I have a 2006 Shinka with the advanced keyless entry. However the other day it seems to have stopped working. I no longer can use the request buttons on the door handles or the trunk to gain access to my vehicle. Although, when I push the unlock or lock buttons on my actual key it does unlock or lock the vehicle. Starting the vehicle is also not a problem as it starts without having to use the auxillary key. The only problem that worries me is that the Red "KEY" light is on in the dash. Now I replaced the batteries and that had no effect on it. Also for the entire time i've owned the car the "KEY" light has never ever flashed or illuminated green as is stated in the manual. Wich leads me to believe that since it was one of mazda's first "AKE" cars they failed to put a green light in the guage cluster or something to that avail. The dealership is also a problem, as I can not get my car in for a week and a half. Also, after driving about an hour on the highway at 75 to 80 mph consistently, when I come to a stop and my engine is idling I hear a loud clicking or ticking noise coming from under the hood. It almost sounds to me like ticking valves on a cylinder engine. I know that there are no valves on the rotary and the noise is somewhat bothersome and worrisome. I mean it sounds like a POS. The car has 24K miles on it and I take really good care of it, Oil is changed every 3K. I did read my car for any codes and there are none, completely clear. So I have no idea what the key problem is and have no idea what is causing the noise under the hood. Any thoughts are resolutions to this will be greatly appreciated.

 

Close your trunk

 

Did you try the second key? Same issues?

 

The one thing that could be making a clicking noise after a good highway run is one of the cooling fans.......

Next time it starts to click, try adjusting the aircon system to Max or put the heater on full, see if the noises stop when the fan stops. Check whether the noise stops after the fan has cooled off the coolant enough, and stopped rotating.


S

 

Tried both keys, doesn't seem to matter. And yes the trunk is closed (i'm not an idiot)thanks for the constructive advice. I will try the listening to the fan's and see if it happens only when they kick on. Other than that I'm at a loss as to what is causing the key malfunction besides maybe a short in one fo the signal receivers.

 

Keyless...sorry no help after reading what you wrote.

Clicking.............could this simply be your eexhaust cooilng back down? I mean after you run the car hard and then shut it off(I know you said at a light but), you can hear this clicking. I would go run it fairly hard for awhile, come home, shut it off and see if you hear it then and see if it's the same you heard before. This way you can walk around the car and listen.

 

i'm with devilboi.. open and close your trunk

 

It's not exhaust related, sound goes away when shut off. I have found if I rev it up to about 3k while in neutral sound goes away.

Also as far as keys go, opening and closing the trunk does not resolve anything. The best way to describe it would be that all of the request buttons on the car are dead. Not working. They won't even be decent enough to give a little beep when pushed. I guess I'll find out on the 25th what the problem is, that is if the dealer can fix it.

 

Just trying to help. Do a search on "marbles in the can" and see if this is what you are experiencing in terms of noise. There are some threads that have sounds captured.

 

Took my car to the dealership today and here is what the results are.

The kelyess entry problem is a result of two faulty antennas, they have to replace both the trunk sensor antenna and the drivers side antenna. However they have to order the parts so I won't know for sure if that is the problem until they actually replace them.

The clicking sound coming from the engine they say is the result of the purge valve being open in cold weather. I'm not an expert, but I'm not an idiot either. What does cold weather have to do with a purge valve? If someone could explain it to me so that I understand it would be greatly appreciated.

Also on another side note, they have to perform the tail-light gasket fix for the umteenth time cuz it still leaks and condenses.

 

I'm having the exact same problem with the advanced keyless on my '06 Shinka. Guess I'll have to take it to the dealer. At least it's under warranty.

 

My 06 Shinka cam eup with the red KEY light today. I'll try my trunk this evening. Guess I'll probably have to schedule an app with the dealer. Great more time lost from work.

 

I'm in the same boat...the antennae were ordered and I'm just waiting for them to come in.

 

Update: Got my car back today and the keyless system is working again. They also programmed it so that the doors lock when I walk away from the car. I always wanted that done.

 

Mine must have been a glitch, came out the next morning with my other key and it was working fine. Took the 2nd key back in the house came out with my original key and it's worked fine ever since. weird.

 

^^^That's how mine started. At first it wouldn't work. Then it'd 'fix' itself and it would start working again. Rinse and repeat until it completely failed.

I did notice one thing though when my problem started occurring. When I would start the car, it would beep as if I walked out of the car with the key. *beep beep* *beep beep* *beep beep*

 

Mine mysteriously started working again as soon as the weather got a little warmer. I'm suspicious of it, but I guess I'll wait for it to break again before bringing it in.

 

Same problem with my 2006 Shinka?! What did it cost to repair?

 

I think it was under warranty, for him.

I'm having a same issue. The keys, both of them, barely work. Hell, the trunk button doesn't work period.

 

I have a 2007 w/ AKE. Same problems people were describing... red KEY light on dash, non-functioning door and trunk access request buttons, but able to lock/unlock with the buttons on the fob and start without using the aux key.

Antenna behind the rear bumper cover was faulty. On a 2007 you can get to the connector by popping out the license plate lamp. Metered it and it was showing open.

Dealer wanted $320 for the replacement part, found it online but still at $260. Requires removal of the rear bumper.

I simply bypassed the rear antenna. Cut the leads and put a resistor in the connector to the body harness. Cutting the leads you could see oxidation on the copper wire all the way down to the connector. Looks like they didn't seal the leads where they go into the antenna.

Works fine now, but the range on the trunk request is pretty much non-existant (since there's no exterior antenna at the rear now).

 

What resistor did you use?

 

I don't remember the exact value, but it was pretty low. On the order of 10 ohms.

I just grabbed a handful at work and worked my way down from around 10K okm until it worked consistently.

 

I am having the same issues with the outside buttons not working. I might have to try this trick

 

Drive without advance remote

 

I have the same issues for a while with the keyless entry. Has anyone tried to use antenna types other than the FE95-67-6N0C? This is the only one that is most expensive. However, if simply a resistor can fool the system for completeness, can swapping the antenna with other type work. I am aware of the connectors being different. However, connectors can be swapped out to generic ones.
I would greatly appreciate inputs.