I wanted to put all of this in one place for reference.

PRIMARY INJECTORS
RED 290cc

6-PORT SECONDARY INJECTORS & PRIMARY 2 INJECTORS
YELLOW 380cc

4-PORT SECONDARY INJECTORS
BLUE 480cc

Injectors are Bosh disc-type, high impedance (13 ohm) with a Denso connector.

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/misc/inj5.jpg

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/misc/inj.jpg

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/misc/inj2.jpg

just outta curiousity why does the 4 port hav bigger injectors?

same size engine. two less ports..

beers :beer:

didn't you mean to say two less injectors swoope ?

didn't you mean to say two less injectors swoope ?

not really..

same answer in the long run.. ;)

less ports = less injectors..

beers :beer:

6-port = 6 injectors (2100cc total)
4-port = 4 injectors (1540cc total)

sorry.

forgot to mention.

less ports, less rpm..

beers :beer:

but the point is tech info.

this should be a sticky.. !! o wait it is!

beers :beer:

What type of connectors do the OEM injectors have?

icic i figured that but didnt know for sure
thanks

So I have a new engine in my car thanks to some water that hyrdolocked my old one... dont ask. Anyway, the fuel trim is off according to the mechanics. Well I asked someone at Mazsport, they said maybe the injectors were backwards. Any ideas? Im kind of confused seeing as it's two and four not three and three or something like that...

Try looking at the first post of the thread.
If that doesn't answer your question, nothing will.

BTW - you can't "hydrolock" a rotary motor.

I can verify that. Flood waters couldn't do it!

Well then the techs at Mazda are idiots. They tried to turn it with a breaker bar and it didn't turn, with the spark plugs removed. Any ideas?

yup i agree mazda techs are idiots. i wont be taking my car there unless absolutley necessary

Well then the techs at Mazda are idiots. They tried to turn it with a breaker bar and it didn't turn, with the spark plugs removed. Any ideas?

yea,

take it out of gear and take off the e brake...

beers :beer:

If it were "hydrolocked", pulling the plugs would "un-hydrolock" it.
What led to the motor being in this condition?

carbon lock?
OD

carbon lock?
OD

Possibly. Though, you seldom hear of a car stopping in its tracks from carbon lock.

Well lets see. Here in Iowa, about a month back, we had a lot of rain coming down. Well one night my car and I went through this puddle of water. The AEM CAI decided that it would suck up the water instead of air, causing it to stall. Pushed it out of said puddle and let tried it. Nothing. Left it alone for a day to dry out and tried to turn it over. Nothing. Towed it to the only Mazda dealership in town, thinking they should know what they are doing. They said they took the plugs out and tried to turn the engine with a breaker bar and still couldn't get it to budge. So they replaced it. Then after I had it for a few days, the CEL comes on. I take it back, they say ignition coils. They pop new ones in and find that the fuel trim is off. Excessive as they say. A week later and I'm still car-less. Worse yet, they gave me a damn minivan. So please help in anyway possible. I asked a tech at Mazsport, they said maybe they got the injectors backwards, primary and secondary. From what I read, it might have been the MAF or O2 sensor. According to the techs though, they said they can test the MAF and found it to be OK. Now they want to replace my AEM CAI with the stock airbox. No thanks. Any ideas on how to keep my CAI and fix this fuel trim issue? Take it to a tuning place and reflash the ECU? I have no freaking idea...

el oh el.......... I just saw this,

They said they took the plugs out and tried to turn the engine with a breaker bar and still couldn't get it to budge.

Strike one.


So they replaced it.

Awfully nice of them. I presume this was under warranty?


Then after I had it for a few days, the CEL comes on. I take it back, they say ignition coils. They pop new ones in and find that the fuel trim is off. Excessive as they say.

Strike two.


According to the techs though, they said they can test the MAF and found it to be OK.

He winds up for the pitch....


Now they want to replace my AEM CAI with the stock airbox.

Strike three!

They left your snorkel in the car, but gave you a free engine?
How, exactly, did they "test" the MAF?
What code did you throw?

Hey guys, I would like to announce that I am running my car with mazsport injectors with a stock ecu

I want to know whether it would damage the engine in anyway?

this is only temporary until i finish my turbo install ofcourse..

It'll run like crap with no engine management.

it does run like crap Jeff!!!, but I'll be out there to AZ mid august when Ray moves there so you guys can do your Uber magic on my car :D

however, I will be running there with *gasp* base tune

however, will it hurt my car though? in the long run I mean

It will probalby flood it if you don't use some sort of engine management.

wrong tune, w/turbo...yea that will hurt the car in the long run. Unless your plan was an engine swap....then it will just speed that plan along.

Does anybody know where I can find high flow after market injectors for the rx8 for primary and secondary i was thinking about greddy or this other company i cant find teh name for right now, but i want reliable injectors and i was curious to see if i need to put in new rotors inside the engine, Im trying to get over 400whp out of my car naturally aspirated without having to turbo or supercharge my car. I've seen it done before and i'd rather do that first before i decide to twin turbo it and do a complete over haul. If anybody does find something, please let me know. Thanks

Im trying to get over 400whp out of my car naturally aspirated without having to turbo or supercharge my car. I've seen it done before and i'd rather do that first before i decide to twin turbo it and do a complete over haul. If anybody does find something, please let me know. Thanks

It's my understanding that the basic laws of thermodynamics prevent this. The Renesis comes pretty wound out from the factory. Unless you're going FI, there is no way to get 400HP out of it; but I'd be delighted to be proven wrong with a link to these people who have gotten 400 HP NA.

Good luck with that.

Does anybody know where I can find high flow after market injectors for the rx8 for primary and secondary i was thinking about greddy or this other company i cant find teh name for right now, but i want reliable injectors and i was curious to see if i need to put in new rotors inside the engine, Im trying to get over 400whp out of my car naturally aspirated without having to turbo or supercharge my car. I've seen it done before and i'd rather do that first before i decide to twin turbo it and do a complete over haul. If anybody does find something, please let me know. Thanks

:yelrotflm

I wanna see where you had seen it done! Hell, pass it along...I think our race cars could benefit! Oh wait, I have seen this done too, cept I think the 8 had an LS1 swap...yeah that's it.

my bad it was a 20b NA with a few mods to get that, i feel like an idiot but hey id still like to try to get as much as possible. Why can't you attain 400whp in the renesis? i know these engines run better NA than forced induction cuz the seals dont bust, but theres gotta be a way to get more than that, and i dont want to swap an ls1 in it haha, i think sport compact car or tuner mag had a article a while back with an 1993-1996 model year RX7 with a small block in it which i thought was cool but also stupid cuz ur taking the fun away from the rotary. Also id like to find out waht an expected horsepower out put might be out of my car with the following...

greddy e-manage ultimate
high flow injectors
pully kit
intake
exhaust
high flow cat
light weight fly wheel
(i put in a clutchmasters fx100 cuz i didnt want to kill the stock feel)
I was figuring around 290-320whp
I am autocrossing this car and i put in 33mm front sway bars and i think 21mm in the rear from hotchkiss racing (they come with three settings, I only use the middle cuz thats all you need)

If i am way off base let me know, or if its attainable w/out forced induction i'd really like to know. Also i noticed the nissans VQ35 motors have dual intakes that you can get aftermarket, could you apply that to the rx8? as in split it so its ram air from the nose and cold air near the bottom, and would it be worth it? I'd like to use the stock motor and try to get as much as possible out of it before i swap for a 20b or even a R26b (4 rotor) the latter i dont think its street legal and runs for about $4000 from mazda.

ha.....ha

my bad it was a 20b NA with a few mods to get that, i feel like an idiot but hey id still like to try to get as much as possible. Why can't you attain 400whp in the renesis? i know these engines run better NA than forced induction cuz the seals dont bust, but theres gotta be a way to get more than that, and i dont want to swap an ls1 in it haha, i think sport compact car or tuner mag had a article a while back with an 1993-1996 model year RX7 with a small block in it which i thought was cool but also stupid cuz ur taking the fun away from the rotary. Also id like to find out waht an expected horsepower out put might be out of my car with the following...

greddy e-manage ultimate
high flow injectors
pully kit
intake
exhaust
high flow cat
light weight fly wheel
(i put in a clutchmasters fx100 cuz i didnt want to kill the stock feel)
I was figuring around 290-320whp
I am autocrossing this car and i put in 33mm front sway bars and i think 21mm in the rear from hotchkiss racing (they come with three settings, I only use the middle cuz thats all you need)

If i am way off base let me know, or if its attainable w/out forced induction i'd really like to know. Also i noticed the nissans VQ35 motors have dual intakes that you can get aftermarket, could you apply that to the rx8? as in split it so its ram air from the nose and cold air near the bottom, and would it be worth it? I'd like to use the stock motor and try to get as much as possible out of it before i swap for a 20b or even a R26b (4 rotor) the latter i dont think its street legal and runs for about $4000 from mazda.

about the same as running a high flow cat, good coils.


now to you idea of a 20b or a 26b. you dont have a clue as to what you are talking about. in all areas..

sorry that is harsh, but that is the truth..

good luck, prove me wrong..

beers :beer:

Also id like to find out waht an expected horsepower out put might be out of my car with the following...

Anywhere from 185 to 205, depending on the condition of the motor.

I'd like to use the stock motor and try to get as much as possible out of it before i swap for a 20b or even a R26b (4 rotor) the latter i dont think its street legal and runs for about $4000 from mazda.

:lol: :eyetwitch

Wow, great info. Helps me out bigtime.... The diagram by MM that is

Fitting greddy turbo soon . I've read some notes on MM's site about injectors and realised that the way the injectors are staged means that I'll probably run lean when my turbo spools up around 3500 .
This is because my fuel management system cant do anything with the staging , it just adds fuel based on what the ecu does NA .
I'm thinking i should put some 480cc injectors in the secondary position to prevent this problem .
would this be the way to go ?

I've seen some folks mention 4 pink injectors on the 4-port cars. Is there a chance that injectors have changed throughout the years? I ask because I'm trying to collect some injector info, and looking into rebuilding them on the side.

Can anyone tell me the Bosch or Denso PN molded into the side of the injectors? Of the three established injectors I've seen (4-port blue, 6-port primary red, 6-port secondary yellow) I'm curious if the Part Numbers have stayed consistent. If anyone has some lying around, please have a look and see if you can tell me the year, color, and PN. Thanks guys.

anyone know the dead time on the injectors?
OD

Yes. However, It varies with voltage, latent heat, fuel pressure, atmospheric pressure and duty cycle.

God!
What range of dead time is there?
OD

The reds are nominally .76ms. The yellows are .69ms. The blues are .74ms.
This is all at SPT and 12v.
At 14v, the latencies go down to .60ms, .54ms and .61ms, respectively.
During cranking, the latencies can double and vary about 10% either way over the full range of fuel pressures.
When operated at high duty cycles, the latencies can increase by as much as 20%.

jeff you have the info on the 09s to put here? i can go get it saturday but if you already have it in postable form?

I only have what I know. I don't have diagrams yet.
When I have it in paper, I'll put it up.

Because of how things have gone on this forum for so long, I refuse to discuss things that I don't have printed matter to work from, nor will I be able to provide data that runs contrary to my personal interests.
Too may vultures.

cool i might have paper saturday

Does any of this help, from my 2009 US WS Manual.

Or if you want me to look up anything else/scan let me know.

yes it means i dont have to do the scanning. not everything im looking for but a start:)

yes it means i dont have to do the scanning. not everything im looking for but a start:)

Let me know Charlie what you want in a PM, happy to help...and No I won't scan the complete double sided 7 inch book! :eyetwitch

thanks MM
OD

I wanted to put all of this in one place for reference.


Anyone got a picture of the injector wiring?
The diagram with the rear secondary and front P2 the same color wire has got me pissed off.

I have also been told the secondaries come from the wiring harness by themselves.


I guess I am just old school and can't see the difference between black with blue wire and black with blue wire......
:banghead:
A picture really is worth a thousands words here.
The ECU wiring does not match a 2007, I was going to cleverly use my LAN pinger to prove which wire goes where......

At least I did take a picture of the primaries.....:banghead:
Of course I didn't touch those.....

Anyone got a picture of the injector wiring?
The diagram with the rear secondary and front P2 the same color wire has got me pissed off.

I have also been told the secondaries come from the wiring harness by themselves.


I guess I am just old school and can't see the difference between black with blue wire and black with blue wire......
:banghead:
A picture really is worth a thousands words here.
The ECU wiring does not match a 2007, I was going to cleverly use my LAN pinger to prove which wire goes where......

At least I did take a picture of the primaries.....:banghead:
Of course I didn't touch those.....


if you look at this pic close, notice that the Front P1 and Rear P1 are wired side by side. As well secondaries and P2's.. if you trace the black/blue wire back to the connector, you should be able to determine which is which :)

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/misc/inj.jpg

if you look at this pic close, notice that the Front P1 and Rear P1 are wired side by side. As well secondaries and P2's.. if you trace the black/blue wire back to the connector, you should be able to determine which is which :)


I like that idea.
:)

Number one tip, take digital pictures and mark the leads before removal.
:lol:
I hope this is correct, please feel free to correct any errors....
:banghead:


Fuel Rail 1 (two injectors)
Both leads for this fuel rail come off of the main harness together.
Front rotor injector wire color is light-green and red. (Front Primary 1)
Front injector Wire lead has White colored tape

Rear rotor injector wire color is light-green and black. (Rear Primary 1)
Rear injector Wire lead has Tan colored tape.

Fuel Rail 2 (four injectors)
The two center (the middle) injector wires come off the harness together and split.
Front side of the middle split has Yellow colored tape.
Rear side of the middle split has Green colored tape.
The two end (front and rear) injector wires come off the harness separately and have no colored tape.

The front injector wire is Green and Red. (Front Secondary)
The front rotor middle injector wire is Black and Blue. (Front Primary 2)
The rear rotor middle injector wire is White and Green. (Rear Primary 2)
The rear injector wire is Black and Blue. (Rear Secondary)


:uhh:

OK.
I'm having difficulty in understanding what you are trying to clarify.
You just spelled out, in somewhat lengthy prose, exactly what is shown in the diagram I posted at the beginning of the thread.
Just follow the diagram. Its all shown for you there in intimate detail.

OK.
I'm having difficulty in understanding what you are trying to clarify.
You just spelled out, in somewhat lengthy prose, exactly what is shown in the diagram I posted at the beginning of the thread.
Just follow the diagram. Its all shown for you there in intimate detail.

I added the tape colors....
:lol:
I also wanted to add way the wiring pairs split from the harness.
Seriously, what really confused me was that a 4 port also has secondaries, but the 6 port calls those positions P-2, so in some places, the manual seems to call the 6 port P-2 spot "Secondaries".
(Which would make my 4 injector rail colors wrong if the secondaries were supposed to be in the middle)

I am very glad to know the color order is correct, and thank you for posting the original.
:)

Sorry if this is a noob question, what is a safe cc # for N/A RX8 to upgrade primary & secondary injectors using the stock ECU.

Sorry if this is a noob question, what is a safe cc # for N/A RX8 to upgrade primary & secondary injectors using the stock ECU.


Absolutely no reason to do this.......

There is more than enough fuel for any NA application with the stock injectors

Absolutely no reason to do this.......

There is more than enough fuel for any NA application with the stock injectors

Thanks for the clarification, reason I asked is when I changed my plugs and spark plug wires this Pepboy Seller said I can upgrade my injectors for better performance for $25 and keep my OEM ECU, I knew at first he didn't knew what he's talking about cause he tried to sell me Synthetic oil and that's a NO BUY.. jeje

Wow...those are cheap injectors :)

The ECU could likely handle +/- about 15% and still give you enough trim left to work

Hi

On the injector issue

i am porting a bit etc on my 8 with rebuild,

you guys say injectors is big enough,

but my question is if anyone knows if there is a maximum (not thinking of 100% duty cycle) but a maximum in the program on ecu to say no more fuel, like a limit or will it still first look at the sensors to first

I am just worried i start to run lean if it so happens the ecu has a upper limit

anyone know?

thanks

Jeff.... AKA MazdaManiac could help here...

Considering the stock tune is 10-15% rich at higher flow rates anyway ( CAT cooling) ...the porting if it improves flow at higher rates will likely be no problem (even without a tune)

okkkk

Is there a chart anywhere for what size injectors to upgrade to while running a turbo?? I am going be getting my turbo upgraded by BNR and they said it should be able to handle 360whp. I only wanna run about 325-330whp. Is there a chart or anything that explains which injectors I should change out and to what size? Im still learning the fuel system on this car. Thanks!! By the way, this thread is the product of a search!

Is there a chart anywhere for what size injectors to upgrade to while running a turbo?? I am going be getting my turbo upgraded by BNR and they said it should be able to handle 360whp. I only wanna run about 325-330whp. Is there a chart or anything that explains which injectors I should change out and to what size? Im still learning the fuel system on this car. Thanks!! By the way, this thread is the product of a search!


I have 650cc High Impedance injectors I was about to release...

Two options Plug and Play and ones that you solder...

Shoot me a PM I will have these ready for everyone to buy Monday

Another drive-by advertisement that fails to answer the question............

My apologies for not elaborating more, Monday I will provide a breakdown for you.

You 2 are funny ;) You both should be in the "special" Olympics for sniping :)

:) I won't even try bowling...it would just be further conformation for me .......:lol:

Just a few helpful links since I had a moment........

http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

http://www.bgsoflex.com/pwcomp.html

http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php4

Hey MazdaManiac!

Since this is a thread with injector information, could you also post what size fuel injectors that Mazsport used to sell with their Fuel injector kit upgrade? The reason I am asking is because I currently run the Interceptor-X and I want to switch to the Cobb Access port with a tune done by you. I know that I need to know my injector sizes in order to get a base map, so I need this information or a way to find out this information.

on my invoice, the part number was Injector-Kit-RX8 and they were selling them for around $560.

has anyone just removed the pintle caps to increase flow?
olddragger

has anyone just removed the pintle caps to increase flow?
olddragger
http://kgparts.com/index.php?page=rx8modinject

I have these which is basically what you are asking

what was the flow rate off the ones you did ?
olddragger

here is the flow sheet they provided

whoa!
OD

Hey MazdaManiac!

Since this is a thread with injector information, could you also post what size fuel injectors that Mazsport used to sell with their Fuel injector kit upgrade? The reason I am asking is because I currently run the Interceptor-X and I want to switch to the Cobb Access port with a tune done by you. I know that I need to know my injector sizes in order to get a base map, so I need this information or a way to find out this information.

on my invoice, the part number was Injector-Kit-RX8 and they were selling them for around $560.

Uh, I am not jeef, but I have the injectors that Scott sold. He sold 650cc/min Sieman Dekas (High impedance) and 780cc/min Densos (IIRC) that were low impedance. While it has not yet been proved by a failure and I ran the 780s for several weeks, you should not run low impedance injectors on the stock pcm as it likely does not have drivers to run low impedance injectors (the int-x does.) Again, while I dont know of any failures, running low impedance injectors on Honduhs has fried boards in the past.

If you followed Scott's suggestion on where to put the injectors, you may want to consider switching the larger injectors to bank two. (As you will be pulling the 780s.) You can get 650s from Fluid Motorsports. Make sure they are machined correctly. (The ones you got from scott had machined collars. )

hey the diagram and pics on first page are not showing up

anybody have the color coded diagram up.. Can you please post the one MM posted is not showing. I believe I have found my everlasting problem here. It looks as if when I installed my injectors I wired the 2 middle P2 injectors wrong. To my front p1 injector I have green/white & blue/white wire connected to it and my rear p2 injector the black/blue & blue/white wire are connected to it. This is incorrect isn't it?

I have a thread where an owner gave me the proper colors. I will see if I can find it.

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=173129&highlight=injector

if I want to change some injectors... do I have to change all the 6? or try strating by the red ones and pluging the red one instead of the yellow ones...etc...

Unless you are boosted, you dont need larger injectors.

if I want to change some injectors... do I have to change all the 6? or try strating by the red ones and pluging the red one instead of the yellow ones...etc...
The factory ECU has the Injectors grouped. You set the CC/min and dead times for the primaries as one group and for the secondary and aux injectors as another. So as long as you change the primaries as a pair and the secondary and aux as a group you are fine.

Unless you are boosted, you dont need larger injectors.

I have a supercharger ;)
I have 330whp ! but still not anought !

I have a supercharger ;)
I have 330whp ! but still not anought !

I take that is the Pettit stage II?

I have two 780cc/min low-impedance injectors if you want them. I ran them for a month with absolutely no issues but decided to go with 4 650cc/min across the second fuel rail instead of two 650s and two 780s.

I will say that the stock pcm is made to run high-impedance injectors. You would have to risk running the low-impedance injectors like I did or find something to drive them. The risk is that you might over heat the pcm. I think that risk is slight if you only run 2 out of the 6 as low, but that is only based on my experience with having no issues. If you are using a microtech unit (an int-x) to control your fuel, you will have no problem as it contains low-impedance drivers.

Low impedance injectors will, under most circumstances, destroy the PCM in fairly short order.
You were lucky, Carbon.

Usually, you get between 15 minutes and 5 or 6 days before the injector drivers melt.

Yeah. I agree. Plenty of examples of honduhs and others toasting computers; however, not a single example on an RX8 (that I am aware). I am wondering if I wasnt lucky, but that the total resistance was enough to protect the pcm.

Then again, the fact that I made it close to a month with the low impedance injectors may be only a reflection that these injectors were rarely used (in sec position iirc.)

Then again again, the second that I understood that I was running low-impedance injectors on a stock pcm I parked the car. I even pushed it into the garage.

I will admit that I want to get rid of these injectors.

I also have four yellows I dont need!

thanks carbone :D but i'll buy some new ones...
I read on an other thread that if I take large injectors, I have to reflash the PCM.
no big deal!
but will the OEM fuel rail accept that difference ? as the fuel pressure regulator ?

SO if I understannd right, the first injectors that can be changed are the P2...
I'll look for SARD injectors!

however, not a single example on an RX8 (that I am aware).

Unfortunately, I am aware of several people that ran the Int-X with low impedance injectors, sold the Int-X and promptly fried their injector drivers.

Just some infor about SII that is in this (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=163688) thread

I haven't found any specific CC size on these yet. Did get part numbers for the primary and Secondary injectors.

Primary N3R213250
Secondary N3R113250

looks like injectors are 450s and 570s for a total of 2040 vs previous old total of 2100. these injectors are supposed to be a much better spray etc

Unfortunately, I am aware of several people that ran the Int-X with low impedance injectors, sold the Int-X and promptly fried their injector drivers.

Then I am incredibly lucky. :scared:

where cdan I buy some blue injectors ?

/\ used from a wrecker or new from mazda ...

I just order 4 of the SII Secondarys

hey guys...i having a lil prob wit my 8. today me n my boys went to play some football, we got to the park without any prob. i started it no prob here also, but after driving for a while i notice it was starting to lose power as i step on da gas n cuts off. could this be to a bad fuel injector?

/\ probably not


Moving on , I'm thinking of trying the following injector combo , any thoughts ?

P1 380 Secondary 480 P2 380

reasoning : increasing P1s will suffice for low rpm boost and having more fuel to the secondaries will even out the amount of fuel per intake tract to some extent .

hey guys...i having a lil prob wit my 8. today me n my boys went to play some football, we got to the park without any prob. i started it no prob here also, but after driving for a while i notice it was starting to lose power as i step on da gas n cuts off. could this be to a bad fuel injector?

fuel pump ?
no more fuel :naughty: :lol:

I can't help but wonder how many people erroneously changed their injectors because they relied on some unverified published numbers rather than taking a set of unmodified OE injectors and actually having them cleaned & flow tested for an accurate baseline reference point?

I can't help but wonder how many people erroneously changed their injectors because they relied on some unverified published numbers rather than taking a set of unmodified OE injectors and actually having them cleaned & flow tested for an accurate baseline reference point?

Probably not many, since the desired flows when changing injectors are WAY beyond the maximum variation of the OE units.
I doubt anyone thought "Gee, my stockers are 293cc and I really want 314cc in that position, so lets swap them!".
Most people are going for double the OE flow or more.

assuming the actual numbers correlate to what's printed and the actual fuel pressure of the system

there;s not that many people running all that high of boost pressure from what I've seen

assuming the actual numbers correlate to what's printed and the actual fuel pressure of the system

there;s not that many people running all that high of boost pressure from what I've seen

No. That's true.
The OE fuel system will probably suffice for most applications, though it might be on the edge.
Once you cross 300 HP, its worth the relatively minor expense to upgrade the injectors, especially in light of how thirsty the rotary is.
Cheap insurance.
And even if the published data is off by 20%, a 100% increase in capacity - even if its really 80% - is still a significant margin.
The actual flow values are a bit irrelevant as long as you know how to adjust the scaling in response to the difference between expected flow and actual AFRs.

Uh, I am not jeef, but I have the injectors that Scott sold. He sold 650cc/min Sieman Dekas (High impedance) and 780cc/min Densos (IIRC) that were low impedance. While it has not yet been proved by a failure and I ran the 780s for several weeks, you should not run low impedance injectors on the stock pcm as it likely does not have drivers to run low impedance injectors (the int-x does.) Again, while I dont know of any failures, running low impedance injectors on Honduhs has fried boards in the past.

If you followed Scott's suggestion on where to put the injectors, you may want to consider switching the larger injectors to bank two. (As you will be pulling the 780s.) You can get 650s from Fluid Motorsports. Make sure they are machined correctly. (The ones you got from scott had machined collars. )

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Thank you so much, carbonRX8! This information was a great help to me. I would like to know which injectors that I have, Is there any easy way for me to check the impedance on all the fuel injectors to make sure that they are High Impedance? For example, use an ohm meter on the relay contacts in the fuse box for example? or probe a certain wire on the PCM Connector? What ohm level am I looking for?

Ok, I might have answered my own question...

If someone could look at the chart below and tell me what fuel injectors I may be running, that would be helpful. I have measured my resistances on my fuel injectors.

I think that I have High impedance Fuel injectors in:
Front Primary 1
Rear Primary 1
Front Primary 2
Rear Primary 2

and I think I have low impedance Injectors in:
Front Secondary
Rear Secondary

Could someone comment on this setup and let me know what fuel injectors I may have, as well as if this setup will work with the Cobb Access port?

Thanks!

PS. Note in the picture below that there is a shot of my relay box. In the Electrical wiring diagram for this car, one wire of the fuel injector was connected to the PCM Wiring harness and the other wire was indicated to be connected to "B+"

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