High RPM (Bucking and Hesitation) (VIDEO)
10-05-2014, 09:07 PM
#26
Super Moderator
There is no plug or vac line attached to accordion, as OEM for S2.
10-05-2014, 09:11 PM
#27
Super Moderator
If the accordion is the same as the series 1 part, then yes, certainly. I think there was some uncertainty about that when I posted. It should be easy to stick a probe in there to see if it protrudes into the intake area.
Edit: Saw the post saying you're going to buy a plug
Edit: Saw the post saying you're going to buy a plug
10-05-2014, 09:20 PM
#28
Super Moderator
OP,
As suggested, IF your S2 has original fresh air intake just check and see if small the thin vac hose is connected to plastic nipple on the bottom left front corner of hard black plastic main intake.
Nipple is just after Throttle Body (rear of) and points down.
IF not in use or connected this small nipple needs blocking off.
As suggested, IF your S2 has original fresh air intake just check and see if small the thin vac hose is connected to plastic nipple on the bottom left front corner of hard black plastic main intake.
Nipple is just after Throttle Body (rear of) and points down.
IF not in use or connected this small nipple needs blocking off.
10-05-2014, 10:06 PM
#29
OP,
As suggested, IF your S2 has original fresh air intake just check and see if small the thin vac hose is connected to plastic nipple on the bottom left front corner of hard black plastic main intake.
Nipple is just after Throttle Body (rear of) and points down.
IF not in use or connected this small nipple needs blocking off.
As suggested, IF your S2 has original fresh air intake just check and see if small the thin vac hose is connected to plastic nipple on the bottom left front corner of hard black plastic main intake.
Nipple is just after Throttle Body (rear of) and points down.
IF not in use or connected this small nipple needs blocking off.
Awesome. Thanks for the help! Sorry I didn't take pics of anything today I am visiting the gf. I will try to see tomorrow about the nipple. And photos of plugs and coils and wires will be up on Tuesday.
-D
10-06-2014, 08:16 AM
#31
Erm, You can't really say its 'normal'. I posted a pic of my oem part from a 2010, and it has a plug.
Edit:
Its interesting, i've been searching google. It looks like some have them and some dont. Actually it almost looks like all RHD models dont have the plug. Need to dig a bit more
Edit Again:
Ok, not RHD specific, it looks like it was added after 2009 model. Interestingly enough no part # change. Either way, with or without the plug, its blocked.
Edit:
Its interesting, i've been searching google. It looks like some have them and some dont. Actually it almost looks like all RHD models dont have the plug. Need to dig a bit more
Edit Again:
Ok, not RHD specific, it looks like it was added after 2009 model. Interestingly enough no part # change. Either way, with or without the plug, its blocked.
10-06-2014, 08:38 AM
#36
Erm, You can't really say its 'normal'. I posted a pic of my oem part from a 2010, and it has a plug.
Edit:
Its interesting, i've been searching google. It looks like some have them and some dont. Actually it almost looks like all RHD models dont have the plug. Need to dig a bit more
Edit Again:
Ok, not RHD specific, it looks like it was added after 2009 model. Interestingly enough no part # change. Either way, with or without the plug, its blocked.
Edit:
Its interesting, i've been searching google. It looks like some have them and some dont. Actually it almost looks like all RHD models dont have the plug. Need to dig a bit more
Edit Again:
Ok, not RHD specific, it looks like it was added after 2009 model. Interestingly enough no part # change. Either way, with or without the plug, its blocked.
Last edited by RXeckless; 10-06-2014 at 08:44 AM. Reason: No.1 versus No. 2
10-06-2014, 08:59 AM
#38
Registered
anyways, my 09 does not have a plug either but it doesnt matter because the hole is not open.
anyways to OP, does the bucking happen at any throttle position? I am suspecting throttle body/pedal related. it looks like the engine is not at wide open until certain rpm. is the CEL flashing?
Last edited by jasonrxeight; 10-06-2014 at 09:03 AM.
10-06-2014, 10:16 AM
#39
funny how you guys think it would be a vacuum leak. I wont be a vacuum leak because its before the throttle body. there is no vacuum unless its after the throttle body.
anyways, my 09 does not have a plug either but it doesnt matter because the hole is not open.
anyways to OP, does the bucking happen at any throttle position? I am suspecting throttle body/pedal related. it looks like the engine is not at wide open until certain rpm. is the CEL flashing?
anyways, my 09 does not have a plug either but it doesnt matter because the hole is not open.
anyways to OP, does the bucking happen at any throttle position? I am suspecting throttle body/pedal related. it looks like the engine is not at wide open until certain rpm. is the CEL flashing?
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Ijan74 (10-15-2019)
10-06-2014, 03:03 PM
#41
So my compression test numbers are...
#1 at 333 rpm - 7.2, 6.5, 6.5
#2 at 334 rpm - 6.1, 6.1, 6.3
So from what I've read about compression tests, if we assume these numbers ARE NOT normalized to sea level at 250 rpm, then my numbers are abysmal (5.3-5.8 range). I used google maps to calculate the altitude above sealevel and then the rotary compression calculator was used.
If we assume that these results WERE normalized, then it would appear I have one rotor barely passing and one failing. Although strangely enough it's not the rotor that's misfiring.
The Mazda Mechanic said he thought the one was fine and the other was just starting to fail... take that as you will.
I'm also aware certain electrical issues can skew these results, but this would seem to be fairly accurate or not out of the realm of possibility for the year and mileage.
#1 at 333 rpm - 7.2, 6.5, 6.5
#2 at 334 rpm - 6.1, 6.1, 6.3
So from what I've read about compression tests, if we assume these numbers ARE NOT normalized to sea level at 250 rpm, then my numbers are abysmal (5.3-5.8 range). I used google maps to calculate the altitude above sealevel and then the rotary compression calculator was used.
If we assume that these results WERE normalized, then it would appear I have one rotor barely passing and one failing. Although strangely enough it's not the rotor that's misfiring.
The Mazda Mechanic said he thought the one was fine and the other was just starting to fail... take that as you will.
I'm also aware certain electrical issues can skew these results, but this would seem to be fairly accurate or not out of the realm of possibility for the year and mileage.
10-06-2014, 03:11 PM
#43
Ya. Just calculating for rpm change without taking into account altitude...
Front Rotor
First Chamber [6.9,8.5] : 5.73
Second Chamber [6.9,8.5] : 5.03
Third Chamber [6.9,8.5] : 5.03
Chambers Difference [<1.5] : 0.7
Back Rotor
First Chamber [6.9,8.5] : 4.61
Second Chamber [6.9,8.5] : 4.61
Third Chamber [6.9,8.5] : 4.81
Chambers Difference [<1.5] : 0.2
Rotors Difference [<1.0] : 0.92
Front Rotor
First Chamber [6.9,8.5] : 5.73
Second Chamber [6.9,8.5] : 5.03
Third Chamber [6.9,8.5] : 5.03
Chambers Difference [<1.5] : 0.7
Back Rotor
First Chamber [6.9,8.5] : 4.61
Second Chamber [6.9,8.5] : 4.61
Third Chamber [6.9,8.5] : 4.81
Chambers Difference [<1.5] : 0.2
Rotors Difference [<1.0] : 0.92
10-06-2014, 03:26 PM
#44
I called back and the guy who did it left... but the results don't make any sense... on the off chance he did it at 250 rpm and just hadn't normalized for sea level my results translate too...
A: 7.4722234925775, 6.74595261679348, 6.74595261679348
B: 6.3304384952171455, 6.3304384952171455, 6.538547090795141
A: 7.4722234925775, 6.74595261679348, 6.74595261679348
B: 6.3304384952171455, 6.3304384952171455, 6.538547090795141
10-06-2014, 03:35 PM
#45
Even those numbers don't make any sense. I called back and I will be talking to the guy tomorrow as apparently he just left :S.
I have none of the regular low compression issues EXCEPT for the occasional misfire.
My hot starts are better than my cold starts but I've never had problems with either... always immediately turns over.
Idle is perfect no hunting.
Feels like fairly adequate power.
Is it possible he did the test wrong? Or perhaps my starter or battery? (Although both were replaced recently). If the values were actually that low wouldn't I be experiencing FAR more symptoms?
I believe the bucking and occasional misfire is linked to a vacuum leak somewhere in the airbox area. I'm going to be solving this by buying an AEM/MazdaSpeed intake in the near future. This will allow me to remove the stock airbox and accordian tube where the issues are most likely arriving.
Either way help is appreciated.
I have none of the regular low compression issues EXCEPT for the occasional misfire.
My hot starts are better than my cold starts but I've never had problems with either... always immediately turns over.
Idle is perfect no hunting.
Feels like fairly adequate power.
Is it possible he did the test wrong? Or perhaps my starter or battery? (Although both were replaced recently). If the values were actually that low wouldn't I be experiencing FAR more symptoms?
I believe the bucking and occasional misfire is linked to a vacuum leak somewhere in the airbox area. I'm going to be solving this by buying an AEM/MazdaSpeed intake in the near future. This will allow me to remove the stock airbox and accordian tube where the issues are most likely arriving.
Either way help is appreciated.
10-06-2014, 03:37 PM
#46
funny how you guys think it would be a vacuum leak. I wont be a vacuum leak because its before the throttle body. there is no vacuum unless its after the throttle body.
anyways, my 09 does not have a plug either but it doesnt matter because the hole is not open.
anyways to OP, does the bucking happen at any throttle position? I am suspecting throttle body/pedal related. it looks like the engine is not at wide open until certain rpm. is the CEL flashing?
anyways, my 09 does not have a plug either but it doesnt matter because the hole is not open.
anyways to OP, does the bucking happen at any throttle position? I am suspecting throttle body/pedal related. it looks like the engine is not at wide open until certain rpm. is the CEL flashing?
The bucking generally happens foot to the floor. And there is definitely lack of power until certain rpm bands.. I was thinking of doing the throttle body delete. Anything else that may help?
The cell is a flashing cell. It occasionally does it at cold start (usually when fuel is low), and ONCE it did it when I was trying to redline it. It was far worse before I replaced the plugs, wires, coils etc.
10-06-2014, 03:44 PM
#47
Registered
The bucking generally happens foot to the floor. And there is definitely lack of power until certain rpm bands.. I was thinking of doing the throttle body delete. Anything else that may help?
The cell is a flashing cell. It occasionally does it at cold start (usually when fuel is low), and ONCE it did it when I was trying to redline it. It was far worse before I replaced the plugs, wires, coils etc.
The cell is a flashing cell. It occasionally does it at cold start (usually when fuel is low), and ONCE it did it when I was trying to redline it. It was far worse before I replaced the plugs, wires, coils etc.
10-06-2014, 03:59 PM
#50
The code and the bucking while maybe peripherally related don't seem to be dependant on each other.
I've gone long enough without a misfire that the engine light goes off. And in that time I will have redlined and bucked a couple of times. (Therefore the redlining'/bucking doesn't cause the engine light).
BUT the engine light/misfire may be caused by something that is also causing the misfire... at least that'd be my theory.
I'm going to test my alternator tonight and see if I can find a way to test my starter too.. maybe my battery. I was planning on upgrading to redtop anyway.
I've gone long enough without a misfire that the engine light goes off. And in that time I will have redlined and bucked a couple of times. (Therefore the redlining'/bucking doesn't cause the engine light).
BUT the engine light/misfire may be caused by something that is also causing the misfire... at least that'd be my theory.
I'm going to test my alternator tonight and see if I can find a way to test my starter too.. maybe my battery. I was planning on upgrading to redtop anyway.