2010 R3 powerloss 4500-8000 IDEAS?
#1
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Thread Starter
2010 R3 powerloss 4500-8000 IDEAS?
Hi All,
my 65000km 2010 R3 has just suddenly developed a considerable power loss from 4500 up,
no codes
car has no Cat, near full tank of fuel
have BHR coils, and plugs done about 3000ks ago
Idea for cause are
SSV solenoid?
Fuel pump ?
coils?
is there a best way to differentially diagnose between these possibilities?
my 65000km 2010 R3 has just suddenly developed a considerable power loss from 4500 up,
no codes
car has no Cat, near full tank of fuel
have BHR coils, and plugs done about 3000ks ago
Idea for cause are
SSV solenoid?
Fuel pump ?
coils?
is there a best way to differentially diagnose between these possibilities?
#3
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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If it was in limp mode it wouldn't go over 4k or 5k rpm.
The SSV and VDI solenoids can be tested. Remove them, put a MityVac hand pump on the port that connects to the vacuum accumulator (opposite side of the solenoid from the connector). Pull 10 psi vacuum and see if it holds. If it does, apply 12v across the pins and see if the vacuum is vented to atmo.
The SSV and VDI solenoids can be tested. Remove them, put a MityVac hand pump on the port that connects to the vacuum accumulator (opposite side of the solenoid from the connector). Pull 10 psi vacuum and see if it holds. If it does, apply 12v across the pins and see if the vacuum is vented to atmo.
#7
40th anniversary Edition
Engine Power Loss
- chokes as revs increase
- O2 sensor failure (too rich)
- MAF failure
- MAF disconnected
- e-shaft sensor fouled
- accessory belt fraying
- high end power loss (hard fuel cut)
- Rev limit reached
- high end power loss (jerky and stumbling)
- Ignition failure
- fuel pressure loss
- e-shaft sensor fouled
- high end power loss (smooth)
- Catalytic converter clog
- air filter clog
- low end power loss (smooth)
- Engine compression loss
- low end power loss (stumbles)
- Ignition failure
- front O2 sensor failure
- revs slowly but smoothly
- O2 sensor failure (too lean)
- catalytic converter clog
- air filter clog
- sudden power drop at a specific rpm
- Intake valving actuation problem
- trouble getting to redline
- Ignition failure
- front O2 sensor failure
- catalytic converter clog
- air filter clog
- e-shaft sensor fouled
- fuel pressure loss
- MAF failure
#10
Registered
Thought a little more about this.
I wonder if maybe a plug wire slipped loose or one plug was not seated correctly and that could be causing your code? I would check your ignition system first since that was the last thing you changed in the car.
I wonder if maybe a plug wire slipped loose or one plug was not seated correctly and that could be causing your code? I would check your ignition system first since that was the last thing you changed in the car.
#12
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
for that ignition system the first thing you should do is check all the coils and wires per the S1 DIY thread. I recommend checking at the wire spark plug connection first; good spark test then both wire and coil good; weak or no spark then one or other is bad. Also make sure the main ground wire is secure and proper. Also check to make sure the coil harness wiring is not rubbing against the front engine lift hook; common problem.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-wires-222641/
More likely to be a leading rather than trailing issue for that significant of a loss. Also reset ESS profile, clean and test ESS sensor if problem persists.
also, get a vacuum gun and pull a vacuum on the solenoid tank and see of it holds. No need to pull solenoids if it does, only if it leaks down. Most likely an SSV issue if starting from 4500 rpm (should open after 4100 rpm under WOT, otherwise no secondary ports). Make sure the actuator arm opens and closes smoothly.
Any unusual exhaust smoke/smell on start-up? Running rough until warm could indicate a leaking coolant seal. Might cause a misfire code too.
.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-wires-222641/
More likely to be a leading rather than trailing issue for that significant of a loss. Also reset ESS profile, clean and test ESS sensor if problem persists.
also, get a vacuum gun and pull a vacuum on the solenoid tank and see of it holds. No need to pull solenoids if it does, only if it leaks down. Most likely an SSV issue if starting from 4500 rpm (should open after 4100 rpm under WOT, otherwise no secondary ports). Make sure the actuator arm opens and closes smoothly.
Any unusual exhaust smoke/smell on start-up? Running rough until warm could indicate a leaking coolant seal. Might cause a misfire code too.
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 07-27-2019 at 09:00 AM.
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sinkas (07-28-2019)
#14
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Thread Starter
No other signs of ,
just occasionally terrible rough starting after damp cold night,
and is fine after about 1 minute, still gutless through mid rage,
so,
maybe combination of issues
got some new coil on the way,
and don't know how long till I have time to do much more on it
cant rule out coolant use yet,
but am monitoring it,
don't know why mazda made the coolant tank so hard to read,....
just occasionally terrible rough starting after damp cold night,
and is fine after about 1 minute, still gutless through mid rage,
so,
maybe combination of issues
got some new coil on the way,
and don't know how long till I have time to do much more on it
cant rule out coolant use yet,
but am monitoring it,
don't know why mazda made the coolant tank so hard to read,....
#15
Registered
Thread Starter
In the end this was a combination of issues
1) stuck (shut) SSV that didn't throw a code,
2) weak Leading coil on rear rotor
3) plug wires were routed so that the longer leading ones were on the trailing,
so they were very tight,
I replaced coils,
had ssv " unstuck" and also replaced solenoids at same time,
so far so good.
1) stuck (shut) SSV that didn't throw a code,
2) weak Leading coil on rear rotor
3) plug wires were routed so that the longer leading ones were on the trailing,
so they were very tight,
I replaced coils,
had ssv " unstuck" and also replaced solenoids at same time,
so far so good.
#17
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Thread Starter
I wonder if a failing coil for 5000K's might have been a contributor,
and I had been a bit lax on really thrashing it out daily
it now feels like it had more power than it ever had,
so maybe it was partially stuck the whole time
Im just surprised it didnt throw a SSV code
#20
Registered
Thread Starter
Well bugger me,
the misfire is back
a few days without it,and this morning,
rough start and same P302COde same code, rear rotor,
anyone think it might be the coil adapter harness as well?
SSV def working still,
so,
?
harness?
PLugs?
Pug wires?
Leaky injector?
the misfire is back
a few days without it,and this morning,
rough start and same P302COde same code, rear rotor,
anyone think it might be the coil adapter harness as well?
SSV def working still,
so,
?
harness?
PLugs?
Pug wires?
Leaky injector?
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