Greetings RX8ers! My son is looking for an RX8 and we came across one that is in very nice shape for a 2004. All is great with a mechanical inspection EXCEPT the compression numbers:
Rotor 1 = 6.0 kpa, 6.0 kpa, 5.7 kpa @ 276 rpm
Rotor 2 = 5.7 kpa, 5.4 kpa, 5.3 kpa @ 281 rpm

Reading in the forums, these numbers appear to be catastrophic and the car shouldn't be running, but on a test drive, it pulls well and has good, smooth power.

My question to you experts, would you buy this car?

 

If you are planning on buying it with compression scores that low you may want to factor in what it's going to cost for an engine replacement.

If the math all works for you then sure.

You sure those are KPA and not kg/cm2?

Read through the threads linked in my sig the new and potential owners thread is a must for all 8 owners.

https://www.rx8club.com/attachments/...sion_chart-png
Travis

 

Thanks Williard, according to the chart, either kpa or kg/cm2, these numbers are low, no?

 

How does the car start on operating temperature?? How is the power?

It's not relevant, but just curious how reliable the hot start test can be.

About 7.4kPa is the minimum spec at around 280rpm, so consider the engine fucked.

What is the price if we may ask?

 

You didn"t mentioned the price. But consider you will pay as much or more for a reman or rebuilt engine as the entire car is worth being a 2004. I would pass on this car as there are even more things to consider that may need to be addressed depending on the car's mileage. The car can appear alright and appear to run fine, but if you have never owned and driven a rotary engine, you really don't know how it should feel and perform. If you still choose to buy this car, be prepared for your "bargain" to turn into a possible expensive nightmare. Don't let your emotions for this car overrule your caution and good sense when buying any used RX8, especially a 2004. Many upgrades and improvements were needed and made after the 2004 year model.

RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

 

The car has no start issues and seems to have very good power; odd that the compression numbers show it should be pretty much dead???
The price right now is at $6500 CDN.
The maintenance of the car has been performed by the owner, but entails most of what is described in the maintenance schedule provided here.
The car currently shows 149,000 kms.

 

6500 IMO is on the very very high side for a 2004 with questionable compression values.
Nope when I think about, it's terrible.

This is going to blow gwilliams mind but I agree with him ... walk away from this one.

Unless you can get like 3500 for it all-in and you're gear head that wants a project car.

 

Agreed with the rest, dont walk, run away at that price

 

I'm still curious on how it starts tho, especially a hot start.

 

Low numbers but pretty equal so its not dead yet.. But dying slowly. At 6500$ with this motor its too expensive no matter how clean the body is. Keep looking you might find another one soon for the same $ "if that's your range" with a healthy motor.if you don't find any better at this price look for a clean 8 with a bad motor .. For wayyyy cheaper you'll still have money to put a good motor in it and maybe loose change for upgrades