Jdmx13b

I have some questions for our community regarding the clutch bracket/pedal assembly. First and foremost I've done the research already so don't flame me nor am i new to my r3.
So story time now. A few weeks ago after a very spirited drive on a back road i noticed that my clutch pedal started squeaking just before it went back to its starting position at the top of the throw. I didn't realize immediately what that ment, but i did a few days later after thinking about it. So flash foward to this morning, i was driving very casually to work and the pedal started to become hesitant on the way back up. I came to a stop light once it turned green i tried throwing it in gear and my gear lever felt blocked off so i put all my might into getting it in gear and it goes in and stalls and i look down and the pedal is right at the engagement point holding itself there.
So long story short i ened up getting it home thankfully. I pop the hood sure as **** the brake/clutch fluid is just about ready to over flow. So now i go ahead and inspect the pedal it self notice some leakage at that black nipple thing. So now i do some research im tracking that the series 1 8's have the 8 year/100k for the clutch pedal bracket assembly. I originally thought the series 2 did as well but mazda quickly shot that down as well. So now my first question is the series 1 clutch pedal bracket assembly compatible with a series 2? Second question is there a known way to notify mazda that the same shitty weld problem is still happening with the series 2. I've already purchased the series 1 assembly but i just wanna double tap that it will infact be compatible, I don't have the money right this second for the bhr reenforced pedal.

one last question unrealated to this but. My steering rack is knocking when traveling at low speed and using full lock when turning into a parking space, I understand it is not easy to drain the fluid and put fresh fluid in but would that even help or is to late?

some info about my r3
2010 r3
just hit 80k
aem cold air intake
rb race midpipe
stage 1 or 2 clutch not sure
everything else stock


thanks guys

Loki

iTrader: (1)

A leak has nothing to do with the clutch pedal welds. If you have a failed seal in the clutch master cylider, you need to confirm and replace that, not the pedal. Are the welds actually broken?

For the steering rack, there is no serviceable fluid, it's electric. If it's knocking, examine your tierods and ball joints. You definitely don't want to have one of those fail while you drive. Can you describe how you feel the knocking?

Jdmx13b

sorry I forgot to include that yes there is a separation at the weld, which was the sqeaking noise. Also from my understanding i know this may be wrong but I've seen threads on how to drain the fluid in the steering rack its just difficult and very inconvenient since theres no reservoir. I believe it was in the series 1 section but i guess the series 2 uses electric which is weird because it doesn't feel like it at all. And for the knocking its audible from inside idk about from outside the car, I don't let anyone drive it. Also you can feel a very faint vibration in cadence with the knocking in the steering wheel. Like i said this only happens at parking space speed at near and full lock in either direction. The sound can be best described as the sound that a flagpole makes on a windy day

Loki

iTrader: (1)

There is no steering rack fluid you can drain/replace on any RX8.

I would bring it to someone who can properly diagnose suspension noises in person. You don't want to risk it being what I said above and there is a high probability it is.