Well I got my second hand Greddy turbo kit a few weeks back .
Here is what I've done so far

Wonder what's under here ?
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/t5.jpg

bugger me if it isn't a tubo timer and boost control
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/Turbo5.jpg

Don't know about the white face but the location is pretty good
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/t6.jpg

This is the oil cooler Swoope got for me - except it's not an oil cooler - it's a 2nd radiator - don't know if this is a good idea yet
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/t2.jpg

What's that behind the grill - stealth man
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/t1.jpg

Hope this will do the job - it's the Greddy with upgraded compressor wheel
I had to get the unit rebuilt locally as it was leaking oil and had excessive sideplay
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/t3.jpg

mmmmmm round and round
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/t4.jpg

Extreme Ceramic coated manifold . Think this was a good move seeing now how close the turbo compressor housing is to the manifold
also coated the turbo inlet and outlet for no good reason ....

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/ceramiccoat.jpg

Kewl - Stealth is the new hotness.

Be sure to wrap that bad boy.

Manifold is getting the ceramic coating treatment - what should I wrap the turbo with ?

DEI makes a good DIY turbo blanket kit.

Manifold is getting the ceramic coating treatment - what should I wrap the turbo with ?

Trick question!

The answer is nothing, cause you'll be pulling it out in a year when the bearings need to be replaced again. Gives you time to save up for the 3071R though :)

Trick question!

The answer is nothing, cause you'll be pulling it out in a year when the bearings need to be replaced again. Gives you time to save up for the 3071R though :)

:lol2:

Trick question!

The answer is nothing, cause you'll be pulling it out in a year when the bearings need to be replaced again. Gives you time to save up for the 3071R though :)
that's my plan! :)

good luck Brettus, can't wait to see this all done. what kind of gauge is that?

yeah - that is a pretty bad picture allright .
It's an AEM ugeo - but i might not be able to use it because im missing the male plug to the sensor .The little things take sooooo much time

The faceplate on the AEM is reversible so you can make it black, if you like.

oh shit - thanks for that Ray .....

Unscrew the aluminum-colored bezel ring and, VOILA, flip over the gauge face.

The one I bought was not reversible, but there where three faceplates included with it. A black Air/Fuel Ratio, a white Air/Fuel Ratio, and a black Lambda Ratio. ALl three are tin/aluminum with the part number stamped on the back.

The faceplate on the AEM is reversible so you can make it black, if you like.

You are correct, atl8, and I was mistaken. I was playing with Phil's new gauges a few weeks ago and set his up for him.

yes he was right :( . So has phil got a black guage face he doesn't want ? heh

I am not sure. PM him and ask.

I'm tickled to see Brettus with a turbo install thread. Good luck with your install!



<--Long time lurker

this is going to be a fun with brettus pain thread..

wow..

more stuff comming!

beers :beer:

Turbo is in . Not as bad to install as I was expecting . Taking both engine mounts off definately helped . Have run into an issue with the steering shaft getting in the way of the pipework (RHD ) . I'm going to sleep on it and see what I can do in the morning .
Pics to come .
Had two people lined up to help but neither could make it so I'm just taking my time doing the whole thing myself .

Good news Brettus.... well mostly.

Glad things are moving along for you.

Same thing for me Brettus. I had a friend that was supposed to help me, but forgot that he was going away for the weekend of the install.....So I ended up doing it most of it myself. I was sore for the next 4 days because of it. Working on your back is no fun. I had so many cuts on my arms and hands too...lol.

BTW, question for you....is your car a 5 speed 4 port or 6? or 6 speed 6 port..? that whole JDM thing confuses me.

it's a 6 speed 6port

today was a waste - got nothing done :(

i'll tell you what, fly me out there and i'll help you all you want. :D

it's a 6 speed 6port

today was a waste - got nothing done :(

I know how bad the "nothing to do" days are. stick with it brettus, the smile on your face after your first drive will be worth the effort!

it's a 6 speed 6port

today was a waste - got nothing done :(

my bad :wallbash:

Getting set up
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/turbo10.jpg

Out they come
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/turbo11.jpg

Tight as a fishes arse in there !!!!
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/turbo14.jpg

Finally getting somewhere now . Should have it running later today or tomorrow .
Took most of yesterday to get the fricken pipes around the steering shaft - I'm sure the kit must be different for RHD cars ....

how'd you solve the plumbing issue? Glad you're making progress!

I post up the tools i used later - that will give you some idea lol

that would be a great help.

No photos of the tools - suffice it to say that a sledge hammer was involved.
See the pipe below - I had to squash it to get it to clear the steering linkages . Also had to grind away some of the power steering bracket and take to one part of the bodywork with a sledge hammer .
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/t16.jpg

Pic does not show it well but it all clears now ...
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/t17.jpg

And for the money shot
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/t19.jpg

so is all fitting on to the car ? brettus congrats :)

IT"S ALIVE

Started it up tonight She fired right up first try .
Had no maps to work with so had to start from scratch with the tuning. It's a cool night so i've been able to get away with some lean mixtures till I dial it in .

I had to pick up my daughter from a party at around 11.00pm and as I pulled up to the house a group of guys called out - "Hey is that turboed ? "
"What makes you think that ?" I said
"We could hear the blowoff valve , man that's one very cool car you got there."
Heh - and I was going for the stealth approach !

Only issues I have so far are a leaking gasket between cat and downpipe and the hose clamp on the inlet hose to the turbo has slipped off . I had to get the pipe modified to clear the steering column - I bloody knew I should have got them to weld a bead around the end of it while it was there :(

Hey Brettus...

I have bad news for you. Turbos generate more heat than superchargers and the boost is harsher on the engine. It was a prank 3 years in the making, but it was so worth it. lol

It's looking great.

Hey Brettus...

I have bad news for you. Turbos generate more heat than superchargers and the boost is harsher on the engine. It was a prank 3 years in the making, but it was so worth it. lol

It's looking great.

Oh shit - now you tell me :lol:

Woot!!!

Congrats man.

[B]

We could hear the blowoff valve


i thort you plumed your blowoff valve ? so you can't hear it ?

so what sort of sound does your blow off valve make pusshhhhhh or kululululu noise ?

kululululu?

:lol:

video or it didn't happen :lol:

congrats brettus!

heh - wondering how long it would be before the video remark .

I'm still running on low boost ATM (4-5 psi) and tuning with the Powermod . On Tuesday I'm getting flashed by Hymee - well we are going to use Hymees' Protuner with a SC map as a base . Once I am able to go WOT at 8 PSI i'll do the vid :)

heh - wondering how long it would be before the video remark .

On Tuesday I'm getting flashed by Hymee - i'll do the vid :)

uh, that sounds kinda dirty, but if you are willing to do a video, well? :lol:

btw, great support... hymee is in the game. glad it is going well.. :)

beers :beer:

hymees base map should work well out of the box (so to speak). I'm using hymee's tuning package also and it worked wonders for me.

I would still suggest holding on to the power mod and tuning it to the 8psi to see what works and transfer it over to the flash: only because I feel std alone managements tend to be easier to tune on a dyno in real time. however I have been known to be wrong :D

Some good and bad news

Found I have a pinhole in the greddy manifold - the good news is it can be got to without taking anything apart .
Would brazing be a good way to repair this ?

Also have found the Powermod does not give me a fine enough adjustment to keep the afrs steady :(

uh, that sounds kinda dirty, but if you are willing to do a video, well? :lol:

btw, great support... hymee is in the game. glad it is going well.. :)

beers :beer:
Only you would make that comment LOL
don't think hymee would apreciate his flash being posted - either way ;)

A pinhole? Did you buy the kit used?

My gut says no to brazing;since the temps get so high in this location - but I am not really an expert so who knows.... But I would weld.

yes - used kit so no comeback on Greddy ....

I'm wondering about just leaving it - it's probably smaller in dia. than a pin ....

That would be unprofessional....

Plus it can cause some heat issues in the engine bay.... I think you are gonna need to bite the bullet on this one.

the manifold may expand as it heats up and closes the hole when the vehicle is warm.

a small hole will make a lot of exhaust noise though. If you can't hear it, then I wouldn't worry about it.

OK - very excited right now . Just did my first WOT pulls up to 6000rpm - f**k this thing is exhilarating to drive - very impressed .
Engine runs as smooth as silk
Still only at 5 PSI !!!!

WOOT!!!!! It makes the car a whole new level of fun eh?

Dang right there - sooo tempting to take it all the way but concerned about if the Mazsport coils on factory dwell will do an mysql on me - heh .

also have a lean spot at 3700 which i can't get rid of - will see if Hymee can stage the secondary injectors in a little earlier ...

Yeah that would be bad. Time for the neverending cycle of tuning and changing parts....... MUUUHAHAHAHAAH :evil_laug

my wife thinks it's all finished mwahaha

Get her a tuner car..... now I can spend lots of money without getting yelled at - it just has to be on her ride.... LOLOL

how did you got with tuneing just with the powermod ??
you have to take me for a drive sometime, and did you have anyluck with your barke pads ?

heh. 5 psi is like 240 whp. You haven't seen anything yet!

Drove over to Thames yesterday to get Dave (rotorman) to reflash the ecu

After much dicking around and frantic phonecalls to Hymee (who was in the middle of Melbourne cup celebrations). We Did It !!!!!

In one foul swoop (sorry Swoope) we did the following

Reduced the redline to 8500
Turned on the fans on earlier
ELIMINATED THE SPEED LIMITER (that has plagued me all this time )
Loaded a SC map for boost

I was quite stunned to find Hymees' map got me almost spot on AFRs immeadiately - and amazingly consistent all the way to the redline . I'd never seen it as good in all my stuffing about with N/A tuning.
Will post a graph later .

So how does it drive - I'ts like OEM but with heaps more power everywhere in the rev range. That is probably the best way to descibe it .
I have not heard this from other FI guys but the motor now feels so much smoother than when it was NA . Acceleration just seems so effortless - kind of like having a v8 under the bonnet (but better) .

Today I start playing with the boost controller - aiming for 8 psi .


Big thanks to Dave for persevering - it was definately worth it !
And to Hymee - hope we didn't drag you away from the champagne and strawberries for too long :)

If the map is based on airflow... more airflow = more fuel, thus the sc map should work well on your turbo car.

remember, for the gains you feel now, the 3071R literally doubles it.

I'm seeing 288 g/s MAF at 8500 - what do you see and is this an indication of the power output ?

ELIMINATED THE SPEED LIMITER (that has plagued me all this time )



Big thanks to Dave for persevering - it was definately worth it !
And to Hymee - hope we didn't drag you away from the champagne and strawberries for too long :)

great to hear brett!! and the speed limiter, has to be huge for you! ;)

beers :beer:

288 is ok at 8.5 and a fair indicator of power. I have at times seen close to 300 at around 8.5-8.7. Not comparing now--it doesnt mean mine is better etc etc.
Since you now have some torque(remember that?) dont load the engine below 3-3.5K. Its easy to do because the power is there. But the engine actually does not like low rpms. centrifucal(spelling and I dont care:)) force is our friend!
OD

Since you now have some torque(remember that?) dont load the engine below 3-3.5K. Its easy to do because the power is there. But the engine actually does not like low rpms. OD

Why is that ? Mine feel comfortable at low rpm - it's not like it is labouring or anything .

boost in low rpm is fine... but because the rpm is low and all, it's not like you'll be able to make 300 whp there.

Grats Brettus, must be a BLAST to drive!

Why is that ? Mine feel comfortable at low rpm - it's not like it is labouring or anything .

You may want to take a look at the OMP values and adjust if you think it might be necessary based on where your car is now making torque. I can't recall what the stock table looks like... it's possible it's fine as is.

You may want to take a look at the OMP values and adjust if you think it might be necessary based on where your car is now making torque. I can't recall what the stock table looks like... it's possible it's fine as is.


Pretty sure Hymee has upped all the OMP settings with his SC map and I premix as well so I think i'll be OK

Grats Brettus, must be a BLAST to drive!

Yes - yes it is :)
Unfortunately my Laptop died on the way home from Rotormans' place so i haven't done any more tuning with boost controller :(

Brettus,

I believe Hymee has already found a way to edit the DWELL for Mazsport Ignition Solution.

Congrats on the turbo kit and the speed de-limiter!


Anji.

hey brett,

how does it feel to go over 125mph? cause i know you have done it! ;)

beers :beer:

Well yes , but it was on a private road - of course ;) .

Brettus,

I believe Hymee has already found a way to edit the DWELL for Mazsport Ignition Solution.

Congrats on the turbo kit and the speed de-limiter!


Anji.

Yes - I looked at the dwell maps and found the lowest number on them was 395 at 9000rpm (which is probably 3.95ms ? ) and is more than Scott recomended for his coils at 3.5ms . So i left it as is . Was a little nervous about it but it all seems good so far at 6psi ....
This does raise some interesting questions about mysql's issue but I'll leave that for another thread.

our seals use centrifigul force to help seal everything.--faster you spin the rotors the tighter/better the sealing --to a certain point of course..
Most folks more experienced than I have told me to not lug the engine--even though now you have the power to comfortably accelerate in 6th gear while at 2K-- it doesnt mean that it is a good thing to do. Blow by etc were listed as reasons not to.
Actually also-- in theory --detonation is also more likely to occur at lower rpms.
Besides its one hell of a lot more fun to wind that baby up a little!
OD

Tried running with the BOV venting to atmosphere this morning so I could hear the pssssssh noise . heh .
I was deccelerating past a bunch of school kids and it let out an almighty backfire scaring the crap out of poor little tykes .
Runs heaps better on recirc so I'll leave the pssssh noises to the boy racers .

The coil dwell is in milliseconds, so 395 is .395ms, which is the stock value across all voltages at 9000. I've seen Scott recommend using values of 3-3.5ms for FI, and how 2.0 is "adequate" for NA applications. But I've never seen the actual ratings for the Mazsport coils posted anywhere.

Regardless, the stock table interpolates the values from highest value top down by battery voltage, and right to left by RPM so I find it unlikely that 3000 or 3500 would be what you'd want to set it to at 9K.

Yes - I looked at the dwell maps and found the lowest number on them was 395 at 9000rpm (which is probably 3.95ms ? ) and is more than Scott recomended for his coils at 3.5ms . So i left it as is . Was a little nervous about it but it all seems good so far at 6psi .....

So jealous...brain hurts.... ....I mean, congratulations. :)

The coil dwell is in milliseconds, so 395 is .395ms, which is the stock value across all voltages at 9000. I've seen Scott recommend using values of 3-3.5ms for FI, and how 2.0 is "adequate" for NA applications. But I've never seen the actual ratings for the Mazsport coils posted anywhere.

Regardless, the stock table interpolates the values from highest value top down by battery voltage, and right to left by RPM so I find it unlikely that 3000 or 3500 would be what you'd want to set it to at 9K.

Yeah - talked with Hymee about that . We think the stock table is ms x100
so 395 = 3.95ms .
Going back to first principles ....
at 9000 rpm we have 3000 rpm of the rotor but 3 firings per rev so 9000 firings per min = 1 firing every 6.7ms
So the stock dwell of 3.95ms makes sense
Also at 1000rpm we have a firing every 60ms and the table is 1800 at 1000rpm .
Again 18ms of dwell would make sense there as well . 0.18ms or 1.8ms does not .

288 is ok at 8.5 and a fair indicator of power. I have at times seen close to 300 at around 8.5-8.7. Not comparing now--it doesnt mean mine is better etc etc.
...
OD

so has anyone referenced 280-290g/s (kind of need to know @ what rpm too) to a dyno reading?

Latest runs show i'm getting 300g/s

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/MAFchart.jpg

Getting AFRs pretty well nailed ...

Boost is currently 7.5psi up to about 6000rpm then tapering down to 5.1psi at 8250rpm

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/AFRtune.jpg

Get those numbers up to the 12.3's and you should be happy.

congrats man, I wish my AFR's were that close!

Do you think that will give me a few extra horsies ?

12 to 12.3 will get you more HP. On the edge though.

You asked for the videos so here goes .
First one is through the gears , not really trying i get 0-160km/hr in 12.7 sec . Would be under 12s if i took it to 9k in third !!!!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkiV4sgu65E


This one is from when I was still NA , 0-160km/hr in 15.7sec with one less gear change (higher red line)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzlvSC_8N-Y

If you have them both open at once and click on the Turbo one after the NA has been running 4sec you will get a good idea of the difference .

nice!

I'm seeing 288 g/s MAF at 8500 - what do you see and is this an indication of the power output ?


in my experience in this car G/S is nearly exactly the flywheel HP

oh and good on ya Brettus:D:

cheers for that zoom . Dyno is booked for tomorrow afternoon ;)

Here's one of mine to compare. I was down over 40 whp on the dyno with this configuration.

Coolant MAF ThrottleO2 Load IAT RPM MPH
203 241.43 100 12.07 86.67 93 5668 59.03
203 248.71 100 12.06 86.27 93 5779 60.28
203 250.98 100 12.18 86.27 93 5869 61.52
203 256.99 100 12.39 86.67 93 5959 62.14
203 261.31 100 12.55 85.88 93 6069 63.38
203 263.7 100 12.62 85.49 93 6153 64.63
203 270.9 100 12.48 84.71 93 6256 65.25
203 270.9 100 12.27 83.92 93 6334 66.49
203 265.14 100 12.14 81.57 93 6436 67.11
203 271.38 100 12.66 81.18 93 6542 68.35
203 277.14 100 12.74 81.57 93 6648 69.6
203 289.79 100 12.5 83.53 93 6743 70.84
203 295.88 100 12.43 83.53 93 6860 71.46
203 301.48 100 12.29 82.75 93 6970 72.7
203 309.97 100 12.29 82.75 93 7062 73.33
203 305.7 100 12.22 83.14 93 7138 74.57
203 314.24 100 12.09 83.14 93 7239 75.81
203 314.24 100 11.99 82.35 93 7340 76.43
203 324.02 100 11.85 82.35 93 7410 77.68
203 317.98 100 11.64 80 93 7510 78.3
203 318.51 100 11.65 80.39 93 7557 78.92
204.8 321.25 100 11.68 79.61 93 7673 80.16
204.8 322.91 100 11.78 77.65 93 7785 80.78
203 331.24 80 11.82 78.04 93 7786 82.02
204.8 318.54 24.31 11.35 65.88 93 7847 81.4
204.8 27 3.92 11.87 14.51 93 7327 81.4
204.8 33.41 3.53 11.33 8.63 93 6888 80.78

^ That's with the AccessPort btw.

/\ quite a noticable difference - what PSI were you running ?

A little experiment . The Greddy gives peak power at around 6krpm so I thought I would try some short shifting to see if it is worth going past 7k shift point.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ItRibHBMLc

Result 13.0s flat 0-160km/hr . A tad slower but in the same ballpark - interesting . I think i'll shift around 7500 at the track

olddragger shifts at the same point on the track with the pettit kit.. :)

the fi takes all the shifting out of track days!!! :)

beers :beer:

OK, here's the dyno run when I was really down on HP. I also data logged and video tapped it.

The MAF and RPM numbers that were logged during the dyno session:


MAF RPM
302.01 6622
309.97 6719
316.38 6791
317.45 6896
331.24 7007
335.13 7094
339.07 7202
340.78 7287
343.07 7393
344.21 7492
331.24 8085

It's going to be difficult to make sense of this since the car wasn't working properly. I guess this is a good example what it looks like with the AP and not setting the dwell on the "upgrade" coils. So with properly functioning coils the same g/sec would likely have produced more power. I don't have data logs of previous dyno runs to compare unfortunately.

Here is the video footage of the dyno run: http://tyrannical.org/baddyno.wmv

You can hear it breaking up..

And finally, here's the dyno chart (I'm also including the raw .csv and .drf):

317.98 g/s @ 7500 from the first post

vs

344.21 g/s at 7492 in you latest post

you're off nearly 30 g/s just between these 2 runs and you say the second post is low as well?

boost levels are likely different. I was only data logging because the car wasn't running properly. Otherwise I wouldn't have bothered making logs..

I posted the wrong dyno picture earlier, so I've corrected it and included the raw log from the data logger and the dynojet .drf file.

gotcha

. I guess this is a good example what it looks like with the AP and not setting the dwell on the "upgrade" coils.

just speculating here .... My Mazsport coils have been good with stock dwell settings up to 8psi (so far) .
So ...... it seems your problem is more likely caused by wrong dwell when you were running the Int x .
Stock dwell seems ok . If anyone can shed more light on this i'm all ears .

That is completely possible.

Here is the dyno
Red line is without the boost controller.
Blue line is with boost set to 8PSI
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/TurboDyno.jpg

Impressed with the top end vs the stock Greddy
The peak number is OK but not startling 193kw = 259hp

you can go up a bit more, try it at 9 or 10 psi.

the numbers may not be huge, but i bet it feels a heck of a lot faster than before :)

Yes it is night and day :)

Bit dissapointed about how she only holds 8 psi to 5000 ish - perhaps there is more i can do with the boost controller ......

Yeah some BC tuning should help you out - getting 10 PSI down low with the Greddy shouldn't be hard.

You should see boost drop to 6 psi range in the upper rpms unless your wheel can flow a bit more.

Brettus

Do you think the turbo and the manifold of a Mazsport Type 3 clear the steering on our RHD RX8? I wonder how you got your greddy around the steering...

no idea about the Mazsport . The Greddy was a mission to get around it but doable . If you have the Greddy kit i'm more than happy to explain how I did it - without the unecessary stuff i did .....

here are some more pic
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t290/yushinrt/13112008385.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t290/yushinrt/13112008384.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t290/yushinrt/13112008383.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t290/yushinrt/13112008382.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t290/yushinrt/13112008380.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t290/yushinrt/13112008379.jpg

So why are they calling it a NO RX8? When will it become a YES RX8?

Someone asked me if he could have it seeing as it was no-ones' RX8 ... smart arse!

Have managed to get boost up a little in the higher rpm range (staying at 8psi) by increasing the gain . Now am at8psi at 6000 and 7psi at 7000.What that does however is create a bigger spike earlier on .


Just found a note on another thread where MM says the stock spring on the actuator is not stiff enough to hold high boost past 6500 which would explain what is going on . Will look into what I can do there .....

look at the plate it mean number one rx8

Hi Jim,

The 'funny feelings' thing he's referring to is what I guessed was a lack of spark energy on the back-end. Turned out I was right. IIRC, the dwell was originally set to 2ms by Scott but then I left it around 3.2ms. Not being familiar with the hardware then, I decided not to experiment with it.
B


Stole this quote from the Esmeril thread - seems to back up what I was suggesting earlier .
It seems Scott originally set the interceptor x dwell times to 2.0ms for ALL applications.
Stock dwell , if my theory on the tables is correct is a lot higher than that and that would explain why many people did not have problems with the Mazsport coils who did not have the interceptor x .
This is just speculation from third party hearsay and the interpretation of the stock dwell tables that Hymee & I came up with . BUT , it would explain a lot of the issues people had with those coils earlier on .

Yes it is night and day :)

Bit dissapointed about how she only holds 8 psi to 5000 ish - perhaps there is more i can do with the boost controller ......

You need a wastegate actuator with a larger diaphragm.

Yep - figured that out from an old post of yours :)
am going to adjust the actuator arm as much as i can and see what I can get . I'm only aiming for 8psi and that might just get me close .....

OK did that - adjusted the actuator right in as far as i could .
Without boost controller it now runs at 7 psi tapering to 6.3psi at 8000 .
With boost controller i have it at 8psi through to about 6500 then 7.0 at 7600 and 6.3 at 8000 .
Mass airflow is now up around 315 g/s .
I'm happy with that - it will be up around 270 -280hp which was what i was hoping for .
Don't seem to be getting a lot of benefit from the upgraded cold side . I wont ever know unless i put the bigger actuator on i guess .

also have noticed secondary injectors are at 100% duty cycle so i dont think I should go any further without bigger injectors .....

That is still VERY respectable.

Yeah for power.

good job.

done right..

beers :beer:

thanks guys .... :)

will any of these (http://himni-racing.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=26_41&zenid=p9mdf54c9cul6im2tevk20udr2) work?

Yeah most of them will - might have to fab a braket; but that isn't too hard.

Yeah most of them will - might have to fab a braket; but that isn't too hard.

they sell the brackets too.

Have to measure to see if they clear; with a little 110v welder and some crappy skills; you can make your own faster - or modify one of theirs if it doesn't fit.

MM gave me some pointers on the Greddy cold side upgrade thread . So I spent the day playing :)

This is what I learnded
*I need to run the turbo at a higher pressure to stay in it's efficiency range for longer.
*also need to shift earlier - around 7500 because the turbo goes out of its efficiency range before then.
*With the wastegate adjusted ,the turbo holds 9.5 psi at it's outlet all the way to the redline ......... But at as the revs go up the losses through the system reduce that pressure by as much as 2.5 psi at the manifold .
*Mashing the throttle at 10 psi in 2nd gear will cause fast and furious tokyo drifts . Note to self -need to learn throttle control .

think I must be awfully close to 300hp now

Respect (Jamacian Accent) F&F driving

I rarely go WOT anymore - no need 99.99% of the time.

MM gave me some pointers on the Greddy cold side upgrade thread . So I spent the day playing :)

This is what I learnded
*I need to run the turbo at a higher pressure to stay in it's efficiency range for longer.
*also need to shift earlier - around 7500 because the turbo goes out of its efficiency range before then.
*With the wastegate adjusted ,the turbo holds 9.5 psi at it's outlet all the way to the redline ......... But at as the revs go up the losses through the system reduce that pressure by as much as 2.5 psi at the manifold .
*Mashing the throttle at 10 psi in 2nd gear will cause fast and furious tokyo drifts . Note to self -need to learn throttle control .

think I must be awfully close to 300hp now


If you're shifting at 7500, you're going to find yourself still at 250 range :P

The amount of time you're spending trying to figure out how to bandaid it would be better spent drooling over the 3071R

I beg to differ ......

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64944&d=1134421485

Yes the bigger turbo would be awesome - but i'm having plenty of fun with what i already have and depending on how long it lasts i may just keep rebuilding it instead of upgrading

Ahh, the PFSC dyno.
Replicate that, please.

I beg to differ ......

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64944&d=1134421485

No one has gotten close to that dyno result. Typical greddy turbo result is what mine had. So you'll be doing well if you can hit 280 whp and 220 tq.

Don't get defensive about it - I'm not attacking you :)

no worries - not getting defensive . Just putting my opinion across as you know i like to do ;)

actually, on second thought, because the greddy peaks early, you really might not have any drawbacks with shifting at 7500. The 9k limit is useful if you need to stay in gear for a little bit longer.

Less wear on the transmission FTW.

On the track, I've played around with shift points and 8200 is pretty much as far as I need to go with all this power down low.
Really, to keep temps down, I end up shifting at 7200.

Looking at my existing dyno and the difference between my two runs , i'm thinking around 275 -280 hp at 7000 and around 7.5 psi at the manifold is realistic .
The 300 does look a bit high ......

Now that we are all friends again - let's go pick on some NA people....

good idea. Those guys really piss me off. Why do they hate having power?

I know - totally lame;

Let's go shoot some over-rich non-cat turbo fumes/flames at them....

I know - totally lame;

Let's go shoot some over-rich non-cat turbo fumes/flames at them....

hey! wait for me! .... i mean really wait, for a while still :(

good idea. Those guys really piss me off. Why do they hate having power?

aren't you still N/A?

aren't you still N/A?

Yeah, I hate that guy too. He reminds me of everything that is wrong with the world.



I'm waiting for the BHR LS2 drop in kit so that I can make fun of all the FI people. God I hate those guys.

lol. so were you using an AEM intake with your turbo kit for the MAF housing?

Pushrods..... who uses those things anymore?

You can if you wanted. I was using a custom CAI that MazdaManiac made for me.

Been playing around with my boost controller . Trying to get a steady 10psi through to as high a rpm as i can . Have managed to make 9psi at 7000rpm (so I know the turbo will push enough air ) but this is at the expense of too much boost early on .
This brings a few problems as the huge rush of torque with more than 10psi as you mash the throttle makes the car too hard to control - not what I want at the track.
If I drop the 'gain ' value it is more subdued early on but the boost drops off later.

Have taken to setting the overboost limit down and trying to get the controller to knock the boost down early on which allows a higher 'gain' setting and higher boost later . Less than ideal.

I'm thinking this problem relates to the weak actuator spring and my atempt at overcoming this by winding the rod right in .

Any suggestions ?

Does your BC have a start boost setting?

If you lower that then it will give you a smoother boost curve (less of a hit) as it wil allow the WG to open a small bit in lower boost.

/\ yes it does but the min boost without the boost controller is 7psi so there is no room to adjust that ....

What would work is a boost controller that increases the gain value as revs go up - is there such a beast ?

They have high end BC's that will let you do diff boost levels for each gear, RPM's etc...

But what I am saying; is if your start boost is set to 0 (always opening the wastegate) and you gain and set boost are higher for your goals; it should help it spool up a bit slower. Even though the WG spring is set for 7psi; it will still crack open lower (like 2-3) PSI.

I have a SARD Trigger unit that has it's own control pump - set zero boost and it pumps the actuator open itself.

Not installed yet, due to lack of turbo (see below)

S

They have high end BC's that will let you do diff boost levels for each gear, RPM's etc...

But what I am saying; is if your start boost is set to 0 (always opening the wastegate) and you gain and set boost are higher for your goals; it should help it spool up a bit slower. Even though the WG spring is set for 7psi; it will still crack open lower (like 2-3) PSI.


I'll try that - I've had it on 6psi and not tried to play with it because I thought it was rendered ineffective by the wg spring ......

I have a SARD Trigger unit that has it's own control pump - set zero boost and it pumps the actuator open itself.

Not installed yet, due to lack of turbo (see below)

S

yeah a turbo would be a good start - bummer

6psi is about the hardest hitting BC setting you can get for that WG and your target PSI of 10... no wonder you are having traction issues. Suprised your not getting boost spike too.

/\ i am . Last night i mashed the throttle in 3rd the wet - weeeeeee dogggy !

Yeah; I call that my "bat to the kidneys" setting.

I have one of them that way - just to mess with the V8 guys. But it is not very driveable.

Ok -that did the trick pretty much , although there is still a bit of overshoot by about 0.7 psi .

Set it at 0 - now seeing 10psi all the way through to 6500 . It then drops off pretty quickly to about 8.4 at 7000 .
Not sure if that is the turbo , the actuator spring the aux. intake valve opening , the pressure drop though the pipework or a combo of all four things .

This boost controller tuning is almost as difficult as the actual engine tuning .

Yeah; it can be tough.

That drop off is 80%+ turbo...

this is upgraded turbo - I thought it would do better than that .....

Hmm, what is the Flowmap for the upgraded turbo?

The TD06-20G; is not going to flow much more than the 18G...at least from what I can tell.

Stole this from another thread

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/misc/compress_comparo_20g_18g_3071.jpg

Yeah; keep it mind that at the top end we are breathing 40 lb/min or air or more.

See what the does to your 20G plateaus?

See what the does to your 20G plateaus?

what the .......... what ?

The rings for the 20G; AKA efficientcy islands, plateaus...

At top end (RPM*VE*DISPLACEMENT etc)- your air intake is gonna max that turbo and cause it to lose pressure.

yeah I see it now - i'm at 38 lbs/min at 6500 rpm (1.7 PR) - just off the map at that point

Yeppers - now you see the power of changing snails.

also see that my snail is 1/2 way to a 3071

And what does half-way mean HP wise.... hehehehe.

BTW - I can hold 10PSI no problem to redline...

trying to think of a smart arse answer for that :banghead:

Just call me gay.... kinda the standard put down... LOL

Just call me gay.... kinda the standard put down... LOL

so kimi is a fag hag? i find that a waste!! ;)

bret, good job on getting it installed on the right / wrong side.. ;) and right now i would take my time and learn before i jump. :)

i would get it dialed in on the track with temps and control.. as i know that is your passion..

then i bet lots of stuff will be available. just a guess.

beers :beer:

For future reference

http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=13884&stc=1

eh?234

Just thinking about the aux ports and the benefit of opening them earlier .
I see that the P2s are linked to the aux. port so they come on at same time so only way to effectively do this is through the computer .
There was a thread about this a while back but they did not come to any real conclusions. I think there was no way to do it effectively then - now there is .
If I can get them both activating earlier i think there would be the following benefits
* a bit more power earlier + eliminate the power drop at this point
*eliminate the lean spike at 6250
*Stage the P2s earlier so that the secondaries are not at 100% duty cycle in this rev range .
*Hold a higher psi for longer

Just my thoughts at this stage

Dannobre just took them all out together... all open all the time.

The idea being that lag time until we hit boost is so damn short; than any lower end power loss is easily made up by getting and keeping higher airflow in boosted situations.

But if you wanted to be a pure Mazda engineering guy; with TC - figure out the airflow that they open them stock; and then figure out when that is for your new FI-ed-ness.

PS - I am not SURE; but pretty sure that the AP will not change the availability of the injectors; so you cannot stage them earlier than stock.

Can Hymee do this?

Not sure - i'm just exploring it to see but yeah I thought about the all open all the time idea and wondered if that would be bad to have air going into the aux ports that did not have an injector working with it . :dunno:

Good question... I can't really see how it would hurt as long as your AFR's are still good - I mean it all goes to the same place shortly.

Just opened those ports using a bit of Kiwi cunning :)

Now have to re-tune cause it has changed things around a bit .One thing that was immediately obvious -my vac at idle went down a good 2"Hg . Thought i had blown my motor for a min. but when I reopened the valve the vac came back ...

HAHA - yeah mine did that too...

Ok I'm finished dicking around with my boost controller and dont like the result i'm getting . IE too much torque lower in the rev range .
Never thought i would say that - heh .
what I want to do is bring in the boost at about 7-8psi then gradually increase it to 10 psi at the top end up until the turbo runs out of puff .
My powermod has an inbuilt boost control and It looks like it may be capable of doing that , it will only output 1A though so not sure if that is sufficient - any one done something similar ?

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/boostmap.jpg

Also found I had to add fuel after opening the aux valve - implying a few extra ponies are being made .
But It does not drive as well - idle is sporadic and the flat spot at 4k is worse than before .
So I'll leave them operational until Hymee can figure out how to open them earlier

what I want to do is bring in the boost at about 7-8psi then gradually increase it to 10 psi at the top end up until the turbo runs out of puff .

So, you want it to do 8 PSI until 6k, then suddenly 10 PSI at 6.2k and then watch it fall off to 6 PSI again at 6.5k? lol
'Cause, that is what you are gonna get, give or take a few hundred RPM.

Also found I had to add fuel after opening the aux valve - implying a few extra ponies are being made .
But It does not drive as well - idle is sporadic and the flat spot at 4k is worse than before .
So I'll leave them operational until Hymee can figure out how to open them earlier

I love watching people re-invent the wheel.

So, you want it to do 8 PSI until 6k, then suddenly 10 PSI at 6.2k and then watch it fall off to 6 PSI again at 6.5k? lol
'Cause, that is what you are gonna get, give or take a few hundred RPM.
.

All I really want is a driver friendly track car - not something that will spin me off at the slightest push on the pedal .
BTW it can hold 10psi to 6500 dropping to 8psi by 7300 which is about where i'll set my shift beeper .
Maybe a supercharger would have been better ;)


I love watching people re-invent the wheel.

might be common knowledge but not all of us have read the entire forum ....

Well, mine doesn't "spin me off" ever, so I'm sure you can adjust things to suit.
One thing I've don't with the AccessPORT is adjust the throttle sensitivity in each gear to help judge the transition points in and out of boost.

After a major day of dicking around trying to get the Powermod boost controller to work I finally got it sorted (after getting some help from the guy who designed the Powermod) .
And .....
it does exactly what I wanted it to .
7-8 psi up to 5000 - 10psi from 5000 to 7500 !!!!

That is NOT a misprint 10psi at 7500 and 350 g/s MAF - HOLY S**T !!!!

The car is way more drivable now as it does not want to break loose in 2nd all the time but still has all the power in the range I wanted it .

I backed off the boost at 6500 onwards because of worries about IATs and a hesitation at 6500 due to aux. ports opening .
With that sorted I think it might be time to go back to the dyno and see if I can break 300 hp .

.

Any idea what your IAT and EGT are?

I wish I did - don't want to use those settings again till i know what is happening up top in the rev range ...

you make it look easy to pull more power out of the motor!

what i did at the track on Friday

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/seal.jpg

^^^^^^

wow,

i winced at that photo! wtf, was it a good or bad day. i hope the seal was a gt car!;)

beers :beer:

WTF is a baby seal doing on the race track?? LOL

my seals - i bludgeoned them to death and now my Renesis she no go :(

Holy crap - really? The first week out?

Damn man...that is harsh luck......mazmart rebuild.....or a DIY? Or find a wreck?

On the bright side - this guy tried to pass me and look what happened to him . Kinda puts things into perspective for me ...


http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/commodore.jpg

wow,

i so did not read it that way..

as you know let me know if you need anything shipped! :) front or rear rotor?

beers :beer:

On the bright side - this guy tried to pass me and look what happened to him . Kinda puts things into perspective for me ...


http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/commodore.jpg

yep,

you won. btw it was cause he removed the cats..

beers :beer:

thanks for the offer . I'm going to see if I can get a second hand motor before I do anything else ...

Do you know what blew it? Tune, Heat etc?

Yep .

Had a misfire at about 7000 rpm - and tried to tune and race at the same time . Not a good idea


I think there are a few possibilities - I know it has to do with my upping the boost at 6500-7000 to about 8psi . I had tested it the night before and it was all good but once I got onto the track it reared it's ugly head . The car was running perfectly at 7psi but I just had to try fix it at the track didn't I .


My theories
Lean spike caused by I dont know what - had scanalyser running and could see it .
Air too hot
Mazsport coils not hacking the pace at that psi

Dont really know but What I do know is that it can be set up to run great so long as I dont raise the boost above 7psi in that range

I wonder if the dwell changes on those coils f*cked you?

well - didn't make any changes to dwell but yeah - I still dont know for sure what the story is there

the run that killed it was the last session - I opened up the aux ports for that run so it was not that causing the lean spike ....

were you data logging? i would love to see it if you were. and i am sorry for your loss.. :(

beers :beer:

sorry to hear of the dead seals :(

I'm contemplating my first rebuild, but hopefully it's premature and not needed in my case.

how does the motor idle and rev with bad seals?

The first few sessions I was data logging and the lean spike from the Aux ports was causing a spike and a misfire - bad in 2nd gear but ok in the other gears . 2nd was running way leaner (but still around 12) than the higher gears so I'm sure that was why .
The last session I opened up the aux ports to get rid of the spike but found another spike a little higher in the rev range - that is what killed it i think because it wouldn't start after that session . Drove it home and it all seemed good - until i tried to start it again .....
It will actually run if i push start it and it still hauls ass - just cant restart it if i stop

sorry to hear of the dead seals :(

I'm contemplating my first rebuild, but hopefully it's premature and not needed in my case.

how does the motor idle and rev with bad seals?

probably one seal only that is blown - vacuum is down to 14-15"Hg , idle is crap , and it makes a really strange noise kinda like the one descibed in my sig .... how ironic . heh

Doesn't sound like a blown apex seal. Sounds like a bad corner or side seal.
Sucks.

Imagine the sense of "waiting for the other shoe" one has while tracking at 14 PSI.
Tune before you track.

/\ i did - only it seems like at the track everything changes .

/\ i did - only it seems like at the track everything changes .

Hmm. That's bad.
I don't have that issue. I wonder what is changing.

my tuning was at night - a lot cooler . I was running into a misfire problem then as well so I turned down the boost till it came right . At the track It was maybe 10degC warmer and I don't think i had tested wot runs in 2nd gear which was where the biggest issues were .

Hmm. No work on the temp correction factors?

No .
I think i just don't know enough to tune at higher psi . The thing was running great until i found a way to raise the boost after 6500 . That was what put me out of my depth ....

h20 temps stable?? but i agree that the opening of the port at 6200 changed all the rules.

and i really will not comment on tuning as i understand the concepts, but that is all...

and brett i have stuff if you need it.. ;)

beers :beer:

Have you pulled the plugs and listened to the compression cycle?

no - I've stayed away from the car since i realised what i did :(

i'll check that tommorrow

h20 temps stable??

and brett i have stuff if you need it.. ;)

beers :beer:

that was one positive from the day - water temps never went over 99C . That 2nd Rad really does work .....

Not sure what stuff i need yet - i need to focus on other stuff for a while like making the money to fix it for example :)

no - I've stayed away from the car since i realised what i did :(

Get in there and do it!

I always feel better if I dive right into the forensics after I break something.

That 2nd Rad really does work .....

:)

OK - front rotor is good
rear rotor - one good compression two weak

Motor is toast

Damn man; sucks to hear...

At least you can build one real nice now - you know how Ray is always complaining about factory seal tolerances.

Damn Brett, that sucks. Wonder if your IATs were just too hot? Your compression issue sounds like an Apex seal. Hopefully it didn't damage the housing and you can save those.

oh shit Brett, that really sucks! Sorry to hear about the busted engine, hope you can get it fixed soon.

thanks for the encouragment guys

maybe we should combine our motor together lol it should work

my front housing with your front housing = one good engine.

that really sucks how you f***ed your seal ay. it was gr8 when you drove me on private road.

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/seal.jpg

that pic is allsome

maybe we should combine our motor together lol it should work lol

my front housing with your front housing = one good engine.

that really sucks ay. it was gr8 when you drove me on private road.




ok,

sounds kinda dirty!:Eyecrazy:

hey, but what do i know? :)

beers :beer:

Sorry to hear, Brett.
Been there, done that.
Jump in with both feet - it gets easier and better each time you push it just a little too far.

Sorry for the loss. I know you worked hard at it to get it going. Sad when something like this happens.

Here is a log from my track day showing wot through 3rd and fourth - just for you Swoope :)

Only concerned with AFR under 100% throttle here
maximum MAF in 3rd was 310g/s @ 7200 rpm
Maximum exhaust temp 970 deg C
You can clearly see the spike from the AUX valve opening - circled

* Note how the spike changes position in the higher gear
*Also how the AFR gets richer in the higher gear
*In 2nd the afrs were even leaner

So The problems i was having as i remember it :
*I could feel a stumble in third gear as we went through the ports opening - not at all in higher gears
* In 2nd gear It was really bad
*When i opened the ports and went back to 7psi for one session all the problems dissappeared
*Next session after that I upped the boost again (ports still open) and that is the one that killed my motor .
* So the ports were open and i was still getting bad misfires in 2nd above about 6800


My conclusion about what killed it:

I think in 2nd gear (and 3rd to a lesser extent) I was running too lean for elevated boost levels . So I need to tune for around 11.5-12 afr in 2nd and the higher gears will take care of themselves .

so what are you going to do fix the car ? or go for gold and buy 20b.

well at least if you get a new motor i can polish it

While down at the dealers to see about a rebuild I managed to wangle a drive in a 2009 .
My impression - soooooooooo slow I could hardly believe it . I'm positive even my NA would have creamed it . Handling felt more precise but than my 03 but overall the car felt more like a luxury car than a sports car .

lol they look nice. so what happened to the about the rebuild ? how much did they say it will cost to get it rebuild ?

Brett -

What does your leading/trailing ignition advance look like in the range where the hesitation was and the range where you suspect the breakage occurred?

(The actual numbers.)

6800 -7300rpm
8.0 - 8.5 psi
960-970 C exhaust
AFR - could be over 12
15 - 17 degrees advance - hard to pinpoint the exact number but it will be in that range . Split was around 14 degrees but not sure as I dont have that map to look at .

Here is the full map . Numbers on the far right are the base map numbers . Numers in the square are the modification to the base map .
so for 7000 and 7.4 psi we have 20-3= 17 degrees
green square is the one I think i was in - or half way to the next square on the right .
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/timingmap10psi.jpg

your exhaust temps are very hot. are they measured with a thermocouple or from some other source?
the consensus on ausrotary.com is in the 800deg c range is the zone for reliability measured at the ports pre-turbo. if you only have one probe measuring both rotors then you can have an averaging effect and one could be 800 the other 1100 and you get 970.

980°C is hot, but not unusual for a rotary.
Its not unusual for a high-output street rotary to see pre-turbo EGTs as high as 1100°C!
I wouldn't expect a motor to live very long if you sustained those sort of EGTs for any duration beyond a couple of seconds.
Cruise EGTs on a bone-stock RX-8 can be as high as 820°C.
I regularly hit 980°, but that is at 14 PSI, not 6.
That said, your ignition timing is pretty retarded.
Especially above 6500.

What i did today :(
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/schrapnel.jpg

Ready to go to rebuilders
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/motor.jpg

Spagghetti junction
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/spaggetti.jpg

hope you know where all those parts, nuts, and bolts go ;)

Well - i know the thing on the chain goes in here somewhere :scratchhe

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s255/brettus_rx8/empty.jpg

wholly shit your apv ports are soooooo clean.. how many miles / km on that motor????

btw, im back did you miss me? :)

beers :beer:

I been awhol as well but - yeah of course we missed you :)

105000 km on the engine (65000 miles) - yeah they look pretty good . Maybe it's all the trackwork they get :dunno:

Swoope - do you have any spare yellow injectors going cheap . wondering about upgrading the primaries....

Swoope - do you have any spare yellow injectors going cheap . wondering about upgrading the primaries....

if yellows are on a six port i have them. and really did you clean the avps up for that photo?? as mine looked like ass after 55k miles...

beers :beer:

That's about what mine looked like.....bit of carbon on the ends...and a bit of oilly stuff on the barrels that wiped right off.......about the same mileage too...and lots of track time

The old " redline a day" thing seems to hold out for carbon. Problem seems to be in the seals though ;)

no clean up - straight out of motor .H ave been running Moreys FI cleaner for the last 6 or 7 tanks .....

no clean up - straight out of motor .H ave been running Moreys FI cleaner for the last 6 or 7 tanks .....


ahhhhh,

that helps, but damn my hi way life!

i dont have photos on this computer. but if you do a search from years gone by. mine were ugly!!! at ~ 55k miles..

beers :beer:

brett: good to see the engine out, going to a good rotary rebuilder?

/\ hope so - only just found out about him . He is a rally driver and has built a number of engines but not a renesis yet ....

Sorry to hear about this.

Are you going to use the mazsport coils with the rebuilt engine?

Personally, I'd have recommended going back to the oem coils, and keeping boost to 9 psi for that kit. It's just not efficient enough to work well above that. High IAT spells trouble.

12 AFR wouldn't necessarily mean blown engine.

/\ well I'm not blaming the coils at this stage but yeah - that is another uncertainty ......


I would like to figure out what psi will give me the lowest IATs at 7000-7500 but the flow map cant really tell me that because i'm off it no matter what pressure i run

Regardless of blame, what do you plan to do differently once the engine is rebuilt?

good question
here is what i was thinking so far
*run 9-10 psi up til about 6200 then let it drop off to about 7psi from there on . I know that can work .
*Look into getting something to measure IATs
*Fit larger primary or secondary injectors and run a lot richer higher in the rev range
*Advance the ignition 3-4 degrees and montor EGTs
*make sure i dont push the car when it develops a misfire

you forgot:

* throw mazsport coils in the trash

good question
here is what i was thinking so far
*run 9-10 psi up til about 6200 then let it drop off to about 7psi from there on . I know that can work .

everything I've read says it's the peak torque that you have to worry about detonation the most, the low and upper rpms are fine. Which is why Jeff's maps go rich in the 5.5k range, and leaner above and below that point.

So what you're doing is keeping the boost up till you're out of the danger zone then decreasing the pressure... doesn't sound like it's going to do what you think it will.



*Advance the ignition 3-4 degrees and montor EGTs

I installed the xgauge code for cat temp in my scangauge2, and it rocks :)

Lets see.....Bosch coils and Microtech ignition module = crap :lol: right ;)

Mazsport bashing is one thing...but come on........

you forgot:

* throw mazsport coils in the trash

I agree, if for no other reason than you have one less possible problem to worry about in the mix.

everything I've read says it's the peak torque that you have to worry about detonation the most, the low and upper rpms are fine. Which is why Jeff's maps go rich in the 5.5k range, and leaner above and below that point.

So what you're doing is keeping the boost up till you're out of the danger zone then decreasing the pressure... doesn't sound like it's going to do what you think it will.


Only because I have run it like that before and it ran sweet . Where i was having misfire issue was
1/at aux valve opening when running higher boost - this kinda points to the leaning off causing the misfire
2/Above about 6800 when at higher boost

Everything below this in the rev range was fine even when I ran 11 psi one time

Not bashing but at this stage in the game, it doesn't make sense to reinstall the Mazsport coils.
- dwell settings have been questionable for certain FI applications
AND
most importantly, what if a coil goes bad, ignitor freaks out? How is he going to replace that? Might as well install something where replacement parts / support is more readily available.