2009 Mazda RX8 R3 Check Engine Light
#1
2009 Mazda RX8 R3 Check Engine Light
Hi there!
So I previously had a flooding issue with my car, and thanks to all the help and methods shown by the internet and the forums, I was able to de-flood the car actually by doing the “crank” method and the car ran well for about a week. I made sure to drive long enough to warm up the car properly & redline it after fully warmed to not build up any carbon and prevent flooding again.
But today when I was driving, I got caught in the traffic and my car just stalled even though I was in neutral. So I started it up, but it had a rly difficult time starting and the check engine light came on and the car definitely had a problem. It made weird bopping noise when reving and I couldn’t go any faster than 60km/h even when I had my pedal to the floor in second. It just felt like there was nothing going in the engine and I barely made it home, but the check engine light is still on... Is it a compression issue with the engine? I asked the previous owner and he told me that it could be a slipping clutch.
I'm kind of frustrated since I just got it to de-flood and run fine and now I'm facing a problem that I don't even know how to tackle
Anything would help so thank you so much for your time!
So I previously had a flooding issue with my car, and thanks to all the help and methods shown by the internet and the forums, I was able to de-flood the car actually by doing the “crank” method and the car ran well for about a week. I made sure to drive long enough to warm up the car properly & redline it after fully warmed to not build up any carbon and prevent flooding again.
But today when I was driving, I got caught in the traffic and my car just stalled even though I was in neutral. So I started it up, but it had a rly difficult time starting and the check engine light came on and the car definitely had a problem. It made weird bopping noise when reving and I couldn’t go any faster than 60km/h even when I had my pedal to the floor in second. It just felt like there was nothing going in the engine and I barely made it home, but the check engine light is still on... Is it a compression issue with the engine? I asked the previous owner and he told me that it could be a slipping clutch.
I'm kind of frustrated since I just got it to de-flood and run fine and now I'm facing a problem that I don't even know how to tackle
Anything would help so thank you so much for your time!
#2
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iTrader: (1)
When the check engine light is on, you need to get the codes read. They will tell you why it's on.
It restarted so it's probably not compression. Could be many things, need the codes to continue.
When it couldn't go faster than 60, was the engine still getting to redline but not moving the car or was the engine itself not increasing in speed? If the first, yes, slipping clutch. However a slipping clutch won't stall the engine or cause the check engine light.
It restarted so it's probably not compression. Could be many things, need the codes to continue.
When it couldn't go faster than 60, was the engine still getting to redline but not moving the car or was the engine itself not increasing in speed? If the first, yes, slipping clutch. However a slipping clutch won't stall the engine or cause the check engine light.
#3
I actually had the code scanned and the reader gave me 2 codes, P0302 (which was shown twice): Cylinder 2 Misfire detected and P0171: System too lean to Bank 1. I googled a bit and one of them was plugs/wire/coil issue and the other being vacuum hose related issue? What should I proceed to do with these codes?
#7
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Possible you have an intake leak? Especially from taking the intake apart for the coils. There should not be any open hoses and every connection should be air tight.
You can check with your scanner what the long term fuel trim is when the car is idling and warmed up. If it's high, and airflow grams/sec is low, unmetered air is getting in somewhere. I'd work on that first.
You can check with your scanner what the long term fuel trim is when the car is idling and warmed up. If it's high, and airflow grams/sec is low, unmetered air is getting in somewhere. I'd work on that first.
Last edited by Loki; 04-27-2021 at 12:45 PM.
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