I emailed them tonight based on another thread and got a response about an hour later:



The size(s) that you need for your application is as follows:

Front.....SB8100
Rear......SB7100

When ordering Speed Bleeder consider ordering the Bleeder Bag and Bleeder Hose Combo.
The Bleeder Bag resembles an IV bag that is used in hospitals and the hose is silicone tubing that is specifically
sized to fit our Speed Bleeders. It is flexible, won't fall off while bleeding and is unaffected by brake fluid.
The Bleeder Bag and Hose Combo prevents an unnecessary mess. Both are reusable.

The Combo is priced at $6.00 and is a great value.

Speed Bleeders can be ordered at https://www.speedbleeder.com/order.htm

Thanks for your interest in Speed Bleeder.
Michael Sulwer

...i'm unfamiliar...

this is for brakes??

Yup - check out that web link, it shows a cross-section of the Speedbleeder bleed screw. It incorporates a spring-loaded check ball which allows brake bleeding to be a one-person operation. You install one bleed screw on each caliper, replacing the OEM bleed screws (and you can also install one in the clutch slave cylinder, if you want to bleed the clutch). They've been popular in the Miata community for many years, and work extremely well. I have a set on my Miata.

Regards,
Gordon

So these have a following in the miata community?

Most of the "popular word" I've heard about one-man bleeders is that people think they don't work, but I don't think said people have ever tried them either. Wouldn't it still kind of be a two-person job, in that one person would inspect the fluid in the lines and top off the fluid in the reservoir if need be?

When you unscrew bleeder valve screws, does any fluid leak out at all? Just curious.

This would be perfect right now in that I can't seem to get a wrench on and turn my lower clutch bleeder screw, but I can get to the valve itself.

Syntrix, would you make this a sticky, please? I've used Speedbleeders for ~ 4 years and they really do make life better.

Another plus w/the Speedbleeder is that the thread coating keeps the bleed screw from becoming stuck in the caliper. If you've ever broken off a rarely-used bleeder screw trying to get it loose, you know what I mean.

Also, for the serious enthusiast, these make bleeding every year or less very simple!

If you do replace them, here's a tip:

Take a rubber glove and open the brake fluid resevior. Stretch it over the top to make an air tight seal. Put the cap back on, not super tight, but firm.

The purpose here is that less fluid will leak out of the valve when it's replaced. Same could be applied to installation of stainless lines. The vacuum will result in less mess for sure, and I've done this on MANY cars with GREAT results!

I'm going to order some next week!

Here's an email I got back from them. Don't want to step on any advertising toes, but I think they are more specialty.....


Hello,
I can offer your club members a 10% discount. They will have to ask for the discount to get it. All they have to do is ask.
Thanks
Michael Sulwer

Originally posted by blizz81
So these have a following in the miata community?

Yep!

Most of the "popular word" I've heard about one-man bleeders is that people think they don't work, but I don't think said people have ever tried them either. Wouldn't it still kind of be a two-person job, in that one person would inspect the fluid in the lines and top off the fluid in the reservoir if need be?

Most of those one-man kits have some sort of hose that fits over the regular bleed screws - that still lets too much air get back around the threads of the screw or in the process. The Speedbleeders use s special thread coating to prevent any air leaking back around the threads, and have a check ball inside the screw itself. They do work very well.

If you know about how many strokes of the pedal it takes to flush out the old brake fluid, and know how many strokes it takes before needing to refill the master cylinder, then it's really easy to do with just the one person. Loosen the screw, attatch a tube for the drain bottle to catch the brake fluid, then go step on the brake pedal 10 or 15 times, just like regular brake bleeding (without the "open"...(press and hold)..."close"...(release)..."open"... etc cycle for two people). Then tighten the Speedbleeder screw, refill the master cylinder, and move on to the next wheel. It's very quick.

When you unscrew bleeder valve screws, does any fluid leak out at all? Just curious.

Nope, none leaks out, and no air gets in. I guess if you unscrewed the screw too far, but you'd nearly have to remove them for this to be a problem. They are very effective.

Regards,
Gordon

Mark me down as another happily satisfied Speedbleeder user.

Me three.
I had them on the MX-3, I have them on the Miata and I will install them when the time comes to bleed the brakes on the RX-8.
They work EXACTLY as advertised.

Same here- used them for the last couple years on my Miata for both the brakes and the clutch slave cylinder (I'm curious to see if there's a speedbleeder for our RX8's clutch as well) and they work as advertised- completely one-man job and allows no air back into the system. It really makes you not dread the annual fluid refresh... and they're cheap!

When I order my set they told me that I would need the following sizes:

Front: M8 x 1.0
Rear: M7 x 1.0
Clutch: M7 x 1.0

F/R match the part numbers at the top.

Clutch is the same as the rears.

So for a full set:

SB8100 x 2
SB7100 x 3

Sounds like a great idea, but I have to ask you guys (Gord, Speedracer, Syntrix)
did you ever order and install them?

I did.

The sizes are close, but no cigar.

Fronts are not SB8100, they are SB7100.

Clutch IS SB7100

However, the back calipers take some kind of 10mm thread.

I have contacted 'Mr.Bleeder', and await a reply.....
.
.
.
doc

Summit Racing (http://www.summitracing.com) you get 2 in a pack for $9.88

They are the Russell Brand. They have 13 different sizes on the website to choose from.

I hate admitting this but I still have my Speed Bleeders sitting on the bench and have not gotten around to installing them.

I hate admitting this but I still have my Speed Bleeders sitting on the bench and have not gotten around to installing them.

Understandable. I wouldn't swap them out just to do it for no reason. WEll, unless of course it was a rainy day and I wa bored. :D

Nice to have though when the time arises.

Understandable. I wouldn't swap them out just to do it for no reason. WEll, unless of course it was a rainy day and I wa bored. :D

Nice to have though when the time arises.

make sure to stock up on "just in case" DOT 4 or 5 brake fluid too. ;)

I've had them on my Miata for years. They work great and really make it convienient before track days. All you need is some aquarium tubing and a jar to go along with them. I'll get a set for the 8 soon.

I never got them, but the info I posted was from emailing SB's directly. Sorry it has changed, but was just sharing their info that they sent me.

Mr. Bleeder is, shall we say, 'tardy' when it comes to replying to a customer problem......

I have e-mailed him twice in the last two weeks, quite politely, informing him of his misleading information, and asking how I can get the 10mm screws I need.

Nothing, not a form letter, not an "I'll get back to you," nothing.

I would be hesitant to recommend his products, maybe go with the 'Russell' bleeders.
.
.
.
doc

You might want to buy your 'bleeders' from someone other than the Speedbleeders site.

It is now a month since I installed the ones that DID fit, and notified them that their database was radically wrong about the RX-8. No acknowledgement, no emails returned, just nothing.

Will try to find some locally to fit the rears, but they sure as hell won't be Speedbleeder brand........
.
.
.
doc :(

Just me, still whining.

Still no acknowledgement that they screwed up, nothing.

Maybe your emails or their responses aren't reaching destination? Have you tried phoning them? This is a selfish question since I was thinking about getting the speedbleeders.

Which ones did you order that did NOT fit? I just ordered the SB7100 for my clutch slave cylinder the other day.

Last weekend I installed a set of stainless brake lines and put in the Speed Bleeders that would fit. The fronts are M8 x 1.0 (SB8100) and the rears look like they are M10 x 1.0 (SM1010). They worked great and a speed up the process of bleeding the brakes. Highly recommended! :D

I'm looking to install speedbleeders on the clutch line and all four brakes and have looked all through this thread and several others but am still confused as to the correct part numbers to order. Can someone who has actually installed these parts please post the part numbers you used?

I emailed them 2 days ago and received this response:

Front size is SB8100. I don't have a listing for the rear. My guess is SB7100. The RX-7 and the Miata and most Mazdas take a 8mm in the front and a 7mm in the rear.

Thanks,
Whitney



So which one fits??? It seems someone installed the SB8100 on the front and it worked and someone installed the SB7100 and it worked :confused:

So they don't know, and now they are GUESSING.....

I wrote and told them that what they recommended us to buy was WRONG, and not only do they ignore me and my e-mails, now they GUESS at the right size!

If you buy those 7mm plugs, you will be in the same position as me: they don't fit, and SPEEDBLEEDERS INC don't care.

Infriggincredible!

S

that's the sucks! I know we discussed this a long time ago, and I got the info from them directly.

If they haven't fitted it, then they should just say so.

Then tell you, ship it out at cost with a report afterwards... how hard is that?

Awesome product, bad support :(

The rears are M10x1.0. I'll have to dig out my receipt to find the actual part number but I believe that it is SB1010.

So to recap:
Front - M8 x 1.0 - SB8100
Rear - M10 x 1.0 - SB1010
Clutch - M7 x 1.0 - SB7100

Just wanted to post a confirmation that the part numbers Speed Racer listed above are indeed correct. I just got done replacing my clutch line and all 4 brake lines and the speed bleeders worked perfectly.

I did have a small problem, when I ordered the bleeders I specified the SB8100's for my front brakes and asked them to double check my selection. The folks at speed bleeder substituted SB7100's which turned out to be the wrong part. The good news is that they were very nice when I called them to tell them about the mix up, they apologized and offered to send me out the correct parts at no charge. Can't ask for much better customer service than that.

Does anybody know the size of the bleeder screw on the master cylinder?

(thanks Polak for the good pic)

I'm pretty sure that I used a SB7100 on the master cylinder.

Hey guys first time bleeder here (let the jokes begin), least i won't be as bad as Imp :bootyshak
This is what I want to do lemme see if I got this right:

I want to replace the clutch line to a SS one, replace the brake (http://showthread.php?p=1146260&posted=1) lines to SS as well (it’s for a brake kit).

So first I want to flush the system completely or at least 98% of the fluid. So I open the master cylinder and attach a tube to each of my brake lines go in the car and pump the brake peddle until there is no resistance and more afterwards for good measure.
Now I disconnect the clutch slave line, and pump the clutch peddle till all the fluid is drained, I have a DIY for this thx to B-Nez.

At this point is there any reason there should be fluid in the master cylinder, if so how do I empty it?

Now that the brake lines should be fully evacuated of fluid and only have air in them I can uninstall them. I can also install the SS clutch line.

Does anyone have a picture of where I can get a good reach on the brake lines up in the firewall?

With the new lines installed, I attach speed bleeders to all four lines and the clutch line and have tubes from there going into containers.
Next fill the master cylinder up to full put a latex glove over the MC, and then pump the brake peddle followed by the clutch peddle, and collecting any fluid that comes out. Making sure that all the lines are submerged under some fluid refill the MC and put the glove back over, then pump again.

Can I reuse some of the fluid emptying into the containers here since most of the stock DOT3 was evacuated the first time? Or is that bad?

At this point all air should be evacuated from the lines but what about the MC will it have any air in it if I kept it above 3/4 full and had the latex glove over it?

If I do have to bleed the MC what is the procedure? Attach all the brake lines to the calipers and the clutch slave and then attach a speed bleeder to the nut on the MC and then pump the brakes (http://showthread.php?p=1146260&posted=1) ?

generally you try to avoid getting air into the MC piston unless you're changing the MC, same goes for the rest of the system. I never empty the old fluid to the point of inducing air into it. Just get the MC reservoir low, add some fluid, pump it out, and repeat using enough fluid until I'm satisfied that the system is reasonably flushed. It usually takes about a liter/quart if you do it right. This is prticularly true with the ABS controller. If you have air in there you'll probably have to refer to the service manual for the procedure to bleed it out.

The typical procedure for bleeding a MC is to disconnect the brake lines exiting it, install fittings with flexible hoses, position the flexible tubes to empty back into the MC reservoir, and then pump the pedal until the air is cleared. Once there's no more air dumping into the reservoir you can disconnect the hoses and install the brake lines to begin filling the rest of the system.

Also, Speedbleeders won't work if there is excessive air in the system because the air will compress rather than opening the Speedbleeder spring valve. You'll need to put the regular bleeders in and get fluid into all the piping, hoses, and calipers and then swap the Speedbleeders in to complete the final bleeding. Thereafter you'll be able to pop open the Speedbleeders and pump fluid through them for flushing/bleeding.

generally you try to avoid getting air into the MC piston unless you're changing the MC, same goes for the rest of the system. I never empty the old fluid to the point of inducing air into it. Just get the MC reservoir low, add some fluid, pump it out, and repeat using enough fluid until I'm satisfied that the system is reasonably flushed. It usually takes about a liter/quart if you do it right. This is prticularly true with the ABS controller. If you have air in there you'll probably have to refer to the service manual for the procedure to bleed it out.
Is this how you will be installing your Racing Brake big brake kit? I thought that a complete flushed system will be the best way to go about it that way you won't have fluid going all over the place when you dissconnecting the rubber lines.

Also, Speedbleeders won't work if there is excessive air in the system because the air will compress rather than opening the Speedbleeder spring valve. You'll need to put the regular bleeders in and get fluid into all the piping, hoses, and calipers and then swap the Speedbleeders in to complete the final bleeding. Thereafter you'll be able to pop open the Speedbleeders and pump fluid through them for flushing/bleeding.
Eh i don't have regular bleeders will 5 friends holding their thumbs on the ends of the 4 brake lines and 1 clutch line work just as well and then once most of the air is gone having them all put on speed bleeders? This is what I planned on doing after seeing how a speedbleeder works.... Or just waiting for gravity to do some of the work?

Yawn time for bed.

Is this how you will be installing your Racing Brake big brake kit? I thought that a complete flushed system will be the best way to go about it that way you won't have fluid going all over the place when you dissconnecting the rubber lines.


Eh i don't have regular bleeders will 5 friends holding their thumbs on the ends of the 4 brake lines and 1 clutch line work just as well and then once most of the air is gone having them all put on speed bleeders? This is what I planned on doing after seeing how a speedbleeder works.... Or just waiting for gravity to do some of the work?

Yawn time for bed.

Speedbleeders were made for 1 person brake bleeding. I think having 5 people help you kind of defeats the purpose.

When I changed to SS lines and speedbleeders, first I did the clutch line, the top nut was a pita and bled that correctly getting new fluid in there by refilling the brake fluid container when it got low. I used an oil pan to catch the brake fluid in the line.

When I changed to SS brake lines I put an oil pan under the lines when I took them off, put on the speedbleeders and it worked fine.

I did the whole job by myself in about 3 hours, some of the nuts were really stuck on there, espically if you have a lot of road dirt stuck up in there.

So your suggesting that i just mix whatever new fluid i have with the old OEM stuff and then bleed out the OEM stuff untill I start seeing the new fluid? I guess this would spell less problems in the end then filling the system with all that air from flushing the OEM stuff out.... but is it as effective or will I not noticed a difference?

yes, just get it low and then go with the new fluid. Start on the longest leg which should be the right rear and flush it out until clear, making sure the reservoir doesn't go low, then work through the rest of them doing the same.

Did you get the speedbleeder bag/hose combo? This makes it really slick, you don't have to worrry about knocking over or spilling brake fluid with this, just pump it into the sealed bag:

http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/product/BAGANDHOSECOMBO

polak, I am not an expert and I am sorry if this is redundent or stating the obvious but it sounds (reads) to me like you are looking to bleed everything at once. A variation on the TeamRX8 input is what I do.

Bleed the MC down, add more fluid, bleed it down, add more fluid, then in sequence do the right rear, left rear, right front, left front and then the MC again topping up the MC along the way.

Be careful not to bleed your MC down too far such that it sucks air into the lines. That is a PITA... Been there done that... :spank: Keep topping it up...

This should do a good job of flushing most of your old fluid out. This is the same procedure you should use with or without the speedbleeders. They only allow you to do this job by yourself.

Another tip I have read here... If you switch to ATE Super Blue you will more easily see the 'new' fluid coming out of each brake. Others here have suggested switching back and forth from the Super Blue to 'standard' honey colored DOT 4 (if you track\AutoX) fluid...

Remember not to get any brake fluid on your paint. :nono:

OK, so I got some Hawk HPS pads and some speedbleeders for Christmas, and I've got a DE event coming up this weekend.

Had a local brake shop (hint: they specialize in CHECKing your BRAKES) install the pads, install the speedbleeders, and flush out the old brake fluid with the Motorcraft stuff. Would have done it myself this weekend, but the wife had other plans.

OK, so I pick up the car late Saturday afternoon right at closing time, and the pedal is spongy. I take the car out later Saturday night and bed-in the brakes the way Hawk suggests.

Bottom line: the pedal is spongy, but when the brakes do engage, they stop the car much faster than the stock pads did. The car's not dangerous for street driving, but I'm a little worried about this weekend's track event.

I think the guys at the shop forgot to bleed the master cylinder. Shouldn't that be a standard part of replacing the brake fluid/bleeding the brakes?

If they screwed that up, should I be worried that there is air in the clutch line as well? Hard to see how it could have worked its way in there, and it feels fine, but you never know.

Also, I have one SpeedBleeder #7100 screw left. Would that fit the master cylinder? I was going to use it for a SS clutch line, but that may have to wait.

Thanks for any input.

-El Kabong

Yes SB7100 does fit the MC. I wouldn't do a track event on spongy brakes. Bleed the system again yourself or under your watch MC-RR-LR-RF-LF-MC. If still spongy check the SB to make sure they are in all the way. leaking brake fluid by the wheels would be a sign of this.

Thanks for the suggestion - I've printed out the page from the service manual which details that you have to bleed the MC before and after, andI've gotta go make sure they do it right tonight.

I mean I hate treating the mechanic like he's an idiot but WTF? the pedal is clearly spongy. And all they do is brakes! But for sure no track event unless the brakes are right.

And there's no brake fluid under the car. I'll step hard on the pedal 20 or 30 times before I pull out of my parking space this afternoon, so I can see if I spot any.

I mean I hate treating the mechanic like he's an idiot but WTF?
You must have missed the post from the guy that was getting an oil change and the tech forgot to put the oil filter back on.

Hey guys haven't bled mine yet but, but I'm having an issue when under mild to hard braking from 130mph-160mph I'm getting a pretty hard vibration transmits to the steering wheel. Kinda feels like the abs kicking in for no reason, you think this is a result of pretty old and hard used fluid, or something more serious like warped rotors?

Pull the rotors and have them turned Mark. That's what it sounds like to me and this way you will at least know if it is or not.

Hey guys haven't bled mine yet but, but I'm having an issue when under mild to hard braking from 130mph-160mph I'm getting a pretty hard vibration transmits to the steering wheel. Kinda feels like the abs kicking in for no reason, you think this is a result of pretty old and hard used fluid, or something more serious like warped rotors?

Mark, where the hell are you doing 130MPH and what's up with 160MPH????

Mark, where the hell are you doing 130MPH and what's up with 160MPH????
On closed circuts of course :nono:, I've touched 159mph on a pretty level surface with probably a bit of a tail wind and a stuck shut VDI (suprized me too).

I just drove back down to New Orleans on Friday, their ain't no law in alabama and most of mississippi and I had to amuse myself with something after the normally 21hour drive (did it in 18 tho) and hell I-59/I-20 toward new orleans is straight for miles and their ain't to many fokes traveling those ways.

I've noticed the problem for a while now, but with higher speed the shake is more noticable.

I doubt that you warped the rotors....I've had mine smokin hot with no problems. More than likely you have uneven pad deposits on the rotors....I'd try really aggressive bedding and see if it helps

Polak....what symptoms did you have from the stuck VDI???

Also...speedbleeders rock :rock:

Nothing other then my dyno curve didn't have a dip at 7250 and my dyno peeked at 195rwhp instead of the 210 it probably coulda got with a working VDI. I'm anxious to fix the problem, but it seems there is no quick fix as you can't get to that part of the upper intake manifold without taking out the motor..... ?

How did they diagnose this....just from the dyno?? Or did the WDS show it??

How did they diagnose this....just from the dyno?? Or did the WDS show it?? Do you know for a fact that a WDS tool can see it? If so that would make my trip to asking the dealer to fix it alot easier, Just the dyno see here: http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=1149930&postcount=171

The rears are M10x1.0. I'll have to dig out my receipt to find the actual part number but I believe that it is SB1010.

So to recap:
Front - M8 x 1.0 - SB8100
Rear - M10 x 1.0 - SB1010
Clutch - M7 x 1.0 - SB7100

Before I order there are some conflicting sizes for the SB in this thread was just wondering if anyone else has confirmed that the sizes above are correct.

thanks

MC and Clutch are the same...order 1 M8 1 M7 and 1 M10 and you get enough to do all :D:

Get the bleeding bag as well...it's worth the money :D:

I am getting ready to do some brake work and I am going to get speedbleeders to help with this. I have a couple of questions first...

If I dont do anything to the clutch or clutchline do I need to bleed it?

Also, if I change the brakelines do I have bleed the mastercylinder or can I just bleed in the order of RR-LR-RF-LF?

If I dont do anything to the clutch or clutchline do I need to bleed it? So long as the fluid reservoir doesn't run out, no you do not have to bleed the clutch.

Also, if I change the brakelines do I have bleed the mastercylinder or can I just bleed in the order of RR-LR-RF-LF? The M/C is the easiest one to do and Mazda states the order is MC-RR-LR-RF-LF-MC, why take shortcuts on brake work?

Thanks Expo!

I wanted to make sure because I don't want to take any shortcuts with my baby!!

Just an idiot question here, but what do you folks do with the old brake fluid... ??

I have several containers of old brake fluid. One of the shops I deal with accepts old coolant and batteries so at some point I'm gonna try them. Look around for a small shop, preferrably one you deal with, and see it they will take it.

I have a couple of questions.

Do you put back the stock bleeders after using the speedbleeder or can you just leave the speedbleeders in?

I am changin my clutch line and ordered the sb7100s.

Does it matter to get the stainless steel speedbleeders or are the cheaper ones just as good?

I have a couple of questions.

Do you put back the stock bleeders after using the speedbleeder or can you just leave the speedbleeders in?

I am changin my clutch line and ordered the sb7100s.

Does it matter to get the stainless steel speedbleeders or are the cheaper ones just as good?
The speedbleeders replace the OEM bleeder screws and there is no reason to remove them after installation because they serve the same purpose as the OEM screws, only better.

As far as stainless vs. the "cheaper ones", I purchased mine at SummitRacing.com because the price was significantly lower than price on the SpeedBleeder web site. They are manufactured by Russell and are made of "steel", and they work just fine. If you can get a stainless steel version for few bucks more it might be worth it. Otherwise, go with the plain steel version.

You don't even really need speedbleeders; all you need to do is run the hose up several inches higher than the caliper and then down to the bottom of the catch container. The hose above the caliper stays full of fluid, preventing air from backing into the caliper. There's no need to close the bleed screw until your done, just pump and release the brake pedal gently.

bump because i ran into problems installing speed bleeders

i installed the bleeder onto the master cylinder fine, but accidentally overfilled the resevoir as i was topping it off, spilling quite a bit of brake fluid into the engine bay, had to get a bucket of water to quickly rinse it down.

once the bleeding of the MC is done, i went to the right rear caliper. did anyone have problem with the speed bleeder that, even after it is completely tightened down, it still bleeds when you step on the brake pedal? i couldn't close off the bleeder completely, so i ended up just putting the original bleeder back on and let it 'gravity bleed' for a few minute, actually worked out OK.

then i just stopped doing bleeding work and cleaned up, because i have to go somewhere now.

but yea, my question is, anyone have problems with the bleeder NOT functioning as advertised?

Can you confirm the SB part numbers you have?

I haven't had that problem with speedbleeders. Are you sure you got the correct size? Compare the speedbleeder with the OEM bleeder screw to verify that the length of the threaded part is the same on both. Only other obvious thing is that this particular speedbleeder may be faulty. Try a known good speedbleeder in that caliper to see if that particular speedbleeder screw is, in fact, faulty.

these were the Russell speed bleeders from summitracing.com, sizes are:

7mm x 1.0 (for MC)
8mm x 1.0 (for fronts, haven't installed yet)
10mm x 1.0 (for rears, one wouldn't open no matter how much i loosen it, and one wouldn't close even after i tighten it all the way down to the last thread

and even better news, the MC bleeder started leaking when i was taking the car for a drive, i quickly came home and switched back to OE bleeder... wtf

i'm SO returning these failures of speed bleeders back to Summit Racing :mad:

but through this ordeal i found an alternative to speed bleeders for one-man brake bleeding: gravity bleeding.

you just open the MC resevoir, loosen the bleeder you want to bleed, and let gravity pull the fluid through. yes it's slow, but so far it has worked PERFECTLY when i reinstalled the 2 OE bleeders back on...

I tried to order all the bleeders from Summit, but they didn't have one of the sizes we are required, are you sure all the sizes were correct? I want to say it was the front 8x1.0, 35 that they had available, but we need 8x1.0, 34.

I ended up ordering the speed bleeders from speedbleeders.com, but two weeks later I haven't heard anything from them yet. Just sent an email and am looking for a reply as to my status.

Ok so after reading through all of this thread......

Does Anybody know the correct speed bleeder sizes for a Mazda RX8?

I can verify that the SB7100 works well for the clutch line.

What about front brakes?

what about the rear brakes?

what about the master cylinder?

SpeedRacer posted the correct sizes:

Front - M8 x 1.0 - SB8100
Rear - M10 x 1.0 - SB1010
Clutch - M7 x 1.0 - SB7100

Speedracer and atl8 have the sizes right, don't go by the Speedbleeder website - they still don't list the RX-8, and doughheads on the phone just guess "I'm pretty sure it's the same as the RX-7....."

Close, but no cigar - the SB7100s they sold me for the rears don't fit, should be the SB1010.

...and sending them email is pointless. :o:


S

FYI, Amazon now sells speedbleeders, and cheap.

Just installed mine today, and am having half pedal trouble too, any suggestions? Seems that the pedal has to be about halfway down before getting any engagement on the brakes....

What order did you bleed in?

fl,fr,rl,rr.

The second time I bled them I don't remember what order I did it in.

fl,fr,rl,rr.

The second time I bled them I don't remember what order I did it in.Correct Bleeding order is MC, RR, LR, RF, LF, MC.

Just installed mine today, and am having half pedal trouble too, any suggestions? Seems that the pedal has to be about halfway down before getting any engagement on the brakes....

Did you change your pads, too? I did a full brake job a couple weeks ago- speedbleeders all around, Hawk Ceramics, synthetic fluid, and caliper painting (ok, so that last one isn't necessarily part of the "job", but the opportunity was there, and I took it! : )

Anyway, I noticed the ceramic pads don't have the same braking threshold as the OEM's... the stop just as fast or faster, but they don't bite as quick... it seems to be much more linear. And yes, I bedded them again per TireRack and Hawk's process (that was fun). And then I get in my XC90 and almost made my wife hit the dashboard because of it's very grippy monster front brakes.

Also, I saw earlier in the thread a mention of a leaking speedbleeder- the bleeder on my master cylinder has a very, very slight leak... has anyone had luck getting them replaced for free? For me it's really the annoyance of having to replace and re-bleed the damn system again more than the $7 or whatever.

fl,fr,rl,rr.

The second time I bled them I don't remember what order I did it in.


Yeah, as Expo said MC first, from there any easy way to remember it is to go furthest from the MC and work your way back to it to bleed it one last time.

finallly installed all bleeders today. did the master, brakes, & clutch. all went well...

order of bleeding:
master, rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver, master, clutch, & master again for good measure.

it takes lots of pumps on the pedal to get all the old fluid out. i pumped at least 8-10 times at each bleeder & still only used about 3/4 of a can of ATE super blue.

the clutch bleeder is a BITCH to get out & install... i could not get a ratchet to fit in there...

in the end i must say it all went great other than the fact that the speed bleeders don't screw in all the way. other than that... GREAT stuff!

I had a rental yesterday during my recall work and found that my RX8's brake pedal felt like crap compared to the Pontiac Grand Prix I had driven all day. I considered ordering speed bleeders, which I have used before, but was too impatient.

So, I just bled the RX8 brakes for the first time, and thought I would share a few things:

First, I have an '05 base 6MT, and like others here, was not able to find a master cylinder bleeder screw. Either I am blind, dumb, or there isn't one there. My MC definately looks different than the one posted in a picture earlier in this post.

I bled the first caliper until the new fluid came through (took about 25 pumps with reservoir refills every 8 pumps or so), then went in order through the four calipers, and finished with the right rear a second time to make sure it had fresh fluid.

Second, I went with TeamRX8's suggestion that speed bleeders are not necessary and just used the stock bleeders by myself, and the result was great. I just opened the bleeder screw as little as possible to allow flow, hooked up the bleeder tube, and made sure to bring the pedal back up slowly after each pump. For the final pump on each caliper, I depressed the pedal with a board that could be wedged against the driver's seat and closed the screw before removing the board.

I put speed bleeders on my STi and have to say that they didn't make it much easier than what I just did today.

Brake pedal feels MUCH better.

two part numbers from summit web site

35 mm length http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=RUS-639560

33 mm length http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RUS%2D639630&N=700+400081+115&autoview=sku

which length or does it matter? they are both 10mm x 1

First, I have an '05 base 6MT, and like others here, was not able to find a master cylinder bleeder screw. Either I am blind, dumb, or there isn't one there. My MC definately looks different than the one posted in a picture earlier in this post. MC changed between year 04 and 05, for what reason i don't know.

Does anyone that has the Racing Brake BBK know what size speedbleeder goes with it?

sorry to bring up an old thread. im about to buy some and want to make sure on the sizing. I have an 04.

a) on the speed bleeder site there are two 7100's. A 7100 and a 7100S. Which is the right one?

b) 8100 is fine

c) then for the 1010 there are two again. 1010 and 1010S.......

appreciate the help

When I did mine it was as follows. Note the S in the code denotes Short
a) 7100S
b) 8100
c) 1010

I made a mistake in ordering the first time on item c) and it was too short and wouldn't properly close off.

I would also recommend picking up the bleeder bag and hose , for $6 it just makes it easier.

bump - what is the correct part number for clutch/MC? 7100 or 7100S ?

bump - what is the correct part number for clutch/MC? 7100 or 7100S ?

depends on what year of car you have :(

04 6mt?

I'm pretty sure its just plain 7100 with no S

I have it on my clutch and I dont remember it being short

cool, thanks!

bump because i ran into problems installing speed bleeders

i installed the bleeder onto the master cylinder fine, but accidentally overfilled the resevoir as i was topping it off, spilling quite a bit of brake fluid into the engine bay, had to get a bucket of water to quickly rinse it down.

once the bleeding of the MC is done, i went to the right rear caliper. did anyone have problem with the speed bleeder that, even after it is completely tightened down, it still bleeds when you step on the brake pedal? i couldn't close off the bleeder completely, so i ended up just putting the original bleeder back on and let it 'gravity bleed' for a few minute, actually worked out OK.

then i just stopped doing bleeding work and cleaned up, because i have to go somewhere now.

but yea, my question is, anyone have problems with the bleeder NOT functioning as advertised?


Up from the dead. As for the rear caliper bleeder which would not seal when tightened, did you use the 33 or 35mm size?

For those using the Russel Bleeders with success, did you all use the 33mm or 35mm M10x1.0?

Up from the dead. As for the rear caliper bleeder which would not seal when tightened, did you use the 33 or 35mm size?


i don't remember, i'll have to dig up the receipt/online invoice...

^
Much appreciated.

found it.

according to my email invoice, this is the 10mm x 1.0 speedbleeder i bought for the rear calipers:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RUS%2D639630&N=700+0&autoview=sku

it's 33mm in length.

found it.

according to my email invoice, this is the 10mm x 1.0 speedbleeder i bought for the rear calipers:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RUS%2D639630&N=700+0&autoview=sku

it's 33mm in length.

Thanks!

I think the problem which you encountered was that the 33mm length was too short. No matter how much you tightened, it was not long enough to plug the seal. I ordered the 35mm Russell from Summit. I tried out for size a standard 35mm bleeder from Autozone and it worked. I'll report back to confirm if the 35mm Russell bleeder speed Bleeder worked fine.

Thanks again.

My turn: I'm pretty sure I ordered SB7100 (04 MT). When I went to put it on, I couldn't find the clutch bleeder. I compared it to (what I think is) my master cylinder bleeder (right side of the engine bay, staring right at you next to the fluid reservoir, and it was MUCH shorter.

1) Is what I was looking at, in fact, the master cylinder bleeder?

2) If so, do I need the "7100S" part for that?

3) Someone said the clutch and MC bleeder are the same size - are they? Or is one "S" and the other not?

The MC bleeder is right on the MC on the driver side of the car, right underneath the brake fluid reservoir.

The clutch bleeder I believe is right next to the oil filter

OK, so I'm definitely looking at the right two things. Next part of the question: do these, in fact, use exactly the same part? Either of them use the "S" part?

Clutch - 7100
MC - 7100S

'04 MT

BTW did my first bleeding. Thx to all for your help.

Made a couple of noob errors like not tightening the bleeder fully on one of my wheels. I thought I had it tight enuff and put a decent amount of force so the bleeder felt like it was fully set. Guess I didn't put enuff cuz of concern of over torquing which could cause damage. Carefully I applied additonal torque to stop the leak. For some reason on this wheel the OEM nipple required more force to remove then the other three.

I suggest after you bleed and re-tighten the bleeder, press firmly on your brakes and check for leaks b4 you go to the next wheel. I know, maybe overkill, but it's way easier to access the bleeder with the wheel off.

Now my question. When bleeding the clutch, I think I let the resevoir go down too low. I followed the MC, RR, LR, FR, C, FL, MC order. Now my clutch feels spongey, but to a very slight degree, when changing gears. In neutreal my clutch feels smooth. Brakes feel solid.

I re-bled the clutch again. I did notice very small bubbles, almost like the size of sand granules, in the tube. Ran out of brake fluid. Not sure I got all the small bubbles. Clutch still feels the same.

Should I:

(A) Let it be and see if the spongey feeling goes away? Not sure if this is safe.

(B) Bleed only the clutch again (or clutch & MC)?

(C) Start over and bleed complete system?

When you say you ran out of fluid, how low did you let it go?

The first time bleeding the clutch, I think the resevoir went below the min level, but not completely empty. I think it went below the point where the clutch gets fed if you get what I mean. Added more fluid and continued.

The second time when I ran out of fluid, meant to say my bottle went empty. I kept the resevoir above the 1/2 mark btwn Max & Min. I think I did two runs of refilling the resevoir then 10-15 pumps on the clutch. When I noticed my bottle was getting low I stopped bleeding and kept resevoir at max.

Would it be a waste of time if I only bled the clutch again?

Well I think I've figured it out. I didn't keep the resevoir full enough, sucked air into my clutch. Rebled, went through a couple of litres, and I keep getting tiny little bubbles. The clutch feels better, but not 100% sponge free. I'll continue to rebleed till it goes away as I've read else where you should have no bubbles.

Good thing the synthetic DOT3 by Prestone is on sale at Kragen's ($2.99 per litre). I was recounting my story to the cashier and dude behind me gave out a chuckle...

To all new bleeders ALWAYS KEEP THE RESEVOIR ABOVE MIN LEVEL!

thread revival again. I was thinking about getting these speed bleeders, but i saw that edelbrock makes them. They seem like a bit more reputable company then this speedbleeders.com website.

On the russel website they list
front: 639550 (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RUS%2D639550&N=700+301361+115&autoview=sku)
rear: 639560 (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RUS%2D639560&N=700+301361+115&autoview=sku)

but nothing for the master cylinder or clutch, i have an 04, so i do have a MC bleeder. Does anyone know the size for the MC or Clutch for russel bleeders?

would it be this one?
RUS-639570 (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RUS%2D639570&N=700+301361+115&autoview=sku)

all the info is in the thread if you read it..

and yes the 04 does have a mc bleed valve..

i have the speedbleeders on mine and love them..

i think the part in the speedbleeder world for the clutch and mc was 7100.

beers :beer:

I know i read through the thread and the correct part numbers are listed for speedbleeder.com not russel speed bleeders. I think I got the right ones though. I compared the sizes and hopefully they fit, the front bleeders only differ by 1 mm on the length.

I got the stainless steel ones myself:

1x SB7100-SS for the clutch
2x SB8100-SS for the fronts
2x SB1010-SS for the rears

Will be putting them on tomorrow.

BTW, mentioning the rx8club.com in the comments while ordering still gets you 10% off! :D:

Sorry to bring this back up again! Just want to confirm:

Someone stated that the 7100 vs 7100S for the MC depends on the year of the car but I haven't seen anyone mention the breakdown.

I have an 06 / MT and would like a clarification as to S vs no S.

Satisfied Speed Bleeder user here. Just flushed my system (calipers/clutch/MC) and they worked great. Here's the thing. I only bought the rear caliper bleeders and the bleeders for the clutch slave and the MC. The fronts weren't available at my local parts store. So I was forced to use TeamRX8's method on the front calipers. I have to say, his method was really effective and I probably didn't need the Speed Bleeders on the rear calipers.

However, I would highly recommend them for the MC and the clutch slave cylinder because gravity doesn't help you with these like it does with the calipers. A tip on the MC bleeder: I had to be very careful not to get air sucking back in through the threads when releasing the brake pedal. To remedy this, I only opened the bleeder about 1/8 of a turn and released the pedal (the up-stroke) very, very slowly. The bleeder I used for the MC was the 7100. It is a little long, but seems to work fine aside from the air-sucking issue.

A tip on the MC bleeder: I had to be very careful not to get air sucking back in through the threads when releasing the brake pedal. To remedy this, I only opened the bleeder about 1/8 of a turn and released the pedal (the up-stroke) very, very slowly. The bleeder I used for the MC was the 7100. It is a little long, but seems to work fine aside from the air-sucking issue.

Thanks to all for the great info here. I'm about to replace my pads and rotors and decided to order a set of speed bleeders. But regarding the above statement, why would you have to worry about air getting into the MC, if the bleeders are designed to not let air in? I'm assuming that, if the longer bleeder is to blame, you would ideally use the short version for the MC?

Thanks to all for the great info here. I'm about to replace my pads and rotors and decided to order a set of speed bleeders. But regarding the above statement, why would you have to worry about air getting into the MC, if the bleeders are designed to not let air in? I'm assuming that, if the longer bleeder is to blame, you would ideally use the short version for the MC?

Olorin2 - It could be that the short version is better, but I never used the short one so I can't confirm that. It seems to be an issue with the threads themselves letting the air back in. But I'll clarify - we're only talking about some tiny bubbles here. It could be that this particular bleeder I got didn't get as much thread coating as it should have. Closing it down more and letting the pedal up very slowly seemed to do the trick.

Olorin2 - It could be that the short version is better, but I never used the short one so I can't confirm that. It seems to be an issue with the threads themselves letting the air back in. But I'll clarify - we're only talking about some tiny bubbles here. It could be that this particular bleeder I got didn't get as much thread coating as it should have. Closing it down more and letting the pedal up very slowly seemed to do the trick.

I'll be sure to try that when I do the brakes! Thanks for clarifying!

One other question (until I actually get started)...

When I'm replacing the stock bleeders with the speedbleeders, how much brake fluid am I going to have to deal with coming out, if any? I've never completely taken out a bleeder from a caliper and I'm just not sure what to expect.

This goes for the MC as well... will I get brake fluid spewing from the bleeder hole when I go to replace it with the speedbleeder? If so, what's the best way to deal with it? Just wear gloves and have a catch-can handy?

Thanks again for the help!

One other question (until I actually get started)...

When I'm replacing the stock bleeders with the speedbleeders, how much brake fluid am I going to have to deal with coming out, if any? I've never completely taken out a bleeder from a caliper and I'm just not sure what to expect.

This goes for the MC as well... will I get brake fluid spewing from the bleeder hole when I go to replace it with the speedbleeder? If so, what's the best way to deal with it? Just wear gloves and have a catch-can handy?

Thanks again for the help!

Take a disposable rubber/latex glove, and seal it over the brake fluid reservoir. IIRC, I had hardly any fluid spillage while swapping in the new bleeders. I have a 2006 model, however; and do not have a MC bleeder, so I cannot vouch for that one in particular.

Take a disposable rubber/latex glove, and seal it over the brake fluid reservoir. IIRC, I had hardly any fluid spillage while swapping in the new bleeders. I have a 2006 model, however; and do not have a MC bleeder, so I cannot vouch for that one in particular.


Thanks for the tip!

Anyone have input on replacing the MC bleeder and containing the brake fluid?

Thanks for the tip!

Anyone have input on replacing the MC bleeder and containing the brake fluid?

Yeah, leave the original bleeder there and forget about it, as it is a useless and unnecessary part that has been discontinued on later 8's MC.

Just bleed the system at the 4 wheels..and slave cylinder (clutch).

However, if you put a rubber glove tight over the MC filler tank and seal with a rubber band you will create a vacuum which should stop any BF leaking out if you want to renew the MC Bleeder.

I don't see the point of bleeding the MC only (unless you are replacing the MC) as you still need to do the calipers...so fresh BF is already present in MC by the time you have done one rear wheel.

Yeah, leave the original bleeder there and forget about it, as it is a useless and unnecessary part that has been discontinued on later 8's MC.

Just bleed the system at the 4 wheels..and slave cylinder (clutch).

However, if you put a rubber glove tight over the MC filler tank and seal with a rubber band you will create a vacuum which should stop any BF leaking out if you want to renew the MC Bleeder.

I don't see the point of bleeding the MC only (unless you are replacing the MC) as you still need to do the calipers...so fresh BF is already present in MC by the time you have done one rear wheel.

Thanks ASH... I was wondering why later 8's didn't have the bleeder. I'll concentrate on just doing the calipers. :)

Thanks ASH... I was wondering why later 8's didn't have the bleeder. I'll concentrate on just doing the calipers. :)

The MC bleeder's there because air can get into the MC. Don't ignore it. Bleed it once before the calipers and then once after. I'm not going to get into a debate with other members about this. I'll just say it's easy to do, and it's better to be safe than sorry.

Although the 04/05 model years do have a MC bleed nipple it was value engineered out of follow-on models as not really necessary. The brake/clutch fluid reservoir is at the highest point in the system and ventilated (else how would fluid be added without compromising the system?).

Speedbleaders on the brake calipers and clutch slave cylinder is a great mod tho'.

If you have the MC bleeder, use it both before and after wheel brake bleeding. Just because it was engineered out on later yrs cars doesn't mean it isn't needed in those that have it. It is needed and esp. if you drain the system, like putting in SS lines, NOT bleeding it before and after can seriously degrade brake performance to the point of almost having no brakes.

Huey52, how does 'engineered out' translate into 'not really needed'? Are you simply assuming it's removal means 'not really needed'?

Keep in mind that many early model run vehicles have components that are removed over time as 'value engineering' (aka cost cutting) measures. The downside to buying an early run vehicle is unknown weaknesses, but the upside is that they tend to be over-engineered to preclude some potential issues. This is a case of the latter.

I'm not disagreeing that if you have it you may as well use it, but just commenting that it's not absolutely necessary. The air bubbles will [eventually] rise to the top of the system, just as they do in every other vehicle out there. The flip side is that you can use gravity to bleed your system, but I prefer speedbleeders for peace of mind (and speed of task completion).

edit: In fairness I should add that the designers don't always initially well anticipate the vehicle's range of usage/maintenance, as noted by the [re-] inclusion of the third oil metering injector in the Series II.

Although the 04/05 model years do have a MC bleed nipple it was value engineered out of follow-on models as not really necessary. The brake/clutch fluid reservoir is at the highest point in the system and ventilated (else how would fluid be added without compromising the system?).

Speedbleaders on the brake calipers and clutch slave cylinder is a great mod tho'.

It is present on 06 as well :)

And I fully agree... Speedbleeders rock.

^ I stand corrected. I thought it was only 04/05. Thanks for the insight.

I most certainly do not see a MC bleeder on my '06. Was it changed mid-year?

The MC bleeder's there because air can get into the MC. Don't ignore it. Bleed it once before the calipers and then once after. I'm not going to get into a debate with other members about this. I'll just say it's easy to do, and it's better to be safe than sorry.

I don't necessarily disagree with you but, (apart from Replacing your MC where you can do a bench bleed before install), if you have air in your MC it still can be bled out at a Caliper, naturally if you bleed it enough.

Mazda have had Bleeders on MC over the years and then remove them with NO other internal/external changes..like the RX-8.

The Bleeder on the MC for RX-8's was removed by Mazda on the June 1st, 2005 Production.

if i order from russellperformance.com for the speedbleeder should i get the rear one for my clutch just like its reccomended to get the rear one from speedbleeder.com (my be a dumb ?):confused:

These little suckers are amazing! I know they've been around forever but I just used them for the first time while helping WCS put on stainless lines. They really make brake bleeding an easy task!
http://russellperformance.com/mc/speed/img/main_bleeder.jpg


Use SB on clutch? I was wondering that as well. It seems like a great idea.

I believe the one SpeedBleeder.com recommends for the clutch is slightly different than the rear ones (I think it's a longer one, can't remember). I'll tell you one thing though; the clutch bleeder is a PITA and then some to swap out.

I have read through this article several times and want to verify the SPEEDBLEEDER.COM part numbers for my application. I even called the lady at speedbleeders this morning and she didn't have the part number for the MC.

I have a 2005 gran touring automatic, bleeder on mc.
From what I have read I need the following:


1x SB7100S for the mc
2x SB8100 for the fronts
2x SB1010 for the rears

I believe the mc needs to be the short version but on the rear for my car I have seen 7100 and 1010. I think that the lady at speedbleeders said the part number changed. Anyway.... they still give 10% to RX-8 members.

Last question - I am going with SS lines and was wondering what the value of going with SS bleeders would be. I've heard that you shouldn't mix metals especially when a susbstance like brake fluid is involved???? This confuses me because the standard bleeders are probably steel and I am not sure of what the calipers are made of.... Also if the lines are ss that is a different metal going into the caliper??? I've probably made too much out of it but wanted some opinions and general understanding.:wallbash:

I have read through this article several times and want to verify the SPEEDBLEEDER.COM part numbers for my application. I even called the lady at speedbleeders this morning and she didn't have the part number for the MC.

I have a 2005 gran touring automatic, bleeder on mc.
From what I have read I need the following:


1x SB7100S for the mc
2x SB8100 for the fronts
2x SB1010 for the rears

I believe the mc needs to be the short version but on the rear for my car I have seen 7100 and 1010. I think that the lady at speedbleeders said the part number changed. Anyway.... they still give 10% to RX-8 members.

Last question - I am going with SS lines and was wondering what the value of going with SS bleeders would be. I've heard that you shouldn't mix metals especially when a susbstance like brake fluid is involved???? This confuses me because the standard bleeders are probably steel and I am not sure of what the calipers are made of.... Also if the lines are ss that is a different metal going into the caliper??? I've probably made too much out of it but wanted some opinions and general understanding.:wallbash:

ttt

Are they the same part numbers for Series II cars? Just want to make sure before I order.

SpeedBleeders are the shit... Nuff said...

And Thunder... I have no idea... sorry buddy