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Just thought I'd post here about the new head unit I installed. It has some cool features:
- Full Nav, bluetooth phone and music, iPhone/Android integration, streaming services like pandora and iHeartRadio integration, etc..
- Capable of displaying gauges using ODB2 data (with iDataLink Maestro module)
Total list of what I bought to do the work:
- Kenwood DNN991HD
- Metra Dash replacement
- PAC RP4-MZ11 steering wheel/screen control module
- ADS iDataLink Maestro module (for ODB2 integration).
- Stock radio was a Bose module, so I bought some RCA wires and wired them to the factory "speaker" wires and hooked those to the preamp outs on the new head unit.
I could have just bought the Maestro module, but then I wouldn't be able to set the time on or anything else on the factory LCD, so I installed the PAC unit for that, and just didn't wire in the steering wheel controls on the Maestro.
The wiring wasn't too difficult... I wired the Kenwood harness to the PAC harness per the instructions from both. The head unit wouldn't let me do any text entry without being hooked to the parking brake, but I thought that was stupid, so I just grounded that input. I then connected the maestro to battery +, ground, accessory power, CANH and CANL (wired to ODB2 plug under the driver's side dash's HS-CAN wires). I ended up putting the new mic in the old mic's place next to the center speaker. It seems to work fine there. I also put the GPS antenna there, and that also seems to work fine, and has the added advantage that it looks clean (no wires or anything externally visible).
The head unit had several cables for USB flash device, USB for iPhone/Android, wifi antenna, etc... I just ran all of those to the glove box. Eventually I want to run a wire to the center console for one of the USBs, but they're fine where they're at for now.
That is nice! One of these days, I will get around to performing a complete Bose-ectomy on mine too!
This setup sounds a good bit better even with just the head unit changed. It can be tuned for speaker size and has a 14-band eq.
I just wish that either of the adapter modules provided vss to the head unit so it would crank up the volume on the highway. VSS does not exist on the MS-CAN only high speed, but I don't think the head unit wants to get it there even though it is providing it and it can be displayed on the screen.
I also have a 300-watt amp and 10" sub waiting to go in, I didn't want anything huge, but the way it is now I can't hear any bass at all once I get moving.
Good job on the install and thanks for the Thread.
I just completed a similar install on my 2009 GT, and this was helpful.
Here's a picture of my setup. I went with the Pioneer Avic 8100NEX (for Android Auto mostly)
Since most of install quirks have already been detailed in this thread and others about S2 stereo installs, I will just give some details about the usb/aux ports I used.
I spent a fair amount of time looking into this before doing my install. Basically I wanted to keep things as stock/mazda looking as possible (instead of leaving cables in the glovebox or having a cable sticking out of the console). I did some research and noticed that the USB/AUX combined port on the 2014 6, CX-5 and Mazda 2 has the same shape and size as the standard AUX port, so I just gambled and ordered the part (KD45-66-9U)... and it all worked out. I did have to force it in a little but once the wider rear of the connector is in, the fit is just a good as the stock aux.
Now, regarding the face panel / install kit, I went with the Metra kit but also bought the Corksport OEM Mazda panel, but installed the Metra one for now. I've still yet to find a backet that works with it. Currently looking into a Kanatechs bracket that might work and prove a little more sturdy than the Metra stuff.
Everything can pretty much just be popped off with a trim tool, I just had to remove the bottom of the back passenger side seat and take the 2 bolts off holding the top part.
I've been thinking of doing an upgrade like this to my 2010 GT but I have a question - my current bose unit has a button to toggle between the outside temperature and the temperature set on the climate controls. What happens to this feature when the audio head unit is replaced?
I just recently installed a Pioneer SPH-DA120 myself. These can be had for around $400 and work very well for Car Play users. It does not support Android Auto but it will still play your music through USB. If I had to do it over again I would buy the JBL CP100, which is again $400 but supports both Android and iOS.
Wiring harness all done
Interior ripped apart
Bench testing
All done!
I ran my cable to the glove box because I like to get things done first and then iterate on them. Perfection is never achieved on the first try and I'd rather accomplish it in steps.
My only wisdom to share after the fact is that the bolt to pull the stock head unit out is a real pain in the ***. I had to take apart half the steering column to get it. Needless to say I wasn't impressed with the procedure.
The temperature and time display are still working perfectly but I suspect that to go away if the car ever loses power. Again, something I will iterate on and fix at a later date.
Good job on the install and thanks for the Thread.
I just completed a similar install on my 2009 GT, and this was helpful.
Here's a picture of my setup. I went with the Pioneer Avic 8100NEX (for Android Auto mostly)
Since most of install quirks have already been detailed in this thread and others about S2 stereo installs, I will just give some details about the usb/aux ports I used.
I spent a fair amount of time looking into this before doing my install. Basically I wanted to keep things as stock/mazda looking as possible (instead of leaving cables in the glovebox or having a cable sticking out of the console). I did some research and noticed that the USB/AUX combined port on the 2014 6, CX-5 and Mazda 2 has the same shape and size as the standard AUX port, so I just gambled and ordered the part (KD45-66-9U)... and it all worked out. I did have to force it in a little but once the wider rear of the connector is in, the fit is just a good as the stock aux.
Now, regarding the face panel / install kit, I went with the Metra kit but also bought the Corksport OEM Mazda panel, but installed the Metra one for now. I've still yet to find a backet that works with it. Currently looking into a Kanatechs bracket that might work and prove a little more sturdy than the Metra stuff.
Hope this helps some of you out there.
I have a question for you. I have the pioneer NEX 4100. When i connect my galaxy 6 it tells me i cannot use android auto unless parked or the parking brake is engaged. (Of course i have the app and everything) Do you know how to fix it?
Thanks
I have a question for you. I have the pioneer NEX 4100. When i connect my galaxy 6 it tells me i cannot use android auto unless parked or the parking brake is engaged. (Of course i have the app and everything) Do you know how to fix it?
Thanks
I think there's a blue and white cable that says parking brake. Try touching the cable to the chassis of the head unit and see if that message goes away. If it does, just unscrew one of the chassis screws a little bit, tuck the cable in the gap and screw it back down to permanently ground to the head unit. Otherwise you'll have to buy a relay to bypass it.
I think there's a blue and white cable that says parking brake. Try touching the cable to the chassis of the head unit and see if that message goes away. If it does, just unscrew one of the chassis screws a little bit, tuck the cable in the gap and screw it back down to permanently ground to the head unit. Otherwise you'll have to buy a relay to bypass it.
Just thought I'd post here about the new head unit I installed. It has some cool features:
- Full Nav, bluetooth phone and music, iPhone/Android integration, streaming services like pandora and iHeartRadio integration, etc..
- Capable of displaying gauges using ODB2 data (with iDataLink Maestro module)
Total list of what I bought to do the work:
- Kenwood DNN991HD
- Metra Dash replacement
- PAC RP4-MZ11 steering wheel/screen control module
- ADS iDataLink Maestro module (for ODB2 integration).
- Stock radio was a Bose module, so I bought some RCA wires and wired them to the factory "speaker" wires and hooked those to the preamp outs on the new head unit.
I could have just bought the Maestro module, but then I wouldn't be able to set the time on or anything else on the factory LCD, so I installed the PAC unit for that, and just didn't wire in the steering wheel controls on the Maestro.
The wiring wasn't too difficult... I wired the Kenwood harness to the PAC harness per the instructions from both. The head unit wouldn't let me do any text entry without being hooked to the parking brake, but I thought that was stupid, so I just grounded that input. I then connected the maestro to battery +, ground, accessory power, CANH and CANL (wired to ODB2 plug under the driver's side dash's HS-CAN wires). I ended up putting the new mic in the old mic's place next to the center speaker. It seems to work fine there. I also put the GPS antenna there, and that also seems to work fine, and has the added advantage that it looks clean (no wires or anything externally visible).
The head unit had several cables for USB flash device, USB for iPhone/Android, wifi antenna, etc... I just ran all of those to the glove box. Eventually I want to run a wire to the center console for one of the USBs, but they're fine where they're at for now.
Some pics:
This is the only post I’ve found anywhere on this? Was the pac neccesary at all? So since it’s Bose does that mean there is no harness for it at all?
Just thought I'd post here about the new head unit I installed. It has some cool features:
- Full Nav, bluetooth phone and music, iPhone/Android integration, streaming services like pandora and iHeartRadio integration, etc..
- Capable of displaying gauges using ODB2 data (with iDataLink Maestro module)
Total list of what I bought to do the work:
- Kenwood DNN991HD
- Metra Dash replacement
- PAC RP4-MZ11 steering wheel/screen control module
- ADS iDataLink Maestro module (for ODB2 integration).
- Stock radio was a Bose module, so I bought some RCA wires and wired them to the factory "speaker" wires and hooked those to the preamp outs on the new head unit.
I could have just bought the Maestro module, but then I wouldn't be able to set the time on or anything else on the factory LCD, so I installed the PAC unit for that, and just didn't wire in the steering wheel controls on the Maestro.
The wiring wasn't too difficult... I wired the Kenwood harness to the PAC harness per the instructions from both. The head unit wouldn't let me do any text entry without being hooked to the parking brake, but I thought that was stupid, so I just grounded that input. I then connected the maestro to battery +, ground, accessory power, CANH and CANL (wired to ODB2 plug under the driver's side dash's HS-CAN wires). I ended up putting the new mic in the old mic's place next to the center speaker. It seems to work fine there. I also put the GPS antenna there, and that also seems to work fine, and has the added advantage that it looks clean (no wires or anything externally visible).
The head unit had several cables for USB flash device, USB for iPhone/Android, wifi antenna, etc... I just ran all of those to the glove box. Eventually I want to run a wire to the center console for one of the USBs, but they're fine where they're at for now.
Some pics:
Ive done everything the same way you did except i didnt use the pac and i want that led screen to have the info back, i used maestro for steering and gauges, think it would be simple to tie that pac thing in just for the led stuff
Good job on the install and thanks for the Thread.
I just completed a similar install on my 2009 GT, and this was helpful.
Here's a picture of my setup. I went with the Pioneer Avic 8100NEX (for Android Auto mostly)
Since most of install quirks have already been detailed in this thread and others about S2 stereo installs, I will just give some details about the usb/aux ports I used.
I spent a fair amount of time looking into this before doing my install. Basically I wanted to keep things as stock/mazda looking as possible (instead of leaving cables in the glovebox or having a cable sticking out of the console). I did some research and noticed that the USB/AUX combined port on the 2014 6, CX-5 and Mazda 2 has the same shape and size as the standard AUX port, so I just gambled and ordered the part (KD45-66-9U)... and it all worked out. I did have to force it in a little but once the wider rear of the connector is in, the fit is just a good as the stock aux.
Now, regarding the face panel / install kit, I went with the Metra kit but also bought the Corksport OEM Mazda panel, but installed the Metra one for now. I've still yet to find a backet that works with it. Currently looking into a Kanatechs bracket that might work and prove a little more sturdy than the Metra stuff.
Hope this helps some of you out there.
@Jeanator , I know this is internet ancient, but I'm attempting to follow in your footsteps. I found the above mentioned part out of a CX3 or CX5 in a yard, and took it home to do this. I was not able to get a USB cable to make a connection at all. Seems the pins on the part are a little closer spaced, and have guards on them that prevent the USB cable from making contact. Can you shed any light on this?
I recently changed the USB cable and ran into a similar issue. I was able to get it to work by trimming the front of the connector by 1/8 of an inch so the metal connectors can go deeper and make a better connection.
You can also take a needle to the back of the AUX/USB combo and try to make the little pins for the USB stick out a little more.
I needed to see this. I recently snagged an '09 S2 and wanted to make sure it can be done for those as well. Did you maintain the steering wheel controls?
02-09-2015, 02:53 PM
