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misfire...after coils and plugs changed.

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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 10:55 AM
  #1  
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Reginald P. Billingsly
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misfire...after coils and plugs changed.

Changed plugs and coils Thursday last week, car ran loads better, got home last night reved her up and cel flashed and then went solid...wtf is going on. Flamers go ahead, right now I just don't care, just hope someone will take pitty on me and help.

Thanks.
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 10:56 AM
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Did you double check all of the connections?

Re torque the plugs?
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 11:01 AM
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MAke SURE your plugs aint too loose or too tight.

usually I do it like this, hand torque it all the way to the end, then get the Plug socket out and give it an extra 1/2 circle turn.

my plugs work for 10K miles already

Lets not forget, You might want to reset the ECU, especially after those stuff has been changed.

and, misfire happens. rapid acceleration and deceleration might trigger it too.

Last edited by nycgps; Jan 15, 2008 at 11:03 AM.
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 11:02 AM
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Reginald P. Billingsly
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That's what I thought so I did that last night, seems to run fine though other than a little and mean a little sputtering above 7000 rpm.
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by bose
That's what I thought so I did that last night, seems to run fine though other than a little and mean a little sputtering above 7000 rpm.
if its really minor then u' should be fine.

but if you can feel that it *chokes*, something is not moving smoothly. at least now my engine never choke, all the way to 9 K baby !

What you can do is throw a bottle of GOOD complete fuel system cleaner like redline into your tank. And run your car HARD, rapid accelerate and decelerate around the rpm range.

it helped me, so it might help you.
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 11:23 AM
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Be absolutely certain that none of the plug wires are touching each other (not to mention that they are attached to the correct plugs).
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 11:44 AM
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Should also change out the plug cables. Stock cables are notorious for becoming electrically porus over time, causing crossfire/misfire. The new coils and plugs are only as good as the electrical conveyance between them.
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 11:49 AM
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Make sure that the connectors are fully seated on the plugs.

A full connection is one where the plug boot completely covers all of the ribs on the side of the plug.
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 12:22 PM
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Reginald P. Billingsly
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I will try these things and let you know what I find. Thank you.
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 01:15 PM
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I'm leaning towards the cables not being attached properly OR possibly being hooked in wrong. (simple error, could happen to anyone)

I know when I installed my Racing beat wires, those S.O.B's were pretty tough to get properly attached.
Good luck, hope it ends up being something simple
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 01:56 PM
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Yep, try the simple first. But, if you went the expense of new coils and plugs, you should also go new cables.
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 03:35 PM
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Reginald P. Billingsly
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^^agreed I'm for not doing them, ordering new wires today.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 01:32 PM
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Reginald P. Billingsly
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took car to bountiful mazda here and they say bad coils...bulshit and low compression on both housing. NO WARRANTY due to intake/exhaust. calling MNAO to find out what to do, any tips?
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 01:35 PM
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They have to prove the mods voided the warranty - not the other way around; might want to remind them of that...
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 03:20 PM
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Reginald P. Billingsly
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I told then to provide it in writing how my intake and exhaust blew the compression on my engine, and he said they don't have to, it's up to me to prove my parts didn't do it. So when I get my car back today I am gonna shove the Magnuson Moss Act up his ***.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bose
I told then to provide it in writing how my intake and exhaust blew the compression on my engine, and he said they don't have to, it's up to me to prove my parts didn't do it. So when I get my car back today I am gonna shove the Magnuson Moss Act up his ***.
Keep us updated.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bose
I told then to provide it in writing how my intake and exhaust blew the compression on my engine, and he said they don't have to, it's up to me to prove my parts didn't do it. So when I get my car back today I am gonna shove the Magnuson Moss Act up his ***.
lol

We have to prove it? shove that Magnuson Moss act up to his *** !

Seriously speaking, intakes I understand, but CAT back !?!? Come the hell on. Why dont they blame the roads ? blame the weather ? hell blame god for giving humans so many problems !

Its just sad that they keep paying minimum wage, all they can hire are ppl cant even finish their Junior high school.

Im with u bose, if u're in nyc or anywhere near, I will even go with you just to **** them off. jeeze
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 10:16 AM
  #18  
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Great...bountiful mazda is my dealer too...makes me real confident....

Good luck with that! I hope they do you right on this!
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 10:18 AM
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Reginald P. Billingsly
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Get this, so I picked up my car and the service manager said, "As far as what caused the problem, who knows but the fact that you have modded the car means you accept libility for anything that happens, it's in your warranty book." the warranty book says nothing NOTHING about aftermarket parts voiding the warranty. It only says somthing to the effect of, you may find parts that will fit your vehicle Mazda does not approved these parts and they will not be covered. the fine print disclaimer say the do not accept liability for any injury death or expenses that result from the installation of these parts. That right there says it has to proven that my parts caused the problem, but if they wanna play games I'm calling AEM and greddy today to see if I can get a letter from them stating thier parts do not adversly affect my engine. I wonder what they will say if I can prove my parts didn't do it.
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 10:21 AM
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I think you are doing it all wrong - just get a copy of the Mag Act; and tell the service manager who is not sure what is wrong - that his "unsureness" just got you a new engine.
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 11:03 AM
  #21  
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hey, have you done a compression check (for real)? what are the numbers?

I know you say the dealer said you had no compression but that could be BS.

I wouldn't say your engine is dead until you have at least that much info in hand.

Have you confirmed X-times that you did re-wire the coils and plugs correctly? (coil side harnesses and plug wires)
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 11:02 AM
  #22  
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Reginald P. Billingsly
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From: Taylorsville, UT
The numbers are definatly low I had another dealer verify the compression, both rotors, numbers were almost identical, 6.3, 6.4, 6.7. somthing like that I don't have the paper in front of me.

Kane your right I fell like I have. Today I'm going back to the dealership to speak with the owner/gm, with a copy of the act, and just state 'hey, these are my rights you have to do this or we go to court. plain and simple.'
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 11:08 AM
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From: PCB
Sounds good - be nice; since no one likes a jackass; but the rules are pretty clear cut.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 11:52 AM
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Hey Bose did your car make a deep tone and then stall or did the cel light just flash, stay on and your car still ran? I think I have the same problem, I also pulled the codes I had 2 running too lean codes and misfire on cylinder 2. I am still tryin to figure out what is wrg with mine....good luck buddy
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 12:25 PM
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Reginald P. Billingsly
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From: Taylorsville, UT
I agree the law is pretty clear where reponsibility lies.

But to answer your question. I have exhaust so it's always deep, but it wasn't any deeper than normal, she's never stalled, I was parked rev'ed it up and the light flashed 8-10 times then solid, she has run the same since I got her before the cel and after the cel came along, it feels the same. All I can say if I learned anything from this is if your taking it to the dealer, unless you have a mod friendly service manager, you need to put the stock parts in, it's not worth the hassle of being denied.
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