I think I know what an on/off switch is for....after 35 years of being on the planet, but how does it apply to this. What happens if its off while it's hooked up?

It takes your car back to stock.

We were going to label the switch positions "0" (away from large connector) and "1" (toward large connector). It would mean two things, depending on how you think:
Stage 0 (stock) or Stage 1
0 = off 1 = on
We may still do this. Kind of Euopean, I think.

How about making a switch we could connect inside the car? I mean something we can control from inside the car? Could be in like one of the spots next to the DSC button.

a switch inside the car would be sweet. That probably wouldn't be too hard to fab.

How about a 3 position switch for the stage 2 kit. That way you could have 0 for stock 1 for stage 1 and 2 for stage 2. This inside the car would be awesome!!!!

I was thinking it but I didn't post for some reason. Good idea.

That was my first question upon seeing the switch.....

The good 'Zoomer explained that the signal would not go that far, and would pick up interference on the way. It is the MAF sensor data itself that the switch interupts - a very delicate signal.

'Zoomer did approve my compromise 'mod-to-the-Mod', a short extension of the four wires to a remote switch outside the ECU cover.......now it can be switched from under the hood, without any cover removal. I use it for demonstrations for other '8 owners.

The ignition needs to be 'off' when it is switched, otherwise the ECU will store a code, and possibly throw a CEL, so a cab switch would not be so great a convenience anyway.

Der "Stealthenheimer."

I guess that makes quite a bit of sense. Uh.. Hey guys why don't we start screwin' with the ECU while the powers on... I knew there was a reason I didn't ask that question. It was a good question though.

Heh. Well, I made a tester for the modules. Lots of little LEDs to comfirm we wired it correctly (we kind of think that's important ;).

When you plug in one of the connectors, the LEDs come on in a rather entertaining random flicker. I think if you did that to the PCM it would be very confused! ;)

As for the request for "Stage 0, stage 1, stage 2", that would require multi-map capability, and unfortunatly, this electronics can't do that. That's why it's under $1000+.

Originally posted by StealthTL
'Zoomer did approve my compromise 'mod-to-the-Mod', a short extension of the four wires to a remote switch outside the ECU cover.......now it can be switched from under the hood, without any cover removal. I use it for demonstrations for other '8 owners.Now THAT, is a GOOD idea. Hmmmm... ;)

You could use a relay though. I mean you don't want to extend the data to the cockpit, but you could set up a standard relay with a switch to turn off and on the switch on the piggy back.

Putting a switch inside the cockpit would tempt fate too readily.
I can see it now:
"Hmm lets go for a drive!" thinks Dumbass and starts the car.
"Hey, I forgot to turn my CZ box back on! I know, I have this cool little switch right here!"
Throws switch while the car is running.
The CEL comes on and the car might stall.
"Darn it!"
Restarts car. Might run like crap, might not, depends on other factors. Dumbass goes on his merry way...

Sometime later during a service stop...

The service manager comes out to the waiting room:
"Mr. Dumbass, I'm sorry to say we won't be able to cover this repair under warrantee."
"But, WHY?" Dumbass asks.
"Because the code in the PCM indicated a fault in the MAF which we traced to the little silver box you put in your PCM case under the hood. Not to mention the toggle switch and wires that extend from there to your driving position"

Doh!

You can write your own scenario...

still not understanding something......if the connectors go to a remapped ECU box, how does a switch on the mod get it back to stock when, what i understand as the necessary connectors are not connected to the stock box. Or is it mapped for stock and Stage 1 on the same ECU and you switch between the two?

The Stage 1 is an augmentation to the factory ECU. When it's on it intercepts the MAF and several other sensor readings before they get to the ECU, then it sends out it's own commands in lieu of the ECU to the fuel system. When the Stage 1 mod is off, the ECU is doing all of this. So switching from off to on while the car is running would confuse the ECU and really hose things up.

Off to On: ECU says "Hey! Wait a minute! What happened to the MAF and other sensors? AAAAAHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!" (Blue screen of death results)
On to Off: ECU says "Hey! Wait a minute! Whdid all these sensors come from? AAAAAHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!" (Blue screen of death results)

:D

Well, sorta. It might actually not bother the PCM if you switched it quickly enough. If you switched it when the PCM wasn't looking at the MAF it probaby wouldn't bother it. It only looks every few tens of mS (that's milliseconds, not milliSoft). Personally, I wouldn't want to tempt fate. Computers complain too much as it is. ;)

kick ass analogy there Omi...lol...BSoD...hehehe, although Maniac's is pretty funny too..i can see some of the "noobs" doing this...

"umm....does anyone smell smoke?"

Oh! That must be that real expensive smoke. I was told that people like CZ put that real expensive smoke inside the box. If you let it out, it don't work no more. :(

Do these switches still have to be rubberbanded into place as I think I remember reading in earlier threads?

No, they have an internal spring to hold them (in the toggle). On is toward the rear of the car or toward the large 122 pin connector. There is some friction in the switch internals, so if you break off the toggle it will probably stay in place as well, just not as reliably. Broken toggles worry me because some parts of the switch (the position fixing parts) then are free to move about inside it. I worry they may short the switch terminals. All that would do is give you a MIL (known as CEL) not damage anything.

No, they have an internal spring to hold them (in the toggle). On is toward the rear of the car or toward the large 122 pin connector. There is some friction in the switch internals, so if you break off the toggle it will probably stay in place as well, just not as reliably. Broken toggles worry me because some parts of the switch (the position fixing parts) then are free to move about inside it. I worry they may short the switch terminals. All that would do is give you a MIL (known as CEL) not damage anything.