My question is how hard should I drive this. I redline once a day perhaps, maybe less, once a week. I feel extremely guilty about getting on it, like I'm treating it wrong. It feels strong, like it's flexing legs, but I don't want to run it into the ground driving to aggressive.i shift at 2-3k when in non agro mode. When I run it I shift at 6-9k. Just wanting to know if I should not feel guilty and run it hard(warmed up fully ofcourse). If so how hard to run it? I do strict maintenance (oil change at 3k) new everything almost. So what are your guys thoughts? Man up or keep it up?

 

Drive it hard. Thats what it wants. You should also start mixing your gas with 2 stroke oil.

 

Alright I'm going to look into premixing. Thanks!

 

I get how you feel, I feel guilty too sometimes, but remember these engines only spin one way, where piston motors have constant counter force going up and down... that adds a lot more abuse factor to the RPM range, than with a rotary.. As long as you aren't doing it from a dig all the time and or power shifting it, etc... and just running it through the RPM range (figure in 2nd gear merging on a highway) you're just stretching the motor's legs, not causing exceptional strain anywhere else really.

 

Alright I tend to run it through the range rather than from a dig. I don't power shift , or anything hard on it

 

I was told by the board to shift up to 2nd at moderate RPMs but really drive it like it was designed through 2-6th gears. How's that for specifically vague?

 

Drive it like you stole it!

 

Yeah I don't rip the 1-2 shift... Hard on trans. The 2-6 thing though? ;D

 

Insert brapbrap here

 

Yeah man, don't feel guilty haha. Our engines LOVE it.

It's funny because I'm the opposite.. I feel guilty when I drive it like a baby!!

Basically, if you're getting the suggested MPG (19-20), then you're probably not driving it hard enough!!

 

Correct.
14-15 mpg is my average.
I drive very 'enthusiastically'.

 

I get 14.1 mpg in 20% city / 80% hwy driving (no premix). The premix mpg average moved up to 15.3 with premixing FD-grade 2-stroke oil from Motul. I drive like BC, enthusiastically. Hard not to with the handling.

 

cant delete and cant post empty

 

And then the way it like to be shut down. (Hold rpm at 3k for 10sec and turn it off). Its like it just dont wanna stop. Or like i good night..... Ya its saying good night. lets go with that. 😊

 

I get 10-12mpg because I havent quite figured out what that middle pedal on my floor does?

 

Anyone else downshift instead of breaking. I love the pop it lets out. Oh no cat thats why

 

Yeah I do that all the time^ Love to hear angry crackling. Thanks for all of the replies, just was slightly paranoid I somehow wasn't driving it right

 

Let me put it this way. Seventeen thousand of my car's 37K miles are track miles. I just had a compression test a couple of weeks ago. The rotary specialist at the dealership could not believe his eyes in terms of how high my compression is, so he ran the test twice to confirm. He thinks it is the BHR ignition and high flow cat. I think it is a combination of those things, premix, and driving the **** out of it as much as I have.

OP, if you are looking at starting to premix, check out Lucas Semi Synthetic 2 Cycle oil. I buy it by the gallon from Amazon, and it meets or exceeds all the prerequisites (JASO FD) for a quality premix for our cars. O'Reilly also sells it by the quart, but they are expensive. If you live near an Academy store, they may have Mystik JT-4 Personal Watercraft 2 Cycle Oil that you can buy locally. It also meets the requirements (JASO FC).

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IMO, you want to wind it out in 2nd or 3rd (or fourth if you can find a place to do that). The thing you want is high pressure, high heat in the combustion chamber, for a long period of time. A bit like the self cleaning function in your oven. The rpm is actually irrelevant, what matter is you're at full throttle under load.

 

How would you say it compares to Idemitsu rotary/racing specific fully synthetic? I got a case of it with my car when I bought it, I was probably going to stick with it unless there is another potential option.

 

It is impossible to know. It meets the same industry specs as Idemitsu. Other than that, actual performance is anyone's guess without hard data, which doesn't exist to my knowledge.

 

I figured. Thanks for the input

 

Actually, the shut down procedure you've described is not necessary for normal driving; it's Mazda's procedure for shut down when the engine's still cold in order to avoid flooding. (For example, for when you start it up in the morning just to move the car ten feet in the driveway, and then immediately turn it off before it's had a chance to warm up.)

That procedure is not necessary when the engine has reached normal operating temperature.