DIY Brake Ducts for a Series II - Page 3 - RX8Club.com



Series II DIY DIY projects specific for Series II RX-8s

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Old 12-13-2017, 01:01 PM   #51  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Dallas View Post
You need only the positive pressure in the bumper mouth to "force" air into the ducts toward the negative pressure area in the wheel well. The heat exchangers (AC condenser and radiator) are capable of only so much flow rate. What cannot flow through the exchangers buffets back out the front. What I am doing is stealing some of that excess for the brakes. The pressure differential directs flow to the brakes. A ram air situation is not needed.

That is roughly how Ian did it. He hammered the scoop flat and riveted a 2" flange to it. In my guesstimation, I did not think there was enough rigid material to hold a 2.5" duct, and I thought (and still think) 2.5" is the minimum that should be used for an RX-8. I honestly wish there was room for 3" hose with 255 tires.

Having said that, you have to remove the hub to remove the dust shield. It is sandwiched between the hub and spindle. I suppose you could manage to flatten the scoops and attach a flange without removing the hub, but I thought the $120 was worth it to have purpose-made parts, and I kinda thought my hubs were toast anyway, after a whole lotta track hours.

.
2.5" inch hose with ram air effect will flow plenty I think, will be grabbing the air from the sides of the radiator/nose mouth area via hose to aluminum flange riveted to the oem brake shields -similar to the video below.

this way I don't have to mess with the hubs.


something like OD4 did

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...1/#post4828422


Last edited by Nadrealista; 12-13-2017 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 12-13-2017, 01:40 PM   #52  
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That video is seriously ghetto. No way I would post something like that under my own name. I guess #becauseracecar goes a long way with some people. BMWs already have above average brake cooling. I would be willing to bet he actually lost cooling performance by replacing the factory setup with only 2" hose in a car of that weight.

Having said that, the treatment he gave the dust shields is similar to what Ian did. Ian just just did a much cleaner job of it and left most of the shields intact. Those shields are there to protect various things from rotor heat, and there is certainly no benefit to cutting most of them away, when you are piping air between the shield and rotor.

I pondered using a flange in the same location like the above photo, and even traced the outlines of some aluminum flanges I had left over from my Miata, but then I realized the area just to the right of that is open in an S2, which means just as much positive pressure is behind it as is in the flange location. There is no need to hack it up. You get the same amount of air flow by doing what I did and just poking the hose through the fender liner.

.

Last edited by Steve Dallas; 12-13-2017 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 12-19-2017, 09:51 AM   #53  
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I can start with your air intake location, if it's not enough I can move it easily :-)
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Old 05-03-2018, 08:45 AM   #54  
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ran across this video and wanted to share. very interesting to see how dynamic rotor temperatures changes really are on the track. car is Stock AP1 Honda S2000 with JRZ dampers, 245 NT-01 tires, and Cobalt XR1/XR2 pads

he easily gets into 850-900 C at the end of the hard braking zones!


and tire temperatures along with shock loading


Last edited by Nadrealista; 05-03-2018 at 08:55 AM.
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Old 05-03-2018, 06:54 PM   #55  
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Interesting.

The driver in the video needs to stop locking his thumbs on the steering wheel, and stop gripping it with a death grip.

Last edited by Steve Dallas; 05-08-2018 at 07:50 AM.
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