Over the last few months, I haven’t been able to reply to any posts on my threads, here’s an update. So far all of my issues have been resolved. I have no misfire no hot starting issues nothing. All I did was make sure that I had oil flow from my sohn oils tank and that’s fixed. Currently working on fixing some bumper issues from getting backed into in a parking lot, but everything mechanical is in great shape. I was wondering, though, how hard were these engines let you run them before they start having problems? Is there a point in which I should not push it past, is there an RPM I should always keep it below or not run out for us certain amount of time? It’s a fun car, I just don’t wanna push it too hard. So far I have not had my temperature gauge, go anywhere over top center, and is performing nicely no matter the weather. Still have a eingine light because I have a O2 sensor gone bad, but that’ll take a while to get fixed since I don’t have a shop to work in right now. Also, do I have to run rotary premix or can I run normal two-stroke oil? If y’all have any thoughts or wanting clarification on answers to any of my other threads, just let me know.

 

These cars need to be wound out once in awhile. Don't be afraid to get to drive full throttle. This actions all the valves, some lf which only activate at the top of the range, and consistent high load, high pressure high heat has some carbon cleaning effects. They actually are more likely to develop problems if grannied.

You don't beed rotary premix, although it won't hurt either. Any JASO FD certified two stroke will do. Usually this is the snowmobile kind, not the marine kind. Lucas semi synth has been my go to for many years.

 

[QUOTE=Loki;4997703

You don't beed rotary premix, although it won't hurt either. Any JASO FD certified two stroke will do. Usually this is the snowmobile kind, not the marine kind. Lucas semi synth has been my go to for many years.[/QUOTE]


Thanks! About the 2 stroke oil, I am referring to the sohn oil adapter that replaces the omp and keeps the eingine oil from running through the combustion cycle. It just injects clean burning 2 stroke instead. Can I run plain 2 stroke oil in that?


Also, does it care about running up to 7or 8 thousand for a short bit?

 

Right, as I said, it needs to see full throttle application up to 7-8-9k regularly and JASO FD rated 2-stroke for the Sohn.

 

test

 

Thanks! So there's nothing bad about running it hard? Is It bad to run it hard for longer periods? Also, when I got the car it had a check engine light and said the upstream o2 sensor was bad, low voltage. I replaced it with a cheap one from Amazon and now it says high voltage mizture too lean. Any thoughts about finding a decent sensor for it under 75?

 

Find the correct sensor. What exactly did you install? Widebands are not going to be that cheap.

Yes, rotaries handle hard driving well and even require it once in a while. It's well documented by rotary shops that cars that are not driven hard die an early death from fuel dilution, worn bearings and carbon. Rotaries don't experience the same high rpm stresses that reciprocating engines do. It's all fine. ASSUMING the engine is healthy. Obviously don't beat on a sick car until its fixed

 

 

How is everything going?

 

Well, a friend thinks he is hearing blow-by, so it is probably time to swap apex seals. what is the cheapest way to do that? What is the bare minimum, with of course including water seals.

 

just pop new ones in through the spark plug holes

 

Is friend paying for it? Lol how does one hear blowby and diagnose apex seals, which cannot lead to blow by to begin with.

 

and

 

I get the reasoning, I have know idea if he is right, i just have 80k on the eingine, and I figgured it was about time

 

well you can spend 2-300 and buy a tester/get it tested or waste 5-7k on a rebuild that may or may not be needed.

i gotta ask what does hearing blow by sound like and did you test this using your ears or some other high tech tool?