Springs: Racing Beat Set - $240 from racingbeat.com or rx7store.net
Sway Bars: Progressauto.com - $286
Intake: Racing Beat RevI with duct- $330 + $130 from rx7store.net
Flywheel and clutch: ACT Prolite Combo with ACT Clutch Street/strip - $725 from rx7store.net
Pulleys: Agency Power Pulleys - $
Shocks/Struts:
Brakes: Powerslot rotors - $286 front $262 rear from racingbeat.com
Exhaust: Racing Beat exhaust - $655 from racingbeat.com
Radiator: Koyo aluminum - $360 from rx7store.net
Coilovers: Tien Basic - $720 from rx7store.net
Ignition:
ECU upgrade: Racing Beat Reflash $295
Air/fuel ratio gauge: NGK AFX Wideband kit - $269 from rx7store.net
Carbon fiber hood:
Carbon fiber trunk door:
Carbon fiber Spoiler:
Wheels: Black O.Z. ultraleggera 18 x 8 (225/45-18) - $325 each ($1300 total) from tirerack.com
Tires: BF Goodrich g-Force T/A KDW (225/45 ZR18) - $163.80 from tires-easy.com ($655.20 total)

Total without tires: $5858

Nice little list there.

i still have to find some parts like the carbon fiber, but my goal is to keep it completely N/A, get about 220 - 230 rwhp, and weigh about 2500 lbs, and still look awesome, its going to be a challenge getting the hp up there, but the weight loss will be easy. I know a bunch of friends who have civics and crxs so they are pros at weight loss.

but my goal is to keep it completely N/A, get about 220 - 230 rwhp, .

no one has got close to that yet - sorry but it ain't going to happen with that list

there are way more parts on that list, when i am done with it, i may have up to 20 grand in this car, and some may say that keeping it N/A isnt worth it, but if i also drop 500 lbs, she will be nice and fast.

no one has got close to that yet - sorry but it ain't going to happen with that list

True.

But it is a nice list. Save a little money and drop the intake and radiator (unless u are AT) from that list. Just not needed nor are much beneficial, stock intake/radiator are fine. If you take the $ saved from those you can get a ZEX nitrous setup that WILL put you around those numbers. Have fun!

i still have to find some parts like the carbon fiber, but my goal is to keep it completely N/A, get about 220 - 230 rwhp, and weigh about 2500 lbs, and still look awesome, its going to be a challenge getting the hp up there, but the weight loss will be easy. I know a bunch of friends who have civics and crxs so they are pros at weight loss.


...and dont let those ricers hack up your ride!!! LOL:lol2: no offense. Just remember, your ride is 10x nicer than those civics, not to mention the civics are prob bought and paid for.

oh no, im not gonna let them touch my car, its just they know a lot about weight loss, one has a 1500 pound crx. it has about 140 whp, but with that low weight, that translates to a pretty good power to weight ratio, so im just gonna take suggestions from them

Just a few random thoughts...

1) Why do you have Racingbeat springs AND Tein Coilovers?
2) No Highflow/Catless midpipe?

Just a few random thoughts...

1) Why do you have Racingbeat springs AND Tein Coilovers?
2) No Highflow/Catless midpipe?

Tein considers their 'coilovers' to be the actual coilovers themselves and shocks, so he would obviously needed some springs to go with.

there's nothing wrong with rb springs. apparently they're real good. i've got a buddy with them on. the drop isn't much but the spring ratings are real great, so I can only imagine it's quite a combo.

and as far as the highflow/catless deal, i'm more than sure he's bound to get one if he wants to get anywhere near '220-230' whp.

I dont think its possible to cut 500 lbs on the car. 250 might be possible if CRH can come up with some TI PPF.

Yah how exactly are you going to cut that much weight? I hope you at least have the base model with no options, because if you have all the other stupid options it'll be even more difficult.

I don't see you dropping that much weight off the car unless you go crazy and start getting very aggressive.

racing lightweight battery?

no one has got close to that yet - sorry but it ain't going to happen with that list

TeamRX8??? cobb flash....

I don't know how old you are or your financial situation but that's a good start in a Roth IRA. In 20-30 years you'll curse this board. :)

Ask yourself why you want 220hp and sub a few hundred pounds. The new 8 is coming and if it has the 1.6L you're 220whp will still suck. Not to mention you'll have a noisy car that now a two seater and you'll never be able to resell because it's now worth less than KBB.

ok, mmmmmaybe i wont be droping 500 pounds, but i will drop as much as possible. I dont plan on selling this car, i plan on having it the rest of my life. If the new cars come with the 1.6, and i am not satisfied with 220 rwhp, then i can always go FI, but for now, i will stay N/A. And Cody Red, you are correct, that is what i plan on doing. I dont have a midpipe on there because i am still adding to that list. each thing that is on there, has been recommended by someone on here, or i have done a decent amount of reading on and decided that it is a good part. Thank you to all that are supporting me and also to all of you that dont. I enjoy your constructive criticiszm(spelling).

I enjoy your constructive criticiszm(spelling).

I wasn't poking holes in your plan. However... if you can't spell criticism and can't look up it's correct spelling, I highly suggest your spend your $6K+ going back to school.

EDIT: Just looking at your signature confirms my above thoughts, "i many not know much now, but i am damn willing to learn"

There is some decent stuff on that list, and some worthless stuff too. CF parts? Worthless unless you want the look. Brake rotors? The OEM ones are great. Why the radiator upgrade unless you plan on doing a LOT of track time. Same with wideband..that would only be useful if you are getting tuned, and without a real ECU, there isn't much point in that.

There is some decent stuff on that list, and some worthless stuff too. CF parts? Worthless unless you want the look. Brake rotors? The OEM ones are great. Why the radiator upgrade unless you plan on doing a LOT of track time. Same with wideband..that would only be useful if you are getting tuned, and without a real ECU, there isn't much point in that.

I love the look of carbon fiber, and the hood will help with cooling cause it has good vents, the brake rotors will help along with the radiator because i plan on running the track quite a bitt. I will be tuing the car with a emu, but staying N/A, so i think the wideband will help to get the most performance out of it

I wasn't poking holes in your plan. However... if you can't spell criticism and can't look up it's correct spelling, I highly suggest your spend your $6K+ going back to school.

EDIT: Just looking at your signature confirms my above thoughts, "i many not know much now, but i am damn willing to learn"

im too lazy to look up the spelling, and i dont really care. Yes i did change my sig to make it correct grammar wise

im too lazy to look up the spelling, and i dont really care. Yes i did change my sig to make it correct grammar wise

No you didn't.

I see you're 18 and really excited to own a nice car. I highly encourage you to look into the magical wonders of comounding interest. Being young you have the most to gain from it. Look at the table below and see how much just dumping $6K into an IRA right now (and nothing else) nets you. The RX-8 will not be the last or probably the best car you ever own. You're in Wisco, it will be a pile of rust in a less than 10 years!

The racing beat exhaust weighs more than the stock, or very close to. Why didnt you go lighter there?

If you are going to drop 20K into the car for 220 whp that is retarded. For that price you are getting close to a 3 rotor price.

Dont bother replacing the hood, the stock one is already pretty light. Your money would be better spent elsewhere. Or you could take off all the body panels and tell people it is a modified ariel atom....

damn, thats a good chunck of change. I wont let my 8 become a pile of rust, i will be getting the Ziebart rust proofing premium package, which should protect the car since they spray the stuff wherever humanly possible. But i will look into the IRA. Thanks for looking out for me

That is averaging a 10% return. In the current markets that is very easily obtainable. But who knows what lies in the future, that is merely an estimate of what it could be worth.

I have been getting closer to a 30 - 40% return the past few years.

Any fool can tell you that any rustproofing "treatment" is purely snake oil. The 8 is already undercoated and all those nuts and bolts are made of cheap metal and will rust no matter what you do.

Get a copy of the warranty before you spend a dime. I'll bet they don't really warranty anything.
http://www.ziebart.com/Index.aspx?mid=2&PageId=50

ok, i will go there, but if it is just the bolts that will rust, why do you say that its going to turn into a pile of rust? why dont they just use aluminum bodies?

Tein considers their 'coilovers' to be the actual coilovers themselves and shocks, so he would obviously needed some springs to go with.

there's nothing wrong with rb springs. apparently they're real good. i've got a buddy with them on. the drop isn't much but the spring ratings are real great, so I can only imagine it's quite a combo.

The OP lists "Tein Basics" specifically. That is a spring/damper combination. There is no need to purchase Racing Beat springs.

If he wants the Racing Beat spring rates, than he's better to get the Koni Yellows.

The OP lists "Tein Basics" specifically. That is a spring/damper combination. There is no need to purchase Racing Beat springs.

If he wants the Racing Beat spring rates, than he's better to get the Koni Yellows.

ok, i will change that

ok, i will change that

Also, cut out powerslot rotors, koyo radiator, and the AFR gauge, and the power pulleys.

The RX-8 bascially comes with a big break kit as is...that is almost a direct quote from Powerslot to me about two years ago. Unless you simply want the look of the rotors, you are better spending your money elsewhere.

You live in Wisconsin, and I've tracked my RX-8 in 100 degree weather and not overheated. For NA, you have nothing to worry about...but if you're concerned, the Mazmart water pump is a better fix, and it's cheaper.

If you're getting the RB flash, then there is no need for an AFR gauge. That is only useful if you're going to roll up your sleeves and tune the engine. With the RB flash, you won't be doing that and don't even have the option.

The power pulleys will net you maybe 2hp...as has been shown by dynos on this site time and time again...if you want power and acceleration, get these three mods: RB flash, high flow cat/or straight pipe, flywheel. Consider the intake and cat back exhaust beneficial, but secondary.

ok, i will go there, but if it is just the bolts that will rust, why do you say that its going to turn into a pile of rust? why dont they just use aluminum bodies?

Why do you think they don't make complete Al bodies? Steel is cheap.

Why will it turn to rust? Rock chips. They start the road to ruin. You pretty much can't keep up with those. I was just grinding rust out from inside the fuel filler area. How the heck did I get rust where no rocks can get to? It's a fact of life for us snow belters. Go to TX or CA and be amazed at all the 70's cars that look like they just rolled off the lots.

Ziebart offers undercarriage and panel gap "rust proofing". Your car already has a rust through warranty for FREE. This is from the inside of the panel out not outside in. Ziebart is only covering you for the same thing. Rusting nuts & bolts on the undercarriage are cheaper to replace than whatever Ziebart charges in their ANNUAL maintenance REQUIRED plan.

ok, i will just replace all my underbody bolts with stainless steel bolts.

My Parts to get:

Springs: Racing Beat Set - $240 from racingbeat.com or rx7store.net
Sway Bars: Progressauto.com - $286
Intake: Racing Beat RevI with duct- $330 + $130 from rx7store.net
Flywheel and clutch: ACT Prolite Combo with ACT Clutch Street/strip - $725 from rx7store.net
Pulleys: Agency Power Pulleys - $144 from rx7store.net
Shocks/Struts: Koni Yellow front and rear - $305 from racingbeat.com
Brakes: Powerslot rotors - $286 front $262 rear from racingbeat.com
Exhaust: Racing Beat exhaust - $655 from racingbeat.com
Radiator: 2004 RX-8 Competition - $656.06 from awrracing.com
Ignition: OEM Coils from will @ mazmart 1-800-221-5156
Wires: Ultra Ignition wires - $95 from racingbeat.com
Plugs: from sparkplugs.com
ECU upgrade: Racing Beat Reflash $295
Air/fuel ratio gauge: NGK AFX Wideband kit - $269 from rx7store.net
Carbon fiber hood: Seibon Carbon Fiber Hood (TS Style) -$656.95 from racinglab.com
Carbon fiber trunk: Seibon OEM Carbon fiber trunk - $608.97 from gofastperformance.com
Carbon fiber Spoiler:
Wheels: Black O.Z. ultraleggera 18 x 8 (225/45-18) - $325 each ($1300 total) from tirerack.com
Tires: Bridgestone Potenza S-03 Pole Position (225/45ZR18) - $129 from tirerack.com ($516 total)
BF Goodrich g-Force T/A KDW (225/45 ZR18) - $163.80 from tires-easy.com ($655.20 total)
Water pump: Mazmart
Midpipe: rx7store.net
Total as of 10/12/2007: $7897

Or Ti if you want to achieve those weight savings. That's a joke BTW. Don't go into debt for a car. Seriously - don't.

Occupation:
Remanufacturing Planner and Materials Manager at Harley Davidson

Wait... you're a materials manager and you're asking why manufacturers don't make cars out of Al? :Wconfused Oh boy. :pat:

Occupation:
Remanufacturing Planner and Materials Manager at Harley Davidson

Wait... you're a materials manager and you're asking why manufacturers don't make cars out of Al? :Wconfused Oh boy. :pat:

my materials management deals with ordering the parts, not what they are made of or that type of stuff, and i am actually pretty big on metallurgy, i love it

Or Ti if you want to achieve those weight savings. That's a joke BTW. Don't go into debt for a car. Seriously - don't.

and im not going to take out a loan for all this, or buy it all on a credit card, that is stupid i know. This is just my goal list for parts i will get when i can afford each, but by the end of the winter, i will have the exhaust, intake, the RB reflash, coils, plugs and wires at least. Maybe the sway bars and springs. i am getting a raise soon, so im going to start putting a set amount of money aside in a savings account to use on parts or if anything happens to my car.

Like I said before the RB exhaust is nice, but if you are looking to achieve weight savings look elsewhere.

There are lots of options that will help you save weight, the RB is not one of them.

Like I said before the RB exhaust is nice, but if you are looking to achieve weight savings look elsewhere.

There are lots of options that will help you save weight, the RB is not one of them.

like the JIC TI that is $1100?

the greddy, mazdaspeed, corksport or any other exhaust will save weight. Just the racing beat is very heavy.

Yes you can use the JIC if you want but the others are much cheaper and at least will save you some weight.

You started another thread?

I told you to tint it, slam it, subwoofer it, and get new shoes. LOL

or you can get the HKS single tip and save a bunch from not having a HUGE muffler

and all of them would release about the same hp, correct? i dont want the HKS single, cause dual exhaust is so much better. I think i will go with either the corksport or mazdaspeed, i will see which one is lighter. but the mazdaspeed is pretty damn expensive, especially from a dealer. i dont really like greddy parts, havent heard good things from them. Thanks for all of your support. if any of you guys want to take my chart of parts and use it for yourself go ahead, that is one of the reasons i put it up.

and all of them would release about the same hp, correct? i dont want the HKS single, cause dual exhaust is so much better. I think i will go with either the corksport or mazdaspeed, i will see which one is lighter. but the mazdaspeed is pretty damn expensive, especially from a dealer. i dont really like greddy parts, havent heard good things from them. Thanks for all of your support. if any of you guys want to take my chart of parts and use it for yourself go ahead, that is one of the reasons i put it up.

None of them will really increase any power. I personally have the greddy and the fitment is fine, I have had no problems.

ok, i am going with the corksport, here is my new list. Make any recommendations if you want.

My Parts to get:

Springs: Racing Beat Set - $240 from racingbeat.com or rx7store.net
Sway Bars: Progressauto.com - $286
Intake: Racing Beat RevI with duct- $330 + $130 from rx7store.net
Flywheel and clutch: ACT Prolite Combo with ACT Clutch Street/strip - $725 from rx7store.net
Shocks/Struts: Koni Yellow front and rear - $305 from racingbeat.com
Brakes: Mazdaspeed Brake Pads - $376 from corksport.com
Exhaust: Corksport 'Power Series' Exhaust - $550 from corksport.com
Ignition: OEM Coils from will @ mazmart 1-800-221-5156
Wires: Ultra Ignition wires - $95 from racingbeat.com
Plugs: from sparkplugs.com
ECU upgrade: Racing Beat Reflash $295
Carbon fiber hood: Seibon Carbon Fiber Hood (TS Style) -$656.95 from racinglab.com
Carbon fiber trunk: Seibon OEM Carbon fiber trunk - $608.97 from gofastperformance.com
Carbon fiber Spoiler:
Wheels: Black O.Z. ultraleggera 18 x 8 (225/45-18) - $325 each ($1300 total) from tirerack.com
Tires: BF Goodrich g-Force T/A KDW (225/45 ZR18) - $163.80 from tires-easy.com ($655.20 total)
Water pump: Mazmart
Midpipe: Stainless resonated midpipe - $280 from rx7store.net
Total as of 10/12/2007: $6831

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Just reading all this and thinking - this guy is taking all the mud slinging pretty well . I've seen guys self destruct on here for less . Good going chetrickerman .
Seeing as you seem receptive I have some advice for you as well .
Make your goals for the car part of a bigger plan . Say to yourself things like - once I've made/saved x$ I'll set aside y$ for the car and z$ will be reinvested into something that makes more money . Set goals like this and pretty soon you will not only have the car of your dreams but much more .... my 2c

Fabulous advice Brettus.

Just reading all this and thinking - this guy is taking all the mud slinging pretty well . I've seen guys self destruct on here for less . Good going chetrickerman .
Seeing as you seem receptive I have some advice for you as well .
Make your goals for the car part of a bigger plan . Say to yourself things like - once I've made/saved x$ I'll set aside y$ for the car and z$ will be reinvested into something that makes more money . Set goals like this and pretty soon you will not only have the car of your dreams but much more .... my 2c

mudslinging? i already have a plan, since i work for harley davidson, i have a very good 401K plan, so i will put about $200-400 every month into this plan, in a couple years, i will have about 20 grand, so i am also thinking about my future money plans as well as my car. Thanks for the advice.

he means like,

plan too get nitrous, then plan too get your money back by street racing...

And this is something I learned from talking about cars in high school: "After 30 seconds of talking about it, nobody will care until you actually have it"

i dont care about what people think of my list, yes, i ask for their advice on it, and these are all goals. Its good for me to plan out and then go buy the parts, rather than just go buy them all on a credit card. do you agree?

[QUOTE=Keef;2093365]he means like,

plan too get nitrous, then plan too get your money back by street racing...

QUOTE]

LOL - yes exactly what I meant - could not have put it better

It's a good thing to have something to work for. Make sure you put the full 15% of each check in your 401K. The more money now the more money later - compunding interest. Find a 401K calculator online and play around to see why you should sock it all away now. Retire early with a Ferrari not a Mazda.

One last thing, correct your damn Sig!!! "i many not know much now"? I many???

I made a parts list too when I first got my 8 3 years ago. Now, 3 years on, I've probably only crossed off a third! Haha! Good luck to you my friend and welcome to the club.

It's a good thing to have something to work for. Make sure you put the full 15% of each check in your 401K. The more money now the more money later - compunding interest. Find a 401K calculator online and play around to see why you should sock it all away now. Retire early with a Ferrari not a Mazda.

One last thing, correct your damn Sig!!! "i many not know much now"? I many???

I have it automatically deposited in every month, so when im 25 i can put a down payment on a house or something. rotor krueser i know it will take a little while for me to complete mine, but not quite 3 years, maybe a year and a half

I have a buddy like that, he just bought a MR2, and has shown me the parts list too. then i asked him why he wants to spend that much money on a car.....he said" i just love it"....its actually understandable...thinking if one day i became really rich, i would spend a lot money on a lot nice japenese tuners like 8s, skyline, supra......cuz i am still young too..haha
but by the way, did you check the shipping cost from tireesay? it costs way more than tirerack........but the tires are cheaper.
GOOD LUCK

I have it automatically deposited in every month, so when im 25 i can put a down payment on a house or something. rotor krueser i know it will take a little while for me to complete mine, but not quite 3 years, maybe a year and a half

401Ks aren't for houses and personal loans, THEY ARE FOR RETIREMENT!!!

Why did this turn into a finacial counciling?

Cause he's 18, has lousy spelling and grammar and is looking to spend a shirt load on a rotary powered car. Young and dumb (no offense chet). It's called looking out for someone.

Ha. Thats one of the most ignornant statements ever. How many other people have spent all kinds of money on their "rotary powered" car, yet do you run around telling them what to do with their money? Do you troll on the honda forums too to tell them how to spend their 401Ks? Get a hobby.

Cause he's 18, has lousy spelling and grammar and is looking to spend a shirt load on a rotary powered car. Young and dumb (no offense chet). It's called looking out for someone.

Cause? The definition of cause is:
a person or thing that acts, happens, or exists in such a way that some specific thing happens as a result; the producer of an effect.

Oh, you meant "because." I thought you were talking about lousy spelling and grammar.:lol2:

i dont care about what people think of my list, yes, i ask for their advice on it, and these are all goals. Its good for me to plan out and then go buy the parts, rather than just go buy them all on a credit card. do you agree?

hahaha... your reasoning sounds like my mentality... Except for I didn't plan chit and a credit card is my 2nd addiction...

wow, if I only had that much money to piss away. Get the S/C and save yourself 10,000 on trying to lighten your car up and stuff. Your logic wait, you don't have any logic.

Unless youa re planning to go forced induction there is absolutely no need for a new clutch. The stock clutch will easily handle NA mods. You don't need a new clutch until you are closer to the 250-270 whp range.

I have the JIC Titanium unit, & it weighs a ton less than the stock unit. Get the RP Supercat & JIC cat back unit & you just saved about 30-35 lbs. off the car.

thanks savedsol for looking out for me, and i know all of you other guys may think im stupid, but im not just gonna get a credit card and buy all of it at once, i am gonna get a credit card, but just to build my credit. but im just going to get things one at a time.

No need to explain yourself, honestly. But I would instead, save up money & go FI.. You'll be a lot more happier in the end .

+1

i would love too, honestly, but if i did want to go FI, i would want to buy a kit that has EVERYTHING i need to put on, and a good emu.

and it needs to be reliable for a daily driver. and through winter.

i would love too, honestly, but if i did want to go FI, i would want to buy a kit that has EVERYTHING i need to put on, and a good emu.

there are kits that are like that, an example would be the mazport turbs, but those kits would cost you alot, you can buy like SFR, Esmeril, or others and buy their entire upgrade packs which would have everything you need also,

or just buy a pettit supercharger and call it a day

there are kits that are like that, an example would be the mazport turbs, but those kits would cost you alot, you can buy like SFR, Esmeril, or others and buy their entire upgrade packs which would have everything you need also,

or just buy a pettit supercharger and call it a day

thats what i will most likely do, it seems like they have good support if i need help, and it looks like there is a lot of people on here with them. and they have decent prices. a little while ago someone said to me dont get it because it has a low torque curve and low hp, but i dont need all that much. The MOST i would want is 300 rwhp, and like i said before, i need it to be daily driven and good through the winters of wisconsin.