricks to seeing the oil level line, can you paint the dipstick or something. It sure be hard to see the oil level.