Okay guys, I was in the process of replacing my broken OMP lines and oil injectors when I ran into a problem. The last bolt to remove the UIM just snapped when loosening it. None of the others were extremely tight and they all came out no problem.

Okay so I grabbed the easy out kit, drilled a pilot hole on the remaining bolt. I put the easy out on the drill and started removing the bolt. It got about one turn and the easy out snapped (yes inside the stuck bolt).

I didn't panic, grabbed some titanium drill bits and went to town figuring I would just drill it out and retap it. Well two drilled later and I have made no progress. The bits do not do **** to the easy out that is stuck in the bolt.

I cannot remove the LIM without dropping the engine to get it on a drill press or to a machine shop. So my last resort if you guys so not have better advise is to just leave and RTV the **** out of it when I reinstall the UIM. Do you think it would leak?

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If you don't want to get it out properly...you might be able to use a small clamp on the flanges if it is the bolt I think it is

Dreaded easy outs...I hate them with a passion.....did you use a bit of heat and a ton of penetrating oil

 

I used penetrating oil but no heat. Of all the bolts I have taken off I never would have guessed one of these. Grungepup had made a comment about a clamp as well

Any idea on how to get it out properly without removing the LIM?

 

I feel your pain... at the same location the threads striped on mine and I had to drill/tap it out.
In your pic I can see the bottom of the bolt.
Any chance you can use locking pliers to grip it and turn it out from underneath (remove it from underneath that lip)?

 

Very difficult now..the easy out will have locked it in fairly good

This is a good example of why there need to be lube on the threads in a bi-metal connection...I always use a bit of oil or neversieze. Aluminum has a nasty habit of corroding

It is always stupid little things like this that make an easy job a bitch

Did you try and chip the easy out bit out so you can drill out the last of the bolt? The easy out is very hard metal...tool steel basically..so not fun to drill

You could always drill it out and re-tap it for a bit bigger bolt...

 

I tried need nose vise grips, just managed to pinch the **** out of my finger, that is about it

I totally agree, this bolt should not seize. I always respray bolts before I put them back in. I tried drilling it out but no matter what bit i try it does not grab and drill. Heck the drill bit doesn't even get hot after trying.

Any ideas on another bit to try?

 

I would try a very small chisel to try and get the broken end of the easy out to come out...

I have a drill that could work to get it out ...but getting the car in the chair could be a problem LOL...

If you can get a small diamond tipped bit..or even tungsten carbide..it will drill out if you are slow and careful...problem is the aluminum is very soft..so if you slide off the hard metal it will screw up the manifold quite fast. I managed to get an easy out removed from a master cylinder bleed screw that someone had broken an easy out off in ..but it took about an hour to do it

If you have a buddy that is a good TIG welder you could just cut it out...reweld the flange..and drill and tap the hole :

 

Good idea, I never thought of cutting it off and re-welding it.. I guess I will try to find a tungsten or diamond tipped bit first though.

 

Damn it, I hate when vice-grips get the finger! Argh!
Good luck...........I had nothing to offer earlier other that the vice-grip technique as it looked like you could get a hold of it at the bottom.
I was hoping Dan or Jon would stop by this thread.

hour long job becomes 2 day event with blood letting!
Been there...done that!

 

Look for a Dremel bit or a small die grinder bit
They tend to have the small sizes you will need

 

Maybe one of these could grab the bottom of that bolt?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=00934505000P


or

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2166000P?mv=rr

 

Carbide drill and a drill bushing to hold it in position.

 

Thanks guys! I also managed to break the little vacuum block that holds the vacuum hoses that open the oil injectors

 

That's easy I ordered a spare cause they break really easy..

I was thinking last night a good fix would be to carefully slot the flange where the broken bolt is...narrow as possible with a very thin cutoff wheel...and then carefully opening it up a slight amount with a pry tool to loosen the corrosion...then threading it out....
It should leave you with enough strength to put a bolt with a nut and a custom washer with a flat side on it so it will fit....

 

Fastest would be a carbide drill - run it slow as possible, plenty of pressure and with some lube (that's probably why your titanium coated ones died tbh)
Dremel with a silicon carbide stone on would probably be cheapest if you have one.

 

+1 a little oil based lube will help keep the heat under control and keep the carbide from cracking and chipping. Carbide is hard so it can cut titanium but that also makes it brittle.

 

Use a dremel with a small cutting or grinding wheel, carve a slot in the broken bolt end and then use a flat blade screwdriver bit on an impact driver tool with hammer the same way you remove rotor locating screws. You will likely slot the manifold surface too to get it deep enough, but it shouldn't hurt anything.

A carbide bit will cut it out, but you will acquire superman status if you can keep it centered by hand properly. Not going to happen without pulling the manifold and chucking it up in a bridgeport etc.

 

^+1

I've used the 'make it into a flathead' technique on an easy out I broke off before. Works very well.

 

Thanks, Great idea! I will try it!!

 

+1 to the slot method. i've used it on a broken exhaust manifold bolt.

 

I tried that same thing when I snapped the bolt at the same location... didn't work very well because I didn't have enough material left on the stud to apply much torque.
And you will end up cutting into the manifold, but like Team said, its not going to hurt anything.
Hopefully you'll have better luck than I.

 

Soak awhile in Blast penetrating oil. Then this requires alot of patience but does work lightly tapping with a hammer remembering that the easyout is reverse grip when you tap it on the edge in the opposite direction to get it to pop loose. Grinding a groove into the easyout might work too as mentioned using impact driver tool with a really good whack.

Once you have the easyout piece gone it's best to just buy a new drill and tap the proper size as the original bolt and don't worry if it's a little off center as that remaining piece of bolt will never come loose being eccentric a tad and the steel makes the thing alot stronger than the aluminum was. When drilling or tapping use cutting oil!!

Plan B is have a motorcycle mechanic get it out. Happens all the time on header bolts into the aluminum heads. Long live neversieze.

 

Update Scott?

 

Thats exactly what happened , But I actually thought it was going to work at first. Had I not mutilated a bit prior to trying this method it would have worked.

But anyway, I finished getting the injectors and lines all bolted up and used red loctite RTV to seal that area it sealed very well. I actually took the 8 on my road trip up to my parents place this morning and she is running like a top. I even loaded a new tune and my logs look great

But if you guys ever do a rebuild I highly suggest replacing all this stuff when the engine is out. I did n;t think of it when my last reman went in but had I thought of it i would have had them do it then.

Oh, and removing and reinstalling the intake with the BHR spacer is a F!@cking pain in the ***.

 

Okay, I am bumping this for ideas because under load I thin the UIM is leaking where this bolt should be despite using high temp RTV. I am getting intermittent power loss for a slight second at high RPMS and I reverted back to the stock tune and I am getting some lean codes but my data logs look good. It only does this here any there and it seems to be when I am going up hill (tested on high inclining highway overpass) near redline.

I have checked everything and this is the only thing I can think of and I would like to rule it out. I know removing the LIM and having it fixed by a machine shop is the best bet I would like some input aside from that as I do not want to remove the motor.