seems like a pita. i suggest bubble gum and duct tape or just give me your headache lol. gl man

 

Really is, having to wiggle around someone's half assed design has cost me probably an extra 5k for this car that has just been thrown out.

IMO there is two ways to go for the Rx8 fuel system upgrade:

1. Modify the stock hanger assembly for a 300lph pump. Feed this to a surge tank in the trunk. Wiring basically stays untouched.
2. If you dont want gas/surge tank in your trunk you need to do a full custom in-tank design. I may theorize this, but so far it would be a dual pump hanger with holley hydramats on each side not needing a siphon.

 

This was one of the original reasons I installed true bulkheads into my JDL tank. I also swapped those for some delrin style sealing rings.

Obviously haven't gotten to use it yet but happy to sell it to you so that you don't have to keep dealing with issues.

Now I have to hope my radium fuel cell in the trunk doesn't have these issues.

 

Nah for now I am just gonna run with it before I make my own.

This is my basic concept for my own design. I just gotta check with the holley hydramats to see whether they prefer to connect to each other in series or parallel.

 

Well I was able to fill the gas tank last night. Although I REALLY don't like that those passthrough stud connectors JDL used are basically floating on an oring. Any bump or vibration could move or turn those ringlugs over time. I cant say that something shorting out at the top of the fuel tank full of vapor is a good idea.

 

First Tuned by Shawn session went very well. He basically completely replaced my VE, IGN, and Fuel maps along with tweaking alot of injector and throttle settings. It feels like a completely different car now. My throttle response is a hell of alot better, but still feels like there is a momentary hangup. He did say that I need to put about 400 miles of learning with light 2.5psi of boost, basically daily drive it for tuning. What is funny is that the adaptronic drove the car VERY well. So whatever shawn did was able to get me back to that state except with better cranking maps. The map I made before for the haltech grabbed as much as I could from the adaptronic, but I was definitely missing something.

Now I really need to think about wheels and tires again. Also an alignment is very much needed, because my toe is not right at all.

I still have not figured out what I want to do for gauges either.

• A haltech CAN gauge is going to be like 500$ by the end of it.
• My other thought was to do one of the digital dash units which can have my full gauge setup. https://racingdisplay.com/products/m...44379639742621
• Another possibility is getting an android auto headunit placed in one of the NAV rx8 flip up units using the TORQUE app which can read OBD and show gauges for my temps there. I may just skip this idea for the reason of future-ability. Chances are the app or headunit could update and brick itself in some stupid way.
• Or find some other cheaper gauge setup. I really dont want to add more sensors in places, which points me back towards the haltech setups.

For gauges with needing only two-3 variables I think I can probably get away with just one or two CAN gauges. Its just a real shame mazda didn't give us real dash gauges.

• Boost (post throttlebody pressure)
• AFR
• Fuel pressure (do I really need a guage for this, chances are if this goes the engine goes)
• Oil temp
• Oil pressure (my dash shows the rx8 oil pressure switch like stock, so do I really care about this? As far as I know, if I lose pressure its already too late.)
• Coolant temp (shown on Davies Craig)
• Battery voltage (shown on Davies Craig and Radar detector)

 

Small freakout, I was seeing smoke coming out of the turbo area with an electronic burning smell. Turns out it was just a tiny stream of coolant pissing out of the heatercore tube that wasn't tight enough. So I swapped out the hose clamp for a smaller one. It was strange because it really didn't smell like burning coolant.

My other soon to be annoying issue is my remoteless key doesnt seem to work. Even in program mode it doesnt seem to pick it up. I swapped out the batteries with my other car's remote so I am fairly certain it has something to do with the module, wiring, or maybe haltech in some way. I didnt think the ECU talked with the keyless module though.

 

Have you seen the gauge cluster I installed? It's definitely cheaper than a new can gauge.
Here is the link of what I used but he has other options as well. Basically you attach a little screen that connects to your CANbus from the Haltech. I did lose my cruise control gauge and operation but I really don't use cruise control very much so I don't mind.

RX8 Cluster Gauge Kit – Rotarytronics

Search Results for “rx8” – Rotarytronics

 

That's an interesting option. Can it pull from OBD for data though? My problem is that I already have the sensors going to the haltech so I dont need more. Probably why I am leaning towards the haltech 10in dash replacement entirely. Just to be done with it and not fiddle with more stuff.

EDIT: It apparently can pull from the haltech.

EDIT EDIT: I spent more money today

 

Ok so alignment scheduled, rotarytronics gauge ordered

Now my next two focusses are why the remoteless key module is not seeing the remotes.

Also on my dash, the ambient air temp says -- Which I assume means the sensor is not plugged in. Google, forums, and reddit are all over the place here. One guy shows diagrams pointing at a sensor connector down near the driver oil cooler which doesnt exist as far as I know(maybe the wiring is just longer and reaches >>. Another reddit thread has a guy saying it is the module under the front crash bar.....which as far as I can tell looks like a front airbag sensor(I have this removed right now because i have no crash bar yet). Then other people were saying it is the bubble thing in the dash which I doubt.



This seems to be my culprit which looks like a crash sensor, but mazda websites list this part number as the ambient air temp sensor.

 

@Zapped01 your post was removed as it was not relevant to this thread.
please post in the appropriate sub-category

now back to our regularly scheduled programming.

 

If it didnt involve wasting money, get it out of here

 

Been driving great all week, my local old town garage was able to help me do an alignment. They even let me keep my camber and caster settings and set the toe to those. Which should help me check fitment for wheels later on. I do see that I need to get an aftermarket radio, probably going to do something similar to this setup below. With the monosports it is stiff enough my CD is skipping back and forth on bumps. Also did my first gas stop since i've owned the car for half a decade. Really only had one leak so far with my heatercore hose into the turbo, my hose clamp was just too large to hold pressure.

 

Yes, there is an ambient air temp sensor near the front crash bar on the driver side (left side) of the car.

Also third option for fuel is to modify the S1 basket for a Walbro 450 and a return. Mine still working flawlessly at 14psi on my EFR 9174, but I never intend to run Ethanol so. I am almost done wrapping up a string of improvement mods after finally driving my car hard for a season, one of them being wiring my boost control solenoid to the ECU so I can bump up to 16 or 17psi (which will be my limit on 93 pump gas only) and hold pressure all the way through my rpm range, currently it peaks at 14psi then falls to about 11 or 12 psi by 8300.

 

Can anyone guess what is leaking again?.................. Well time to modify the fuel hanger. I think what I am going to do is machine out a large hole, Weld a plate, and then put an actual fuel tank bulkhead connector. I know racetronix makes a 6 pin 30A connector, sadly its out of stock right now. https://www.racetronix.biz/p/fuel-ta...ung-bcapx28wal

I found my ambient air temp sensor and it now works again

I also think the exhaust is too loud and just at the point of having drone. Which I made a custom catback that splits from 3in to two 2.5in hks hipower mufflers. I think I have a turboXS catback on the other car, so I am going to start cannibalizing that car and probably scrap it.

The tein monosports are driving well and honestly are not too bad, but they are certainly stiff when you hit bumps and can make the car hop. Honestly I would probably go back to the FlexZs, but I also would like to get a track or autocross day in before making that decision.

Im waiting on rotarytronics ciprian's CAN gauge panel. I have also wired up my AEM boost gauge, but I am not sure I am going to stick with it. If I canabalize the other car I could use the greddy profec which shows a boost curve. Except I would rather a red LED profec instead of the blue.

I spent a good hour or so tuning the Rx8 throttlebody on the haltech. Before it was 0%pedal=0%throttle and 100%=100%. Now I am creating a deadzone curve at the start. This has basically eliminated all the start/stop stoplight jerkyness. I might add more cells in the low end so it is more of a curve. Here is my current cells below though.
0=0
10%=5%
20%=10%
90% = 100%
100%=100%

 

I'm sure I will do this to my JDL surge tank at some point. So far I've been able to control the leaking of mine but have not checked it in a little bit. Probably should. I found this 6 point weld in with a google search. I'm not sure if the seal is E85 compatible. Thanks for posting the link.

Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Bulkhead Connector Kits » Weld-in Type Fuel Bulkhead Kit

 

Looks like they are using the exact same everything as the racetronix so it would be e85 compatible. It also does mention flex fuel, gasoline, and methanol orings. That is a good find. I think they are just selling a different aluminum weld on ring tbh.

I placed an order for that one.

 

Started at modifying the JDL unit. Still have to weld and fill some things, but it mostly fits. The connector is slightly too tall though so I will have to modify my rear seat bulkhead a little and maybe the rear seat cushion. If I was to do this again I would definitely just buy an aluminum disc and do two simple AN bulkhead fittings with this connector.

Also picked up a new atoto Excel 9" radio which fits perfectly into the sat nav dash piece. Trying to mimic the newer mazda floating screen design.

 

I'm halfway through my radio build. Hopefully finish it up this weekend or early next week.

I have the updated fuel hanger all ready to drop in. Just need to wire up the car side of things. Trying the bulkhead connector this time around and also swapped my hose clamps to pure stainless ones, the other ones that came with my hoses had zinc plated housings and were already corroding in funky ways. Also swapped all my orings out to viton from the supplied nitrile.

Again honestly I should have just made my own bulkhead plate with a simple feed/return setup and this bulkhead connector. I'd probably mount the pumps on an L shaped bracket horizontally in the tank and then manifold off to a fuel mat.

EDIT: Got the assembly in and running last night, so far no leaks in the lines. Gotta wait to fill it up though.

 

Well the radio is going mostly well. All wired up, except there is no audio. This atoto radio has both the basic wire connections and also has RCA audio output wires. I am wondering if the audio is being sent out the RCA connectors instead. I'll have to try an RCA speaker tomorrow. This radio is pretty crazy high def compared to anything I have had before. Also seems like I can install practically any android app like torque for obd gauges......or even videogame emulators. One of my favourite memories as a kid that got me into cars was playing Need for Speed on gamecube in my uncle's show car at the world of wheels events.

The metra kit has a couple of wires that are simply not mentioned in the instructions. So I am waiting to hear back from them. They also sell a steeringwheel control device....but there's no instructions for it which is annoying.