Repost: Started new topic for ON-TOPIC discussion

Well, I've gone through the first few tanks since the ignition swap. The biggest story thus far is mileage. I've had a couple of "city only" tanks, that have had close to zero highway miles on them. I'm averaging 18.3 city now. I was honestly getting below 15 before, averaging around 14.3 on city-only tanks. Keep in mind, these are tanks that have absolutely NO highway miles, thus the lower numbers. I've only had 1 tank since the swap that was primarily highway (6th gear, cruise on 84 mph, with a few bursts here and there), probably about a 90/10 split. That came out 26.1 mpg.

So, mileage comparison:

Before: 14.3/21.2
After: 18.3/26.1

Pretty decent improvement there, if you ask me. No other changes were made, nor were driving habits altered in any way. I'm pretty diligent about documenting mileage, so the "before" numbers are measured from when I know I had 4 good coils. Or at least, 4 functioning coils. There's also a small power increase (verified on dyno, and an improvement in top end smoothness (from 7-7500+ in my car prior, it kind of felt like it was running out of breath. Not the case now). It was also nice that I filled up yesterday for under $30.

So better economy, more power, hopefully more durability, and an easy install rates this as an A in my mod list. Even for us NA folks, there is enough of an improvement where I would recommend. Naturally, everyone's mileage and power results may vary.

Congrats! I cannot wait for my number to come up and get mine.

Nice write up, as usual...

Before: 14.3/21.2
After: 18.3/26.1

All I care about!

don't expect those results to be valid for everyone though... didn't do anything for me

made my day... Charles can be sure to have my order on his desk in march ^^

My mileage is not bad (around 20-22 mpg with mixed driving city/ highway) but i expect a real improvement in my mileage.

br,
EdFred

made my day... Charles can be sure to have my order on his desk in march ^^

My mileage is not bad (around 20-22 mpg with mixed driving city/ highway) but i expect a real improvement in my mileage.

br,
EdFred

The mileage I was receiving prior to my upgrade was low compared to what a lot of others have posted. My in-town mileage has naturally dropped a bit in the cold weather. My last couple of tanks of in-town only commute has been at 18.2 mpg. Still better than the 14.3 I saw before the upgrade.

And as I said in my original post, results may definitely vary. I'm only saying that this is what I have observed on my personal car. I can't vouch for others. Hopefully others with this modification will post and present their impressions of the new coils so we can get some cumulative data.

Forgot to mention, my engine mods: Cobb AP running the Cobb Stage 1 tune, and the BHR Coils.

everyones results are going to be different. as r0tor said, he didnt see any tangible mpg improvements. If you have OEM coils at 100%, then you likely wont see much if anything.

I bought these for 2 reasons:
1) I am going FI and needed a coil solution that could keep up. These coils can do that without need for dwell adjustments AND if i ever need to replace the coils, i can get replacement coils myself very easily.
2) Regardless of being FI, i dont like the idea of changing my coils every few months. This should stop that.

just finished my installation of the BHR coils and plugs. i must say it was quite a tight fit. the T2 coil is very close to the UIM, almost touching. i took the stupid clip that holds the alternator cable off which made things a little better.

before i was noticing some very rough idle. i was able to start it up and pull it back in the driveway and it idled very nice. i was able to drive around yet but i will over the next few days possibly. i was averaging around 22mpg hwy before the upgrade and i'll be making another trip in about a week to test it out some more.

some tools i'd recommend for someone installing is a long flexible extension to get the 10mm bolts. also if you are changing the spark plugs i used a long extension that had a wobble spark plug socket on the end.

all in all i'm very impressed so far but i will post some more results in the next week or so. this should compliment my turbo i'll be installing soon as well.

just finished my installation of the BHR coils and plugs. i must say it was quite a tight fit. the T2 coil is very close to the UIM, almost touching. i took the stupid clip that holds the alternator cable off which made things a little better.

before i was noticing some very rough idle. i was able to start it up and pull it back in the driveway and it idled very nice. i was able to drive around yet but i will over the next few days possibly. i was averaging around 22mpg hwy before the upgrade and i'll be making another trip in about a week to test it out some more.

some tools i'd recommend for someone installing is a long flexible extension to get the 10mm bolts. also if you are changing the spark plugs i used a long extension that had a wobble spark plug socket on the end.

all in all i'm very impressed so far but i will post some more results in the next week or so. this should compliment my turbo i'll be installing soon as well.
I hate that clip :banghead:

How long did it take you to install?

I hate that clip :banghead:

How long did it take you to install?

yeah me too. i was wondering what that metal tab piece if for anyways? i'm thinking of removing it and putting shorter screws in when i change my water pump.

it took about 4 hours. that included taking a 30min break and 2 trips to Autozone for tools.

yeah me too. i was wondering what that metal tab piece if for anyways? i'm thinking of removing it and putting shorter screws in when i change my water pump.

it took about 4 hours. that included taking a 30min break and 2 trips to Autozone for tools.
took me almost 3 hours, I'm sure it would've been more, but fortunately I had the tools I needed

Mod Edit: Removed Crap from Thread.

If your post is missing, you know why.

Mod Edit: Removed Crap from Thread.

If your post is missing, you know why.

thanks Al. :)

Mod Edit: Removed Crap from Thread.

If your post is missing, you know why.
thanks :)

thanks Al!

alright enough thanks...

nuke you were getting 22 highway before the mod? what other mods do you have on your car ATM?

alright enough thanks...

nuke you were getting 22 highway before the mod? what other mods do you have on your car ATM?

K&N typhoon Ver. 2 intake, RX7store resonated midpipe, HKS Hi-Power, Z-Ent grounding kit. thats about it that i can think of that might help mpg.

K&N typhoon Ver. 2 intake, RX7store resonated midpipe, HKS Hi-Power, Z-Ent grounding kit. thats about it that i can think of that might help mpg.

Oh wow, you're using the HKS Hi-power with the kit as well!?!

I would be curious what kind of MPG numbers you would get without the hi-power kit.

here's some pics of my old spark plugs. to my knowledge they are the original plugs with around 48,000mi on them. no wonder my car was idling rough.

http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/8847/dsc0478id1.jpg
By nuke0907 (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/nuke0907), shot with NIKON D40X (http://profile.imageshack.us/camerabuy.php?model=NIKON+D40X&make=NIKON+CORPORATION) at 2008-12-24

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/4423/dsc0480fp7.jpg
By nuke0907 (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/nuke0907) at 2008-12-24

it's cruel and unusual punishment to leave plugs like that in an RX-8.

Installed the kit. Now the car is incredibly hard to start and misfires under boost. Don't have any MPG numbers as I won't be driving it until I figure this out :squint:

Installed the kit. Now the car is incredibly hard to start and misfires under boost. Don't have any MPG numbers as I won't be driving it until I figure this out :squint:

Barring any possible defect in the coils themselves, it is likely you either have the leading/trailing crossed on one rotor or one of the trailing wires or harnesses is disconnected.

Just to make sure, the instructions state L1, T1, L2, T2 front to rear. If this is the case I'm pretty sure I've got it right. I already checked it twice, though I do have my retarded moments.

Just to make sure, the instructions state L1, T1, L2, T2 front to rear. If this is the case I'm pretty sure I've got it right. I already checked it twice, though I do have my retarded moments.

Yes.
You are also aware that the leading plug is the lower plug and the trailing is the higher one?

actually that is not a stupid question------its easy to get it out of sorts. to make it a no brainer--i color coded mine!
OD

Oh wow, you're using the HKS Hi-power with the kit as well!?!

I would be curious what kind of MPG numbers you would get without the hi-power kit.

exactly the same? why would the hi-power change anything (besides making the car sound like ass)

Thanks, and yes its really easy to figure out which one is leading, there's a big L and T stamped right next to the plugs.

auwen, where did you connect the grounding to? It may do nothing but since the installation is ok from what you tell this is another thing i would check

Thanks, and yes its really easy to figure out which one is leading, there's a big L and T stamped right next to the plugs.
I'd double check the connectors and make sure the plug wires are seated firmly

First to answer Charles' question no I didn't disconnect the battery. Second I checked the resistance of the ground I used to the negative battery terminal and only got 1.2ohms so I'm pretty sure that's not it either. Also checked tightness of all connectors. I did however screw up the rear rotor wires and got them backwards. That is fixed now. So with the above stated my current situation is now the car will start about 50% of the time. It still however stuttered like crazy under boost on the map I was using ( MM's 1_5a for FI). Looking at the AP the AFR sticks nicely at 11.2 so I don't think fuel is the issue. I switched over to the new baseline tuning map and tried it under boost ( just for troubleshooting purposes). On this map the AFR sits right around 12.4 and the car stutters only slightly but still makes no power under boost. My next course of action is going to have to be to swap back to the stock coils and see if everything goes back to normal just to make sure that its something with the kit setup that's the problem.

Did you get the Electrical connections in the correct place? L1,T1,L2,T2. on the wire harness', did they click together? Did you change the spark plugs? Did you get the plug wire boot down on the spark plug fully. Did you hear it click? Try using the ground suggested on the fender by the brake booster.

if you ran the rear rotor wires backwards under boost, that is very bad.. it is proven.

beers :beer:


First to answer Charles' question no I didn't disconnect the battery. Second I checked the resistance of the ground I used to the negative battery terminal and only got 1.2ohms so I'm pretty sure that's not it either. Also checked tightness of all connectors. I did however screw up the rear rotor wires and got them backwards. That is fixed now. So with the above stated my current situation is now the car will start about 50% of the time. It still however stuttered like crazy under boost on the map I was using ( MM's 1_5a for FI). Looking at the AP the AFR sticks nicely at 11.2 so I don't think fuel is the issue. I switched over to the new baseline tuning map and tried it under boost ( just for troubleshooting purposes). On this map the AFR sits right around 12.4 and the car stutters only slightly but still makes no power under boost. My next course of action is going to have to be to swap back to the stock coils and see if everything goes back to normal just to make sure that its something with the kit setup that's the problem.

true--very true. but since it is an intermediate problem engine should be basically ok
check coils resistance also--anything is possible.
sounds like for some reason you have a weak spark.
OD

I'm thinking the something is not right with the plug wires. Either they are switched or not seated in properly. You have to shove them in pretty hard to get them to seat tightly.

Another guy is having the same issue and he disconnected his battery during the swap. Might you have, as well?

I installed mine last night with the help of Jon316G. I had some misfires on start up at 6500 RPM but let her idle for a while and then revved back and it was fine. Drove it around the neighborhood (60 degrees in Cleveland on 12/27 - fracking nuts) and it felt smoother. Redlined twice without any misfires.

Install was a bigger PITA then expected but with Jon's help managed it around 4 hours. I'd call it a simple install - but not an easy install. Removing the throttle body would have sped it up. Also removing the big battery wire clipped on just next to the coils helped a ton. Tried putting on the small nuts over the OEM coil frame with that on and lost two nuts. Once we took that off it became significantly easier though still very difficult to thread the nuts on the OEM frame.

No pics of the after install but I ganked a pic from Jon's stock setup to show the offensive parts.

Those four nuts holding the BHR coil bracket was the toughest.
Moving the wire loom out of the way helped to reach those nuts.

The graffiti pic RK drew all over :) is my car while I installed my coils.
I plan on taking a similar pic with the BHR coils installed using the same technique of removing the throttle body and moving the wire loom.
I know the instructions were to make things simple, but with removing as little as possible for the novice person.
If I can remove a couple items to make an install even easier, I'll take that route.

I would agree that it should take roughly one hour to install.
I just wish it was easier to get those four nuts on... most of the time is spent looking for nuts that fall into the abyss. :)

Put a dab of grease on the nut...and then it will stay in the socket...use some brake cleaner to clean off any residue after the install......or put a piece of tape on the nut to jam it in the socket tighter..

A video is probably an overkill but including a list of the needed tools, or suggested tools in an instruction booklet is a good idea. Like telling that reaching the leading plugs with the front wheel removed is way easier -> this is a "jackstand recommended":p

Yeah.. video might be overkill, but not bad to have here on the site.
Not sure if pics included with the instruction would help because it really is self explanatory.
Maybe when I do my coils I'll make a DIY video for it for those who want to see it installed.

I figured that anybody wanting to install aftermarket parts on their car would at least have some mechanical aptitude.
I guess it's back to square one with the instructions.

I figured that anybody wanting to install aftermarket parts on their car would at least have some mechanical aptitude.
I guess it's back to square one with the instructions.

....or people could just read this thread. there are plenty of good suggestions on here.

Are they going to change the plugs too? :lol:

Are they going to change the plugs too? :lol:

That would add an extra 10 minutes to the entire time.

the plugs were the easiest part.......with the right tools.

I think that if people can't follow relatively simple clear instructions they shouldn't be doing it in the first place. At some point people need to assess there skill set and determine if it is really something that they can do or not

I'm all for DIY..and helping people work on there cars...but sometimes it is dangerous to the car and the person if they get in over there head......

This install is really 4 bolts, 4 plugs and 4 spark plug wires....and removing a few things to get access to it easily........ Problem is ...hooking them up wrong can kill the engine.............People need to ask themselves...is it worth the risk..and can I follow instructions to the letter

Ray...your job is doing the simple clear instructions ;)

I've been a mechanic longer than a lot of you people have been alive. And the one thing that always sticks in my mind is what an old boss of mine told me.
"Always take more tools than you need to do the job"

If these DIY installers don't have the proper tools to do the job then they will have issues.

^^^
Damn toot your horn there buddy. :)
(butt you're right)

That's why telling the necessary tools will make them all ask to themselves, at least "have i got this?".
It probably won't be useful to most, but there's always an idiot ready to make harm to his engine :) (Don't look at me, please!)

I figured that anybody wanting to install aftermarket parts on their car would at least have some mechanical aptitude.
I guess it's back to square one with the instructions.

How are people supposed to gain a "mechanical aptitude" if they are never given the opportunity to do it themselves?
Local guys can tell you that I insist they do the work themselves.
I may stand near to observe and offer tips on how to utilize some tools.
And it might take much longer than usual, but they gain that knowledge.

For BHR to come on here and almost poking fun at people having issues with the installation is the first time I've been disappointed in them.
We should be here to help even the most novice person and not make them feel like an idiot.

Sorry... rant over.

That's great advice....I have so many tools that I often forget that most people don't :)

Maybe we should do a "Minimum tool supply for the Beginner RX-8 Modifier" thread :)

3) My "job" with BHR and this particular product is much more than just doing the instructions

You are the most literal SOB I have ever met ;)

I always chuckle at the interwebz and trying to convey sarcasm or such :)

That's why telling the necessary tools will make them all ask to themselves, at least "have i got this?".
It probably won't be useful to most, but there's always an idiot ready to make harm to his engine :) (Don't look at me, please!)

If I can't change the plugs, coils, and spark plug wires on my car then I need to turn in all of my tools to charity and go to a jiffy lube for oil changes.

Granted, this is coming from the guy that took 4 hours to replace two friggin parking lights last weekend :banghead:

Regardless of what the instructions say, I had planned on some combination of labeling wires and plugs and sequencing disassembly, reassembly to ensure nothing going mismatched. I figuref if I go one plug/coil at a time I can't go wrong, regardless what the instructions say.

That's great advice....I have so many tools that I often forget that most people don't :)

Maybe we should do a "Minimum tool supply for the Beginner RX-8 Modifier" thread :)

A thread such as this would be of value, even to someone who's been active for a while, working through all the various mods and complexities over time...

How are people supposed to gain a "mechanical aptitude" if they are never given the opportunity to do it themselves?
Local guys can tell you that I insist they do the work themselves.
I may stand near to observe and offer tips on how to utilize some tools.
And it might take much longer than usual, but they gain that knowledge.

For BHR to come on here and almost poking fun at people having issues with the installation is the first time I've been disappointed in them.
We should be here to help even the most novice person and not make them feel like an idiot.

Sorry... rant over.



I have no problem with people doing it themselves. You learn from your mistakes, correct?
I don't think anybody is bashing anybody about their particular skills, but if they have the skills to do this then they should be able to see the simple issues they are having and rectify them.
So far I'm seeing people that haven't pushed the spark plug boot down enough and are having spark leak.
I see people that don't have the proper tools to do the job and all this comes out as the 'BHR kit has issues".
As stated we will make a new set of instructions with step by step information and pictures.
We didn't realize people would need that indepth of information. I guess we were wrong.

Maybe we should do a "Minimum tool supply for the Beginner RX-8 Modifier" thread :)

Compile that list for me, I could use it ;)

@ShellDude: you're completely right and at times i have problems doing the easiest things as well :)
The fact is that just looking at things won't tell you what tools are needed so providing a guy with a good "tools neded:" part will speed things up. This is an easy install that requires common tools, for other products it could be of a great help.

They gain a mechanical aptitude by contacting the guys at BHR and we walk them through the process of installation on everything we sell, whether BHR stuff or not. Who else around here does this?
I would agree that BHR appears to be better than the rest as far as helping others over the phone when they have questions... its why I got a little "hot headed" because it didn't seem like the BHR I know.
Sorry if I overreacted a little... it just seemed as if it was starting to get a little "bashing".

Jon, we are not discussing people, we are discussing the whole DIY concept and the importance of people assessing their own skills and not being embarrased to say the need help or simply don't know what they are doing.
Again... I agree 100%. Maybe I was just reading it the wrong way.


I have no problem with people doing it themselves. You learn from your mistakes, correct?
I don't think anybody is bashing anybody about their particular skills, but if they have the skills to do this then they should be able to see the simple issues they are having and rectify them.
So far I'm seeing people that haven't pushed the spark plug boot down enough and are having spark leak.
I see people that don't have the proper tools to do the job and all this comes out as the 'BHR kit has issues".
As stated we will make a new set of instructions with step by step information and pictures.
We didn't realize people would need that in depth of information. I guess we were wrong.
True.
Whenever I meet with someone I always have my "bag-of-goodies" with me because most people only have the real basic tools (no extensions, swivels, etc to help with an install).
I do also encourage that people with no mechanical knowledge should see if anyone from their area has a little more knowledge and can help with an install.

Like I said... this all could have just been a misunderstanding on my part.
:grouphug:

Tell ya what; BHR will produce a video wherein Michelle and my son, Alex, will each install this kit all by themselves in less than an hour while reading the instructions. With nothing more that a 10mm deep-well socket, extension, ratchet, and screwdriver. Neither of them have ever touched my car.

Would that be good?:lol2:

Seriously though, we'll make improvements in the instructions. If we had spent time making a video or pictorial instructions none of you would have your kits right now.;)

Charles,

How about with one hand tied behind their back while relating the instruction using sign language. That will definitely be an awesome video. I really don’t see the challenge of installing a very simple but yet outstanding component that will definitely improve your car performance. :eyetwitch

My guess, Jon, is that you're just getting antsy because you know your kit is among those simply waiting for coils before it can ship out and you want your kit ASAP.;)

:lol:
True... playing with RK's coils yesterday might have started it.

Basic tools,, Sledge Hammer, 3ft pry bar, duct tape, and some zip ties.

Oh and a Sawz-All.

BTW, I may soon have a video showing the electrical power of these coils.

Oh God I can see it now! Someone call the Paramedics Easy is down! :banghead:

http://www.trainingpressreleases.com/ftp/news/2601.jpg

Basic tools,, Sledge Hammer, 3ft pry bar, duct tape, and some zip ties.

Oh and a Sawz-All.

I can't believe you left out plyers and vice grips :Eyecrazy: :rant: :eyetwitch

Can we get back to the coils has anyone dyno yet

Can we get back to the coils has anyone dyno yet

NO!!!!!!!!!!:rant:

Can we get back to the coils has anyone dyno yet

sure. Soon as you post the dyno numbers for your tint.

Can we get back to the coils has anyone dyno yet

I Dyno'd mine.

Gained 45RWHP.

I'm upto 300WHP with exhaust, midpipe, headers, and this ignition!

BHR Ignition System=window tinting now?:uhh:

He wants someone else to spend $60 on a dyno run, well before I do that, I want him to dyno test his tint. Maybe do before and after runs for his air freshener too. How about before and after runs with zaino.

none of these are hp mods. So why should it be any different?

If an opportunity comes up, we may, but BHR has no intention of spending money to specifically dyno "prove" this product. The only thing we feel to be substantial would be to show what level of power mods, i.e. forced-induction, are needed in order to expose the weaknesses in the Ignition System. So far, with MM's dalliances all summer long in AZ on the racetrack, with boost pressures as high as 14-16 PSI, and no misfire episodes related to the coils (we did expose some lousy spark plug wires but they weren't MSDs), we believe that is all that is needed to qualify the benefits thereof. We also have Easy's nitrous expoits well past 8,000 RPMs with no misfires, either. I typically buzz my own engine to 9,500 RPMs and it pulls smooth the whole way.

We can also point to the universal impressions each new purchaser of this system report, which are improved driveability, as something of note.

With regard to dyno graphs, I will bet anybody the biggest documentable gains will not be seen in peak power but in the fact there there won't be nearly as much of a torque roll-off above 7,000 RPMs (as compared to OEM coils) and the torque curve across the RPM range will be smoother.

This is 100% true...period! :eyetwitch

Charles, the fact in my opinion is not the torque roll over or the power increase itself but the power loss that you avoid on the long term on top of that with these coils!
MazdaManiac and Easy_E1 are the proof :)

zaino improves your top speed by making your car more slippery.

Is every mod for power? I bought these for one reason, because I believe that they will last longer than the OEM coils, which had gone out twice in less than 40k miles. I was expecting slightly better efficiency, which I have been pleasantly surprised with. I'm also happy with the "driveability" type mod, in that it makes the driving experience better. How? As noted before, my car prior to this mod kinda felt like it ran out of breath around 7500 or so. Now it willing revs past that point with out the breathless feeling.

I just find if interesting that BHR, even during the development of the kit, stated that this was NOT intended as a power mod. Yet the first thing that gets asked for are dyno sheets.

This is one of the mods I would do again, and have no regrets over the purchase of this item.

I'll end up doing it for unrelated reasons.... but here is factory 6000 mile coils on a dyno at 8-9 PSI.... see something wrong?

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130985&stc=1&d=1230505365

That is what a car falling on it's face looks like....

Compare that to the volume of air entering the motor. (from 3000 on)...

Look down low - my Virutal Dyno is almost exactly in line.... and then something goes wrong... I have air, I have fuel...... sooooo what am I missing?

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130986&stc=1&d=1230505665

I will; simply cause I need to compare my "virtual dyno" part of Baseline with the real world....assuming a healthy pull.

Obvioulsy... I can "feel" a 100 HP difference - well guess what? Yeah; I noticed a small change after the install.... by small I mean laying rubber in 4th (totally on accident); I was having fun.

Send one with Jeff to Seattle..and we can do a before after swap on a car....

Party Pooper :)

You can have it back if you want ;)

I had some misfires on start up at 6500 RPM

That is because the PCM sets a soft 5500 RPM limit until the engine temp hits 165°F.

Send one with Jeff to Seattle..and we can do a before after swap on a car....

Actually, pending a further discussion with Ray, I might cobble together a "spec" copy to take with me to the dyno for people that are having a hard time on the dyno as a proof of concept thing.
It won't be for sale and it wont be pretty (it will have extra long leads and plug wires so that it needn't be completely installed to work), but it will give people an idea of what it does.

If these DIY installers don't have the proper tools to do the job then they will have issues.

Who was that directed to? Because if it was me then you're misinformed. At only one point during the install was I lacking a proper tool (I had to borrow a wire crimper) unless they make a thin, magnetic, 10mm, swivel socket that could have saved an hour or so of searching for the 1 of 3 dropped nuts that got swallowed by the engine bay. That would have been helpful.

We followed the instructions to the letter specifically to give feedback to the community. To help the community as a whole. Which ends up helping BHR. Responding with a take like 'get better tools' seems a little asinine and a lot counter-productive. A good chunk of work done on these was to make it easy to install. Jon recommended a few workarounds before we really got to installing it but I was willing to waste our time trying to save others time in the future.

And again the install WAS simple. It just happened that on my car it was also a pain in the ass to get a larger set of coils and backing into the OEM area. It is crammed in there. People should expect that when they buy this and they should be able to get on a thread specifically discussing the impressions/results of installing this ignition set and be able to find out tips to work around it. Eventually by doing that the simple install turns into an easy install. Folks who have relocated their battery or have a different intake then the OEM/RB are going to have an easier time with this install.

I can see it now; Dannobre shows up at the Seattle Meet, offers his car up as a dyno-mule, we accept do the dyno pulls and I remove the kit.

Dannobre then immediately offers to buy the kit from me but demands a reduced cost because the kit is now "used".

Is THIS what you are getting at?:lol2:

Not on my car...I likely will be in my truck................

Damn..you come up with the sneakiest scenarios.....going to have to keep my eye on you :lol:

That is because the PCM sets a soft 5500 RPM limit until the engine temp hits 165°F.

Ok. That makes sense though we had let it sit idle for a few minutes warming up while we listend for possible misfires. No gauges so I don't know the exact temp but it wasn't all the wayto the 'happy point' that the OEM gauge sits. We figured it was the PCM learning something.

It was perfectly fine after a few more minutes of idling and after the shutdown and then test drive 15 minutes or so afterwards so I wasn't concerned.

I'm so far down on the waitlist I can't even see light.. but I'm more then willing to be patient for a product that has Ray's customer service attitude behind it.

That sounds like a good idea as I have some first proto harnesses we can use and I am sure we can manage the rest, somehow, with little work needed from you, Jeff.;)

We will need to extend the proto harnesses out to about a foot and get a set of double-length plug wires.
I'll need an alligator clip on the chassis ground as well.

That's more like it...thinking outside of the box :)

Ryan, it wasn't directed at you. It was a simple statement of fact and we all at BHR appreciate input from those like you who can articulate your experiences.

Ok. I don't really see who it was directed at but with the random interjections that seem to flood every thread in here it's a little difficult to follow. It's not like you need a lot of tools for this install.

And I don't think a video is really necessary but some pics on your site or in this thread would be helpful. It really is simple. The difficulty is in the small things like getting those oem nuts back on the frame, working around the wires and plugs that have nothing to do with the install but clutter the area, and just getting the order of install.

The only part that a video might help out is removing the OEM plug connectors from the OEM coils. If you've never done it before (me) and don't have someone next to you that has (Jon) it's tricky to know exactly how to leverage the plugs to get them so they come off. We ended up undoing the nuts and removing the coils 1-by-1 because it was a little easier to unplug the coils. That and unclasping the battery wire and removing the flexible intake tubing in front of the throttle body were the only places we really deviated from the instructions.

It was a "universal thought" I was not directing it at anyone in particular. Just making a general observation. If I am going to be specific I will mention the persons name and :spank: them.

Is every mod for power? ... I just find if interesting that BHR, even during the development of the kit, stated that this was NOT intended as a power mod. Yet the first thing that gets asked for are dyno sheets.That's hillarious. I wonder how many people would be asking for dyno sheets if you had not made the claim of an 8 hp dyno proven power increase.

That's hillarious. I wonder how many people would be asking for dyno sheets if you had not made the claim of an 8 hp dyno proven power increase.

Same people who can only judge a car's "performance" by HP numbers.
I would be more interested if there was an increase in torque with a product.

So I pulled all of the wires and reconnected them. The car runs fine now. Just need to go about getting some updated maps for my specific setup from MM. Thanks for the help.

Same people who can only judge a car's "performance" by HP numbers.
I would be more interested if there was an increase in torque with a product.

If there is a TQ increase; but not a HP increase I'll give you 1000000000000000 dollars....:banghead:

If there is a TQ increase; but not a HP increase I'll give you 1000000000000000 dollars....:banghead:

Never said there wasn't going to be... :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
I was simply saying I am more interested in proven torque increase than horsepower.
Why are some people here only to try and make themselves look better?

Never said there wasn't going to be... :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
I was simply saying I am more interested in proven torque increase than horsepower.
Why are some people here only to try and make themselves look better?

If you look back at my posts; I think it is pretty obvious that my ego is pretty low on the list of priorities.

That being said - there are some statements I just can't take at 0500 - the bold statement is just plain incorrect - as I was busting your chops about it a second ago....Torque and HP are functions of each other; torque measures force and HP measures work...a change in one will bring about an EXACT corresponding change in the other. So discarding HP for torque is kinda silly, and I was making a joke...I think of myself as a funny guy - despite evidence to the contrary.

Kane, your implying that my statement (which you bolded) is incorrect.
But my statement is saying that I (keyword is I) am more interested in torque improvement.
You are basically saying that I am incorrect on my opinion on what I would like to see. :Eyecrazy:
That's the same as failing an opinion test.
Is is wrong for someone to wish for larger torque gains?
Do we ALL have to go by HP numbers?

I don't feel that I should be bashed for thinking differently than most.
And I'm not here to start an argument with you or anyone.
But I will defend myself when I'm being called out on something that is my opinion.
You don't like how I look at things... fine. I'm not asking you to.

Horsepower = (Torque x RPM)/5252

No opinion or ego here. Just math.

Horsepower = (Torque x RPM)/5252

No opinion or ego here. Just math.

Just stay out of this.
I've already helped to trash this thread by responding to this.
Sorry BHR.

Jon, THIS is what our ball-busting fellow forum members were trying to get you to say.

Do I need to ask Tim to spike this thread again, Kane and Chad?;)

:)
You got me there bud.
I may not be as knowledgeable as some members here (like Kane) when it comes to this, but that is what I was thinking in my own little brain.
Just didn't know the proper way to put it into words.

Sarcasm.... FTL it appears.

I promise to behave...sarcasm looks condescending in type sometimes I guess.

Ah well these BHR ignition impresion threads are gonna be kinda slow for a year or so anyway - then we start the long term testing.

sarcasm looks condescending in type sometimes I guess.

I never let that slow me down!

I never let that slow me down!
Sarcasm ^^^

HA HA HA - awesomeness.

I just don't wanna meet one of these guys and get beat up in real life.

Sarcasm ^^^

HA HA HA - awesomeness.

I just don't wanna meet one of these guys and get beat up in real life.

Wimp!:spank:

Sarcasm ^^^

HA HA HA - awesomeness.

I just don't wanna meet one of these guys and get beat up in real life.


Sarcasm? ;) you would be one of the less likely ones to get beat up on here :)

and more thread trashing crap ;) from me :)

when you dyno increase the plug gap--you now have the power to handle that. that is if you are running bar plugs:)
OD

I have RX7 Trailing and Stock Leading. So far so good.

I am not trying to make the car into a monster anyway - just a respectable street car.

Sure ;)

The darkside beckons..............

that is if you are running bar plugs:)
OD

Which no one producing any respectable power would risk doing.

On the leading anyway ;)

On the leading anyway ;)

Well, the risk is the greatest there because of the plug hole size and depth.

I got lost to what everyone was talking about since page 3 .... toomuch randomness!

Question -- being that these babies have more bang ...

What is the increased amp draw?

IF possible - amps stock (all 4) vs. Amps BHR Coils (all 4)

I'm so far down on the waitlist I can't even see light.. but I'm more then willing to be patient for a product that has Ray's customer service attitude behind it.

lol ya me too, and I ordered my almost two weeks ago :( it’s ok though, it’ll all be worth it soon :)

Just as an aside...these LS2 coils can be run at constant charge for 15 min...and still survive :) These things are kick ass......It was hot enough to cook an egg...but it still works

Finally had a good day to install my coils! I did it in my driveway. Install took me about 2.5 hours, but I also removed the airbox in order to make more room for myself, which meant i needed to disconnect the MAF sensor and Vfad vacuum lines that are attached to it.

You will have to forgive the ultra narrow depth of field on some of these shots. I'm still getting used to this new camera.

Charles, you're probably going to want to take a look at if the Stupid useless bracket can be removed. It would make installing far easier and resolve clearance issues on 07's without having to modify your own design. I also found that plug wires 1 and 3 were a bit on the short side, and 2 and 4 a bit on the long side, making it nearly (but not completely) impossible to get the plug wires into the OEM wire loom (like I give a rats ass if they fit in the loom or not).

http://www.flickr.com/photos/33869447@N08/sets/72157611914149120/

Could be the coils, could be the plugs, could be a faulty butt dyno, but the car feels FANTASTIC now. It used to like to lug and do a herky jerky thing when i didn't give it enough gas starting out in first and that's completely gone. I did disconnect the battery during my install and had no problems with any sort of rough idle, top end power seems nice and smooth too.

For refference, I've got an 07 touring, MT, no intake/exhaust/power mods.

Ah, so that's what that is. Duly noted, but I like calling it a stupid useless bracket instead. :lol:

If I'm ever tearing apart my engine bay again I might take it out, but I'm lazy and it doesn't cause any real problems.

Installed today... besides performance it Gave my 8 a totally different tone with what I'm running.....
Even my pops, was like damn....And he's an old school hot rod guy.....
Love it, bring on satan's hairdryer...

finally got my set last week,and installed by myself.After the install once I first start up my engine.I noticed that the engine sounds different then usual.when I rev it it seems the respond is faster.I did a couple redline from 2nd and 3rd gear.my car seems like get more power then before.....my car is really happy rite now.run that's the best mod I can noticed the different.even though it's not a power mod.I recomment this kit to everyone.

It can't be 100% till I get a set.


With that said, I foresee by the end of 2009, people installing OEM coils just to be different.

i wants mine :crying:

one day... one day....

it is great to hear all these positive reviews though. defianantly will be worth the wait.

I'm going to have to get Leo and Dave to distract Socket one day at our weekly meets. I figure 30 mins or so to yank those out and then another hour to put them in my car!

They look great socket, and loved the pics with the write up!

damned... all these good reviews.... i hope charles will get my kit soon ^^ i barely can't wait to put these masterpiece into my 8.

If you read this .. my money want to travel charles :D

Nice pics Socket.

Did you use dielectric grease on your plugs wires? Noticed that's not listed. While it is probably considered 'optional' it's definitely recommended.

Nice pics Socket.

Did you use dielectric grease on your plugs wires? Noticed that's not listed. While it is probably considered 'optional' it's definitely recommended.

I didn't even think of it. There wasn't any on the stock plug wires and after 22k there was no corrosion at all.

If I still lived in Boston, yeah I'd do it. but I'm to lazy to pull it apart now and put some on.

This is what I like to see. Everybody's Happy. :)
I'm getting a little misty now,,

So I've gone through 2 tanks of gas now. The problems that I've been having have only gotten worse. The car takes around 10 seconds to turn over. The car generates no power under boost and is misfiring again. My EGT goes up like its on a mission to take out the turbo. Disconnected everything, checked wire resistance, and plugged everything back in. Same problem. This kit is coming out of my car tomorrow and I'm going to order a set of stock coils. Screwing around with this kit any longer is not worth blowing something.

Wow - that is a first.

Did you check the standard stuff (ground, plugs, wires, AFR, Cat, MAF etc)? Everytime I have any turbo related drama it tends to be one of those.

wow, definitely a first.
did you ground it properly?
This might sound trivial: but are you sure the wires are going to the right plugs?

Coils shouldn't cause slow turning over...maybe slow starting

What does misfiring " again" mean...sounds to me like you have another problem

Swap stock back in to ensure...and then go looking for the problem from there..

Definitely don't push the car if it's not running properly.

Going back to stock sounds like a good idea, if only to verify if the new coils are part of the issue or not. I would suspect the issue is either with your install being wrong or unrelated to the coils. Don't you have your old coils handy instead of buying a new set?

Are you running a cat? high egt if the fuel isn't sparking doesn't add up.

Definitely don't push the car if it's not running properly.

Going back to stock sounds like a good idea, if only to verify if the new coils are part of the issue or not. I would suspect the issue is either with your install being wrong or unrelated to the coils. Don't you have your old coils handy instead of buying a new set?

Are you running a cat? high egt if the fuel isn't sparking doesn't add up.

If the timing is out the EGT will be effected.....but it sounds like it just didn't fix a misfire problem he had before the install thinking it was a coil issue????

This is the only modification I've done at this time. Car worked fine before, doesn't now. Engine still cranks at same speed, just takes forever to fire up, plus I get a nice gas smell. Plugs are brand new, swapped em out with this install. AFR sticks at 11.2 under boost. As far as misfiring goes the engine stutters under boost BAD, I'm sure if I were just a bit richer I would start to here it firing out of the exhaust. My ground is 1.2 ohms to the negative battery terminal. As for the other stuff, as I stated at the beginning, this is the only thing I've changed. Fuel and air have remained the same.

Strange.....I'd swap back to the stock nd see if it goes away...and then send it back to Charles to diagnose...

Don't want to pick..but the wires are all on the right plugs etc....right :)

This is the only modification I've done at this time. Car worked fine before, doesn't now. Engine still cranks at same speed, just takes forever to fire up, plus I get a nice gas smell. Plugs are brand new, swapped em out with this install. AFR sticks at 11.2 under boost. As far as misfiring goes the engine stutters under boost BAD, I'm sure if I were just a bit richer I would start to here it firing out of the exhaust. My ground is 1.2 ohms to the negative battery terminal. As for the other stuff, as I stated at the beginning, this is the only thing I've changed. Fuel and air have remained the same.

Auwen, please keep me posted as to the results of switching back to stock.

The key is to double check to ensure the terminal connectors didn't slip out of the boot when you connect them. I would pay special attention to the trailing plugs as well.

Sometimes pulling your plugs can show what's going on. If you're getting a strong gas smell I would suspect there's a large amount of unburnt fuel which would also go along with limited spark.

We've been told that the boot connectors with the spark plugs are tough to get a solid connection.

Feel free to PM me if you'd like!

Strange.....I'd swap back to the stock nd see if it goes away...and then send it back to Charles to diagnose...

Don't want to pick..but the wires are all on the right plugs etc....right :)

If it comes down to it, any install pictures to help us troubleshoot the problem would be helpful as well!

Sounds like one of the leading plugs isn't firing or the firing order is wrong.

I've got a set of good stock coils you can have for the price of shipping if you want them for troubleshooting. I've got 3 good plug wires too. (I cut up the 4th to test the resistance because I didn't have a long enough probe handy... don't ask.)

Remember, the front coil (1) goes to the front rotor leading plug, coil 2 goes to the front trailing plug, 3 rear leading, 4, rear trailing.

The Leading plugs are the lower ones, the upper plugs are the trailing. the engine housing will also be marked with an L or a T next to the plug hole.

I've got a set of good stock coils you can have for the price of shipping if you want them for troubleshooting. I've got 3 good plug wires too. (I cut up the 4th to test the resistance because I didn't have a long enough probe handy... don't ask.)

Remember, the front coil (1) goes to the front rotor leading plug, coil 2 goes to the front trailing plug, 3 rear leading, 4, rear trailing.

The Leading plugs are the lower ones, the upper plugs are the trailing. the engine housing will also be marked with an L or a T next to the plug hole.

A pic is sometimes worth a thousand words.

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120443&d=1210514054

These have been symptoms we've seen on a couple of other vehicles. Some tips I can give you would be the following:

1. Make sure and verify that anything you took apart was installed correctly. This includes the intake, any couplers, battery connections etc.
2. If you disconnected your battery during the install, you will need to ensure the system is completly drained of power. This means disconnecting your battery, holding your brake pedal down for 10 seconds and then waiting 2 hours before reconnecting the battery.

If you have any idle issues with a reconnection please remember that the PCM will need to relearn it's fuel trims.

3. Double check all connections and couplers from the MAF on back. We had one customer who didn't tighten down his coupler attached to the throttle body and had some issues.

4. Check to ensure the plug wires are in their proper location and that the terminal didn't slip out of the 90 degree boot.

Also don't forget that Charles R. Hill's personal phone # is included with your receipt and you can always call him with questions about the install.

There does seem to be a bit of "weak wrist" going on with some of these installs.
The plug wires need to be really, really on there.
They will "click" when the terminal grabs the plug.
As good as these coils are, if you have more than a mm of gap between the plug terminal and the wire, you will send the spark out of the wire jacket and into something else metallic nearby, like the ABS bracket or the dip stick mounting boss.

is it bad that I want a video of that? :D:

is it bad that I want a video of that? :D:

Funny you should mention that!

VIDEO (http://www.mazdamaniac.com/spark_leak.htm)

That was from back in February when I discovered the importance of good plug wire connections on my prototype for the BHR ignition system.
The spark was jumping through the coil boot on the wire, over to the charge pipe from which it jumped again to the intake pipe!
All because it wasn't seated properly on the plug.

Funny you should mention that!

VIDEO (http://www.mazdamaniac.com/spark_leak.htm)

That was from back in February when I discovered the importance of good plug wire connections on my prototype for the BHR ignition system.
The spark was jumping through the coil boot on the wire, over to the charge pipe from which it jumped again to the intake pipe!
All because it wasn't seated properly on the plug.

WINNN! :Eyecrazy: :lol2:

benjamin franklin ftmfw!

just fill up gas today.got 235miles on 14.5 gallon.80% local drive.used to get less than 200....I would say around 30 miles extra per tank same driving style nothing change except the BHR coil.also noticed that the car seems need to take more time to fire up....has anyone with this kit happen the same thing???

another off topic question.
my car has some poping sound once it idle...And little shake too...it got bad day by day after track.....here is some information about my car 28k miles with HKS section intake HKS legalmax catback and AP under drive pully and BHR coil kit.

another off topic question.
my car has some poping sound once it idle...And little shake too...it got bad day by day after track.....here is some information about my car 28k miles with HKS section intake HKS legalmax catback and AP under drive pully and BHR coil kit.

I notice some popping once in a while when I first start the car, though I have OEM coils.

I've noticed my air/fuel will suddenly change when it happens but I've not seen any other side effects.

A little dielectric grease on the spark plugs and inside the wire boots might be a good idea to help get the plug wires on all the way.

The most common causes of problems after installation are;

4) Improper connection of the spark plug wires to the spark plugs. (They fit super-snug and airtight)


That was one I was surprised with when I connected. They are very, very snug. The easy thing about that though, is that there's an audible snap/click/whatever and you can definitely feel it when you've got them secured.

Whoops! :lol2:

Nice spark jump there.

that video rockz. You should have had Easy stick his finger in there

that video rockz. You should have had Easy stick his finger in there

I actually made a video a while ago where I pick up an active "bad" OE coil, barefoot with wet hands. Nothing happens.
It was for Moon, but since I'm not allowed to feed the trolls anymore, I guess its sorta moot.

I actually made a video a while ago where I pick up an active "bad" OE coil, barefoot with wet hands. Nothing happens.
It was for Moon, but since I'm not allowed to feed the trolls anymore, I guess its sorta moot.

you must really trust your meters....

damn, i just thought of a totally unimportant but interesting(to me) use for that Fluke 97 i sold to Team a while back... :(

I actually made a video a while ago where I pick up an active "bad" OE coil, barefoot with wet hands. Nothing happens.
It was for Moon, but since I'm not allowed to feed the trolls anymore, I guess its sorta moot.

You crazy :rant: .

Sometimes knowledge+trust defies what some people consider logic ;)

You crazy :rant: .

No, I'm not. I knew exactly what the result was going to be.
Moon seemed to think that it was possible for the spark to leak out of the bottom of the coil through the "white spot" that, mystically, indicates a coil failure in his (and that of some other people) mind.
Of course, the coil's secondary windings are on top where the tower is, so the bottom of the case is facing the low voltage side of the coil.

The spark would much rather follow the path of least resistance, which was through the plug wire and the plug to ground.

i unplugged a wire from the mazsport coils with my hand and i got electricutedd big time!!! but the funny part is i tried plugging it back in but it didnt occur to me to turn off the car.. i was having a blonde day.. i usually dont make stupid mistaked like that but i got 3 electricutions hahaha

i was like aww my baby almost killed me

hahaha, oh man. I'm so sorry but I just LMFAO. Man, I bet that hurt! We used to play with an old early 1900 cranker telephone as kids... we'd make a big circle of people and have one on each end of the circle hold one of the wires from the phone.

Crank away and watch 'em scream!

hahaha, oh man. I'm so sorry but I just LMFAO. Man, I bet that hurt! We used to play with an old early 1900 cranker telephone as kids... we'd make a big circle of people and have one on each end of the circle hold one of the wires from the phone.

Crank away and watch 'em scream!

yea its crazy... but ive been electricuted before.. i remember this one time in mexico since the walls and rooms have alower ceiling i took a shower and when i got out i reached to turn off the bulb by the string and i accidently broke the bulb and my finger went in to the inner bubl and boooy that made me black out for at least 5 seconds.


electricity is no joke it can stop your heart in a instant

hahaha, oh man. I'm so sorry but I just LMFAO. Man, I bet that hurt! We used to play with an old early 1900 cranker telephone as kids... we'd make a big circle of people and have one on each end of the circle hold one of the wires from the phone.

Crank away and watch 'em scream!

Been there done that! :lol:
Use to have one person hold both wires and slowly start cranking and see how long they could hold on as you cranked a little faster and a little faster.

Been bitten quite a few times by 2nd anodes on TV's as well.
Also grabbed plug wires or coil wires that were frayed. Ouch!

Yeah, it gets your attention.

epic

i unplugged a wire from the mazsport coils with my hand and i got electricutedd big time!!! but the funny part is i tried plugging it back in but it didnt occur to me to turn off the car.. i was having a blonde day.. i usually dont make stupid mistaked like that but i got 3 electricutions hahaha

i was like aww my baby almost killed me

when i was a kid i laid the oil dipstick across the terminals of an 800 some odd amp battery.... i was out for a couple minutes and woke up about 8 feet from the truck :banghead:

i pissed on an electric cattle fence when i was 7--ever since they called me stubby
olddragger

OUCH! ive walked, fell, ran, reached into them but OUCH OD!

OUCH! ive walked, fell, ran, reached into them but OUCH OD!

You know he's pulling your leg, right?

Try it some time.

Yeah... the Mythbusters even busted a similar myth.
The myth was someone can get electrocuted while peeing on an electric train's track.

Anyway... back to the topic :)

You know he's pulling your leg, right?

Try it some time.

I'd try pulling your leg Jeff but I wouldn't want people to get the wrong idea.

Speaking of pulling legs, where is Chewie?

you think you cant get shocked by peeing on an electric cattle fence--come on down to ga and i will show you one--!!
I really aint stubby--but i never did it again!
OD

you think you cant get shocked by peeing on an electric cattle fence-

Nope. Tried it. Nothing.
We used to do it as a dare back home. Pee isn't a constant stream and, unless you are grounded like a bare-hoofed cow, you aren't gonna get shocked.
Now, maybe you run around without shoes on in your part of the world, but in the civilized parts, we tend to not run through cow sh*t barefooted.

maybe you need to pee harder!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tU1UKn7iXv8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=esymRl_0C2s

^^^^^hilarious

you think you cant get shocked by peeing on an electric cattle fence--come on down to ga and i will show you one--!!
I really aint stubby--but i never did it again!
OD
I never peed on an electric barbed wire fence, but I did get my shirt caught on one while I was crawling under. I got 2 pulses of the current and then I ripped my shirt to get away. We used to touch a weed on the fence to see if it was on.

Rofl!!!!

And they say the lowest common denominator always comes out ;)

I suppose you never stuck your tonque on a door knob at -20 :)

That's the Canadian or Alaskan alternative to the fence thing:)

Repost: Started new topic for ON-TOPIC discussion


what happened to this thread?

this
http://carolynbaker.net/site/images/train%20wreck.jpg

^^yep, but in a couple weeks or so we'll do it all again :)

maybe someday i can learn too. ;)

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e364/mdobilas/random/Thread-Offtopic-Jules.jpg

I figured since we (BHR) created this thread that we'd be able to crap in our own thread....right?

The path of the righteous man is beset on all sides by the iniquities of the selfish and the tyranny of evil men. Blessed is he, who in the name of charity and good will, shepherds the weak through the valley of darkness, for he is truly his brother's keeper and the finder of lost children. And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who would attempt to poison and destroy my brothers. And you will know my name is the Lord when I lay my vengeance upon thee.

I been sayin' that shit for years. And if you ever heard it, it meant your ass. I never really questioned what it meant. I thought it was just a cold-blooded thing to say to a motherfucker before you popped a cap in his ass. But I saw some shit this mornin' made me think twice. Now I'm thinkin': it could mean you're the evil man. And I'm the righteous man. And Mr. 9mm here, he's the shepherd protecting my righteous ass in the valley of darkness. Or it could be you're the righteous man and I'm the shepherd and it's the world that's evil and selfish. I'd like that. But that shit ain't the truth. The truth is you're the weak. And I'm the tyranny of evil men. But I'm tryin', Ringo. I'm tryin' real hard to be a shepherd.

made my week better.

thanks all! lmao

beers :beer:

I thought all purchases of BHR coils came with a foot rub?

I just got word that my coils arrived in Germany and after I get back in March I'll post my results.

Damn Jeff those were 2 confusing posts haha

I really need to watch Pulp Fiction again, it's been a while.

On a somewhat on-topic note, I have my BHR coils... now I just need to carve out an hour or so this weekend to install them and change my plugs. I'll post impressions once done, although I'm fairly sure it will be more of the same.

Whatever ya do, don't ever massage the feet of another man's woman.;)
Yea or they might "go medievil on your ass"
Funny was just talking about this movie with co-worker before I opened this post.... small world.

All PMs replied! :lol2:

All PM's replied!

I feel left out. What are you guys all PM'ing about

stuff.

kewl stoof!

Is this "All PM's replied" sheet going to go on for a long time? :banghead:

Personally I think your all nuts. But hey what do I know. :uhh:

Hi Fluid. :wavey:

Alex, I'll take "Scott" for $100

You guys seem bored... go make some stuff :D

yeah.. make stuff. and pies

it's simple.

By posting "PM's replied" you create the illusion of business. Suddenly your thread gets bumped and peopel THINK you're taking ALL these orders so now they want in on the action too.

.....and many other vendors, too.

What I don't get is the purpose of announcing "All PMs replied"(?). I am too busy DOING it to announce it to the rest of the forum. Hmmmm......

Yeah! What Jedi said. :icon_no2:

it's simple.

By posting "PM's replied" you create the illusion of business. Suddenly your thread gets bumped and peopel THINK you're taking ALL these orders so now they want in on the action too.

Here's an "Illusion of doing business" .

I just mailed out 50 coil kits today.. :Eyecrazy:


NOT!

That was an illusion of doing business. :lol2:

It's a free way to increase your chances of making a sale... and if it works then more power to them for doing it. Not everyone has a rabid fan base jumping on a wait list ya know :)
Now get in the kitchen and make us a pie.

I feel a,,,,,

http://www.reapfoodgroup.org/Newsletters/pie_palooza_logo.jpg

coming your way!

all pies PM'd

zomg!!! PM sent!

that's how we roll. :dubs:


Now back to our regularly scheduled programming...

All "Pie's" replied to!


http://www.bradyhour.com/old4.jpg

how much BHP does a BHR add to a P.I.E.?

you guys crack me up :)

Charles (and I) are showing our age by him cracking out a "Mr Mom" line and me getting it.

Let me try and drag this thread kicking and screaming back to the topic. I've got about 500 miles on my BHR coils now and I still love them. Car runs great, no issues at all. Thank you Charles, for making such a fantastic piece of kit.

meat curtains... discuss.

meat curtains... discuss.

http://nerdapproved.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/08/meat-shower-curtain.jpg

what do you AT owners think about this ignition kit that have it installed?

OMG! Any day now...I'm dieing here!

what do you AT owners think about this ignition kit that have it installed?

I don't really know how many AT owners have the kit at present. Besides myself.
I may be a little bit biased, but I love it. So far with about 10,000 miles on it and not a single issue. Smoother idle and smoother power. But the main thing is I don't have to worry about a misfire anywhere in the RPM range. Even up to 9000. (This is an AT I'm referring too.)

I don't really know how many AT owners have the kit at present. Besides myself.
I may be a little bit biased, but I love it. So far with about 10,000 miles on it and not a single issue. Smoother idle and smoother power. But the main thing is I don't have to worry about a misfire anywhere in the RPM range. Even up to 9000. (This is an AT I'm referring too.)

Wait you got your 4AT to have a 9000 RPM redline without blowing anything? What parts would you need to do this, besides the accessport, to achieve this redline safely?

The automatic transmissions are actually tougher then the MT transmissions in some respects, you'd be surprised.

The automatic transmissions are actually tougher then the MT transmissions in some respects, you'd be surprised.

Really? I would have thought the torque converter couldn't handle the excess load based on what everyone has been saying. So 9000 RPM wouldn't be catastrophic for a DD and would have no problems?

Wait you got your 4AT to have a 9000 RPM redline without blowing anything? What parts would you need to do this, besides the accessport, to achieve this redline safely?

Accessport and tuning.

Really? I would have thought the torque converter couldn't handle the excess load based on what everyone has been saying. So 9000 RPM wouldn't be catastrophic for a DD and would have no problems?

I have seen nothing abnormal yet. I do need to change the fluid. It's about due.
In the old day''s I had an RX4 that was an AT. It would redline at over 10,000 rpm. Never had a single issue with that transmission.

Accessport and tuning.

Any additional cooling needed, like a tranny cooler?

thanks Easy

yea i just paid for my ignition kit can't wait to get it

Ray, thanks for the super fast shipping on my kit. Install will happen soon, I'll keep ya posted.

how can you test these coils to make sure they are good?

how can you test these coils to make sure they are good?

Easy way is to just hook a plug up to the wire, power it, ground it and hit the trigger.
Look for fireworks.

If I hold the plug against my tongue would that work too?

If I hold the plug against my tongue would that work too?

Yes. Take pics. :eyetwitch

I want a video

I think video would capture the agonizing scream much better then a picture.

I think video would capture the agonizing scream much better then a picture.
:yesnod:

$5 if you post it on youtube

5 dollars wouldn't even cover my co-pay for the visit to the ER... pfft.

Jedi you may want me to come over or you can come here for help.

I am a specialist concerning jacks.

Haaaaaaaaaaaaa


face!

Jedi you may want me to come over or you can come here for help.

I am a specialist concerning jacks.

Haaaaaaaaaaaaa


face!

look who'se talking..... remember this?
http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=150263&highlight=jack

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/paulmasoner/0703081801a.jpg

I was WAITING FOR THAT!!!!


Funny ass shit.

BTW - I may be the only guy in history to move to coilovers to lift my car up....

Maybe one day I'll receive my set of coils and I'll be able to post my impression here. I'm even offering a nice before/after video comparaison, taking in consideration that my car is currently running like shit on one rotor.
This could be high praise for BHR coils.
*waiting since november 2008* *and still hoping*

I am another 4 pot owner with the BHR Kit. Only have about 250 miles on these coils so far. No issues. The power is smoother. Idle is the same since i believe my motor mounts are shot. Need to replace them soon.

hey guys i got my coils a few weeks ago put them on No issues and right away i noticed it has smoother idle better start up good power no more dam missfires thats good but no diference in my MPG.

Did you get more power?

Coil input wire colors can confirm the correct order.
1) Green coil input wire is Leading plug front rotor (bottom-front spark plug)
2) White coil input wire is trailing plug front rotor (top-front spark plug)
3) Yellow coil input wire is Leading plug rear rotor (bottom-rear spark plug)
4) Blue coil input wire is trailing plug rear rotor (top-rear spark plug)

Coil input wire colors can confirm the correct order.
1) Green coil input wire is Leading plug front rotor (bottom-front spark plug)
2) White coil input wire is trailing plug front rotor (top-front spark plug)
3) Yellow coil input wire is Leading plug rear rotor (bottom-rear spark plug)
4) Blue coil input wire is trailing plug rear rotor (top-rear spark plug)

Yes....if you have the OEM wires!

If not, then just follow this!


http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135590&d=1237676968

it feals better and responds better so i would say yes

ok so something happened to me last night and i think it may be the coils

I used the car all day yesterday without any problems then at night I left home to go pick up my gf and the car idled perfectly but when I got on the accel it would go pig rich all of a sudden very strange. I know Im not fully tuned but it didint do this before and there we no vac leaks or the idle would have been off. This morning I woke up and checked the engine I just checked the plugs on the coil side and on the spark plug side, made sure they were tightened and after I did that the car was fine. The plugs looked fine though, they didnt look loose or anything.

Any thoughts?

ok so something happened to me last night and i think it may be the coils

I used the car all day yesterday without any problems then at night I left home to go pick up my gf and the car idled perfectly but when I got on the accel it would go pig rich all of a sudden very strange. I know Im not fully tuned but it didint do this before and there we no vac leaks or the idle would have been off. This morning I woke up and checked the engine I just checked the plugs on the coil side and on the spark plug side, made sure they were tightened and after I did that the car was fine. The plugs looked fine though, they didnt look loose or anything.

Any thoughts?

If there are any problems with the terminals on the coil side you would be getting misfires during idle.

If it's simply a case of your air/fuel rations going rich, that's a tuning issue not an ignition issue.

I dont think its a tuning issue because it didnt do it before and it didnt do it today it was just last night, and when I got on the accel it felt like when the ground on the ignition was not correct. And correct me if im wrong but if the car doesnt ignite the fuel the AFR will go rich. And it wasnt only rich, it felt horrible like it wanted to turn off.

This is not entirely true, if you have a coil failing your engine would not be able to ignite the fuel causing it to go "pig rich". Currently my car is having issues and will not rev past 4k. I called mazda they said I might have 1 flooded rotor and the culperit might be a bad coil. I will let you know as soon as i recieve my BHR coils.

not to mention not in boost if i WOT it I will get to about 2500 RPM's and my AFR's will hover around 11.5 or so. I had the car tuned and everything was fine until i got a haircut.

I dont think its a tuning issue because it didnt do it before and it didnt do it today it was just last night, and when I got on the accel it felt like when the ground on the ignition was not correct. And correct me if im wrong but if the car doesnt ignite the fuel the AFR will go rich. And it wasnt only rich, it felt horrible like it wanted to turn off.
where did you ground your ignition?

right now its grounded to a place under the master cilinder to the upper right side of th engine bay. the first time it was installed in a bad place

Got mine installed today in an hr & 15 min. (Was trying to get it installed before class) immediately noticed a much smoother & steady idle. My vac also went up.
I'm running a Pull through setup and I don't have my BOV recirculated, so whenever I let off the gas pedal it goes rich & backfires. It did this quite frequently prior to installing ignition but now barely does it. It only backfired once on the drive to school & that was from a hard & long pull.

I also noticed spool up was noticieably quicker.

Still have some more testing out to do but will have to wait until class over with.

Ok guys I have a question. I was looking at the Coils today because again I had that problem where it would idle rich so I opened my hood to check on the plugs and I noticed that the second coil, if you start couing from farthest to the throttle body, is rubbing against a piece of metal that is bolted onto the motor. That piece is rubbing agaisnt the wires that plug into the coil. Is it normal for it to be that close? It looks like it is pressing against the wires and that could be my problem.

Any tips? Help?

Is it the engine hoist your talking about? I removed mine altogether it was just the two bolts, and put the bolts back in. Or you could try bending it out of the way.

Ok guys I have a question. I was looking at the Coils today because again I had that problem where it would idle rich so I opened my hood to check on the plugs and I noticed that the second coil, if you start couing from farthest to the throttle body, is rubbing against a piece of metal that is bolted onto the motor. That piece is rubbing agaisnt the wires that plug into the coil. Is it normal for it to be that close? It looks like it is pressing against the wires and that could be my problem.

Any tips? Help?

I had noticed the same thing when I installed mine. All you have to do is losen all four bolts, push the ignition mount as far down as possible and tighten them again. Should fix the rubbing. Well, I know it did with mine?

I had noticed the same thing when I installed mine. All you have to do is losen all four bolts, push the ignition mount as far down as possible and tighten them again. Should fix the rubbing. Well, I know it did with mine?

ill try removing all 4 bolts first and moving it first to see if it fixes the problem. If not then ill try to bend the metal a bit.

I installed mine last night with no problems. Before you start make sure you gather all your tools. I found the BHR instructions to be pretty good, but I found a couple threads in the DIY about installing them that helped.

If you've never taken your airbox out before this could be a little difficult. Watch a video on youtube or something before you attempt it. You need to use a little bit of force to push it back into the engine bay to get the bottom hooks out of where the intake sits . Just pushing back and up a little bit perhaps is all you need to do. Maybe wiggle it a little bit, but you do need some good force behind it. You could probably leave the airbox in if you just take out the tubing between the throttle body with that little black box on it. Only a phillips head screwdriver for that. Once that is gone you have access to the coils, and taking them off is pretty easy. Just unplug them and pull the wires off. Might need to lift up around the base of the wire on the old coils to get them off. They weren't on very tight on my 05 with 30k miles. Now pull the wires from the plugs. The first two you can reach are not that hard, but the trailing plug on the back rotor is hard to get to. All I can say is good luck, my skinny arm was able to get down there far enough standing over the wheel to get it off.

When you try to put the new coils in there make sure before you do that you have unwound the grounding cable. I made that mistake! Also put the spacers in before you try the coils. I found getting the nuts on with the BHR coils was difficult. I was only able to tighten them by hand, but I'm OK with that as long as it doesn't pose a problem in the future. If anyone thinks this is bad please let me know! I had to unplug this tubing bracket next to it before I could fit it in. Don't ask me what it is, because I've no idea!

After you get the new plug wires on the plugs your next step is the grounding wire. There wasn't really any instruction for this from BHR, as it is a simple grounding hoop. All you do is strip the provided grounding wire to expose the copper, and feed it through the yellow plastic housing. Take your crimping tool and clamp it down over the copper to create the ground. Then you take the nut off your master brake cylinder, put the hoop on like a washer, and screw it back in tight to complete your ground.

And that's an IT guy's take on it. I have little to no experience working on cars. Just computers :) The install isn't that hard if you take your time. But, with that said, I can see a lot of people having trouble getting their hands to fit down where the plugs are, screwing the nuts back on the coils, or even connecting them back up. It's just a tight space to work. Remember, pictures are worth a thousand words. Take a look through the thread here for some good diagrams if you're lost.

Also for anyone reading I'd be glad to give an 8club member a hand installing these if you're in the central VA area. PM me.

-Greg

Do you guys think I should start to install and crimp the ground hoop before shipping? I don't do it now because I thought each person would have a different routing for their ground wire but if it is better to crimp the ground hoop on, I will.

We have also made some minor changes that should ease installation and improve fitment a little bit.

I think if you intend to market it as a "bolt-on" it'd be a good idea. I'd bet most people are going to put it up there by the master brake cylinder and just call it a day.

Edit: Put it this way, it cuts down on the tools necessary :)