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Is this a good engine oil to lubricate ur engine?

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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 09:05 PM
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Is this a good engine oil to lubricate ur engine?

Hi guys,
so did the seafoam procedure....went well!!
however, i was wondering now after doing that...if I should add the valvoline 2-cycle engine oil to my engine oil to help lubricate the engine since seafoam dryed it all out?

please help
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 09:15 PM
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You can add A BIT to the same ports you used to seafoam. Some in the tank if you like. Wouldn't recommend using regular 2cycle oil long term, engine runs too hot for that. You want idemitsu or similar rotary specific injection oil.

Don't mix it with your engine oil.
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 11:39 PM
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Actually after seafoaming and letting the car sit for 2 hours...
i poured 2oz of 2-cycle oil in a cup....and i tried suctioning it up in the same ports...unfortunately, it wouldnt be sucked up? each port took in about .5 oz....and it wouldnt take more....so would that have been enough?
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Loki
You can add A BIT to the same ports you used to seafoam. Some in the tank if you like. Wouldn't recommend using regular 2cycle oil long term, engine runs too hot for that. You want idemitsu or similar rotary specific injection oil.

Don't mix it with your engine oil.
What? All engines are too hot for 2 cycle oil, but oils cool and lube the hot metal, and are especially needed in the rotary, therefore the motor oil injection pump.

2 Stroke will beat motor oil any day because of additive packages for different conditions. Any engine that needs any 2 stroke needs it ALL the time. It's not a treat like McD.

I think you mean that you can't find a decent 2 stoke oil besides idemitsu, but there are all kinds of snowmobile engines testing good 2 cycle oil, just look them up Jaso FC or better.

Last edited by 40w8; Feb 8, 2013 at 03:24 AM.
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 07:00 AM
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2-stroke in the gas tank is fine, 2 stroke in the engine oil is NOT. That is what Loki meant.


Newbie, as soon as you crank over the engine and it fires, the oil you put in will immediately be burnt away, and more oil will be getting injected by the OMP system from the crankcase.

If you want to add 2 stroke, add it to the gas tank so that it will keep getting injected with the fuel. It's a good idea on rotaries anyway, every gas tank.

See the New Owner's thread in my sig, I have a section on premix info, on what premixes are out there and what is viable.
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 04:40 PM
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thanks guys...but a little more help...
What exact oil/brand do you guys recommend to be put into engine oil after every fill up?
what exact oil/brand do you guys recommend to be put into the gas tank after every fill up?

I just want to keep all the things of my car in top notch condition...and dont want to use any crappy brands which will do more harm than good....I know Idmitsu is the best...but its not in stores and stuff....so, any particular oil probably from wal mart or autozone that can keep the engine in good condition and the gas tank/valves...and stuff?
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 04:45 PM
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You will find someone recommending every possible option out there.

Many people top off the engine oil with the same brand and same weight of their normal change, others add whatever they can get their hands on, and others add an oil that is a step higher in viscosity than their change.

See my new owner's thread, premix section for the guidelines on choosing a premix.
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 05:21 PM
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Regular motor oil in your crank case (unscrew oil cap and pour in appropriate quantity and grade). As far as grades the manufacturer recommends 5w-20. Many including myself think this is insufficient for proper engine lubrication. I will not tell you what grade to use, read the many posts on the subject and form your own opinion. 2 cycle oil I personally use Amsoil Sabre Pro. it is realitively easy to get, does a good job and priced reasonably. the recommended amount is 1/2 ounce to every gallon of fuel. Hope this helps.
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 06:00 PM
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5w-20 is only recommended in the U.S.A., and it's straight garbage.

Same damn engine sold around the world, pick a weight that matches your climate.

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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 06:47 PM
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I thought this thread was closed?
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 07:13 PM
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10 w40 NON syth'.

There, now you may close the thread.
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 07:14 PM
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All I think you proved is that everyone has a different opinion
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
All I think you proved is that everyone has a different opinion
Especially Mazda, who offer nine or ten different weights in that chart.

Can't help noticing that the 5w20 bar spans a temperature range that would be suitable year round in a pretty big chunk of the US. Although following the handbook engineer's rule of not selecting a part at the extreme end of a table, something heavier would be prudent in midsummer and the desert states.

So it's all settled.

Ken
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
All I think you proved is that everyone has a different opinion
What happened?
Am I loosing my mind?
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 02:25 AM
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Originally Posted by wcs
What happened?
Am I loosing my mind?

Everytime a newbie shows up to get oil advice, the keepers of the knowledge around here get us into nit pick nuances, so yeah, pass the bottle.
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 40w8
Everytime a newbie shows up to get oil advice, the keepers of the knowledge around here get us into nit pick nuances, so yeah, pass the bottle.
LOL ahahahhaahhahah
Phew ok thanks man
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 10:03 PM
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Lard.
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 02:34 PM
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Yay onto 15w50; 120+F durring the summers here in Cali :c
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