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post-BHR Ignition Kit RPM Drop

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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 12:10 PM
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Unhappy post-BHR Ignition Kit RPM Drop

Hey guys. I recently bought and installed the BHR ignition kit. I can tell a big difference with the kit, so I'm pleased with it. The only problem I see is right when I let off the gas (typically to push the clutch in to roll to a stop) the RPM's drop to 500 or so. Happens when I let the clutch in at a stop, or off the gas when moving. I've searched and found nothing conclusive. I did though check a few things here and there that other threads recommended.

There is no chance of improper installation. I checked things multiple times. Unless the wires themselves are specific to a certain spark plug and coil, I don't see that being a problem.

I checked the MAF, reset the battery (for the heck of it), checked for loose or unplugged wires or hoses, etc.

Is there anything I might have forgotten to plug in, reconnect? Any help would be appreciated.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 12:14 PM
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From: BALLS DEEP
if you disconnected the battery it will take a few drive cycles for your car to re learn fuel trims. it might stall at stops, get it warmed up and redline. repeat
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 12:21 PM
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This problem was before the battery disconnection. I gave the car a test crank last night after I installed it, and after it warmed up, I revved it, and every time it would start to decelerate it would drop to 500, then idle correctly.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 12:26 PM
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From: BALLS DEEP
idk 20 brake stomp? pm bhr?
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 12:32 PM
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Do a 20 stomp brake pedal reset, then drive NORMALLY for two full drive cycles. No WOT, no mega heavy acceleration, no revving it in nuetral, just drive normal. A full drive cycle is starting from cold, driving till it reaches operating temperature, then shutting it off and letting it sit till it is completely cold again (overnight) then doing that one more time. Then the fuel trims will be set appropriately and your problem should go away.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 12:36 PM
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I wouldn't put so much emphasis on "normally"

Because "normal" for me is lots of WOT time. I'd rather have my fuel trims learned based on my actual driving rather than something else.




But if you have an issue after doing an install with one of BHR's products, give Ray a call, email, or PM. Fantastic customer service and he will be able to identify the issue.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 12:58 PM
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I will try the 20 brake pedal stomp, and I emailed BHR. Thanks for the help so far guys.

One random thing though, related to this situation somewhat. When I pulled out the airbox, there was a random rubber ring on the tray underneath the box. It's about 1/8 of an inch thick, and you can see how big it is from the picture. Did this fall off anything important? I know it's vague and hard to tell, but I just didn't know if it was something that might have fallen off something important, or it's just a support for the airbox.

For assistance, I removed the airbox and accordion tube between the box and throttle body.
Attached Thumbnails post-BHR Ignition Kit RPM Drop-photo-5-.jpg  

Last edited by ZacZapper; Nov 16, 2011 at 01:01 PM.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 01:00 PM
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That almost looks like the sealing ring for the oil cap. No air box related items looking similar that I can recall.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 01:09 PM
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Oil cap ring. Thanks.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 01:10 PM
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You probably had a vacuum leak from missing that, which could be causing part of your idle problem.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
I wouldn't put so much emphasis on "normally"

Because "normal" for me is lots of WOT time. I'd rather have my fuel trims learned based on my actual driving rather than something else.




But if you have an issue after doing an install with one of BHR's products, give Ray a call, email, or PM. Fantastic customer service and he will be able to identify the issue.

+1 Just bought a BHR Flywheel and MS Exedy clutch from them... good stuff man
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 10:13 PM
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Well, the RPM drop has resolved itself, and the kit has made a huge difference. Unfortunately, a problem I was hoping to get rid of, is still here. The car shutters quite alot. It wasn't too bad before the kit, but now, it's atleast every 5 seconds. I'm thinking spark plugs. Any other opinions?

Where's a good place to get the NGK OE plugs online for cheap? These plugs are much more than I was expecting.
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 10:24 PM
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Time for boost...
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rattle issue could be dirty:
MAF sensor
air filter
eccentric shaft position sensor
bad motor mounts
etc
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 10:28 PM
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From: Under my car
Vacuum leak.
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 08:20 AM
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Yes OD, it can. There is a vacuum line running to the oil filler neck right under the cap, and I imagine that without the oil cap o-ring the cap can't create a sufficient seal against the neck and produces a vacuum leak.
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
Yes OD, it can. There is a vacuum line running to the oil filler neck right under the cap, and I imagine that without the oil cap o-ring the cap can't create a sufficient seal against the neck and produces a vacuum leak.
Unless you deliberately place the crankcase under vacuum (some of us do), that line will not create a vacuum leak if it is left off.
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 08:53 AM
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Really?

I can hear the engine idle note/revs change when I pull off the oil cap while the engine is running, and the line is post MAF...
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 09:12 AM
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From: Under my car
There is no vacuum between the throttle and the air filter.
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
There is no vacuum between the throttle and the air filter.
But there is air flow between the filter and throttle, which is sensed by the MAF. If the oil cap is off, wouldn't air be drawn through the breather into the intake tube, downstream from the MAF, and not be sensed?
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 01:51 PM
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From: Under my car
Yes.
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