Been a lurker way too long and have finally ordered the Brettspeed manifold. I love my RX8, but have always craved more power, so really excited for the end result. I'll use this thread to document the build and installation process on a 2005 RX8 231.

I'm going to do this properly and order all the items in Brett's G30-660 thread.

 

Arrived today. Thank you @Brettus for the beautiful manifold and engine mount 😍 The pipe kit should arrive next week. Also received my Garrett G30-660 😎

 

Looks like you're off to a great start! I'm curious about the installation process - are you planning to do it yourself or get a shop involved? Either way, keep us posted on the progress!

 

Hi ditto. I'm going to try and do everything myself except the fabrication work. Once everything is installed, I'll hire a car trailer and transport the car to the fabricator for the downpipe, IC, intake pipes, etc. I don't have a big garage so will only be able to work on the car when the weather is good.

 

Received a few more goodies. Just look at that pipe and drain kit from @Brettus

 

First job done. Installed the new DeatschWerks DW200 fuel pump as recommended by Brett. Quite a big job and very scary working in the fuel tank. I made sure to disconnect the battery first and wear rubber gloves


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The fuel tank housing removal tool I bought worked a treat. I should also mention that alignment of the housing needs to be correct when reinstalling. Make sure the arrow faces the notch under the retaining ring (towards the front of the car)



For those wanting to do the upgrade themselves, follow the instructions in the pic below to swap out the pump. A heat gun comes in handy when removing and installing the hoses.

 

you should have switched to the Series 2 fuel pump module assembly
.
.

 

Hi TeamRX8. What benefits would I get from a series 2 pump assembly?

 

I believe the s2 basket is a better design that is not as likely to fuel starve on low fuel levels.

 

Well proven on an N/A, but not something I'd hang my hat on for a turbo car.

 

Meanwhile me, running stock fuel pump in a stock s1 basket at over 360g/s of airflow. The "secret" is I no longer run the factory fuel line, but an AN6 hose with no sharp bends like the factory hardline.

 

Dang ... would not have thought that possible on the stock pump!

 

I swear on my whole car that it still has a "new" (4 year old) stock fuel pump in it while doing that airflow. Think about it! The fuel pump is a centrifugal type spinning at a constant speed(assuming high speed operation; w/o series resistor). Remove some of the restrictions till the fuel rail and you don't need a stronger electric motor spinning faster to deliver more flow. Not only is my AN6 hose much larger in diameter, it also has very smooth bends(and less of them) compared to the factory hardline. A bigger pump would be like running more boost(at the pump output, losing lots of that pressure till you get to the fuel rails); a bigger diameter fuel line with less bends would be like removing restrictions.

 

I would be interested in doing this conversion for the sheer benefit of eliminating concerns of the oem lines clips failing and causing a major leak or even worse a fire... Would you be up to either making a thread on here on how you did it or have me hit you up on fb messenger?

 

Buy 20ft of AN6 hose(having more laying around the house helps), a 5/16 quick disconnect to AN6 male(this goes on the yellow injector fuel rail), 3/8 quick disconnect to AN6 male(goes on fuel pump output), 120deg AN6 female hose end, straight female hose end and that's all. I don't have pictures... this was 4 years ago and I did this because some idiot before me simply snapped off the plastic hardline coming into the fuel tank output barb. I simply had no choice but to replace the factory hardline from the fuel tank till the engine bay. Why not take the chance and just replace it with new stuff?


Pic of my AN6 setup - fuel pump side. I had wrapped the PTFE AN6 hose with some black tape just for looks.

 

Received the TR10C intercooler, Synapse Recirculation Valve, and Honeycomb MAF tube from the US today - I used the "MyUS" forwarding service to combine and ship all the items to the UK. It ended up being half the price of the quote I received to ship the IC by itself. Bonus!



Also received the MAC 4 port solenoid earlier in the week

 

Second job done. Shortened the lower main water hose to 90mm in preparation for fitting the turbo outlet pipe.

 

I love it when people read the instructions!

 

This is insane since the FPR in in the tank, and not the fuel rail.. ie, a higher flowing pump won't keep the pressure if the output pressure is regulated at the pump, and pressure/flow is lost by the time it reaches fuel manifod..
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(Insane as it exceptional ect) Or I'm missing where the FPR is located at?

 

The weather hasn't been great recently, so I've started working on some of the smaller tasks. I didn't want to cut up the Greddy solenoid cable, so I ordered some waterproof plugs off ebay and soldered them to the mac 4-port solenoid wires. It ended up being the same connector type as the Greddy kit, so I only had to wire the connecting end.


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I also got out my dremel and cut the ashtray to fit the Greddy boost controller - just need to silicone it in place after doing a test fit. For the cigarette lighter hole, I'm going to try and install a Rotary start button.

 

I was in the process of ordering a plug to wire up my MAC 4 port, mind either posting or PMing me the link so I can order mine? It would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

+1 ^^ that info is golden usually

 

Sure, here is the ebay uk link -> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144964862665

 

Dropped off the manifold, wastegate, and turbo housing yesterday to get covered in heatshield. I also test fitted the Block8head guage pod I bought off Facebook marketplace.

 

Looking forward to seeing how the shielding works out!