Who is screwing me? Emission harness mayhem
Hi All - this is my first post here, so I’ll start off with an apology up front. I'm coming to you all with a desperate need for assistance with an RX-8 situation. Wish I could have introduced myself under better circumstances...
Anyway... Here's my story (long version made short):
Background/history of vehicle: I own a 2004 manual Rx-8 with 86k miles on it. The car has had an unbelievable history of 'problems'. After a quick tally, just realized I've spent over $7200 since May of 2007 on keeping this thing running. This includes (but is not limited to) going to the shop 6 different times for idle problems. I've had the neutral switch replaced a couple of times, an SSV solenoid replaced (no idea what this is?), engine mounts replaced, the PCM replaced, and yes - even had the complete engine replaced (thank god this was under warranty).
Current Situation: On my way to work about a month ago, I experienced a quick blip of an idle problem at a stop light - rpms fluctuated wildly, then it stalled out. However, the car seemed to drive normally after I restarted it. Later that day, I went to start it up to head out for lunch - car immediately starting chugging badly - like not all plugs were firing. I immediately turned around, parked it, and let it sit. That evening - when I went to leave for the day, started the car up and seemed to run normally, so i started to drive it home. About half way there, it started chugging again - this time tho - it began smoking something fierce and ultimately lost all power. It deteriorated very quickly - went from just starting to chug to 'holy smokes this thing is gonna blow up' in just a mile or so. Had it towed home...
Next - i get it into the local mazda dealership. They tell me all 4 ignition coils failed, which resulted in raw fuel getting dumped into the cat converter, which in turn caught on fire, and melted a bunch of crap from that point back - including the emission wiring harness. I should note that it got so hot underneath that it actually melted a chunk of carpet on the passenger-side floor boards inside. The dealership wanted to charge me $4800 in repairs - i said no thanks...
Instead, I go to a small, reputable mechanic in the area. I give him the estimate from Mazda for what needs to be replaced (with the prices blacked out of course), and he quotes me something significantly cheaper. I give him the go ahead. He repairs all items that Mazda said was wrong, but afterwards, he tells me there is something else wrong. He says the car won't idle correctly/consistently - so he runs a compression test. He claims he has the proper mazda certified rotary engine compression tester deal - and he tells me that the compression on the engine is low - about half of what it should be - and that is most likely the problem.
Since the engine is under warranty still (to 100k), i take the car back to the mazda dealership thinking they'll replace the engine for me. Note: I drove the car there personally and verified the idle issues. Car is completely fine/normal under power, but it would in fact idle like crap. Sometimes it would idle fine for a minute or two, but other times it would stall out as soon as the rpms dropped after coming off power.
Mazda runs their own compression test, and they tell me that the compression is very good, that the fuel pressure is very good, and that they think the other mechanic installed the emission harness wrong. Mazda wants to charge me $700 just to inspect the emission harness. In fact, their written estimate says "suspected cross connection with emission harness. other repairs may be necessary, but we must start with the wiring harness first". I tried like hell to get them to put it in writing that they would NOT charge me the $700 if this action did not result in resolution of the problem, but they simply would not agree to do so.
Anyway - what do the experts think? Could a cross-connected emission harness really result in an inconsistent idle? Logic tells me that if something were truly cross connected, it run bad throughout the power band, not just at idle.
Someone is trying to screw me here - I just don't know who. My gut tells me that its the Mazda dealership - and that they are intent on getting me to pay them back for that "$4800" I took elsewhere...
Unfortunately, I don't know enough about cars to be able to figure it out myself - and I have no idea what to do... Should I trust the Mazda dealership? Is their claim reasonable? I just have this sinking feeling that If I give them $700 to 'inspect' the emissions harness, they are only going to come back to me and tell me something else is wrong - which I'm sure will cost me even more..
I would greatly appreciate everyone's feedback, guidance and suggestions.
Anyway... Here's my story (long version made short):
Background/history of vehicle: I own a 2004 manual Rx-8 with 86k miles on it. The car has had an unbelievable history of 'problems'. After a quick tally, just realized I've spent over $7200 since May of 2007 on keeping this thing running. This includes (but is not limited to) going to the shop 6 different times for idle problems. I've had the neutral switch replaced a couple of times, an SSV solenoid replaced (no idea what this is?), engine mounts replaced, the PCM replaced, and yes - even had the complete engine replaced (thank god this was under warranty).
Current Situation: On my way to work about a month ago, I experienced a quick blip of an idle problem at a stop light - rpms fluctuated wildly, then it stalled out. However, the car seemed to drive normally after I restarted it. Later that day, I went to start it up to head out for lunch - car immediately starting chugging badly - like not all plugs were firing. I immediately turned around, parked it, and let it sit. That evening - when I went to leave for the day, started the car up and seemed to run normally, so i started to drive it home. About half way there, it started chugging again - this time tho - it began smoking something fierce and ultimately lost all power. It deteriorated very quickly - went from just starting to chug to 'holy smokes this thing is gonna blow up' in just a mile or so. Had it towed home...
Next - i get it into the local mazda dealership. They tell me all 4 ignition coils failed, which resulted in raw fuel getting dumped into the cat converter, which in turn caught on fire, and melted a bunch of crap from that point back - including the emission wiring harness. I should note that it got so hot underneath that it actually melted a chunk of carpet on the passenger-side floor boards inside. The dealership wanted to charge me $4800 in repairs - i said no thanks...
Instead, I go to a small, reputable mechanic in the area. I give him the estimate from Mazda for what needs to be replaced (with the prices blacked out of course), and he quotes me something significantly cheaper. I give him the go ahead. He repairs all items that Mazda said was wrong, but afterwards, he tells me there is something else wrong. He says the car won't idle correctly/consistently - so he runs a compression test. He claims he has the proper mazda certified rotary engine compression tester deal - and he tells me that the compression on the engine is low - about half of what it should be - and that is most likely the problem.
Since the engine is under warranty still (to 100k), i take the car back to the mazda dealership thinking they'll replace the engine for me. Note: I drove the car there personally and verified the idle issues. Car is completely fine/normal under power, but it would in fact idle like crap. Sometimes it would idle fine for a minute or two, but other times it would stall out as soon as the rpms dropped after coming off power.
Mazda runs their own compression test, and they tell me that the compression is very good, that the fuel pressure is very good, and that they think the other mechanic installed the emission harness wrong. Mazda wants to charge me $700 just to inspect the emission harness. In fact, their written estimate says "suspected cross connection with emission harness. other repairs may be necessary, but we must start with the wiring harness first". I tried like hell to get them to put it in writing that they would NOT charge me the $700 if this action did not result in resolution of the problem, but they simply would not agree to do so.
Anyway - what do the experts think? Could a cross-connected emission harness really result in an inconsistent idle? Logic tells me that if something were truly cross connected, it run bad throughout the power band, not just at idle.
Someone is trying to screw me here - I just don't know who. My gut tells me that its the Mazda dealership - and that they are intent on getting me to pay them back for that "$4800" I took elsewhere...
Unfortunately, I don't know enough about cars to be able to figure it out myself - and I have no idea what to do... Should I trust the Mazda dealership? Is their claim reasonable? I just have this sinking feeling that If I give them $700 to 'inspect' the emissions harness, they are only going to come back to me and tell me something else is wrong - which I'm sure will cost me even more..
I would greatly appreciate everyone's feedback, guidance and suggestions.
trying to help.
can you post a list of what was replaced here.
you said raw fuel was being dumped int o the cat. was it replaced? the rear o2 sensor is behind the cat and if the cat was damaged from straight fuel being dumped into it you would get the same symptoms you are getting now.
give alittle more info about what was replaced and we (meaning some of the rotary geniuses around here) can help you out more.
sorry about your bad luck. these things happen with all cars sometimes, don't get discouraged. it will treat you right again soon.
can you post a list of what was replaced here.
you said raw fuel was being dumped int o the cat. was it replaced? the rear o2 sensor is behind the cat and if the cat was damaged from straight fuel being dumped into it you would get the same symptoms you are getting now.
give alittle more info about what was replaced and we (meaning some of the rotary geniuses around here) can help you out more.
sorry about your bad luck. these things happen with all cars sometimes, don't get discouraged. it will treat you right again soon.
Hi! thanks for the response - i certainly appreciate your help! Here's a complete list of what was replaced by the smaller mechanic:
- 4 ignition coils
- 2 6700 spark plugs
- 2 6701 spark plugs
- Ignition wire set
- Oxygen Sensor
- Emission Wiring Harness
- Cat. Converter
- Neutral transmission switch
- 4 ignition coils
- 2 6700 spark plugs
- 2 6701 spark plugs
- Ignition wire set
- Oxygen Sensor
- Emission Wiring Harness
- Cat. Converter
- Neutral transmission switch
Just an update - I called the small independent mechanic this afternoon and told him what the Mazda Dealership had to say. He laughed (somewhat angrily) - and told me that what the dealership is claiming as the problem really isn't possible, and that they are doing nothing but blowing smoke up my ****.
He said that if wires were cross connected in the emission wiring harness, the following would happen:
-engine light would be on (which it is not)
-computer would return all kinds of error codes (which he says it returns no error codes)
-car would fail computer diagnostic checks (which he said it passes all diagnostic tests)
-car likley would not run well under power either (which it does)
Do you all think that what the smaller, independent mechanic is telling is legitimate? It sure feels like it is...
Thanks for taking the time to read all this mess!
He said that if wires were cross connected in the emission wiring harness, the following would happen:
-engine light would be on (which it is not)
-computer would return all kinds of error codes (which he says it returns no error codes)
-car would fail computer diagnostic checks (which he said it passes all diagnostic tests)
-car likley would not run well under power either (which it does)
Do you all think that what the smaller, independent mechanic is telling is legitimate? It sure feels like it is...
Thanks for taking the time to read all this mess!
sounds like your mechanic is right. but he needs to account for the proper rpm condition. the values of compression are variable along a curve depending on the rpm the test was done at.
see this thread https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/failing-compression-isnt-only-test-your-engine-needs-fail-194710/ there is a graph in it somewhere. ask your mechanic for the compression values and the rpm of the test. it is difficult to get the starter to get exactly 250 rpm's so there is a curve that shows given values for reference. ask your mechanic to see the compression numbers and to tell you EXACTLY what rpm the test was done at. should be like 196-211 something like that. it's never exactly 250
see this thread https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/failing-compression-isnt-only-test-your-engine-needs-fail-194710/ there is a graph in it somewhere. ask your mechanic for the compression values and the rpm of the test. it is difficult to get the starter to get exactly 250 rpm's so there is a curve that shows given values for reference. ask your mechanic to see the compression numbers and to tell you EXACTLY what rpm the test was done at. should be like 196-211 something like that. it's never exactly 250
actually they can .
the engine was replaced previously indicating that the ct could have been on its way out already. they didnt change the coils when the engine was replaced either. so the coils are shot the cars doesnt fire properly fuel gets sent to the hot cat- he keeps trying to go- the cat over heats fails and burns the harness . the heat from cat and harness scorch the carpet inside.
there could be any number of reasons the car wont idle. maybe the maf is dirty or bad. maybe the neutral switch is bad again maybe the plugs are dirty maybe the wires need replaced.....
his compression numbers could be because the engine was still oil poor from the flooding caused by the failure of the coils.
the engine was replaced previously indicating that the ct could have been on its way out already. they didnt change the coils when the engine was replaced either. so the coils are shot the cars doesnt fire properly fuel gets sent to the hot cat- he keeps trying to go- the cat over heats fails and burns the harness . the heat from cat and harness scorch the carpet inside.
there could be any number of reasons the car wont idle. maybe the maf is dirty or bad. maybe the neutral switch is bad again maybe the plugs are dirty maybe the wires need replaced.....
his compression numbers could be because the engine was still oil poor from the flooding caused by the failure of the coils.
I still call shennanigans on all 4 coils going bad at once. The car suddenly develops an idle problem which progresses rapidly. So, the coils were ok, and all failed on the same day? 6 Previous service visits for poor idle. The dealer could be right but they'd be bucking a trend.
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