Little issue with sound system
Hey guys,
I recently purchased 2 10" JL Audio W6v2 and 1 Alpine PDX1.1000 amplifier. Also bought all the wires to go with it. I'm only missing a capacitor, which I will probably get next pay. I even went to get a Yellow Top battery.
So me and my friend built the box, put on some back plates and connected the subs. For the amp install, I went to futureshop (its like circuit city for you guys, but they are still in business :P) since I had to go through the rear speakers. An hour an a half later, we test it out. Everything seems to be working, except the right sub, that is putting out less power. He told me to check the connection, which I did the next day and noticed I had hooked up the positive on the negative, and the negative on the positive. Woops.. When I hooked it back to + + and - -, thats when I started having issues. It was working for a bit, but yesterday the amplifier would just not turn on. We checked every connections, and even re-did the connections. That's when I decided to buy a new battery. I knew I would have to get one anyways.
So we replaced the battery, and the amp will still not turn on. Checked the fuses, they dont look blown. What i'm thinking, is that the guy at FS connected the remote wire on the cigarette lighter fuse (weird, I know). I will go back to them and get him to install it somewhere else (like, actually behind the cigarette lighter). I'll also get him to install a killswitch.
Anyone has any ideas what's going on? I'm hoping to god I didnt blow the amp, I dont think it would be covered. Any help is appreciated.
-Terry
UPDATE: I bought a killswitch and extra AUX wire, which I will just hook on directly to the battery and use the switch to turn it off when I turn off the car.
I recently purchased 2 10" JL Audio W6v2 and 1 Alpine PDX1.1000 amplifier. Also bought all the wires to go with it. I'm only missing a capacitor, which I will probably get next pay. I even went to get a Yellow Top battery.
So me and my friend built the box, put on some back plates and connected the subs. For the amp install, I went to futureshop (its like circuit city for you guys, but they are still in business :P) since I had to go through the rear speakers. An hour an a half later, we test it out. Everything seems to be working, except the right sub, that is putting out less power. He told me to check the connection, which I did the next day and noticed I had hooked up the positive on the negative, and the negative on the positive. Woops.. When I hooked it back to + + and - -, thats when I started having issues. It was working for a bit, but yesterday the amplifier would just not turn on. We checked every connections, and even re-did the connections. That's when I decided to buy a new battery. I knew I would have to get one anyways.
So we replaced the battery, and the amp will still not turn on. Checked the fuses, they dont look blown. What i'm thinking, is that the guy at FS connected the remote wire on the cigarette lighter fuse (weird, I know). I will go back to them and get him to install it somewhere else (like, actually behind the cigarette lighter). I'll also get him to install a killswitch.
Anyone has any ideas what's going on? I'm hoping to god I didnt blow the amp, I dont think it would be covered. Any help is appreciated.
-Terry
UPDATE: I bought a killswitch and extra AUX wire, which I will just hook on directly to the battery and use the switch to turn it off when I turn off the car.
Add me to msn, forbidden@telus.net and I will see what I can do for you for you. I am actually working on a 8 today here in my bay.
Hey man.. I have the same amp it KICKS ***!
anyways yeah the remote SHOULD be hooked up to the green wire of the rear cigarette lighter... that does turn on and off with the car
and the amp has 3 fuses - make sure you pull a 3 and check them.. I would also check the fuse that the cigarette lighter uses under the trunk button in the driver side dash
Don"t bother with a kill switch system idea.. thats just asking to get forgotten about once and killing your battery..
anyways yeah the remote SHOULD be hooked up to the green wire of the rear cigarette lighter... that does turn on and off with the car
and the amp has 3 fuses - make sure you pull a 3 and check them.. I would also check the fuse that the cigarette lighter uses under the trunk button in the driver side dash
Don"t bother with a kill switch system idea.. thats just asking to get forgotten about once and killing your battery..

Also with your particular subwoofers (The JL 10W6-D4's) you should have them wired like this:

If you have them wired any other way, it is incorrect. All +'s together and all -'s together will present the amp with a 1 ohm load. The owners manual does not list specs down to 1 ohm, which usually means it is not stable to this impedance. The amp will kick in and out of protection or may refuse to play at all. And with that particular amp, you get the same power output at 4 ohms (pictured above) versus the 1 ohm load you may have now anyway. Zero advantages to running at 1 ohm.
Lastly, use a multimeter at the amp's power terminals. Flip the car on and start playing music. Ensure you have at least +12V on both the remote connection and the connection from the battery. If you do, move forward. If not, fix it. Next try disconnecting the RCA cables FROM THE LINE OUTPUT CONVERTER. With the music playing, rub your fingers across the RCA tips/barrels. This will usually send noise through the RCAs and hopefully through your amp and to the subs. If the subs respond to this, you have no signal coming from the LOC. If they don't, your problem is downstream from the RCA connections..
Take it back to the shop. They did the work, it's their job to figure it out.
Hey man.. I have the same amp it KICKS ***!
anyways yeah the remote SHOULD be hooked up to the green wire of the rear cigarette lighter... that does turn on and off with the car
and the amp has 3 fuses - make sure you pull a 3 and check them.. I would also check the fuse that the cigarette lighter uses under the trunk button in the driver side dash
Don"t bother with a kill switch system idea.. thats just asking to get forgotten about once and killing your battery..
anyways yeah the remote SHOULD be hooked up to the green wire of the rear cigarette lighter... that does turn on and off with the car
and the amp has 3 fuses - make sure you pull a 3 and check them.. I would also check the fuse that the cigarette lighter uses under the trunk button in the driver side dash
Don"t bother with a kill switch system idea.. thats just asking to get forgotten about once and killing your battery..

Also with your particular subwoofers (The JL 10W6-D4's) you should have them wired like this:

If you have them wired any other way, it is incorrect. All +'s together and all -'s together will present the amp with a 1 ohm load. The owners manual does not list specs down to 1 ohm, which usually means it is not stable to this impedance. The amp will kick in and out of protection or may refuse to play at all. And with that particular amp, you get the same power output at 4 ohms (pictured above) versus the 1 ohm load you may have now anyway. Zero advantages to running at 1 ohm.
Lastly, use a multimeter at the amp's power terminals. Flip the car on and start playing music. Ensure you have at least +12V on both the remote connection and the connection from the battery. If you do, move forward. If not, fix it. Next try disconnecting the RCA cables FROM THE LINE OUTPUT CONVERTER. With the music playing, rub your fingers across the RCA tips/barrels. This will usually send noise through the RCAs and hopefully through your amp and to the subs. If the subs respond to this, you have no signal coming from the LOC. If they don't, your problem is downstream from the RCA connections..
Take it back to the shop. They did the work, it's their job to figure it out.
I know, my friend has the same one and its amazing. The amp has 4 fuses actually :P. I like the killswitch idea. You know, in the case where the subs cut due to too much power, hit the switch and its back on
Its a digital amp though, and they worked before. Do I still need to connect it that way?
Its a digital amp though, and they worked before. Do I still need to connect it that way?
and yes, you should hook them up like that.
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