Late today I started my 20,000 KM Service (12,000 miles), I have done 20,250 KMS.

Have not finished the job as I started late today...

I changed all Differential and Transmission Fluids along with Engine Oil, Filter and for the First Time, I decided to Check the Spark Plugs and on inspection replaced them.

I use Redline drive train Fluids.

The Diff, 75W90 Normally Gold when new was a dirty grey and smelt like cats spew.
MT90 for the Box, old oil was a maroon color instead of Red.. looked in reasonable shape.

The normal magnetic drain plugs had metal particles attatched...cleaned them off and renewed the Oils.

I took the Spark Plugs out after removing the front LH Tyre (tire), doing a rotation also.

BOY these plugs were not in very tight at all, I was really surprised how little strength was needed to loosen them.

I think one of the Leading Plugs was a little too loose as there was a little Oil Film on 50% of the plug crush washer, none of the other 3 had this oil film.

Anyway,their condition...what do you think???..

IMO Pretty much as I expected, not a lot of Black Soot, and some of the Brown came off every easily with my finger nail ( I only scrapped a few sections of the Leading Plug to show you as is.

Remember I also pre-mix with Amsoil Saber Pro..6-8 oz a tank of Premium Gas.

What I did notice as the miles were adding up was the odd miss or fluff during Idle or warm up..this has completely gone with the new Spark Plugs...smooth as silk.

Tomorrow I will flush and change out the Hydraulic Fluids as I have Speed Bleeders already installed, check out the Air Filter Element...not anticipating to replace it, But have a spare if needed.

 

To tell you the truth your plugs look worst than mine do at 25k mile change and I have the MS coil set up!!!
You said check out the air filter element but I dont see a pic???
How is the MT90 in the gear box? I think its kinda hard to shift when its like 30 out but when the car is warmed up its great.

 

did those plugs really need to be replaced or did you just decide to change them anyway?

 

can I ask what type of motor oil you use and did you replace the spark plugs with the OEM ones? Do you know anything about if the BHR spark plug upgrade will work for series II?

 

Omg now I think I may need to change mine! Haha I'm at 25k miles

 

Ash: those don't look bad at all to be honest. I change mine out every 15k or so anyways but I've seen much worse.

 

No they did not really need replacing, you are supposed to get 60,000 KMS or 36,000 Miles out of set...so really mine have only had a third of their 'suggested life'.

If I can find someone with a plug cleaner I will clean them and keep.

I have 2 sets in stock, so I decided to renew them.

Remember a rotary plugs works 3 times harder than most spark plugs.

 

Castrol GTX 3 In Australia it is an ALL Mineral Engine Oil 15W40...

With all due respect to the guys at BHR they are a "vendor" here, and their products are pretty good, however, I will not be changing my coils over because there is nothing wrong with the modified (latest) coils used in the Series II.
The S2 also has a factory Modified Coil Base Plate.

Plus, I have a few sets of original OEM Coils that can be bought for $35 US each.

Too early to tell how the newer OEM coils will last, but I don't have a problem in renewing them.

Yes, I used OEM or NGK plugs..exact same as what came out.

 

Hey....

Yeah, they are pretty good actually, the pic makes them "look" worse, they are quite clean and the electrode is in good shape..

It has stopped that warm up or idle 'miss' or pop you get every so often, it is a 'normal' occurrence.

It's early morning here, car is still up on jack-stands, so I have yet to Test Drive.
Air Filter check (first time) and Brake/Clutch Fluid flush, a Tyre Rotation and I will be finished.

Any 'tips' on the OEM Air Filter...first timer here.

 

Ash: I'd love to give you tips on the OEM air filter but I installed the racing beat system 2 months after I got the car.

don't forget to keep an eye on that cabin air filter though, the aldehyde filter is quite good.

 

the alde. cabin filter works amazing!

 

Next day...what a saga..

I flushed the Brake fluid, did the Rears first and forgot about the separate Rear partitioned Master-cylinder tank section, I ran out of Fluid..DOH!!...had had to start again bleeding again, I think I may need to do my clutch again also...this runs off the rear supply...then I ran out of spare brake fluid.!!

Did a brake pad and rotor check and rotated the Tyres.

Took the car for a spin, definitely feels "sharper" with the new plugs....just that little more responsive...

Had to go to the Doctor this morning, so I lost half of the day...

Still got to do the air filter, check the battery...and I will be done...Oh and flush the Clutch Fluid Lines again.

This is taking TOO LONG, crawling around on a concrete floor...my old Bones!!

 

OH, Yeah, I have an aldehyde cabin filter as a spare...do you think I should replace it now...or too early...the OEM one is only just over a year old??

 

So how much brake fluid did you use total? I'm looking at changing my rotors pads and fluid soon.

 

Ours are in 500 mil plastic bottles...I used one and half for a COMPLETE Flush..that is 750 mil.

So if you guys have a Quart Bottle?? of BF it would be enough with a little left over.

 

ASH - are S2 plugs same P/N's as the S1 plugs?

Thx

TomF

 

Hi Ash,

I flushed the brake system and all other fluids as you have when I first purchased the 8 last spring. When doing the brakes I also changed to SS lines. It took about 3/4 of the Liter of ATE Super Blue to do it (no clutch). Boy what a difference in brake pedal feel and response. Using the ATE Super Blue makes it easy to know when the old is out of there.

 

Those plugs say your car is running fine.

I change mine about every 15k too.

 

Yes, same plugs as an S1....
NGK IR RE9B for Trailing SP
NGK IR RE7C For LEADING

OK, Finished the Job...

OE Air Filter was EASY to lift up and remove...don't know what the fuss is all about..

Anyway the Filter was slightly dirty (see pics, left old, right brand new).

I lightly banged the Filter flat on some black plastic, and there was around 1/4 of a teaspoon of grit or sand and a few bugs.

Not too bad really for 20,000 KMS (12K Miles), so I decided to leave for another 10K, the schedule here is 60,000 KMS I think...

 

Ash,

I read in a thread you revived last year that you purchashed and installed an oil filter magnet. How is that working out? Was this oil change one that you cut open the filter? If so what did you find. Curious.

 

Yeah, mine will do this occasionally. I'm wondering if simple cleaning of plugs would fix this? (only at 5,550 miles)

 

No,

If you read the thread you would have seen a pic I posted of a cut open S2 Oil Filter..
I don't open the oil filters as I know it is doing the job I expect of it...every car should have one of these, and the Filtermag IS the best design, covers a larger surface area and is the best quality and strongest magnet available.

The DOT one is OK, but you have a Magnet located at the oil filter end over the by pass valve spring/spring plate where the metal collects.

 

Did the level get below the level of the anti-lock brake unit? If so, does this need to be bench bled? I know it does on many cars, just not sure on this one. Better safe than sorry.

 

Hi Ash,
How much oil do i need for diff?? and also for SII's gearbox?

 

Can't exactly remember as I used up the last (almost) in two separate Redline Containers (see Air Filter Pics ^^^) which I then pour into a separate pump bottle and then pump into Trans/Diff till it overflows, which is the correct procedure...the Diff is same as S1 capacity wise around a litre, and the Trans is about 1.9 litres...

Sorry I don't measure it, I refill till it overflows...